As someone whos finally getting a first 1/24 chassis (Drift Art 3) and comes from a few years of semi competitive 1/10th RC drifting this video helped me describe a few adjustments with better detail to anyone I help in the future regarding tuning. The explanation on castor with the coin reference was amazingly told. This was an incredibly helpful video, thank you for the knowledge!
Excellent information! Great info and many tips I have picked up elsewhere finally got explained in a way that makes sense to an engineer. Thanks so much for making this video!
I needed 3 nights to watch the entire video in sections just so that I could digest it and remember what information was being conveyed. :) Even though I exclusively drift a mini-z ma-020, this video still gave me HUGE insight into understanding the subtleties and the tuning to adjust the vehicular behaviors as well as knowing how to rectify them. A great and informative video over all, clear and easy to understand!
Great video bro, thanks. It felt like I was taking a micro drift tuning class. Super easy to follow and very clear. The analogy’s you used help understand a lot too, great video man. Helped a noob out. Really starting to give up on this hobbies but this helped out a bunch. I’m what you call a “pandemic drifter” lol so this really helped
The start of this is so real… lol I just went through all those feelings and emotions! I actually listed my DRZ V2 for sale I was so pissed but finally really sat down and went to work on it and got it running great now!
Salam ya Akhi. Habibi, I can’t thank you enough for this video. I’m brand new to drifting and your video helped me diagnose and fix my drifter set up in one night. You provided me concise information to really help me understand the concepts. Inshalla I get to connect with you outside RU-vid. Thanks again and please let me know if there is a way to connect with you. Thank you again.
Im coming from racing offroad 1/10 scale buggy, and now playing with these mini drift cars and i thought it's pretty easy from my experience driving it. Set ups is my main problem to make it better.😂
What a great video! thank you for taking the time to detail all the steps to set up our cars. Ive had a Drz v1 for years (totally standard as cant find anywhere that sells the BMracing front end) could you advise how/where you purchased the bent/angled steering arms?
Thanks, Start 0 caster all around with parallel Ackerman and max caster. If you get front wheel left then reduce caster till it's gone. If you have too much rear traction (meaning it's hard to initiate the drift on low speed because of high grip) then add rear camber and try again, slight adjustment at a time, too much rear camber= very low rear traction= difficultly in controlling you slides. If it's easy to initiate the slight but hard to control without spinning out the you have 3 adjustments to make: 1- Ackerman at full lock, parraral is my favorite, but you need a car that has a full steering lock (meaning both the front wheel can turn to almost 90 degrees while maintaining parallel Ackerman). Some cars can't do that, in that case you need a positive Ackerman (toe out) which at full lock translates to your leading wheel turn to 90 degrees but trailing wheel slightly less than that. 2- front camber, 0 degrees give you more front grip/traction, the more camber you add the more traction you lose. 3- gyro adjustment, don't go above 60%, (40%) is my sweet spot. All of this is subjective to you chassis, tires, surface and drifting skill, Keep tinkering till you get the feel of sliding on rails. Enjoy
Great video! Now I believe again that I can make this work. Just started and was very disappointed with my GLD. I now recognize it's me, not the car. Still, can you give any advice which hopup parts I totally need to get? Thank you again!
Beautiful video thanks for the time! Curious where you get the little tuning board and small tuning measuring tools? Can't wait to put this video into practice with my new chassis :)
wow dude you have truly taught me alot!! where did you get all your parts for your xrx ?when you drift it holds so well it dont even look real best drifter i have ever saw out of all scales where can i get rotor and brake caliper things are them just like spacers ?/
Tune your car well, keep practicing and you’ll get there. Here is the link to the brake disks 👇 Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $4.36 10％ Off | Metal Upgrade Modified Brake Disc For ZERO-Z Jingshang MINI-Z MINI-Q8 MINI-Q9 MA020 MA030 FWD AWD 1/28 RC Car Parts a.aliexpress.com/_mqOIW3o
Theres so much content that you could cover with tuning different chassis. I would watch them all if you have make em 😆 Ps. I hope you’ll do a video about driftart2 since I have my eyes on that chassis. 😂 Edit: OMG LOOK AT THAT XRX CRABWALK TO THE MOON THATS INSANE!!!
