Mercedes, W126 all 8 Cylinder - Airflow Plate resting adjustment, idle speed adjustment & issues

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Important Note:
Once the plate resting position is corrected by properly adjusting pin, then
There is no more “gap or play” in the plate and Allen screw should be set to start fuel flow as soon as plate opens up!
This maybe the most important video to watch for anyone working on W126 8 Cylinder
Remember:
Dowel Pin location:
3.8L & 5.0L Engine - driver side below fuel feed line
4.2L & 5.6L Engine - passenger side to the front of airflow potentiometer

Опубликовано:

8 ноя 2021

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Комментарии : 150

@rickdunn2041 2 года назад

excellent description and video, keep up the good work

@diemme568 2 года назад

excellent video; i can testify the 300 CE 6 cylinders (1990) - which looks a bit different overall - also has the same "geography" as shown; you can regulate the sensor plate's resting position in pretty much the same way. but then you end up with the pin no longer flush with the outer surface of the housing and looks a bit "messed up". if you like the pin to be flush again on the external upper surface of the housing and the sensor plate at the right height, then do as follows - I'll try my best English (I'm Italian) for anyone wanting to achieve the same "not-messed-around" look. Take the unit and hold it in your hands *upside* *down* - it's important, or some instructions don't make sense. the sensor plate's resting position is reached when the pin mounted on the "secondary lever" (the shorter one, the one that effectively regulates the fuel by hitting the plunger in the fuel distributor) hits against a *spring* *plate* . why this spring? Well, please: (a) is the reasoning behind it; (b) is how you solve the issue - feel free to skip (a): *(a)* the *spring* plate is there precisely for the case of *backfires*: when there's a detonation, the rubber boot swells due to increased internal pressure and and the sensor plate is violently pushed outside. The lever hitting the pin doesn't let the hot gases escape the closed housing, and the lever and the sensor plate my be bent and / or broken apart. BUT: the spring gives in and allows the sensor plate and the main lever arm to extend over the *normal* range of motion, thus letting the exhaust gases leak out of the unit without grave damages; that is, more often than not -- that's also the reason for a *rubber* bottom, or "boot", which also absorbs part of the explosion's energy, by swelling. Nonetheless, apart from this "emergency overextension" via spring plate, the "normal" range of motion should only extend to the point where the pin on the secondary lever hits the spring plate without bending it: the spring needn't give in, under normal circumstances. This is achieved by design with the pin's external surface flush with the external surface of the housing; So if you hammer it down to restore the sensor plate's right rest position, well... it surely *works* but... it looks like you messed around with it, because the pin is no longer flush with the outer surface. *(b)* THAT position (pin hitting the spring plate) defines the sensor plate's resting position. In order to restore a lower (or, if you're holding it upside down, "raised") position of the sensor plate after a detonation, it's the spring plate, that has to move! but it can't: the spring plate is being held DOWN by a *ring * tightly fitted onto the pin. (remember you' re holding the unit upside down). So, the "RING" has to come UP in order to let the spring plate come "up", but you can't grab it with plyers or so... it's also too hard to do; in this video is illustrated what you'd normally do: just hammer the whole pin (with ring on it) from the outside (thus towards you holding it upside down). but then you have it no longer flush with the outer surface. it has lowered. (seen from the outside, and not upside down). BUT: if you - holding it upside down - place something between spring plate and the housing's "bottom" (which would be the ceiling, in operational orientation) you can hold the spring plate in place - and the *ring* which rests on the plate - while you hammer the pin -- AND ONLY THE PIN -- "down" till it comes out "up" of the other side (the outer surface of the housing) a couple mm. now: plate and ring haven't moved -- you held them in place -- only the pin has been forced through the housing's bore to exit from the opposite side. When the pin has come outside the housing, flip the unit into normal operational orientation, grab the hammer and hammer the pin "down" until it's flush with the outer surface again. the NET EFFECT of all that, is that you effectively moved THE RING ONLY along the pin and the spring plate has now returned to its original position - with slightly more released tension. The sensor plate's resting position has returned in a more lowered position (normal orinentation, not upside down). if it's not enough, just repeat: it takes only 1 minute. RESULT IS: the sensor plate is at the right height again, AND the pin is flush with the outer surface of the housing.

