Thank you SO much for this. It worked ! The fet was just displaced, re-soldering it was all that was needed. This little grinder has been so useful to me and as they only come to lidl occasionally, it means I can wait now instead of spending four times as much on one that is not as good. Many thanks. (I soldered a 30mm copper strip onto the pad to disperse the heat. Seems to work. )
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There are many models of the same Parkside drill tool, mine was the version with two M7 Diodes in Parallel connection and a CSD30N70 N-Channel Power Mosfet. First if the tool does not work,check the voltage of the battery,must be around 12v fully charged, check the pins of the drill if they make contact on the battery or not. Take off the PCB, inspect the two M7 Diodes (mine were a little out of place,probably they got hot,and got desoldered, so i measured them ,one was dead short,the other was fine at 0.6v) the M7 diodes are smd version of the 1n4007 1000v 1A, so i replaced both of them since i had already some 1n4007, but if you can you could also use a Schotty diode like SK56-DIO 60V If:5A,the schotty diodes are optional only if you want your drill to last a bit longer. after replacing the diodes,insert the battery ,then if the drill works immediately without powering it on after inserting the battery,this means the mosfet is probably dead. Desolder the mosfet. Measure the Source (right most pin, pin3) and the Drain( middle pin , or pin 2, or the cooling tab)> if the value is close to 0 OHM( mine was 1.2ohm) then the mosfet is dead,replace it with any 30v VDSS , ID bigger or equal to 55A and preferably low RDSon smaller than 9mOHM. I had a AUIRFR3504, rated 40VDS but works ok i guess.
Testing not this Maschine on Factory ? Sorry that's Pfusch ! Great Video Thanks. My Maschine go 2 sec and than out, and the next on/off Button go 2 sec and then out.
Use flux to ease the process of removing the mosfet. Also use an hot air station for this kind of job. It makes things easier. By using flux the solder melts and flows easily.
very good fix Zana, only problem is, charger may take many days, they take 10hours just to charge the 9v square battery, the lion is much larger. much better than throwing away, i cannot believe the mosfet melts from the board! bad design
do you buy broken tools because you enjoy sometimes repairing them? i have often bought rusty hand tools for the fun, an old plane was fun to restore to shiny and sharp blade, handles were split, chrome was bad, it looks very nice now, and works great, i enjoyed doing it
maybe use a $1 dollar dc-dc boost converter and an old phone charger to charge the device? you can accurately set the converter to match the near fully charged voltgage on the lipo, maybe use a resistor to limit max current for empty battery, even some resistance wire on a metal case, about 1 ohm should match it well
Hello, I’m Lussorio, an italian hobbist, not a tecnician I have a Parkside PFBS L A1 mini drill, the one with the removable battery. It doesn’t work anymore but I’d like to repair it. It seems that this tool is manifactured by Grizzly tools company. The problem is that the tool won’t turn on and I don’t really understand the reason why. I opened it and nothing appears. So I tested the motor first and it works fine. I thought the problem was on the control board marked AO5316. It has a round red switch to turn the tool on and off. On the board there are an IC controller marked S69-2LF (think from Delta Electronics but not sure of this), a switch mosfet marked CSD30N70, two M7 diodes and a toroid ferrite ring, as principal parts. First I replace the two M7 diodes whenever they seemed in working order and the tool won’t turn, then I replace the CSD30N70 mosfet (unfoundable yet) with a DD3906 with similar features and the tool still won’t work. I also replace the S69-2LF IC (also unfoundable) with a MAX4391 with same features (read it on the web but not sure of this). Unfortunately, no one of those paths solved the problem and the tool is still mute and won’t work. I need help and I ask you if you can do that telling me where should be the problem. Otherwise I ask you if you can inform me about a place, a site where to buy the complete control board. Any help is welcome. Thanks. Photografies of the tool’s control board (switch and IC unmounted), the housing’s drill and the battery are attached. Please let me know about. Address mail: zopdur20@yahoo.it
Tengo varias herramientas Parkside pero esta me ha decepcionado. El producto es de muy baja calidad. Sin someterlo a un gran esfuerzo de poca duración, el mosfet se ha desoldado en dos ocasiones. El diseño es incorrecto, no han considerado el excesivo calentamiento y deberían haber mejorado mucho la refrigeración Por otra parte el cojinete del eje soporte del mandril no ajusta bien y desde nuevo, la máquina vibra mucho a determinadas revoluciones El cargador es malísimo. Para evitar nuevas decepciones, he comprado un Dremel 4000 con el que estoy muy satisfecho
I have the same fault like Roland. I took out the motor and connected to battery and it doesn't run mosfet is ok, motor with 5volts runs, battery voltage is normal. I can't for the life of me understand what's wrong.
Not a good idea. Freestanding MOSFET is a bad idea. Airflow alone is not sufficient to cool it. It needs a heatsink. They way it was from factory, the circuit board is used as a heatsink, but not enough copper plane.