Great information shared. Much appreciated. Use to drift AWD touring TB02 and TT01 up to when RWD and FRD conversion kits stared coming out. Disconnected the front diff on my TB02 but of course it doesn't have enough caster or steering angle to CS drift. Bought a D-Max just before the MST FXX came out and still haven't ran it once. Just picked up a MST FXX 2.0 and collecting parts for it. I like like the FRD chassis for scale realism so i also picked up a BMR-X S and collecting parts for it too. Really looking forward to getting back into drifting. Have been running 1/18 and 1/24 trail and crawler trucks that if you wish you can view on my channel. Now here in Canada i'm finding it difficult to find parts for the FXX 2.0 and the BMR-X. RCmart and Atees has most of the parts but are always out of stock and it's months at a time to be restocked. Do you or anyone else reading this comment have any other online rc store suggestions that i could check out that i may not know about? Also is it absolutely necessary to run a gyro for drifting. I going to say that i feel that running a gyro is cheating. I hope that doesn't trigger peeps. I guess i'll find out soon enough.
- the nearest bmrx dealer to you is Mikos from Facebook group Driftaholics (USA), otherwise you can contact Chan from Facebook group (ChanRC) and he will get you anything you need straight from China through DHL express to you. - regarding if gyro usage is considered cheating....well, that topic has been debated all the time. Think about it this way..... if you make a U turn with a real car do you have to steer you wheels back to neutral? Or just let go of the steering wheel at the apex of the turn and it will automatically goes to neutral? Gyros never meant to drive the rc car for you. It’s just used to initially start the counter steer for you since it’s much more faster than anyone’s response, just for the first milliseconds and then you’ll have to physically countersteer and hold the angle. Sure in power sliding (awd) gyro is not necessary, but rwd without a gyro 🤦🏽. Even in pro drift tournaments gyros are used.
Pom as a material is my favorite and much smoother than Ds racing lf-5 imo. If you run front camber 3 degrees or more then you have to get rounded tires so as not to lose front traction. That’s why rounded tires are called cg (constant grip) tires.
Which chassis would you recommend? I have alot of prior rc experience BUT NOT in rc Drifting. I have driven mini-z AWD, but that is very different. I did buy a HGD1 chassis but found it to be quite a pain in setting up. Perhaps it's me and I need alot more experience in RWD Drifting. But if I am to look for a better chassis I would like to know which way to go. I have looked at the TS Racing, DRZ2 and the Drift-art 2.5. They appear to be good chassis, but want something I can grow with, but isn't too complicated while learning such that I would become bored with it and give up.
I gave up on drz. Art2 is highly praised, but I don’t like their marketing strategy. You’ll have to get a lot of upgrades which will eventually push the price over 500$. Trc2 is my favorite, but it’s complicated and over engineered,plus it’s out of stock and the company is out of business now, so even if you manage to get a used one…don’t. Xrx is beautiful and performs well without much upgrades, but it’s outdated as of now. The best stock/beginner friendly yet very capable chassis is DK. My Dkmk2 performed 100% without any upgrades and zero tuning. My advise: 1- get a modified k989 from mj rc shop. Or 2- wait for dkmk3 release. I’d go for the dk if I were you.
Am using trc2 medium springs which is no more available in the market. Go for dkmk2 spring set. You can buy a set of art2 springs for cheap, but it’s 4mm diameter unlike xrx which are 5mm. You’ll need to rewrap them around a 5mm drill bet, heat them then quench them in water.
Thank you sir for your insights and efforts in furthering our knowledge. U think the 1/10 scale is elite, boy o boy the micro drift scene is full of snobbery. Right off the bat knew I could trust your opinions, self reflection, the biggest measure of a person's character and a huge part of drifting. One question still left though. Your thoughts on wheelbase? At this scale I am not concerned of size proportionally just what is the most enjoyable. I mean common knowledge shorter wb less room forgiving, but is it worth a transition of platform?
Yes. 1/10 is the way to go. If you have enough space at home go for 1/10. It’s easier to work with, has way better quality control compared to micros and will cost you relatively the same price of high end micro chassis. The only benefit of having a micro chassis is the ability to drift in a small space, but still it has to be the correct surface (tiles or any slippery and leveled surface). Wb…..my preferred size is 98mm to 104mm. Generally the longer and wider the better it handles. Most importantly if you don’t like tinkering with small parts….stay away from micros.
