Mercedes SL R230 Trunk Boot Soft Close: Removal - Repair - Replace - Reset! + Secret Panel Trick

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Everything you need to know about your Mercedes SL R230 trunk / boot soft close actuator, importantly how to remove easily, repair, refit back on car and the infamous RESET TRICK showing what fuse to use and where to find it !
This is typically required if you have trouble getting your trunk to soft close due to air leaking from the pneumatic actuator which can develop cracks and leaks.
I have made a separate videos here on how to determine and fix a leaking actuator:
• Mercedes SL Soft Close...
• Mercedes soft close bo...
• Mercedes Soft Close Tr...
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Also covered is a handy tip trick on how to open the rear stowage compartments if the lock is jammed due to needing to reset the fuse.
Disclaimer:
This video is for information and guide purposes only and cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorised modifications of this information. I assume no liability for damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommends safe practices when working on vehicles using correct PPE, equipment and processes. Take care and thanks for watching. I really hope my video helped you fix your issue! / @grooveon I really hope my content helped you, 'Super Thanks' is available by clicking the button under the video thanks so much ! ❤️
Alternatively, you can just buy me a ''thankyou'' coffee!: ko-fi.com/grooveon

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Опубликовано:

11 сен 2023

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Комментарии : 57

@alealtomari7902 5 месяцев назад

Thank you very much, I've just fix my soft close following your instructions. Really appreciated. I'd like to buy you a coffee if we were in the same country 😂

@GrooveOn 5 месяцев назад

Thanks for that

@peterhjelm9807 6 месяцев назад

Thanks for sharing. Fixed 5 leaks and now it’s working again. Couldn’t have done it without your video.

@GrooveOn 6 месяцев назад

Hey amazing work! Where the leaks at the ball bearings and top tube? Thanks if you subscribed just a one man channel so any super thanks or 'buy me a coffee' link clicked is very kind!

@juaniglesiasgarcia7269 10 месяцев назад

Allways great explained videos!!! Thanks!!!!

@GrooveOn 10 месяцев назад

Glad you liked it! Thanks for the kind words, I like to try and get straight into the video and be helpful. Thanks kindly if you subscribed !

@RoyNgo-nh4lb 10 месяцев назад

Thank you for sharing your good work again, Sir.

@GrooveOn 10 месяцев назад

So nice of you, keeps me doing the help videos with your kind of encouragement ! appreciated if you've subscribed.

@RoyNgo-nh4lb 10 месяцев назад

Sorry, I thought I did to subscribe your channel,my bad. I did now. I hope you have a nice day.

@GrooveOn 10 месяцев назад

@@RoyNgo-nh4lb that's amazing thank you, really helps the small RU-vidr 😄

@DScaglione. 2 месяца назад

Brilliant

@Trubshaw2 9 месяцев назад

Thank you have you a video on how to take the boot handle out please?

@paulblandy987 10 месяцев назад

Great little video thanks 👍

@GrooveOn 10 месяцев назад

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks if you've subscribed!

@jedi-mic 2 месяца назад

It looks very similar to the SLK 230 03 it won't work central locking the key won't work but I think I haven't got the right key that can you be the same for the glove box key? the mechanism works with your finger to lock it moving the little actuator but I don't see any purple pipe? I saw a yellow connector I thought that was like a cable and it had a motor somewhere assuming, is it similar to What You've Got? Smaller I thought they were little gears in there the little white box, where is the compressed air made in the mechanism? Should I be able to hear it is there like a motor that makes the compressed air does it move a diaphragm in the mechanism?

@GrooveOn 2 месяца назад

Compressed are comes form PSU pump in boot, left hand side under roof pump, however this is in SL.

@vadamos 2 месяца назад

I love your videos dude they are very helpful and informative! I have this issue where I need to press the boot open button on the door a few times to actually get the boot to unlock, will this fix t or is it a seperate issue with the lock in the boot? Anu advice you can offer will be much appreciated!

@GrooveOn 2 месяца назад

Thanks for the kind words and if you subscribed. When you open the boot with the handle, does it pop open okay? or is it the same as when you press the door button that it takes a few go's? Also does the soft close work ok, does it pull close in about 1-2 secs or does it take a long time?

@vadamos 2 месяца назад

No most times it does not and I have to go operate it from the door switch. I don't think the soft close works at all.

@GrooveOn 2 месяца назад

@@vadamos okay then it's likely you have a leak on your boot actuator, very common. If you follow my video it shows how to remove and and fix. I doubt it's your actuator pump as you would have issues in locking the car

@jeffstewart7045 6 месяцев назад

After the recent cold snap, it appears that my doors won't lock off the remote button, and my boot/trunk won't open with either the remote button or the manual key. Everything else appears to be in fine fettle. I noticed that my wing mirrors were also not retracting either, and retraced everything back to the same 20amp fuse. After first praying that the problem was not the PSE pump in the boot, I opened the fuse box behind the driver's seat (UK) and removed the 20 amp fuse from the centrally positioned black holder designed to hold two fuses but with only the 20 amp fuse fitted (as shown in your video) This is - I am reliably informed - the fuse for the PSE pump. I replaced the old 20 amp fuse with a new one, and "Hey Presto" all was good with the world again! The boot opened, the mirrors closed and the doors locked automatically off the remote. This was fine for over a month, but now the same symptoms have reappeared, and replacement 20 amp fuses are blowing immediately - any suggestions?

@GrooveOn 6 месяцев назад

it sounds like something in the system is taking to long to activate, perhaps a short. The mirrors are electric and not linked to the PSE air system, however if you have set the mirrors to unfold when unlocking it sounds like the car is not getting to the air to the locks when you press the remote. I would get a diagnostic on your car to work out where the fault lies. You could check the trunk to see the actuator pump lines and test those . Does your trunk soft close operate in about 2 secs? if it takes longer to close then it could be a leak.