@michaelrush8038 2 месяца назад

OBTW, really enjoyed your video!!

@spacemonkey2829 2 месяца назад

Nice video. Thank you. Appreciate it.

@igoriakoven3665 2 года назад

Thank you!

@mbmann3892 Год назад

Thanks for the info

@Hessy57 Год назад

Thanks for your great videos on these Bosch systems. I am just in the middle of a rebuild on the whole of the fuel system on my 450 SLC. I have had the fuel distributor rebuilt by a very well known German firm and am about to install it in the air flow unit. I am trying to establish where the piston of the fuel distributor should sit so as to adjust the inner arm on the unit so as the roller is in contact with the bottom of the piston. I have adjusted the plate in the venturi by tapping the pin so as it now sits just perfect as per your video. My old top CO2 adjustment was mangled by a previous owner so i have now replaced it with a new allen head screw. I can adjust the inner arm on the shaft of the plate unit with a 3mm allen key through the hole of the CO2 adjusting screw so as to get a basic starting set up before I reassemble the unit. Is this the correct way to get the basic setting of the fuel distributor piston on the roller of the adjuster that is in contact with the fuel distributor piston and what is the correct setting of the piston in the fuel distributor, should it be all the way down in its travel so as it sits on the retaining bracket.

@Johnathan_Waters Год назад

I just wanted to mention that you have been uploading some absolutely GREAT Bosch CIS content. Something that is REALLY missing on the internet in general. Great job. DO you have a Patreon account? Let me know if you need anymore W126 parts!

@inovahightechltd Год назад

Thanks Jonathan! No I do not have a patreon account. I will be in touch for W126 parts! Peter

@Johnathan_Waters Год назад

@@inovahightechltd You REALLY should look into getting one going! If nothing else it can help pay for any costs that your videos incur, and maybe even enable you to make them even better!

@user-dc1nj7tl3x Год назад

Hi thanks for the info I m shad mechanic @ Queenstown the car i m busy with Mercedes 124 doesn't feed injectors car doesn't start is back fireing show fuel not getting in

@martinburke3755 10 месяцев назад

Hello, Great videos coming in very useful!!! I'm in the middle of bringing a 500SEL back to life and figured air was next, It is a car that was hardly running when I got it, 15 hours for a 3 hour drive bad. My plate was sitting high, I thought I would hit the pin and drop it down to the lip, (it was high exactly as in the video), I knocked it about the same distance as in the video til exact and then adjusted the 3mm allen tower while jumping 7/8 fuel, Fuel started to flow as the 3mm allen was at its full right, plate has zero spring... any less the fuel pin isn't triggered as it had zero more play available, Problem is I reckon... I done it in situ on the engine. Watching the video I see your adjusting a pin on what sits under the fuel distributor and turning the allen key tower, because my tower is limited as its adjusting to the fuel at the same time Although it's dawning on me now, I have to have the fuel distributor off to adjust the plate heigh/gap at the tower so left that it isn't leaning the fuel as i do it. presumably no easy way to do it but to take off the fuel distributor and adjust the plate height?

@inovahightechltd 10 месяцев назад

No, the Allen screw in this little tower is spring loaded and has also a 3 mm Allen key on the other end which will go into the actual setscrew when depressed. You wind up basically with two Allen key’s in series If you have fuel flow in this plate resting position then you need to adjust screw counter clockwise If your fuel pump is off when doing this adjustment then just pushing the Allen key down to overcome the internal spring can push the plate down. These adjustments take practice, lots of practice and are done in 1/8 turns in either clockwise (richer) or counterclockwise (leaner) direction If you do this with the fuel pump running then the plate has more resistance and will not move as far down when pressing the Allen key down to make adjustments But this will flood your engine. After making adjustments to mixture with running fuel pumps, crank your engine for 30 seconds with no fuel pump relay or jumper cable on 7/8 to clear fuel out before trying to normally start it

