Man I wish I would have watched this earlier I spent 3 hours on my passenger side rear. I now know a new trick. Thanks again you guys have helped me alot.
You should be using the special tool to wind the piston back into the caliper. It’s not expensive. And ALWAYS use an axle stand. Clean the disk with some brake disc cleaner to remove any oil or grease. Refit using brake grease sparingly between piston and pad. Nitrile gloves keep you clean!
Using youtube to seek car repairs and expecting to see a professional "by the book" procedure is never going to happen, but watching someone else do the job gives you the balls to attempt it yourself - that's what this vid is for, if you don't like it then book it in at Kwik fit and prepare to pay a lot extra. at the end of the day he got the job done, he merely showed how simple it was to replace the pads - if you are the sort to get the spanners out and fix the car yourself then you should know already that when you have to get under the car you always put a axle stand whatever the job, just because he didn't use a axle stand doesn't mean that you don't have to use a axle stand, and as for winding the piston in using grips - as long as you don't touch touch the seal with the grips then you won't damage the seal, why splash out on a tool which you would prob only ever use once.
It does. Here Tony just uses a pair of channel locks to sink it back into the bore but we do sell a tool for this on our site. Go to Mini Mania daught calm, go to the new MINI side, and plug in "caliper tool" in the search box.
The bolts holding the caliper on my 2005 mini S is a star bolt. The piston rear brakes must be pressed in while turning. I use a large c lamp and channel locks on one side. Then I found if you put a pebble in the dimple of the piston and a clamp worked great.
@martyn james Never had a problem with any breaking. You see people using a tourqe wrench changing a tire ever? Hardly.. Unless you are jumping on the tire iron to get it tight.. If you have a tourqe wrench handy, hey use it.. Can't hurt but it's not really critical for most people with a little mechanical experience..
@martyn james It's probably best to tourqe stuff to spec but I bet with your experience, you would be just fine.. Anyway don't mind me just being a keyboard critic. .lol..
i got a old socket same diameter as the piston - cut the notches using bench grinder - using a G clamp place socket in piston and screw G clamp till it starts applying pressure on piston - use grips to turn socket whilst same time pinching up G clamp - easy as that
So I did my mini cooper s rear brakes pads.. used the loaner tool from AutoZone. Did one side with no problem. The other side caliper would not move at all. Found out it was a diffrent pattern tool that comes in the tool kit,, drove me nuts ,, just changed the pattern tool and the caliper started to back with no problem.. just a heads up on that
For all of you commenting about the lack of jack stands, we appreciate it - really we do. However, there's an admonishment about this in the video itself at 3:00. Please, no more jack stand comments. Thanks.
I've just done this on a 2003 Cooper S and there's a large spring retaining clip that's not shown on this video. Assume it was dropped for the Gen 2 cars ? Def agree about the jack if you're going to lay under the car get a stand.
OMG man! Use axle stands! Those jacks can fail without warning! You NEVER put any parts of your body under a car that is only supported by a jack! NEVER!
the caliper piston - you mean? if you can, get the tool that's made for the job - but, yes if you're careful you can you use channel locks on it - just don't mar the surface
There was narration of what he is doing?! Like when he is turn in the disc calipers, that it can be done with a special tool or by hand! Or that he is replacing the pad wear sensor!
The caliper pistons need to be turned back into the bore, unlike some pistons. There are special tools you can get for this operation. Well sell an inexpensive set that covers lots of different makes: new.minimania.com/part/G2NMB2997/Mini-Cooper-Rear-Caliper-Retraction-Tool-For-All-Models
@@minimania I had a 2003 Jetta, that has the rear brakes that have calipers one has to turn-in piston before installing pads. I saw additional videos stating the need for special tool or manually turning the caliper piston. Thank you
do the rotors need to be replaced (front and / or back) when installing new pads? Most Mini repair shops state that new rotors need to be put on with brake pad service. great video.
Coopers use a mostly metellic pad, so the rotors will wear faster. This is also why they stop so quickly. Yes, it's recommended that the rotors be replaced as well.
well, i hate to say it, but... the 2005 Mini Cooper R50 (base model) has brakes that are nothing like the ones in the video. Removal requires a allan key, not a wrench or socket!, sitting under the car =always a good move!
what thickness do the rear brakepads need to get to until the onboard computer says they need to be changed? I have a 2016 mini cooper SD with 17K miles, with 6mm on the back pads and BMW says they need to be replaced?
Minimum rear brake pad thickness for the Gen 2 MINIs is 3mm. Not sure about the rears on the Gen3 cars. But I can't imagine needing to replace pads with such low mileage on any car - unless there was a problem with the rotors? In that case, you have to change both.
thanks for the reply. On my old mini I'm sure I didn't change the rear brake pads until 53,000. Now my dashboard is lit up red after 17,000 miles...they've got to be kidding.
I reused mine when replacing the rear right pads. You can carefully pry them out from the inboard pad; if the sensor already tripped because the pads were worn too far, then get a new sensor, about $15 . I put them back on with some dielectric grease to allow them to be removed easily next time. If you don't have enough patience or finesse, just break them off quickly and replace. Be aware when replacing pads that only one pad has the notch for the sensor, so it needs to be placed at the right inboard pad location.
So r alot of 'wear and tear' can be done urself on Mini? I know VW they locked everything in the car where u have to go to their dealship where they charge u and arm and a leg.
Please dont get under a car without stands. 10 years ago, a friend of mine did the same. We were having a disagreement about technical stuff via email about that time. I won the agrument because he was unable to respond. God bless him. Please use extra caution when working under a car. Any movent can cause the car to drop on you and you will suffocate as well. No disrespect at all, just coaching....
How about cutting away at crucial points, fast forwarding through the actual work, obscuring removal of pads, and not explaining important parts? :) Thanks for putting the video up, but it's not terribly informative other than letting us know you know how to do it.
Damn shocking like the last man said no lube for squeaking no wind bk tool, the way it was done with plyers will most likely ripe the rubber boot surrounding the calipers piston wich will corse leaking in the future. And not to mention the health and safety (axle stands)
