You did a great job! Next time you you do this replacement, you should always check the turbo inlet seal that seats in the turbo hose you removed. Damaged or worn seals are the biggest cause of turbo failure. Its a $20 part and you’re already in there. Make sure you lightly spray the seal and exterior turbo opening with silicone spray. That deters drying and cracking. Also, you didn’t show it in your video but, when ready to start the vehicle, don’t just try and start the engine. Turn the key to the acc position only, 2 or three times. Wait for the beeping to stop each time. This will prime the filter with fuel. Then you can start. Otherwise you will grind your starter. One last thing, as you probably since learned, you do not need to remove the fuel filter mounting bracket. Just loosen the little 5 mm Allen bolt on the side and this will allow the filter to come out.
I just made my first fuel filter change and hadn't read this thread beforehand. I had to drive 2-hrs round trip to get that turbo air intake gasket to finish the repair. All your points are well made and helpful - both of you! Thanks for such a great video. I am adding a great link to IDParts where you can purchase nearly the entire maintenance schedule of parts in one go. filters kit: www.idparts.com/sprinter-complete-engine-filter-pack-om642-30l-diesel-6421800009-6421800009pack-p-5254.html turbo gasket seal: www.idparts.com/sprinter-turbo-inlet-seal-late-red-0000940051-519280-p-6045.html and ear clamps: www.idparts.com/fuel-filter-hose-clamps-set-oem-om642om651-0069971890-0049972090-p-10777.html I wished that I had seen this website before I ordered off of Amazon . . .
Having been a pool guy for a number of years. I have found that silicone “spray” deteriorates oring’s. So I prefer a very light coat of silicone grease Magic Lube II (red). Silicone Spray is great for cleaning the old grease film off though.
VERY helpful thank you! Wow the little horseshoe shaped clip that holds the fuel line onto the black plastic unit on top of the fuel filter can really mess you up. If you take it out wrong and break it (like I did) finding a new one can be very difficult. Also, when you put that fuel line back on and secure it with that horseshoe clip, tug on it to make damn sure it's really100% on. Mine was off by a business-cards' width, and after driving it came off and was squirting fuel all over the filter & engine - could have burnt my Sprinter down. Was tough pushing the fuel line on far enough to legit get the clip in.
That is a wonderful video, direct to the point, very clear procedures and perfect image. Wow, you are a real pro. Just want to thank you so much. I bought the filter a year ago but I gave up on changing it because I was too afraid of breaking some components, but with your video I will do it this week. Thank you for all the newbies that we are.
Thank you Philip and I am glad. You like the video and motivate you to do your own maintenance and you'll be saving some money and you know? It's doing it right? Thank you for being a great viewer of my channel and if I can help in any the way please let me know😉👍
VERY VERY IMPORTANT, when removing the retaining clip it sits in there only one way, the top of the clip has an extrusion and it has to be be set in outwardly so towards the passenger side or road side not inwardly, I made that mistake after spending 2 hours cleaning my engine and when I turned on the key to pump fuel int the filter there was a spray fest going on from that hose because I did not put the retaining clip on te right way, save yourself a mess and pay close attention to how it was inserted when you take it off. little detail that saves a huge mess
For some reason the clip on my 2016 Navion RV (2015 Sprinter chassis) was installed in the reverse configuration. When I installed the new filter I tried to install the clip with the extrusion facing the passenger side and it would not seat. So I installed it the other way and it clipped right in. No leaks......so far.
Hi Capt... That filter sure is 'hidden' away under a bunch of equipment... It would be nice if Mercedes would have a 'remote' fuel filter like the Racor fuel filter/water separators we have on boats! This video has a lot of good information!
Awesome Andrew thank you for watching and the reason Mercedes puts the filter right in the middle of the engine is to heat up the diesel and make it more efficient as you know diesel the hotter it gets the better they works and thank you for watching this channel captain👍👍👍😉
Great video. Thanks for sharing. A word of caution to all. If you pause the video at 5:05, you'll notice a return line for the injectors directly over the lines to the fuel filter. If you follow the return line to the right, its connected to a plastic T fitting (seen in the video). That plastic fitting can easily break. I was a little careless and leaned on it. You cannot replace the fitting alone. You have to purchase the entire fuel return line assembly.. I think it was about $ 100. I just cut up the new one and spliced it with the existing one. IIRC, to do it properly, one side of the engine is a real PITA. About 3-4 hrs. Don't break the fitting!!
Nice video. It took me almost an hour to get the Turbo inlet hose off. What finally broke it loose was putting an 18 mm box-end wrench behind the little side tube and prying out with that.
Just did this job myself today and turbo inlet pipe was a pain to remove. What helped a lot was using a heat gun to soften the rubber. After heating it for a few minutes and just working that pipe back and forth it got unstuck from the turbo.