@martinburke3755 10 месяцев назад

@@inovahightechltd Thank you for your response, much appreciated, So at the barrell there are two adjustments achievable?, "Dig" the allen down to adjust the arm in terms of where it is in relation to the fuel distributor pin and the point at which it opens fuel, and then by not digging it down it gives space for the 2/3mm spongyness adjustment (which for me currently is at far clockwise limit, I better recenter it before the above and create space for adjustments), So possible without removing the fuel distributor, And thank you for the reminder to clear the fuel out, I'll let you know how it goes, All the best, Martin

@martinburke3755 10 месяцев назад

That's amazing, I've already watched your video a dozen times and it's only after seeing it again now having read your response I got the differentiation into my head, Thanks again!!!

@martinburke3755 9 месяцев назад

@@inovahightechltd Hi, I was messing with the 3mm allen, I'm not able to get the plate to gap 2/3mm, I did take off the fuel distributor and could see when the allen went in it raised the wheel under the FD piston, put it back on and no 2/3mm gap, fuel was flowing evenly jumping 7 and 8 on the relay port and pushing down on the plate, I did have to push the plate a small bit further than desired It really seems to me that the 3mm allen is only adjusting the screw to meet the FD piston sooner, the plate loses its gap and I can't create a gap without delaying the fuel flow, Am I right in the belief that the 3mm allen should adjust 2 different aspects, dependant on the depth you push it in? 1: deep push of the allen = the distance the plate needs to be pushed before the piston is contacted and fuel flows 2: not deep push of allen key will create or lessen the 2/3mm gap between the plate, All I'm achieving is number 1 above, Strongly considering taking off the air housing and knock my pin back up and thinking that may come at it from the other side and lessen the distance before the plate hits the FD piston,,, but my pin was only knocked in the 2/3mm until the plate was to its lip, Thanks again, Martin

@inovahightechltd 9 месяцев назад

@martinburke3755 “it really seems to me that the 3 mm Allen is only adjusting the screw to meet the FD piston sooner” That’s exactly the purpose. The 2 to 3 mm “play” is not needed when you adjust the plate resting position with the pin. In this case the fuel flow should start as soon as the plate is opening

@letsgetdoing 2 года назад

Thanks for the amazing work! But to the Mercedes designers of the w126 A PIN AND DOWEL?!?!?!??! C'mon son!!!

@Ledfndr 2 года назад

The interference fit makes a vacuum tight seal without needing rubber, and it also won't vibrate and change the position; simple tech, but effective 🤷‍♂️

@wungabunga 2 года назад

'Hang on, let me just hit the engine with a hammer one second'. I actually like it.

@michaelrush8038 2 месяца назад

Question; I am working on a 1989-560SL. Rebuilding fuel dist and setting the air flow stop position. Seems my air flow plate may be bent because the front, or 12 o'clock position" of the plate does not match the 6 o'clock position at the "ring on housing". Does that confirm plate is bent? I would also like to ask, your technical book, as mine, shows the line up point of the plate in reference to the housing to be to the rear. Does that matter if plate is straight? And if not straight, is 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position best to adjust at/to?

@inovahightechltd 2 месяца назад

Thanks for watching my videos! The plate should be absolutely flat and has to be centered. These plates bend when the engine back fires which usually happens when the oxygen sensor goes bad. As to 6 and 12 o’clock, should be the same when stop position is correct and plate is not flat.

@emilioaugustolazozaia143 Год назад

Hello. Thank you for all your useful and very detailed videos! I would like to ask you some questions about the 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture on M103 engine: As the adjustment involves some dependent and independent regulations, i.e. the idle rest position, EHA screw (independents), air flow plate screw and control plunger nut (dependents) sometimes the process is somehow difficult, however I did it with my two SE300 1986/1989 cars before I was aware of the idle rest position adjustment. But now I do have some problems adjusting again these two cars: - How does these dependent adjustments should be made? The control plunger should be adjusted before the screw that leans/enriches the mixture, but what's the exact point on which the plunger must be set and how this can be determined? A wrong position on the control plunger yields on a condition of not being able to set correctly the lean/rich screw and consequently unstable idle, starting problems, black smoke and so on. - The lean/rich screw on air flow plate must be set as with 1mm-2mm of clearance but should the fine setting be done with the engine running? That's the way I did it. - When the plate is pressed down, it does not go back to the idle position because of an excessive friction on the axis. What procedure should be taken to disassemble the whole lever to clean the axis? Thanks Kind regards Emilio