@jeffstewart7045 6 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn Thanks for coming back to me so quickly, it is much appreciated. Unfortunately, I cannot access the trunk with either the remote or manual key, but before this (and after the first time it happened) the soft trunk close was working well...I'll get my TopDon on the case on the weekend...

@GrooveOn 6 месяцев назад

@@jeffstewart7045 I've heard topdon is really good. Can you not pop trunk from door switch? What happens if you reset 20a fuse behind seats to restart pump?

@jeffstewart7045 6 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn …sorry, meant iCarSoft…swapped fuse but blew immediately (twice)…

@jeffstewart7045 6 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn BTW wing mirror closure function still works when using the button on the centre console, but not as part of the door locking/closing actions from the remote button…

@nixprivate3471 6 месяцев назад

Thank you firstly ! Secondly, I have a slight battery drain issue, and it was suggested that it is the boot actuator, and I know mine has a leak, I just haven’t plucked up the courage to fix it. I pulled the fuse and it worked like once or twice, which means there is a leak. Can this be the cause of my battery drain ? I doubt its the PSE pump as my central locking works fine. Lumbar support however, does not work. Any advice would be appreciated- Im down in Cape Town , South Africa and we don’t have many of these cars around, so to find a technician familiar with it, is impossible.

@GrooveOn 6 месяцев назад

Hi there, I doubt the actuator is draining your battery, my lumbar support also does not work and I have no issues with battery. You could check the BCM, Battery Control Module I think its right hand side behind panel in the trunk. Changing the bot actuator is not that bad, try and remove and see if you can fix any holes that I show.

@nixprivate3471 6 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn thank you 🙏🏼

@craigbates178 10 месяцев назад

What was the symptom that you are fixing? Closes too hard? Not at all? My 2009 seems to close hard and isn't always detected as being closed first try.

@GrooveOn 10 месяцев назад

Symptoms are usually that the trunk does not pull closed, the pump then times out and causes a fault which you need to clear by resetting fuse. I would have a look at your latch to see if it's aligned correctly

@TheoSmith249 10 месяцев назад

Where is the pneumatic pump located?, and does it operate the door locks? I just bought a Base 2005 SL500. the door locks work, but there is no soft close on the trunk lid. I also have to slam the lid to get the little red light on the driver door, to not illuminate(indicating vario roof inoperable). I'm sure the slamming has alot to do with the ball bearings and molded plastic to fail. Thanks for the very well made video.

@GrooveOn 10 месяцев назад

The pneumatic pump is underneath the roof pump, they are on the left of trunk under mat inside foam cover, pumps are held in by four screws.

@TheoSmith249 10 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn thanks very much. Will investigate with added confidence from your vid👍🏼

@ApplesnCastles 7 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn Thanks so much for your video's. I've been working through all of the common r230 issues (your vid's have helped me with a few) & this one is actually my last (apart from LED bulb errors for foglights that already have built-in resistors) but I confess - this one is beating me!! So I ended up fitting a brand new actuator as I couldn't see any cracks or hear any air escaping on the original actuator (after reset) & air from the line/pipe from the pump seemed strong (making me suspect pump was ok) so, after replacing the actuator with a new one from MB; the diagnostic timeout code ("B1442 the safety time of the power closing has been exceeded for the following Pneumatic Branch: trunk lid") on the diagnostic was exactly the same 😕 So I guess I'm left with 2 possibilities; either the pump itself ( I still think pump's ok given the air blast from the pump when I had the line disconnected & pump was reset) OR the air line pipe itself for the boot actuator is micro-perforated / damaged slightly somewhere. My thinking being: pump provides sufficient pressure to latch boot but then when pump is supposed to stop running, it assumes pressure holds within a tolerance for a period of time but the pressure drops immediately thereafter (from a compromised air-line/pipe) - which causes the timeout?? This is my theory. Would you think that a smoke machine might help locate if the air line from the pump to the actuator has a leak? Have you heard if this air-line be repaired & / or if part is available from MB. MB dealer will answer the latter Q when they open of course 😁 Thanks again!

@GrooveOn 7 месяцев назад

@@ApplesnCastles Thats so good work you have done there. So you have a brand new boot actuator fitted with the same fault? I wonder therefore is the line from the boot to the pump has a perforation? I had a slight wear and found a kink on one of my air tubes that prevented things working. Have you had a look at the pump box in the back and see what the condition of the pipes are like? try spraying some soapy water on the connections and check for leaks. Could attached a pressure gauge to the boot pneumatic line and see if there is a pressure drop?

@ApplesnCastles 7 месяцев назад

@@GrooveOn Thanks for the reply. Yes, band new actuator fitted, back of the PSE & the lines look mint (to me). I saw the kink in your line from your video. My old actuator looks just as good / new as the new one leading me to think the old one has zero leaks (just a gut feeling). I have literally just removed the PSE now; I came back into the house to check your video again (which is when I noticed your reply), as to which line the boot actuator is on the back of the PSE - as I intend to (daft though it may sound) block one end & then suck from the other (when both disconnected either end obv) to see if I can detect a vacuum drop / hole in the the line? If so, that would be my smoking gun as it were. My PSE connections on the rear of the PSE aren't labelled - and then try this. If it is this line, I'm hoping I can repair it - as I do not fancy opening up the wiring loom (which I assume it follows) through the hinge mechanism to route a new one (assuming a new one can be bought!). I'll need to make up some soapy water too I guess!