I can't understand why your video doesn't have more views. There are little to no videos about doing rear calipers on this Mini, and yours shows everything you need to know. Got my like tho
Thank you from 2024. Great vid. Made changing mine a breeze. I’ve left the old pad carrier bracket on - too rusty for the time I had will get to it next rotor change. But finally my handbrake works again. Cheers boss.
The inner pad has a clip that must be clipped into the actual brake piston before fitting the caliper If you don't clip it onto the piston you will be breaking on the wire clip rather than pushing the rear of the pad, the pad will wear at an angle and or rattle. I have seen incidences of mechanics grinding the clips of which causes a knock when braking or reversing
I have to say I do like working on Hondas. But that is probably because I have done some much on them. I did the cam chain and guides on a R56 and that was no fun either. Cheers and good luck with your next car.
Thanks for this. Both mine have seized which is not good. Looks fairly straightforward. I was always told to bleed the brakes in the same order you do.
There are one way valves available that you can fit into the catch bottle line, it stops the caliper drawing fluid or air back up the line when pumping the brake. It is advisable to have the line come up vertical a few inches above the bleed nipple so you can see the air bubbles.
fyi, in the haynes manual it states if the brake hoses are to be disconnected, just put some slight pressure on the brake pedal and it will only lose a slight amount. I used a block of wood. (and yes i know 7 years later)
Superb video. I got stuck on removing the metal part of the cable from the hole in the caliper. I did try the screwdriver and hammer but it wasn't budging and didn't want to be too forceful as I wasn't sure it even came out that way. Will try again in near future :)
John Carlyle I had the same issue on the caliper on the other side. I would recommend using a metal saw to cut a notch where the cable goes into the caliper. This will make it easier to remove the handbrake cable. Thanks
I think that'll have to be my last resort (or cut the handbrake cable and change that too), as I paid a surcharge on the refurbished calipers which is refunded upon sending the the old ones back and I don't think they'd be too happy if I've cut bits out of them :D
Removing the spring was easy, but I had to use a cut off wheel to remove the parking brake holder. The bleeder screw was seized, handbrake cable didn't want to budge, and the brake line started to round off, so I stopped and purchased a proper 14mm flare nut wrench, hammered it on and removed it. Got lucky on that one or I'd be buying a whole new line.
donx03 Yeah that is sometimes how it goes. I remember do the same job on thos car before (must have been the other side), and I ended up putting a slot in the handbrake cable holder to get it out.
I have learned, to prevent rounding off a bleeder screw, use a closed circle wrench of appropriate size, then use an open one as required for bleeding.
Daniel Gomez Only one caliper was stated to be not functioning correctly (when pressing the brake pedal and with the handbrake) therefore other side caliper was fine. Thanks for your support.
Hi, sorry I am not sure. I wpuld recommend going on the website of a good brake manufacturer and see if different options are listed for those years. Thanks
