Excellent video! You covered everything i needed to know to repair my own arms! Especially the model of the diode as mine had been cooked by a lightning strike.
I know that making a video like this is a lot of work. And I know you are not making much, if any, monitary return. So I just want to make sure you know how much it is appreciated. I am a heavy DIYer and in the past I had to figure things out like this with virgin eyes. Having your knowledge from this video in my head before starting feels like cheating. It helps so much it turns a dreaded job into a fun project. Thank you, and well done.
I gotta say....this is one of the best fixit videos I've ever seen on here. He doesn't waste your time and is very detailed. I actually learned some things watching this!
Thank you so much for your time, mighty mule really sucks now. Have a 2 year old system arm stopped working. Sat on hold by my gate for ever only to have them say, sorry you have to buy a complete new system now. Was going to throw the whole thing in the trash. Then i found this video. back up and running Thank you sir and God Bless
Agree with your opinion of MM's current customer service and parts availability. I called last week to ask about cost of one of the circuit boards which I guessed had been burnt out by a lightning strike. "Since it is soldered on, we do not offer a replacement. Buy a new unit." Mine sat idle for 4 years and was full of ants. With this video, I was able to clean it up and working fine now.
Lots of valuable information.I am was troubled shooting not knowing what I was doing getting ready to by a new set up for 1k but decided to order 30 bucks worth of parts and try fixing it first . Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
The best DIY video I have seen yet. Thank you so much! Great camera work, editing, sound, and attention to detail without wasting our time. I called Mighty Mule and they told me they do not sell the motors and I would have to get a whole new unit. Without your detailed video I never would have attempted buying a motor from elsewhere and installing it myself. My Hero!
Thanks for the great video - concise, clear, and great attention to detail - down to the chemicals used. Thank you! I've got an older model of Mighty Mule opener, and it's too slow for my liking. I've got it attached to a very light gate, and I've often thought of replacing the motor with a motor that has higher RPM's. I never took any measurements, but when I had it apart, I thought he motor was a 750 size, not 550... but you're inspiring me to double-check and order a faster motor the next time I have it apart. Thanks!
I was so happy to try this, but was terribly disappointed. MM cross threaded one of the bolts for the bearing housing, which then broke. And then the bearing appears to be pressed on. I'm glad this fix worked for so many people. Keep up the good work, because this is a very good how-to.
Wow. Great video. Thank you. I changed my motor using your video. I took two short cuts; 1) I bought a motor with gear and capacity. Had to solder cap, and old wires but was easy, 2) I didn't take the linear / shaft apart at the Counter/wheel end, I was able to take the gear box apart on the shaft, exchange motors and reassemble.I had to wait 5 days to get motor. It cost me $65.00 with shipping and tax, and came with gear on it.Considering what someone would have charged me I am OK with a $65 dollar cost and my FREE labor :)I ordered motor through amazon, and got a perfect replacement. The one on ebay has a different motor gear?? and...….costs more.Thank you for video .semper fi
I’m going to attempt this, mighty mule help wanted me to buy a new circuit board but I found 2 holes in their trouble shooting theory, and have now ventured out on my own to fix my FM 502 arm. Thank you.
very informative didn't know that there was that much to do.. i have 4 351 s now that im wanting to repair and i have the motor one thing you kept on saying that they would be good for 10 years I wish two years for me for some reason i believe that i just hope that they are all motor problems thanks again
I have a 2000 xls, ours isint working correctly. One will close and one wants to open. I changed the board in the left gate arm. It’s set to open inwards. That didn’t fix the issue, support said it’s the arm board, we changed that and it didn’t fix the issue. Last option is the whole board, only problem is they may not be returnable, and it’s about 120-250$
I'm sure you tried this already as it's the obvious first thing to check, but did you try switching the motor/s polarity around to see what affect that has? Over and above that - no idea.
I just finished repairing my FM500. It had a good 16 year run. The repaired unit works fine but the auxiliary lock releases before the gate opens but does not release after the gate opens. The result is that on closing, the latch does not catch and I assume it is still drawing current. I lubricated it and it worked perfectly before the motor was replaced. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Wow excellent video! Great job explains the whole process! I do have one question. What’s the best way to get the back of the motor off. I know you said grind the tabs off. If so with what? Mine seems very intact
Good video I am in the process of doing mine right now I have a 35t motor on hand out of rc crawler probably be a bit slower just was unsure on a couple things and you cleared them all up I appreciate it
Going by the original definition of "Handsome", Your a man with Some constructive Hands. Which makes you a true "Handsome man"... Thanks for the info...
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you so much. I replaced it following your video. I've got a Mighty Mule motor from Amazon and it works, meaning that it opens and closes, except that every time it closes, when the stopping mechanism presses the stop switch, the fuse for that arm blows up. I tested it by pressing the stop switch with my finger before the stopping mechanism does it and it works ok. At this point I'm assuming that I will need to solder the diode which is not present in the old GTO system that I have. I ordered it. I will greatly appreciate your input on this issue.
