A really good explanation. This explains a lot of what I saw in reverse engineering mine. Oddly I hooked power up to the turbo led out pins and it was working, but p+/- of course make more sense after seeing your vid. Also I had used the always on positions. Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks for this very useful and informative video. I am rebuilding my first PC from the mid 90's and it's missing the display (got removed) in the video with the one and two full digits. But i have now a working replacement, only that it has 3 full digits, is not controlled by jumpers but by a chip. Also has a changable battery on there, a small LR41 coincell battery. It will work in my case but i am wondering how to set up this thing to show thw correct MHZ??. It has 10 pins and they read from the left. LTHRR+-SST. PD 900 also on the board.
That was an awesome video. I always wondered how to set up these, great channel, by the way is it still possible to purchase these LCDs and add to the case?
I have an old case with this 188 display type. But the controller on the pcb ist damaged and so i soldered wires to all pins that i need to get 100MHz. Is there a source to bye this 188 displays? Until now i couldn´t find one and build a new display with an homebrew pcb and jumperrows like you showed.
The Turbo header on the motherboard is usually just 2 pins: turbo is either ON or OFF depending on whether it is sorted. The turbo switch is usually a 6-pin dual toggle-switch (3 + 3). One part of the switch goes to the MHz display and the other (just 2 pins out of 3 pins) connect to the motherboard header. So when you press the turbo switch you notify both the motherboard and the dipslay.
The MHz display is not actually connected to the motherboard. The only thing you need to connect to the motherboard is the Turbo cable, which is connected directly to the Turbo switch.
