Indicating an Inside Hole and Boring on a Metal Lathe

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How I set up a four sided block in a four jaw chuck to re-bore a clean hole for new bronze bearings. This video discusses using a dial indicator with a hole attachment and getting everything running true in a four jaw chuck.
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Joel Hunger
2014-11-27

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14 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 22

@dougankrum3328 8 лет назад

Another thumbs up for you..an excellent mix, of part set-up, explaining your goals and machining....and....showing the reason the parts are often in the poor condition in the 1st place!!

@blackcardredletters 10 лет назад

Thank you Ive watched a lot of videos today trying to get this process down. i have higher grade tools so i was able to take what you showed me and apply them to the fullest.

@62346 10 лет назад

Thanks Keith; really enjoying your videos.

@Worksengineer 10 лет назад

Hi Keith Keep up the good work, excellent videos on sympathetic restoration, the guys that built these machines in the fist place probably had the same problems of not quite having the right tools for the job but they just got on with it, much the same as you are doing, must be frustrating at times, but highly satisfying when you see the machines working again. Best regards from the UK, and keep the videos coming, I can't wait to see what this machine looks like when its cutting wood!!

@phuzzz1 10 лет назад

Thanks for the video Keith, the reason I asked was because I recently had a similar situation, though I was boring it on the mill, it was a very corroded and somewhat out of round hole, you can see what I mean here John Deere Side Dump Bucket Repair Pt. 2 starting at about 3:08, and I had to just "feel" my way to a starting point, but I think it worked out OK. Thanks again for a great video.

@phuzzz1 10 лет назад

Thanks Keith, it's all done now, it is a 3 part video, finished it up about a week or so ago

@tom7601 10 лет назад

Occasionally, your videos get posted with very low audio levels and only left channel. On my iPad, I need to use headphones; it's no problem with my desktop since I use speakers. I love your videos when you're working on the old equipment. Keep 'em coming! Tom - Vista, CA

@donfoster1832 10 лет назад

Like most museums that don't have tons of money you do what you can with what you have or bring to the job. No fault there. Folks need to remember that with artifacts you have to balance historical preservation against functional restoration. That balance gnaws at me at the museum I volunteer at all the time. There's things I'd love to completely restore, but that would erase the historical story they tell. Thanks for your excellent videos.

@BigMjolnir 10 лет назад

Keith, nice job. I'm sure the guys who built that machine would be pleased with the care you are putting into restoring it. As I was watching it occurred to me that another way to do this might be to turn a shaft that will fit into the bore as it is, and then indicate that instead. It would tend to average out the minor divots and pits, and give you a fair idea of the true axis of the bore. Assuming you had material for such a shaft would that be a workable alternative, or am I missing something? I know there are many ways to accomplish any given task, I'm just wondering if I've figured out enough about machining to be coming up with any of them! Thanks for the lessons! -- Mike

@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc 10 лет назад

Thank you for another good video. I don't understand why you are setting up from the inside. I would have thought that the original raw casting set up was done from the outside as the bore in relation to it's mounting was the principal criterion. The actual bore being as inacurate as the original left by a core. Regards, Matthew

@apexprecitech 6 лет назад

Hello, the face that touches the anvil ball of the dial need not be spherical. as it has a fixed axis it can be flat. Just consider this.

@DrMatt96 8 лет назад

my left ear enjoyed this video

@VintageMachinery 8 лет назад

+Mootypotuty Yep, we had some audio issues in some of my earlier videos. Took care of that a long time ago but there are still a few videos out there with only one side of the audio. Sorry....

@kentuckycowboy2 10 лет назад

Howdy , Found my way here via tubalcain. I've noticed over the years that he sells off, trashes some of the stuff he doesn't want or might not be of his liking & not for him. I've come to think of him as a great guy just maybe he might cross paths with some tooling that would be of help to you in time . Just a thought .

@DavidKirtley 10 лет назад

Without a surface to pick up, are you really going to get much better than you had just setting with the tailstock center where you started?

@Mentorcase 10 лет назад

Exactly right.

@budhrseh2001 9 лет назад

Keith, by indicating from the 'egg shaped' inside diameter and taking an average to find center, are you not moving the center from it's original location? Why would you not indicate off of the outside diameter?

@VintageMachinery 9 лет назад

+budhrseh2001 I was trying to keep the new bore on center with the original bore so that I did not have to remove any more material than necessary to clean up the hole. Had this been a rough casting both inside and out, I would have indicated on the outside but since it had previously been machined I really wanted to get everything lined up with what was done before.

@motel29 8 лет назад

+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org Good question and Great answer. Thx

@miketims6877 5 лет назад

Would have been nice to actually see the dial indicator instead of a glare on the dial face!

@jerrypeal653 4 года назад

That was boring but it wasn’t.

@jonka1 7 лет назад

Sadly another example of your confusion disguised as an instructional video. Given that the bore is worn 20thou in one direction you should have aimed for rough equality side to side and 20thou difference top to bottom but you didn't do that. Then you pass off the obvious run out as unimportant because you can't work out how to deal with it.