I have an MM260 Might Mule. Front mount came off. Looks like some sort of a plastic type of where it screws into the front of the motor and then a screw with bolt to hold it in place. Unable to find a replacement part. will I have to buy a whole arm?
Super video. Clear commentary and great camera work. Thanks for taking the trouble. What amazes me is how slow my MM 271 is (light-duty, single gate). My gate is under 80 pounds. It is just 4' wide. And each cycle takes 18 seconds (not that this is without soft start/stop like yours has). Yours is significantly and noticeably faster (obviously tip speed will be faster on much wider gates, but the entire time is obviously shorter). I wonder if there's a compelling way to speed mine up. Safety isn't a concern even if it were 2x as fast. But then I'd REALLY need soft start/stop.... which of course my controller doesn't offer.
@Darell Dickey - Thanks for the comment. As for speed, you could likely get a faster motor (the 21T option for example) but I really don't know how much of a difference that would make seeing there is a fair amount of gear reduction in the gear box. What would have a bigger impact would be the actuator arm geometry and overall arm travel distance. The only way I could get the actuator arms to fit on ours between the stone pillars and gate was to have a sharp/tight arm angle on the pillar sides. This reduces the travel length of the actuator to swing the gate 90 degrees, so mine are not moving their full travel extension distance (I would guess about 70-75% of the full travel). Of course with sharper arm geometry along with less overall travel, the mechanical advantage (opening & closing force) is also reduced. Gain speed = lose force & vise-versa. These gates like your are fairly light so a little less force is not an issue.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John. Well, that all makes sense then. You've got about a 25% advantage on my speed, and now I'm sure it is all due to geometry. I've been considering some sort of mechanical (dis)advantage to speed it up. And make no mistake, I have WAAAAY more force than I need. 80-pound gate on ball-bearing hinges. The main reason I put the actuator on the gate was to keep it from slamming with the most gentle of breezes. Even when I let go of it for just a moment to get my bicycle or rolling bins through.... SLAM. Or a friend comes over and leaves it ajar... slam! A toddler can operate this thing without issue. I could lose 75% of my force and not have a concern. My stall force is at zero, and it is still too high for my liking. I again appreciate your help and insight Darell, (RC driving champion from way back when there was nothing "prebuilt." :-)
Best gate motor video I've seen . I have fixed a few and this taught me even more-BUT, The RC guys are saying 29 turns does not mean what it used to due to the internal 29 turns being a much thinner wire in the 550 cheap motors.I noticed your original motor had somewhat thick looking wire. Please address this and advise--Thank you
Motor design physics is a much too deep rabbit hole to venture down in a YT comment box and I'm not qualified to explain it. There are many brushed DC motor forums and physics sites that have pages upon pages going into all the details along with all the math required to explain it all. The basic and generalized ten thousand foot view as offered in this video is you are generally adequately served by getting a replacement motor with the same number of turns. This should result in the gauge being similar given the same amount of space within the armature, the current handling/heat dissipation being about the same, the back EMF (KV) will be about the same and the speed & torque will be about the same. Key word there is "about". This generalization is of course not the end all be all, but in a non critical application such as a low cost gate opener, it more often than not gets you close to something that will work adequately. These are not high performance racing motors after all with tight specifications of turns and specific gauge to operate within a narrow window of voltage, current, power to produce the correct range of RPM & torque in a specific application at a peak efficiency level; these are low cost utility motors. By the way, those replacement motors I got by the look of the wire gauge inside were very close to if not the same as the OE motors so I never observed this "much thinner" wire issue.
Depends what motor is in their now (generally the less number of "turns" the faster the motor and lower the torque). 29T motors were stock in my MM linear actuators, so I made sure to replace them with 29T motors because I didn't want lower the torque or perhaps introduce an unknown since I don't know if the processor in the control board wants to see a specific RPM range or not from the speed sensor in each linear actuator. Doubtful it would matter, but I didn't want to chance it 🙂
Great video! Very informative. Do you think it would work the same for an mm572w? The gate is actually a huge POS! Warranty has replaced EVERY SINGLE PIECE EXCEPT THE BATTERY! (both arms, control box, battery wires, antenna... even the fuses! Bought it April 6th, 2021, installed it April 24th 2021. Waiting on parts took about 9 months of my warranty away! I received the last part, which was the second arm 2/15/22...at that time, my gate had worked a total of 47 days...the downtime waiting on parts was 248! Needless to say...I know this lemon is going to go out again, that is why I asked my question. BTW, I also bought the mm gate lock, a wireless keypad, and 2 pin locks, when I purchased the opener. I paid $1108 for everything. The gate lock quit working within a month and had to be replaced. The replacement worked even less time! I'm replacing it with a different brand!
