Here is a lesson on these engines pertaining to idle air. Do NOT go cheap on the idle air distribution hoses. Mine were totally deformed after one year and not sealing. I was ready to junk my 560SEL over going cheap on the idle air tubes. The result was 1000s of dollars in parts and labor, 100s of hours of confusion and frustration, horrible unstable and hunting idle with every part changed twice, only to find out later on it was the URO idle air tubes deformed and “breathing” like lungs as the engine tried to idle.
Australia here.OK so that is the basic of whats what and how it works.Interesting as I had an Mercedes 380 SEL that would often stall when stopping and then refuse to start for about 15 seconds after.I now have a 380 SE on LPG,runs great no problems.I also have a 380 SEC that stumbles at higher RPM,stalls when pulling up and sometimes refuses to start when hot.I know its a fuel issue but its off to the mechanic for that repair.
Hi thanks for a good tutorial. I have a problem with my 500sec 1989 that it drops in rpm for a couple of seconds when cruising in a steady speed or when the cruise control is activated. No problem on idle and it accelerates god. Thanks for good videos.
An extemely useful turorial. Thank you for taking the time to complete it. An excellent presentation! I have an M117 500 SL, euro spec, 1985. It appears, having looked at your presentation, that I need to go further with replacing the rubber parts of the vacum system than just the injector seals, that are fitted to the actual injectors. My engine idle sits at about 900 to 1000 and still has the engine rocking, no matter how low I try to adjust it with the allen key. Should the engine be almost still at idle, i.e be able to balance a coin on it? The previous owner spent £9000 on having the heads, cams, replaced!!
Hi Neil, Thank you. The answer to “should the engine be still at idle” would be in general, yes. However, there are two very critical items which are responsible for this besides vacuum related parts. That is for one an equal amount of fuel coming out of each port on the fuel distributor which is in all reality a fuel divider and the actual clearances of the valve rockers - my engine is at 92K miles after a more or less partial rebuilt. My engine has a minute vibration which is due to the fact that I have not done rocker arms or lifter clearances as of yet. I bought an rebuilt fuel distributor of eBay for 600 bucks but I am not sure if the fellow who rebuilt it actually did a simultaneous fuel flow test like in this video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1-PuxKL3ieY.html The MB manual clearly indicates on the allowable difference for a fuel distributor and the tolerances are quite tide
Thank you for your prompt and informative response. I would think my fuel distributor is due a rebuild as I have 91000mls and 37yrs on the car. Interestingly, I disconnected my ISCV when the engine was warm and the revs increased. I note this is due to vacum leaks in one of your replies. I shall certainly purchase all new rubbers parts from MB for the vacum system as mine are rock soild and very brittle. Regards, Neil
Hi Neal, When you disconnect the connector on the ISCV the idle rpm will go up to 1500 to 2000rpm because the ISCV is now fully open, not because of leaks. When the idle speed valve is driven by a current of 1.4 Amps then the idle will be around 500rpm and the engine will stutter and may die completely. If you have vacuum leaks and you apply 1.4Amps which equates to about 4.5V to 5.5V based on the coil resistance then the engine will idle higher then 500rpm This is basically the simplest test to check for vacuum leaks by applying 5V to the valve via the two pins
Thank you again for the prompt response. Ahhh, I see now. I will try the 5v test on the ISCV. What should idle speed be on these V8's? I am currently adding a fuel stabiliser to mitigate the E10 fuel effects on the fuel system. But perhaps, as you mention, my fuel regulator may need attention to establish correct metering. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. Regards, Neil
Hi Neal, The idle speed at operating temperature (80C to 90C) should be 650rpm -50rpm to +100rpm in Neutral or Park and between 500rpm to 600rpm when in any gear other then P or N
Hi . I live in Southern California . I just changed the oil and currently have 10w30 . Should I keep it until the next oil change or change it out. What oil would you recommend for Southern California? Thanks
Per MB minimum 20W40 or 20W50 My 560 came from San Diego/LA - all my service records from Downtown LA Motors ( now MB of Los Angeles) show 20W50 Happy Thanksgiving Peter
Hello sir! Nice account. I have a high co issue with my ‘87 560SL. It runs ok, rpm is ok (after i replaced the fuse) but co exhaust fume is too high. Can you tell me what can cause this? Thanks.