@inovahightechltd Год назад

Hi Emilio, Thank you for your questions. I will answer them over weekend (today is Thursday. Thanks Peter

@emilioaugustolazozaia143 Год назад

@@inovahightechltd Hi Peter, No problem! I started with the last item, i.e. I did disassemble almost the whole air flow sensor and cleaned it. Now it returns to the upper position without friction. I did experienced issues with the plate itself but I've centered it perfectly. Now the problem I have is the brushes on the axis that makes contact with the potentiometer. I'm trying to straighten all these little wires... I guess I won't have problems with that. A new doubt I have is the angular position of the axis, I mean the position of the axis regarding the point of contact of the brushes with the potentiometer. After all these parts were installed on the car I'll face with the first doubts I expressed that are unanswered in every MB / Bosch manual I have read... Thank you in advance for any advice! Have a Happy New Year! Best regards. Emilio

@inovahightechltd Год назад

@@emilioaugustolazozaia143 Hi Emilio, the instructions on how to correctly setup the potentiometer are in group 07.3 in your manuals. One chapter of group 07.3 also explains on how to set the end stop for the plate correctly. Happy New Year Peter

@emilioaugustolazozaia143 Год назад

@@inovahightechltd Hi Peter. How are you? I'm fine; I hope you too! After the new year holiday I'm returning to comment that I have the MB manuals on WIS/ASRA (I found nothing there), and also two pdf: - Bosch Mechanical Gasoline Fuel-Injection Systems with Lambda Closed-Loop Control K-Jetronic. 63 pages - Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management (Charles O. Probst). 217 pages. On the 217 pages manual I found something about the plunger recess or clearance (oring adjustment), i.e. what I was looking for. It states that if the zero position is right and the basic position is wrong, probably the plunger adjustment must be made. 'Your shop manual should have the specifications for the screw recess. Turn the slotted screw as necessary. One-quarter turn of the nut changes clearance between the plunger and the sensor-plate lever by 1.3mm'. What? I don't understand. After setting correctly the zero position, the basic position is no more than to 2mm of 'play' on the plate before touching the plunger, but this play depends on the mixture screw and on the plunger position. I guess we should set first the plunger to its correct position and after that the mixture screw to obtain the clearance (that depends on the engine condition as you stated on your video, and that's the range of 2mm of play), so the first variable we should adjust seems to be the plunger recess and not the mixture screw... My two cars were operating with a plunger set to 0,24mm and 0.30mm or recess. As you know, with the fuel distibutor disassembled, zooming at the slits we can see when the fuel delivery starts. With this 0.30mm recess there is no fuel delivery until we push the plunger a little bit. On some other resources (video and texts) I found that 0.60mm should be this recess. Now, with the fuel distributor opened I adjusted the plunger to 0.60mm but looking at the slits I think there is some fuel delivery without pushing the plunger... My cars are M103 engine. Is there a value of this recess for my engine or simply I should set it to just before when I estimate the fuel delivery starts? 0.30mm may be is too far. With this value the plunger has some little dead travel before the fuel delivery stars. Regarding the air flow sensor, I did disassembled it, now it is very clean and it moves freely on its axis, it bounces four times when I release it from the bottom position, so it is ok! But I didn't found anything on the manuals about the axis, I mean the position of the axis which hold the brushes. I tightened the two screws of the lever on a position I estimated the brushes does the complete travel through the potentiometer but there are no marks except the one I engraved on the hollow on which the brushes resides. I did the zero adjustment as you explained in your video and with the aid of the manuals. Being my air flow sensor a downdraft sensor, I hammered the pin until the top face of the plate lied on the top end of the narrowest part of the venturi funnel (at the side farthest from the fuel distributor). It seems to be also ok. I hope finishing it today. Thanks for any comment!! All the best. Have a nice day/year. Emilio.

