That was such a boring video! (Sorry, somebody has to say it) Thanks... great introductory video for a newbie like me. Although a bit of "show and tell" with the tools out of the tool post would have been good. That Sherline boring tool is really great... I'd like to be able to get one of those but the import costs from The States are a bit "cor blimey"... I've been looking at parting blades for my Unimat SL (like an antique, European Sherline) and I'm now thinking that I might be able to use one of those rotated 90 degrees (maybe with a bit of a re-grind)
same here, that's why I was watching it, to learn. (I was given a sherline mill and lathe, and like to learn some 'simple' machining, especially the cnc kind)
I mean that depends on the material you're using though. It'd be tough to cover that topic on this videos. I guess he could have mentioned resources to find that information
noone ever talks about squring up to the hole or not so on. iam tryin to learn this stuff. anypone know of a better video on all the details needed to do a str8 hole
+shortdawg511 Tough question to answer... on the smaller and portable/lightweight end of the spectrum are the sherline 4000 and 4500, available in A B and C package options. I purchased mine from www.discountcampus.com/store/Sher_sep2.htm#lathes but shop around as prices can vary. On the cheaper end but heavier and arguably lower quality are "import" 7x10 or 12 lathes such as www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-10-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93212.html and www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-12-Mini-Metal-Lathe/G8688. Finally if cost isn't a concern and you want something better quality with larger capacity, look at www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=1271799306. Their 3540 lathe is a little big to be called "mini" and certainly isn't portable for most people, but offers full-size lathe options in a smaller package... this will likely be the next lathe I purchase.
Can you do an episode or two where you make a shotgun choke? That's what I'm trying to learn how to do. You can even sell it on eBay when your done it's a win win
+shortdawg511 Once I get to making project videos that should be fairly straight forward to make. You'd need a thread-cutting attaching and I'd recommend a 4-jaw chuck, with tubing the more the jaws the better to reduce chance of deforming the tube under clamping pressure. If you end up with a larger lathe, a 6-jaw chuck is really ideal for tubing for I've not seen one to fit the sherline or most other mini lathes. The difficult part is going to be heat-treating, as chokes are often made out of stainless steel which can be much harder for the home shop to heat treat.
I have a question about this: what's a good lubricant that will work for machining stainless steel AND preferably will come off easily during degreasing? And for degreasing, what's the best solvent for removing the lubricant? Because I need to cut a custom part on the lathe for a chemical setup which will involve BOTH corrosive chemicals and VERY high pressures, AND which requires high purity -- so it MUST be made from stainless steel for mechanical strength and corrosion resistance, AND it MUST have a surface free of any contamination (such as lubricants) before installation.
Never mind -- already finished all the machining needed for the project, and I used light cutting oil as the lubricant, and toluene/acetone-based brake cleaner (LOTS of it, so much that you could smell it from across the street from my plant) for degreasing!
+Jon Watte You are correct, the cutter will deflect slightly during most cuts. The other reason you can get a cut in both direction is surface finish... depending on feed speed of the cutter on one pass you can leave a rough finish almost like the beginnings of a screw thread, when feeding in the opposite direction the cutter will take these ridges down. These are the reasons that for final cuts you want to make a light cut and typically feed the cutter slowly.
+shortdawg511 Nearly any mini or full size lathe will work with 1" stock. All the Sherline models will clamp a 1" x 4" round bar without issues. Both the smaller Sherline 2.5" 3-jaw chuck and the larger Sherline 3.1" 3-jaw chuck will hold that size of a piece. The stock I'm using in this video is 1.125" or 1.25" if I remember correctly. The Sherline lathes without riser blocks can turn a 2.75" diameter round bar in the larger 3-jaw over the bed, over the carriage/cross-slide this is reduced to 1.75". All the 7" and 8" import lathes are larger capacity then the Sherline. If you want the stock to extend into/through the head then you are looking at a larger 10-12" machine in most cases.
+oostracing I'm not sure what is the "best oil", I use re-li-on for general purpose, tap magic for heavy and thread cutting, and WD-40/kerosene as a very thin choice on aluminum. I haven't experimented much with other oils, some people simply use motor oil/gear oil, and everyone has a preference. The above is for manual or drip applications, for flood/mist/mql then there are better choices. There are smokeless options, non-staining options, environmentally friendly bio-degradable options, food safe options, so many to choose from out there. Re-li-on is widely sold, relatively inexpensive, and a decent general use oil safe for most common materials.
