Our Metal Roofing Installation Video demonstrates the installation of light gauge, exposed fastener, residential, agricultural, and commercial metal roofing.
For me, the ideas in ru-vid.comUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
This is the best comprehensive video on steel roofing I have seen! It very hard to find any guidance at all when I was roofing, I did nit all the details shown in this video but my roofs were guaranteed! Thank you!
Installing metal roofing is such a practical and long-lasting choice for a home! Those 3ft panels from ASC Building Products must give a sleek and modern look, and the durability of metal roofing means less worry about replacements or repairs for years to come. It's great to see people taking on these kinds of home improvement projects. Keep up the fantastic work! 🏡🔨✨
This video is excellent. It doesn't cover every scenario and doesn't cover standing seam roofing, but it is the best tutorial I've ever seen on doing exposed fastener metal roofing.
I use 2" screws and screw down on the rib. I go with the theory of build your home on a hill out of the water not in a valley where the water flows. Skip the mastic and use Lexel clear silicone!
On the drip edge you are supposed to notch the drip on the first piece that is installed, caulk that one then the next open the hem put it in position then roll it into place making it easier and you wont plow the caulking.
This made my head hurt. Not gonna lie. But this is my preferred roof of choice and I will be installing one soon. I'll just take my time and do it right.
Your video is absolutely fantastic ! Because of the fires in the California I don't want vents under the eve. Do you have a video showing a "Fire Proof" Roofing System for a HIP roof ? I will have a "Vulcan Vent" on the roof and a "Vulcan Vent" at ground to have "cross ventilation" in the attic. It's so sad to see all those people everywhere that lost their homes ! Have a great day ...
Because of the fires in the California I don't want vents under the eve. Do you have a video showing a "Fire Proof" Roofing System for a HIP roof ? I will have a "Vulcan Vent" on the roof and a "Vulcan Vent" at ground to have "cross ventilation" in the attic. It's so sad to see all those people everywhere that lost their homes !
The underlayment should be installed OVER the drip edge flashing at the eaves and under the drip edge flashing at the rake.... at least its code in the North to ensure water from ice damming doesn't flow between and rot the fascia board.
If possible I HIGHLY recommend installing these on top of 3/4” wood strips to maximize air ventilation under the metal. 👍👍 if there was a practical way to install solar panels on this roof vs standing seam I would use more of it but standing seam is much better for solar panel clamps.
How far apart would you put the woods strips? Wouldn’t you be worried about it caving in in the air gaps from snow or if you have to walk up on your roof?
@@w6p7a you’re supposed to do it every 24” I’ve seen some videos of people doing it 40” apart but that’s where the problem with snow weight and other factors would come in and cave in the metal. I wouldn’t recommend do in it more than 30” apart
I once bought a package from a lumber store that was special ordered. A deposit was paid but, it was not picked up. I just paid the difference. There was some pieces that I could not use but it was still worth buying at the reduced price.
In reply to Mak Flan, and to further describe points I made earlier: First, I daresay that if one hires a company to install a metal roof, most likely not a single worker in their crew has ever actually watched and learned all the details and countless steps shown here to properly install metal roofs. Instead, most workers are young and inexperienced, and most of them just "learn on the job" when a co-worker says something like "just snip and bend the ends in", because the more experienced worker does not know how it should be correctly done either. Even if an installer does know the more correct way to do something, almost all installers will take shocking shortcuts just to save time and effort, thinking correctly that "the homeowner will never know the difference". Only, here is the problem: the homeowner WILL find out the difference when future problems and leaks occur. And mark my word, roofing installers will never return to fix improper work. In my true experience they simply stop taking your calls. This video shows an amazing array of many dozens of fine points required to properly install. Typical roofers simply don't care to follow all these confusing instructions, and when they encounter various snags or problems they will usually just "work over it", meaning not correct the problem and just hide it quickly and move on. This usually has the effect of leaving lots of areas that will leak, especially during winds and storms, and may not be noticed early on. In my experience, most instances of flashing will not be handled correctly. I could now write a whole book about all the poor installation procedures and omissions I have realized that roofers did. Here is the point: almost all roofers are NOT particularly educated or consciencious in their workmanship. They simply want to make the big money and move on to the next job. Problems left and created by roofers are often not easily fixed. For example, I currently have some roof leaks and after months and even years of searching, have not been able to find a roofer willing to try to solve the leaks in a shingle roof. One very experienced roofer got on his ladder, climbed up, came down, and was unwilling to attempt the repair regardless of agreed price. Why? Because roof leaks are often not so easy to identify. Besides, "repairs" typically do not pay as well as installing a whole knew roof, and they want to make the "big, easy money". They usually seek to do only ranch house roofs: extremely easy roofs with no complications. I am sure the next time I get a new roof it will cost over $20,000, and I dread that day because I have been through that unpleasant experience before, and it seems that roofers often create more problems than they solve. And, I just know that installing metal roofs has much more room for error and improper methods than shingle roofs do. Either way, it is about impossible to luck up finding a qualified and diligent roofing team.