@inovahightechltd Год назад

@@emilioaugustolazozaia143 Hi Emilio, happy new year to you too. The plunger (piston) recess varies by Bosch part number and is heavily dependent on air metering unit the FD is mounted too. The plunger (piston) recess also sets the stage for the final calibration of the FD as to fuel flow at idle which requires the plunger to be depressed by 1mm and the fuel flow to be adjusted to 4 ml/min to 6 ml/min depending on MB specification in MB Manual Group 07.3-160 Calibration of FD is done with FD on test bench: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a2dTbVLPF10.html Peter

@190mex Год назад

Does this zero position also apply to KE-jetronic on model w201 ?

@inovahightechltd Год назад

Yes

@peterierino9508 2 года назад

Hi, can you suggest where I could get a workshop manual for the W126 300SE 103 engine Thanks

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

Hi Peter, I would try eBay first for a formal print version first. You will need Service, Chassis, AC, Electric and Engine plus data book. There are some online companies who sell those online as pdf download. The scanned images are better with some, worse with others. I got some manual sets from www.emanualonline.com/ For my 560SEL W126 and they were accurate and 100% identical to the print edition Hope that helps

@garylim6486 13 дней назад

how can you adjust RESTING plate without punching that pin back to lower?? any other ways to adjust this resting plate back down to original position by correcting vacuum hoses leaks or other ways??....thanks

@inovahightechltd 13 дней назад

Gary, only by punching.

@filonzi85 Год назад

Hello! Great video! What is the book/workshop manual that you show in this video? Many thanks!

@inovahightechltd Год назад

Hi Angelo, Thanks for watching! This is the Mercedes Benz Service Manual Group 7.3 but I can’t remember the chapter number. Peter

@filonzi85 Год назад

@@inovahightechltd Thank you so much for your quick response!

@gcgj1540 2 месяца назад

Hello, thank you for your videos. I have a 1990 w126 260se m103 engine Ece version (no cat and no o2 sensor) I have adjusted the plate to correct position like you shown in the video. After that I adjusted the mixture screw about half a turn Ccw to have the 1 to 3mm free play but in this position the car idles very bad and eventually stalls if I accelerate. If I return the mixture screw half a turn Cw again the car idles much better and acceleration is good however in this position I noticed I don’t have the required 1 to 3mm free play. the plate is very stiff seems to have a lot of pressure. Do you know what could be causing this? Any idea what should I check?

@inovahightechltd 2 месяца назад

You need to find the sweet spot. Turn the screw ccw until engine runs rough, then turn cw until engine runs rough again. Note how many turns it took to go from rough lean to rough rich. Now go back ccw until your about in the middle of the rough sides. Then warm up engine and check duty cycle and co exhaust. The 1 to 3 mm is just a starting point so you can start the engine

@gcgj1540 2 месяца назад

Ok thank you I will do it. About Duty cycle last time I checked it was 60% stuck. Maybe because my car don’t have an o2 sensor? although I read somewhere it says it’s a problem with the car speed signal not sure what that means.

@inovahightechltd 2 месяца назад

@@gcgj1540 yes, no cat no O2 sensor means fixed duty cycle - don’t forget, this engine needs leaded gasoline or a lead substitute if you get unleaded gas

@user-sm9zy4zt1l 2 года назад

سلام آقا. خیلی خیلی ممنون ازاینکه خوب توضیح میدی ممکنه زیر نویس فارسی بزارید مرسی.

@BillKorteland Месяц назад

My '91 500SL starts easily and idles fine for 90 seconds. Then starts to chug and almost die. At that point it will no longer take throttle smoothly and rendered undriveable. New caps rotors, plugs. Cleaned air idle control valve and adjusted to full close at 1 ampere. Problem persists. O2 sensor? Plugged CAT?? Any ideas for a frustrated diy mechanic? Tnx for your great videos.

