Mercedes M272 Oil Drip Pan- Save your Intake Manifold! 

There's a host of other videos on this channel covering exactly these things :) Already routed a primary catch can off of the high-load, running a second off of the low load breather soon. This car, it's less of a concern given the composite manifold.

lol you still got it??

I will revisit it today just to be sure I'm giving the right answer. The drip tray, the plastic cover, I believe is standard thread. The drip pan, the little diffuser on the end of the cam, I recall being reverse thread as you mentioned. Edit: yes, the drip pan is reverse thread; clockwise to remove it, counter-clockwise to reinstall

@@danny_playswithcarsclockwise to remove it as in the direction we're facing when working on the engine correct? i only ask because when i remove the plastic cover, i am turning clockwise to loosen when facing the engine.

@@MTSLFilms Both of these are in reference to if you are staring directly at the bolthead.

I believe it was 8mm yes. Cannot remember off the top of my head. You could always use a 3/8 drive with an adapter to 1/4 (that's what I did). Just keep in mind, that single bolt inside the drip pan is reverse-thread

Depends on mileage, but probably not a necessity unless you have reason to believe the injectors needs replacing. I'd just recommend injector seals in case they're damaged when you're swapping the fuel rail onto your new manifold (some manifold kits will include the injector seals, such as the Pierburg OE kit from FCP Euro)

@@danny_playswithcars ahh totally forgot to mention my car is at 81500. i already did a full spark plugs + coils at 60,000 when i got the car but never got around to tackle the p2004 issue. i really dont like the way the car drives at low rpms and sometimes high thats why im doing it. for sure i will buy the O rings as well gaskets for the manifold + throttle body gasket. would you say fuel injectors is okay to go without replacing ? i don't have any issue with my fuel system nor leaks

Hi Bako! I understand your concerns for your alignment, but you won't have to adjust it too much even after you replace everything. The control arms on MB cars generally have very little camber/caster adjustment, so putting new arms in should only throw things off by a few degrees. Any semi-competent shop should be able to get it pretty close. If your bushings are that worn, it's actually probably affecting tire wear right now; large amounts of excessive flex or movement mean your alignment wouldn't be staying consistent while you drive, so you may actually see an increase in tire life by doing this service.

Also know that almost all cars when they cross the 10 year mark. Alot of ''rubbers'''are gonna degrade very quickly after that. So not only bushings, but also hoses and seals. It is one of the downsides of an aged car.

Is the whistle solely on startup, or all the time? Just looking to eliminate the possibility it's the secondary air pump. There's a lot of push-style vacuum hoses in front of the intake manifold, behind the secondary air pump. I'd give those a visual inspection and see if those are your problem. Pending where a split/damage may be, you may need a manifold. With a split hose and some ingenuity you may be able to splice in a new vacuum hose, whereas if a bladder is damaged or a fitting came out of the manifold, you'd want a new manifold. The intake manifold in this video is the composite one from the R171 SLK350 option package "M014." It's an...interesting mod for these cars. If you're curious, there's a lot of videos on this channel about it!

@@danny_playswithcars I thought it was the secondary air pump at first too but it was not. It happens all the time. And the thing makes more of a buzzsaw noise when it’s bad. I did inspect some hoses without taking the pump off and could see what looked like some burn marks on one of the hoses (from rubbing that metallic bell looking thing to the right of the air pump) but it didn’t look totally cracked through not sure if that is bad enough to create an audible leak. There was also another hose that appeared more cracked at the end. Ive heard of people using a razor blade to cut the end off and fit it on more securely. But I bought about 3 ft of hose from the dealer and am going to try to pull the air pump off and examine better. I’m not completely familiar with evap stuff so this is kind of new territory for me not sure if I should just replace all the hoses I can. I was gonna try to smoke test it also with a little Jerry rig smoker I made. Do you think the best place to run smoke would be from the brake booster line?

Hi Nick. These can operate on an "as-needed" basis, but won't need replacement very often. Often these are done between 80k-100k; simply pulling the lines of the driver-side PCV breather or checking the one big hose off of this drip pan for oil accumulation should tell you everything you need to know. If there is liquid oil, there's a problem; these systems vent vapor when working correctly.

Привет, друг, извини, я не говорю по-русски. коллектор пластиковый. он взят из кода опции M014 для SLK350 2009-2011 гг. Я купил его на FCPEuro.com, но сейчас его нет на складе.

The drip pan and tray? I would guesstimate 125-130k. I bought this car right around then so I can't speak on the maintenance history and care beforehand. A good way to assess if these parts are bad is to look for oil consumption. Check the drip tray and see if oily residue is visible on the cylinder head around it. Pull the breather hose and take a look, it will likely be a little oily but may contain excessive amounts with a drip tray failure. You can also pull the air filter housing and MAF to take a look at the air deflector (the neck down to the throttle body) and see if it's gross and oily in there. These engines aren't big oil leakers. If you're losing oil, I would say to expect the breather system before anything else.

You should check the rubber tube on the pcv vent cover to see if there is any oil residue. If there is, then you problem have started. If it's clean, then you are still good.

Replace it every thirty thousands miles.

This M272 was in an 07 C230 Sport, post-Balance Shaft update.

Actually did exactly that in another video on the channel. It works at catching oil spilloff, but the rear centrifuge you see here is actually pretty good at it's job when it's in working order. The one you'd want to run the catch can off of is the one on the driver's side