Yes it is possible as the oil gallery is there however the machining required to add them would most likely outweigh changing the block over to a W11 and start with a base engine that has what you need from the beginning There may also be issues with the pistons off the W10 engine as I can't recall if they have the skirt notch to miss them. Do the right thing either change the block over to a W11 or the whole car though I know lots of people start with a cooper and want to keep that car. if that is the case and you are chasing power, get an S engine, gearbox etc and run that
Hi. I don't have them to hand but if you were to pop over to orranje performance there is only 1 set of k1's for the r53 and the same with the STD size pistons
I have done it both ways. This time I used the old bolts to torque up and new fitted. This is my normal manor, either way you look at it there would be questions ie original bolts stretched, new bolts stretching etc.
@@DoubbleAgent Unfortunately this is one of the Internets do's and don'ts ~ Yeah for sure all stretch bolts should be replaced on a rebuild and I think we agree on this but then what about when tolerancing an engine? Clearly using a new set of bolts each time to tolerance gets very expensive and very quickly ie my beetle engine took about 7 attempts to set the tolerances and a new set of bolts would be very expensive. Then look at the ARP bolts which they state can be re-used. If the bolts were pulled past their yield point then yes there is an issue, if it is within its yield then it may retard back to its original form and allow to be re-stretched although the torque is relatively low on these I would question how far up the yield it is actually going. This here is what you will probably not know, the material composition of your fixings vs their yield at the point of full specified torque. Read newtis.info My advice is; use the original bolts to achieve the clamp force to tolerance and then once set change to your new bolts. The specific was that the mini engine is build is much nicer being in 1 large piece over several caps means loading is not quite but more shared. At the end you probably will still have lots of questions, ultimately the ARP side will leave more questions - so we have to assume that the ARP fixing composition is so good they can be reused and thus assume the material grade is better and we do not go so high into the plasticity following their torque procedure - then sit down and ask how different OEM fixings are? especially as an engine with ARP fixings will probably take more short term abuse and the stock engine will do years of abuse. Finishing off - this is all down to the material grade which I do not know so it would not be possible to work out the ability to re-use and for this I think if you follow the above advice that would be your best shot
Nice work, I would love to rebuild my engine, but I don’t think I have enough knowledge! By the way is there a gasket between the main casing and the lower casing? I had my clutch done by my local garage and they said that is were my oil leak is coming from
Hi, there is no gasket. It's a liquid sealant. I use welseal but mini recommend a silicone type gasket. Could be done in the car though it would be a lot easier to take it all out. Maybe easier to clean the block and smear a sealer on the outside, won't last forever but will help to reduce the drips