@daytonasunset I would suggest to disconnect the connector on the EHA Valve, if there is no difference in co then the problem is between ecu, EHA and the associated wiring harness. If the co is going to get even worse, then check the mixture with the 3 mm Allen key
Hi Peter, I am looking for help again for my 1982 380SEC since our last conversation I purchased an IC valve from AutosensorBerlin Germany, who stated it was the correct one for my car I fitted it to the car and the engine continually surges I tried the air/fuel ration screw turning it in both directions to see if engine would Idle correctly now I dont know where the correct position should be I tried driving the car it had no power and tried to continually cut out I disconected the electrical plug and the engine soared to 1800 tickover but not surging is there any information you can offer because my biggest problem is in rural Ireland where I live there are no mechanics who are familiar with Mercedes veteran cars any help you can offer would be appreciated
Christian made a video on fixing his control unit (same as yours) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L82snxs-nNE.htmlsi=2Tpm-SjbqK4SRWZd Hopefully you can translate it
@johndempsey5448 Christian I believe shows it in his video for the 500SEL I do not know where this is located in R107 Check the front of the passenger footwell compartment
Hello ,just a small question . I have a pressure comes from pumps 6bar(too low for engine 117) , the pumps Bosch brand new , presure regulator , EHA brand new Bosch . Can I ajust presure higher on the presure regulator . (6,4bar )thank you
Ok, you have to make ring out of this strap. Cut it to the length you need to fit around the boot and add an inch or two so you can get it into the clamp. The strap should be good to make 2 or 3 clamps altogether
Hi Peter can you advise me as to where the Idle control module is situated on a 1982 380 SEC its not in the bulk head of the engine compartment so where else can it be located any info would be appreciated John
Very informative video and very helpful. Thank you very much!!....I recently bought my first Mercedes, a 1985 500 SEC, U.S. car, and it's mis-firing like crazy. These learning videos give me the confidence to try and fix the car myself.
Thanks Larry, but I don’t have a pointer. Since it is Christmas, feel free to send one; INOVA HIGHTECH Ltd 15115 Chestnut Street Basehor, KS 6607 I will sure use it in my next video and mention your name! Peter
@douglet2294 For a W126.039 it is number 158 MB# 1263010485 mb-teilekatalog.info/view_SubGroupAction.php?lang=G&mode=BM&class=1&aggtyp=FG&catalog=64Z&model=126039&group=30&subgrp=015 You may need additional parts depending on what’s missing In America you can omit the “A” in the actual MB partnmber when searching for a MB part Best place to buy original MB parts with best shipping rates: www.mbpartshaus.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-rubber-buffer-1263010485 Thanks for watching my videos Peter
@douglet2294 Please watch this video tutorial on how to locate MB parts ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4tfxgE1tZQ4.htmlsi=angLhKQHrTal-9rI Thanks Peter
thank you when that part gets worn out does it make the throttle linkage feel loose? my throttle dose not feel firm it just feels loose like i am able to pull it easly with little resistance@@inovahightechltd
I have a 1982 380 sec it has not been used much in the last 2 years due to covid restrictions now on startup it idles correctly when it gets warm it increases tick over to a very high rev do you think its the idle control valve that needs cleaning or can you suggest another fault i would appreciate any help you can give me,many thanks John
Thanks for your prompt reply to answer your questions 1 . revs increase from 9 thou to 18 thou 2 petrol is fresh 3 mileage 92500 Temp normal approx 70 degrees
Ok, 1800 Two most likely scenarios: 1. Idle Speed Control Valve gets stuck Disconnect two pin connector on ISCV when engine is at the highest idle rpm. Does engine idle rpm then goes even higher? If answer is yes, then you got several vacuum leaks If answer is no, then you probably got a sticky ISCV, malfunctioning Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or ECU or Idle Speed Control Unit The question would be when where sensors etc last replaced? For good measures, did you check the injector seats and seals?
Hello thank you for you tutoriel .I would like to ask you if can give me the reference part number for the rubber pipe for pressure regulator.I can’t find it in mercedes parts catalog.Thank you Boris
Bobo, there you go: MERCEDES-BENZ A 0000780281 - FITTING, HOSE F/ FUEL PRESSURE REG www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-mercedes-benz-parts/hose-fitting/0000780281/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8uOWBhDXARIsAOxKJ2ET8o_XVUIrpUaUmriIicEPPn_SCWj2Kp07_9rXnZXqVb4Fs71aBJAaAqThEALw_wcB