Thanks for the view. Sorry, no idea on replacement gear sets for these things other than reaching out to one of the many custom gear manufacturers such as Rush Gears. As far as I know, Mighty Mule/GTO don't sell gears separately. You could of course always contact them in the off chance they do have gear sets, or know of another source.
John I have the Mighty Mule MM462 dual operators. One is making a very loud screeching noise. The MMule tech states it is probably the motor going out. However, they do not have a replacement motor at Mighty Mule, but you have to purchase a completely new MM272 kit for over $600. Says they do not just sell a replacement motor for that unit due to software changes. Ridiculous and I don't believe one can not purchase a replacement motor. Your video is very good, but I am confused over purchasing the correct replacement motor. Amazon shows one specifically for MM462 replacement, but their ad is also confusing as it does not show a price next to the item. Could you help me with knowing the correct motor? I am not sure I understand the part about the correct speed. The Amazon ad states it includes the diode. Thanks for your help.
I would not presume it's the motor without doing a proper diagnostic inspection of the linear actuator unit. Mine for example also made a loud screeching noise when cold long before the motor failed and it was due to a spinning shaft bushing - not the motor at all. Could also be a dry slider or worm gear/bushing. Perhaps something in the gear box itself; lots of items in these things that can cause loud screeching. If the motor is the component making the noise however, then oiling the motor shaft at both bushing ends usually curs it. Might be a short term fix or might last for years. I can't say what specific motor is in yours since it's a different model. I would presume it's a standard DC RS550 motor, but again, until you open it and check, you won't know for sure. Yep, the software line is BS.
@@Rchelicopterfun This is very helpful and I will definitely explore these recommendations first. I do remember the noise appeared first and more often in cold weather, but now in Baton Rouge, La. it's very hot. I also mentioned grease to the Mighty Mule technician, but he did not suggest lubrication except external with silicone. I have done that routinely every month since the purchase some years ago. Again thanks for a very helpful video and response to my question.
Weelye universal 550 15000 rpm electric motor 12v from Amazon- $13.58 Had to cut @ 3/8 in from shaft length. reused pinion gear, resoldered wires to new motor. Heat the 13mm case bolts real good or they will snap off. 18000 rpm motor moves the arm a little quicker
Just an FYI, you dont need to cut down the shaft, just press the gear on to the same location with respect to the motor as the old one, the extra shaft sticking up doesnt effect anything
Is there a way to find out which motor I have in mine? The writing got rubbed off it's for the M.M. 200 it looks the same as the one you have haven't gotten it all the way down to check # turns yet great video!
They all use the same motor to the best of my knowledge. Of course, measure your motor to confirm it's the same size as all RS550 motors & if you really want to dive into it, count the windings on the armature like I did in the video with mine.
The lower the turn count, the faster the motor turns but the lower the torque. Personally, I wouldn't risk it. If the control unit sees the output wheel spinning faster and drawing more current (less resistance in a lower turn motor), it may fault a code, or perhaps overload the mosfet? I honestly don't know, but there was a reason I stressed on finding the correct turn count when source non-OEM RS550 motors.
Great video, what rpm was that motor you replaced, and would a faster rpm work to open the gate faster? I saw the motors you bought that had 29T on them, what does that mean? Mine is giving me one beep every two seconds, so it looks like I will be going into the bottom half. Thanks
I clearly explain in the video what the number of turns (T) represents and why it's important to get the same number of turns motor when replacing. No idea on RPM since that is a function of voltage as much as motor type. I never took an RPM reading nor is there any need to. Get the same type/#of turns motor and it will operate as designed.
I've never had to replace the end limit micro switches on mine (yet), but they are just standard microswitches that shouldn't be hard to find at any electronics parts outlet.
I gave all the information in the video on what to confirm on the 550 motor including dimensions and number of turns of the windings. If the motor/s you are looking at have the same specs as what you are replacing, then it should work.
Great video! Loaded with useful info in electronics beyond the gate opener motor. I have some questions id like to ask you. About electronics pertaining to cordless drill batteries. been watching RU-vid videos for forever is the first time I've posted a comment or tried to contact anyone so I'm not for sure if I do it here or if there's a p.m. box that I do this through or whatever you please let me know what the best way to contact you it would be highly appreciated. Robert
Thanks I missed it I was moving around . I tvwas real informative . I didn't realize you could buy them with different windings. I found a motor with a solid shaft.
I also purchased the D1RC 29T, and the red wire ended up going to the pole with the red dot. To determine if the motor is wired correctly, at first start up, the motor should retract the arm and stop when the arm makes contact with the limit switch. This is considered the "home" position.
Opening speed was the same because I chose the same type of motor. A brushless motor would require a brushless controller and converter circuit. Lots of experimentation involved to get all that to work the stock system.
So far so good. Loctite 648 retaining compound is good stuff. I've used it in much higher demand applications and it's amazing what shaft holding strength it achieves.
What you show here is NOT a true representation of removal of that bracket; the bolts were WAY!! harder to remove. Other than that thank you, excellent video!