How to replace the idler arm bushing on most Mercedes models up until the mid 2000s slight differences, but most are essentially the same follow me on twitter / fupabox
Hi fupabox. Just did mine last week. Could have used few points from your video...especially with the caliper, Thanks for the video, keep them coming.. They are the best ..for MB lovers..
The bolt on my idler arm was on top of the steering rod (the first bolt you removed). Anyone else have the same issue? Makes me think it was replaced and was reversed.
If I move my steering wheel side to side with the engine off, I have about two inches of play before the front wheels move is this normal? 79k miles on a C230. Your videos are such a big help!
Kodak playsport ZX3 I need something that can handle the nasty conditions that I work in , covered in oil, snow, dust ,dirt , freezing temps ,water ..and getting dropped.. Nothing else has stood up to the abuse..not the greatest in low light ,but with good light it is much better than my Gopro in all regards...tried others , this one just works :)
fupabox I've got an older GoPro and it's not doing everything I need it to. This is excellent for the lighting, as you say! I do need something for lower light because I'd like to record some live stuff from my band. This gives me an idea of where to look, though! Thanks!
I just did mine a couple months ago pretty much the same way except I didn't remove the arm, just swapped the bushings in the car. It didn't make the steering perfect but it's so much better feeling and it's such a cheap part.
Thanks a lot for sharing this. Just bought a 2008 clk 320 with the same problem. It is not so easy to find unless you really start to shake the steering rod, but I experienced the same vibrations that you described so it had be somewere in the steering rod area. I noticed a little movement in the idler arm bushing so I'm pretty sure that's it. Just ordered one for around 10 euros (I'm in Holland) and with the aid of your clear explanantion I think replacing it is a piece of cake :-)
If your car is a 2008 , it won;t have an idler arm . they went to rack and pinion after 2001. check you front control arms . They are aluminum and run from under the radiator to the steering knuckle . The front bushing is fluid filled and can leak. If the bushing is all mucky and covered in grease it has likely ruptured. Your 2008 clk ib based on the w203 c class , and shares the same suspension and steering
You're absolutely right,: this one is a 1998 (not 2008, my mistake sorry) convertible with what looks like the idler arm in your video (didn't take it apart yet as I'm waiting for the replacement bushing). I also have a younger coupé and I mixed the two up. Any other known problems that these cars may develop over the years? Mine is a 320 V6 with about 260k ( 160 k miles) on it, engine and transmission seem to be in good shape, hard bodywork. Brake lines look good too, no real signs of worn out parts in the suspension. Drives nicely besides the sound/vibration due to the idler arm bushing.
Ok NP .. just figured I would hopefully get you a response before you bought a part you may not need . The 1998 shares everything other than interior with the w202 . Those are very well engineered cars . The 320 M112 engine has few issues.. leaking valve cover breathers, tough to change spark plugs and crankshaft damper pulley that can blow up if it is from the defective batch. Otherwise routine maintenance will keep it running forever. Mine had 320k when I sold it , and still worked perfectly , other than an ABS issue that wouldn't sort itself out .
fups, an opportunity to buy a 95 c280 for pretty cheap has come up. My 96 c220 is great but I'd love to not have to deal with emissions inspection anymore and was wondering on what your thoughts are on the straight 6 vs my m111.961?
the m104 inline 6 only has issues with headgaskets.. otherwise a very durable engine...The m111 is pretty much bulletproof if maintained properly... both before 1997 so will have 4 spd autos and possible wire harness failures.. It's a tough call since the I6 has such nice smooth power..fuel mileage virtually identical,, Mercedes rarely fail emissions.. hmm. I would say if the head gasket on the 280 has already been done go for it
well you know, just stupid OBD crap like air injection or upshift delay that serve very little purpose but love to break and be expensive or a pita. We don't have actual emissions tests, just OBD scan. That's what I was worried about, I've seen numerous people with head gasket issues on Mercedes forums. I beat the crap out of my m111 and it loves it, but if I had the 104 I wouldn't have to be so hard on it haha. I wouldn't mind doing the head gasket but it'd be nice not to. I forgot about the wiring harness... At least if I got another 220, I could use mine. My car has just weird random issues and they're so cheap on Craigslist I might as well buy a clean title one and part mine out...
The Stiver we have the ridiculous OBD emissions test here now as well.. You need to drive (300miles I think) after an OBD code reset for the car to pass the test.. So if you had work done to repair an emissions issue, you can't get tested until you drive the car for a full tank of fuel.. we can't get a license plate sticker without the emissions test, so are you supposed to drive illegally until the OBD allows the test to be done ? The tailpipe test was the only reliable way to determine if the car was polluting..government passes stupid legislation without consulting professionals, and wastes time and money. I'm not sure how it works where you live, but people in my province who live 100km North of me and further.. DON"T have to have emissions tests done !!! So here, it is essentially a geographical tax ...lol
***** Yes exactly... at least NC allows MY 96-01 vehicles 2 'not set" readiness monitors, 1 allowed for 02-present, which is nice because newer cars take FOREVER to set the EVAP monitor and my w202 can take quite a long time to set the catalytic converter monitor (even after replacing the downstream O2, sometimes it's over 1000 miles). You'll love this then... only 48 of the 100 counties in NC require OBD testing... so people as close as maybe 40 miles from here don't have it, I guess when I move back to the mountains I can change my address and register the car there, but my brother slid my C220 into a curb & utility pole about a year ago and despite replacing the door and all the suspension links on the busted wheel, it's never been the same since, and it has plenty of cosmetic issues, so I'm considering using it as the parts car and picking up a clean w202, even if it's not mechanically sound.
The Stiver 48 counties, yup, same BS as here..Yeah we have to have the emissions readiness set or it is an automatic fail.. once the suspension hits something sideways it's pretty tough to get it back to normal, if not impossible