@inovahightechltd Месяц назад

The issue is fuel mixture, either to lean or rich. Disconnect ECU from wiring harness with battery disconnected. Reconnect battery and start engine. If problem no longer exists then the issue is ECU / EHA / potentiometer issue. Follow MB manual group 7.3 for trouble shooting. If the problem still exists, then your mixture is off. Adjust mixture by adjusting 3mm Allen screw until satisfactory results are achieved. Do this only in very small increments, 1/16 to 1/8 turn at a time Reconnect ECU with battery disconnected

@houryabdel8444 Год назад

Why did you push down the pin since it doesn’t have contact with the lever?

@inovahightechltd Год назад

So it makes contact with lever again - watch the video it explains it

@glenwilke8087 Год назад

Hello From Australia, I am hoping you can Help me with my Issue/s. My w126 Marc 500 se has only 136 Thou K's. It has been standing under covers for 8 years. T o get it back on the road I did the following. Drained fuel tank and cleaned fuel lines. New fuel pump and filters.New eha. New fuel pressure regulator.New spark plugs / leads / Distributor cap and rotor.The car started but ran very rough.Smells like excessive fuel and black smoke and back fire. I then tried to adjust the c/o screw and can't remember the original position. Now car won't start AND the spark plugs are wet with fuel........????????

@inovahightechltd Год назад

I am pretty sure that your fuel distributor is shut. Suggesting rebuilding distributor before any further start attempts ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-769gMFE2VJE.html

@GandaGarage 2 года назад

I adjusted the plate according to your video on the bench. Now that it is back in the car, I notice the plate is moving up a bit as soon as the fuel pump builds pressure. After sitting a while, it returns to the set position. Is this normal? This is a K-jet thus tapping it down further is difficult while assembled.

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

It shouldn’t. Because you adjusted the final end stop. I would investigate this further to see of why the plate moves up which it technically really can’t because of the pin unless the pin itself moves

@GandaGarage 2 года назад

@@inovahightechltd I assumed there was some kind of spring mechanism. E.g. I had a pop of smoke shooting up at the first crank attempt, which made the plate pop up, then it returned to its original position without issue. I'll investigate more.

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

That would indicate that your engine back fired when you started to crank

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

@@GandaGarage have you checked your timing with a timing light? The timing cannot be adjusted but you can verify correct position of distributor and properly working EZL

@GandaGarage 2 года назад

@@inovahightechltd thanks good suggestion. I have renewed my ignition distributor vacuum advance unit as it didn't hold vacuum, thus timing was off indeed. I can start the car now without the vacuum connected and I set it in range; this is a 380sl thus I can still set it (10+ degrees at 1500 rpm and about 24 degrees at 3500). But when I connect vacuum to the advance unit it still doesn't want to start.

@carlosramirez-vt3vc Год назад

Lastima q no es en español sería de gran ayuda

@marcovera7865 5 месяцев назад

Does the K-Jet with Lamba follow the same guidelines as the KE-Jet when it comes to adjusting the mixture screw?

@inovahightechltd 5 месяцев назад

The K-Jet with Lambda, the second generation K Jetronic also called KA Jetronic requires only adjustment with CO tester in exhaust pipe. 1980 models less then 3% or 4% (check manual chapter 07.2), after MY81 to KE jetronic 2% or less at idle and coolant temp ~ 85C. Make sure your Cat is ok and Warm Up Regulator is adjusted correctly, otherwise you will loose you hair

@marcovera7865 5 месяцев назад

My Warmup regulator has been rebuilt by CIS flowtech and all the major fuel system components rebuilt or replaced. System is also air tight. I am checking mixture with an oscilloscope that reads the signal going to the frequency valve. The problem I have is that if I set mixture correctly at idle, the fuel system leans out at 2000rpm…. If I set it at 2000rpm I am rich at idle…. Could this indicate that my Cat is plugged? Car has 105k mi…..

@inovahightechltd 5 месяцев назад

Can you tell which specific vehicle you have like 126.039 with engine 117.986 as example?