I was a professional roofer for over 25 years installing everything from large commercial systems to highly customized niche residential applications and everything in between. One of our many specialties was installing metal roofing and we not only had the knowledge, expertise, and skilled manpower to do the job from start to finish, but all of the necessary tools and equipment to fabricate from coil and flat stock every piece involved in the process. I had the pleasure to work with some of the best in the business and if one of our installs failed it would only have been the result of an F5 tornado or an airstrike. I can also tell you that if I was going to spend the money on a metal roof, I would much rather prefer to have a standing seam roof installed over this system due to the lack of exposed fasteners involved, which will all be future failure points on this roof. The rubber gaskets on these screws have a u.v. resistant coating embedded into them but even with proper torque when installed, they will only last so long. In 15 years or so, you would have to either replace every screw or clean, prep and spray the entire roof with an elastomeric coating to prevent the eventual leaks that would inevitably arise. You have to due your due diligence and like anything you get what you pay for, and quality isn't cheap. I personally cannot stand most salesmen as they know next to nothing about the product they are selling while promising you the moon in the pursuit of a fat commission. I would personally want to meet and speak directly with the owner of the company, see examples of his work, scope out his place of business, and see what type of ship he runs firsthand before I ever committed myself to a legally binding contract. Best of luck to you.
@@Sum-Ting-Wong71you seem to be telling us something important but it was quite long winding and I was lost. Can you please go directly to what is it you’re trying to say. Which is better and why 🙏
I just did it. It's not fun if you have any valleys that you have to cut angles on the sheets. You need a really good metal cutting blade. ( About $35 on Amazon) Otherwise it's the same install except the corners where the Hip meets the ridge of the roof.
Are the stitch screw in the high spots of the panels ,actually suppose to screw into the wood or do they just catch the metal roofing panels and poly closure?
I can not find a video that shows in detail how to properly close a metal valley when a lower ridge runs into the slope of a higher perpendicular ridge roof section. The mystery is how to seal the very top where the valleys intersect.
I’ve heard that that is fine. I can’t imagine. It makes much a difference, the only issue would be if you already had a roof sheathing issue that never got addressed and is now harder to repair
Yeah, it's fine to do that. Like Raven☝🏻said...As long as the sheathing underneath is structurally sound. It also depends on how many layers of shingles you're laying on top of though. The only time it's ever been a problem for me, is on really old homes. I've seen when there's been literally 5-6 layers of shingles ON TOP of the original wood shakes that were used in 1918 when the home was built!😳 It was 2" worth of shingles/shakes on top of the 3/4 x 6" plank they used back then, before plywood sheets were a thing.
. . . at time stamped 00.01.32 . . . is it really correct to fasten down the sheet between the ribs . . . I dare to say to fasten the sheet on the ribs to strongly avoid leaks even though you seal each screw fastener . . . what do you say?
Exceptional video, please clarify why you recommend screwing in the steel roof “valley” vice the “arch”. I have been told always the “arch” as screwing in the “valley” will cause leaks. I am in the Eastern Ontario, Canada area and we obviously get a fair chunk of snow. Looking forward to your answer. Thank you!
This diagram has you cut some metal off to fit inside the first piece of flashing,but then it says to put caulking on it, then slide it under the first piece! This is physically impossible to have the second peice slide under the first yet have the trimmed off peice fit inside the outside crimped edge! It would have to go on top of the first peice and caulking would be applied to the first peice of eves flashing! I was sold a system that costs me more,and another company just uses drip edge for the edging,same as for a shingles roof. The point is,if you watch different videos on how to install a steel roof,if your paying attention you should notice there's 2 ways to do it! A 3rd is just not bother with eves flashing and the hardware you don't need,as your evestrough covers most of the wood under the roof as well as metal or vinyl soffit put under the overhang !
1inch screws are never long enough should be 2or2@1/2 inches I have a friend with a pole garage over time freeze and thaw and wind worked the ends of the panels loose and caused leaks we replaced the screws with longer ones to fix the problem just a thought
We tore down a 70 yr old commercial chicken house having a metal "5 V groove" metal roof. It had the old metal roof nails...all placed at the top of the V grooves...not in the valleys. The wooden structure was in remarkably good condition with no rotting. Placing fasteners in valleys is a no-no. I am wondering if an air gap underneath of approximately 3/4" would help cooling of the roof?
@@terrymcguire8476 back when the washer wasn't neoprene this was a 100% right. Lots of manufacturers say on the flat (some say both) I personally do it on thr top
Has me stuffed why they say to screw the sheets down in the valley and not the peak, the rubber washer under the screw heads dont last for ever and always some get damaged while the screw is being screwed down.
Nothing is better than a roof riddled with screws and completely dependent on rubber washers, foan closures, and caulk tape. "Gee, why does my roof leak?!?"
Most definitely. I'm replying from Australia where we never screw through the tray or flat part of the sheet. It does not allow for expansion and contraction in the sheet and eventually the rubber washers give way and yes leak. Always screw through the rib. In all reality everything I see on so called metal roofing in the States is garbage. I confess there appears a lot to be desired in building practices in the US. Regards Stewart. 04-07-23
@@toast2437 That's because you haven't a clue about roofing or enough common sense to understand the correct procedures. It's not just my theory it's the theory of all major roofing manufacturers in Australia.
@@toast2437 Yeah Hi and thanks for your email. I can only suggest the theory of fixing through the ribs/crest of the sheet is to allow for expansion and contraction. Fixing through the pan does allow minimal expansion and contraction but this action wears the rubber washers away and creates leaks. Lysaghts possibly being the largest roofing manufacturer in the world have what they call "The Lysaghts Referee" which is a bible to all roofing products, fixtures etc. It's a small hand held type of dictionary and generally free from Lysaghts. Regards Stewart. 16-04-24