@@mkanalytics1355 I ended up doing the same but with my hair blower haha! I didn’t replace the seal as it looked fine 🤷♀️. Happy to only have had the little tiny plastic clip that held the water drainage line be the thing that broke
Thanks again. A couple of things to mention. One, instead of unbolting and removing the bracket with the fuel filter, I did as someone suggested in the comments for another video and just loosed the 5mm screw holding the filter in the bracket which allowed me to remove the filter leaving the bracket in place. Don't know that it saved much time or effort. Second, my check engine light is on after the filter change. Hoping it resets in a few miles of driving. Any thoughts on that?
Verify all your sensors are plugged in! Even if you fix the problem the light may stay on so go to a local auto parts store, they’ll scan the light for free. If you find a nice guy they’ll even reset it!
Great video, really appreciate it. Any tips on where to find one of the little plastic clips on the hose from the water separator thing? The one on there crumbled it’s way out.
On my '16 Sprinter it is MB part #000-998-11-22-28 and comes with a cap. Didn't need the cap, but as far as I know that is the only way to get the clip. Cheaply made part costs $3.
Bonjour monsieur j'ai le véhicule sprinter cdi 319 année 2010 moteur v6 La dernière fois j'ai rencontré un problème des que le tour minute dépasse les 2000 tours le moteur s'arrête J'ai changé le filtre à gazoil j'ai vérifié les injecteurs tout est normal Je veux vous demander de me conseiller de quoi il s'agit
Great video! I’ve got a 2013 with 32K that my son’s rock band uses for gigs. One of the guys added a half of a tank of gasoline and drove it 2 miles. I’m considering flushing the fuel lines and replacing the filter and seeing what happens.
Thanks for the video I just did the schedule b maintenance…I would like to ask if you felt the need to replace the rubber boot that connects the air intake to the turbo… It’s a 2020 and I’ve done 32,000 miles since I’ve owned … it was hard coming off but went on easy and I just tightened it down…. Mercedes is saying it needs replace every time you remove the hose … what’s your thoughts and should I put anything around it like high temp sealant… thanks in advance
My van is a 2017 they may be different im not sure but if you see the hose has no damage and looks good i don't see why replace ir , specifically they are not cheap
Thank you for a great video. Just a thing to add, since I did this job outside well below freezing at 15F it was helpful to use a heat gun to soften the rubber on fuel hoses and turbo inlet pipe. I don't think I could have done it without heating the rubber. The turbo inlet was stuck solid and would not budge. Fortunately I was able to remove everything without damage. I had to change the fuel filter due to a water in fuel light coming up earlier. Just a note for anyone who had same issue. I didn't drain the fuel tank. Instead I got a water detection paste Gasoila ap2 and used it to check diesel samples that I took out of the bottom of the fuel tank and from a fuel filter drain hose. Since it didn't detect any water in fuel I just replaced a filter and was done with it. The water in fuel light didn't came on through the rest of a fuel tank so I think it was minor contamination or an old filter +cold weather. Anyways someone in the comments pointed out that draining a fuel tank with the filter replacement would be around $1000 job plus you have to tow the van to the dealer as soon as the light comes on. So now I have a spare fuel filter and a set of tools to replace it in case I need to do it on the road.
Mercedes doesn't let the dealers sell the clip. But, if you go into the dealer they can sell you a fuel filter cap that has the clip in it. If your parts guy knows anything about Sprinters he should know what you are talking about.
Thanks man, taking the fear out of doing my own maintenance on my sprinter! I have maintained all my own rigs through the years, my sprinter is intimidating...
You dont have to. "Turn the key to the acc position only, 2 or three times. Wait for the beeping to stop each time. This will prime the filter with fuel. Then you can start."
On my 2017 Sprinter 3.0L V6 the service interval is every 20K and the OEM filter is the MANN-FILTER WK 820/21 Fuel Filter. I get mine at Amazon for $80 (current price May '24).
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
Good info! It's also good to see a new video from you. We need more info on here about Sprinters. Good and easy DIY work to keep our vans running. Thank you.
Awesome thank you for your positive feedback and yes I will keep making more new videos to help our fellow drivers how to maintain their own Sprinter vans and thank you for watching👍
Thank you so much for the positive feedback really appreciate you watching the channel and soon I will upload new more videos on this channel thank you for being part of it👍👍
Well the reason they put the fuel filter right in the middle of the engine is to use the heat of the engine to heat up the fuel so it's deluded a lot quicker and it flows easier to the injectors that's the reason they put it in a very hot area in the middle of the engine
well done well explained and kept he camera steady and in proper position so we can see how its done, excellent video. Now thats how to make a how to video