@@mohamedfarah22 Thank you brother. No problem with micros, coming from micro drone hobby it's actually a sigh of relief. I am starting from modified k989 at 102mm and have found a sweet spot. Again driving time greatly improved skill more than anything. Scored a nice deal on drz v2 over this weekend so we shall see how a short wheelbase reacts. Think I may have fallen down the rabbit hole 🐇. Again thanks for your insights sir.
Hi man, what do I do on the xrx if when I go to full lock on the radio and then I release the wheel the servo goes to the middle but it doesn’t bring the wheels to the middle
You mean your steering doesn’t center? Well….if you have stock servo then upgrade to a11cls servo (it’s a must have). If your servo is already upgraded then try: 1- take the servo off the chassis and center it then install the servo horn. 2- adjust your steering links so as they are centered with the new horn position. 3- final adjustments with your radio sub trim. 4- if all that failed….double check your steering sliding rake. Make sure no slop and no binding exist.
Hi im super new to this hobby i got myself a K969 few months back now im looking for an upgrade can you suggest me any rwd chasis that is good for a beginner and i have a maximum budget of 350 dollars
Hi, 350 is enough to get a hi end chassis. I suggest you join out fb group (ChanRC) and do some research before deciding what to get. Xrx, drz2, bmrx, art2 are the major chassis available for purchase at the moment. Also Dk, bnd and another major company are coming with new chassis soon and both looks promising. The absolute cheapest rwd drifter you can is a modified k989 from mj rc shop. Stay away from Ht1 and gld.
Brilliant explanation 🖤!!, but still as a noob to this hobby, I’ve got some questions of art2 of mine about spring stiffness and spring tensioner, the chassis was not parallel to the ground between left and right (when all my suspension geometry are symmetrical including same spring’s tensioner level and stiffness), due to unequal weights distribution I assumed, which choice do I have in order to adjusting the ride hight to be parallel. Should I use different stiffness of springs between left and right or it’s better to adjusting spring tensioner to get the parallelism of hight between left and right side.
Depending on the wheel base. You need to know the wheel base of you chassis (94mm, 98mm, 102mm or if it's adjustable), body wb needs to match chassis wb. Also you need to know how wide is the body, so you can get the appropriate wheel offset (just like real cars).
man thats actually an amazing video, i recently got into micro drifting with a driftart 2 and i m having huge trouble to do anything meaningful xD the car spins out most of the times and it feels like i don t have any control about the tail at all. tight donuts are impossible only longer drift are managable sometimes but seem to be very luck depended.i m pretty sure its not the chassis its mostly me. maybe the wheels ? i m running on polished wooden floor ( with quite some bumps ) so the lf1 tires from ds racing might not be the best :
No, LF1 is is for awd, horrible for rwd. My advise is to use Pom rounded 20mm or better yet a set of 22mm low profile tires (just like in th vid). They are the smoothest in the market as of now. Micro drifters are so twitchy compared to 1/10, follow the video and keep practicing, you’ll get there eventually.
If u have the option adding an exponential curve instead of linear throttle is a huge help. Even just limiting max throttle to 50% will help greatly with finding the break point of your setups traction. I find that I am hardly ever leaving the 20-30% range after fully dialing in what I can and getting comfortable. Just a 10% window you'll ever really be in so pointless wasting precision for a throttle range you will never use in this scenario.
@@mohamedfarah22 Hi Mohamed, can you give us a link for the tires ? I use LF4 for now but interested in better tires. A big thank to you, your video is amazing, full of really helpful informations and it helps me tuning my DriftArt 2.5 I just built this Christmas (after an atomic AMZ, so DA2 is my 1rst real drift car). I just have a problem with it, it has parallel ackerman on one side and drift really well (a real pleasure to drift with it !), but on the other side I found out it has negative ackerman and it spins out really quick, almost impossible for me to control it.
Unfortunately I gave away my drz long time ago and I don’t remember exactly how it was setup. However I used the same steps in this video to set it up. Just take your time, adjust one thing at a time and you’ll finally tune it the way you like.