@marcovera7865 5 месяцев назад

1982 380sl so 116.962

@inovahightechltd 5 месяцев назад

Are you using Manual 14-100? For your engine range is 30% to 70% measured with Bosch Lambda Tester with breakout connector on control unit in front passenger footwell area The signal / on off ratio measured on frequency valve is different from the measurement taken with the Bosch Lambda Control Tester KDJE-P 600 on the control unit

@johnwick-vj1zd 5 месяцев назад

Hello, I have a 260E vehicle with an M103 engine. It stalls at idle when using gasoline. It starts by pressing the gas pedal. What is the reason?

@inovahightechltd 5 месяцев назад

No clue

@johnwick-vj1zd 5 месяцев назад

@@inovahightechltd I am writing from Turkey, there is no one who understands these vehicles, can you help me?

@inovahightechltd 5 месяцев назад

@@johnwick-vj1zd this car maybe equipped with an aftermarket start/stop feature like when you get to a traffic light it will stop engine after a few seconds. The cars run only on gasoline

@johnwick-vj1zd 5 месяцев назад

@@inovahightechltd There is an LPG system in my vehicle. There is no problem with LPG, it works well. There is only a problem with gasoline.

@inovahightechltd 5 месяцев назад

@@johnwick-vj1zd sorry, but this is beyond my expertise. I deal only with gasoline engines.

@josenevesneves7880 2 года назад

Pode me ajudar na 500 se w126 v8?

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

I am sorry, but I don’t speak / write / read your language. Maybe some one else can jump in and translate. Thanks Peter

@glim888 8 дней назад

Sir, I am trying to reset my timing for TDC. Confuse about these markings.... Which marking do I use to set my TDC....ZERO or the rod that sticking out about 5mm? This is on my 89' 420sel original parts. Thx in advance... Gary

@inovahightechltd 8 дней назад

Hi Gary, TDC on Crankshaft? Just making sure I a understand your question correctly since this video deals with the fuel metering unit

@glim888 8 дней назад

Yes, I was going to do timing adjustments for the distributor cap and DTC inline...and saw that additional pin that sticking out near those numders...numbers.... What's that pin for?

@glim888 8 дней назад

Could I call you to explain what I am trying to do and have some questions regarding this plate adjustment and ruff idling....on my engine....cold hard start issues?

@inovahightechltd 8 дней назад

Again, the pin on the engine block or the tiny pin on the balancer?

@glim888 8 дней назад

Pin on the balancer

@glim888 20 дней назад

How to remove ball bearing seal from top of adjustment?

@inovahightechltd 20 дней назад

Need to check ball bearing removal

@glim888 19 дней назад

@@inovahightechltd how to remove ?

@inovahightechltd 19 дней назад

@glim888 you have to carefully drill out the ball

@glim888 18 дней назад

Could I cut off top 0.5in?

@glim888 18 дней назад

Another guy mentioned....if the original ball is still on the part, do not attempt to remove or adjust from the top

@jerryross9339 2 года назад

My car is hard to start after Walmart takes about a minute to start

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

I get the shits every time I come out off Walmart

@Rossithailand 2 года назад

1.9 mm play ok

@inovahightechltd 2 года назад

Should be if your car starts

@glim888 7 дней назад

My rotor is pointing to cylinder #6 at TDC on ZERO

@inovahightechltd 7 дней назад

Garry, the crankshaft has two turns for one turn on camshaft and distributor You need to take off both camshaft covers and align camshaft tdc marks with crankshaft tdc mark. Only then can you adjust distributor

@inovahightechltd 7 дней назад

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HmBpeBP3ZkE.htmlsi=p9EKjsCMWLPSYAR8

@glim888 7 дней назад

Is that WHY my NOX was high? Wow, I have to remove BOTH vales covers again to see camshaft DTC? CAR DIVES ok, but a bit weak and unstable RPM

@inovahightechltd 7 дней назад

@@glim888 there is probably a lot more wrong You need to get the MB service manuals and do the entire diagnostics in group 07.3 This is beyond the comment section or by phone to guide you through this

@glim888 7 дней назад

I'd replace those chain guides and valves cover gaskets, and make sure TDC on both camshafts were inline .....then instead distributor cap.....I thought rotor was pointing close to cycliner#1....not too sure. In that case , could I pull out the distributor assembly and reinstall rotor to point at #1 cylinder?