Michelin Starcross 6 Motocross Tire Testing at Perris Raceway 

yes please do a tire shootout

Hoosier tires have only gotten better. They have 3 compounds ordered by durability (IMX20 is race, 25 is a compromise, and 30 is the most durable). They also have the "S" version of the fronts now with a stiff sidewall for better cornering grip. I find that tire preference is very subjective. Most guys would say that Dunlop MX33's are great. I personally hate them. I do like the mx3s front, though. I would 100% suggest getting a set of Hoosiers. The front feels very similar to a Dunlop MX3s, and the rear feels a lot like a Pirelli MX32. But treat them as if they are racing tires, if you change them as often as they need to be, they get very spendy.

@RollyPollyRaviolli I hate Dunlop Tires. My 2010 Service Honda CR500AF eats them for breakfast. I call them Dumblop Tires. I do like the new Tusk EMEX T-35 tires. But, no tire I have used ever out performed the Hoosier IMX25. As far as the tires Hoosier offers. I feel the only change needed is to the Rear. Not the compounds but ,the rear center lugs is to small. It needs to span across the. Enter of the tire more. Not thicker but, longer from edge to edge.

@@dennismillus4581 Center knob width is a tradeoff. You may experience more forward bite with a wider center knob, but it also flattens the profile of the tire and makes it less agile and affects cornering similar to running a 120/80 vs a 110/90. Wide center knobs have the tendency to stand the bike up when you're hard on the throttle or rear brake. Smaller center knobs also allow the tire to "sink" a little more into the dirt with a rounder profile. I generally run Bridgestones. Oddly enough, I absolutely HATE the x20 rear, though I like both the x30 and even the x10 rear (and the new x31 is ohhhhh so good), precisely because I feel that they corner smoother with less tendency to stand up or climb out of ruts than the x20 with it's super wide center knobs

@@rollypollyraviolli4474 thank you for your reply. I can honestly say I never looked at it like that. Now I understand it better. Thank you for correcting me as well as making me upstanding it better.

Stick with the starcross 5 mate 🙈

@@929jeremy Why is that they chunk.

for one thing, the edge isnt what provides grip generally the carcous goes away before the knob does - and thats the loss of grip. the knobs actually lay flat bent when contacting ground, the edge is then parallel with the ground…

@@HPRaceDevelopment I'm a visual person so I'm trying to visualize what you're saying and it just doesn't sound quite right. First off, are you saying the carcass breaks down before the knobs do? With respect, I've never seen that and every worn tire I've seen shows knobs that are severely worn down. Secondly, you're saying that the whole knob, in a sense, is getting pushed so hard that it starts to lay flat? I'm also guessing you aren't saying that a new tire edge isn't important, or else manufacturers would be making tires with rolled edges.

@@themotobarn702 Yeah I agree with you man. I think it is obvious that the edge is like how you say. But, I am open ears/eyes, so HP RD please explain

@@themotobarn702 Go talk to an actual tire development guy, like I have - and see what they have to say. The casing on a tire gets extremely soft very quickly on performance tires. In less than 5 hours - how "flexy" a sidewall and carcass are is half that of when new. We might even have a youtube video in progress about this topic - combine with interviews from tire guys in the industry. You can go sharpen the edge of any knob easily - it will NOT return the performance even remotely close to a new tire. Front tires are the best example, and most overlooked and should be replaced as frequently or MORE frequently for front steer guys than rear tires. You only care about the forward driving edge on your tire because its' the wear you "see". But the wear you care about is the turning and braking traction...yet the side of knobs hardly ever wear or loose their edge. And yet the turning and breaking traction goes away...hmmmmmm Tire carcass wear IS what wears you just have never thought about it. When you plant your tire under load - the knobbies fold back and the leading "edge" lies flat with the ground. It flexes down and back into the tire. Next old tire you remove - push down on your new tire not installed yet - and the old take off - and flex the tire in your hands new vs old. Before you remove the old tire, take your hand and grab to opposite knobbies on left and right of tire and pinch/pull then together at your normal riding psi. Then after new tire installed do same. It will be OBVIOUS the flex difference. This is what you feel in degradation of performance. Do you really think the "sharp" knob is what provides drive and that is stays upright in "unloaded" position while you ride?

@@HPRaceDevelopment thanks for the info

This is the question I'd like to know

How did it go?