I forgot to record the intro and the outro... oops... I'm working on the conclusion video that will cover all the upgrades I did and how to tune it to your preference. This will take a while. FAQ: Can we increase the steering angle. Answer: No. The mechanism is very limited in all the places and the swing angle of the servo is small. We can't increase that and still keep the tie rod from coming off the servo horn. As a result, we can't increase the steering angle.
I got that model, I absolutely love it. Other than the springs, i looked for months for the other parts. I could never find them. But now i know what i have to do to get the camber, im definitely not sure i want to do that, at least not right now haha.
Adjust front ball diff however you want from there 😁 I got 0 cambers front & rear.. for front camber I just didn’t want any camber turn for my 90mm n rear being soft for throw length n front stiffer for agility I didn’t want rear camber . Love your vids man haha
And I got +0.5mm toe in rear since locked rear differential for straight push help forward 0 toe for front cuz awd… - will actually cause it to turn in less w throttle initially and not let you get the turn in angle mid Just wanted to share w you cuz we enthusiasts
I've been following you for a while, and really enjoy your videos. My girlfriend and I both have MA020s. Mine is the Challenger, and hers is the gray Supra like yours. I have a glued rear diff, front one way, and a PN Racing -1 tie bar. She only has a glued rear diff. I am trying to tune mine, and she prefers to just get better at driving hers like it is.
I just wish i could get more angle out of the wheels when they turn tho, would have been really nice. If i can, I’ll be getting another mini z, or maybe something bigger for drifting.
Hey beaver Front one way is locked diff So if you want good oversteer go locked rear and ball front differential Softest you can go but stiffest front at your comfort and rear softer at your liking
When front one way is on power it might feel like a locked diff but it's not. When you turn it actually lets the other wheel run faster. The main thing I use it for is to do the "handbrake" effect. Because it'll let the front wheels roll when I break or let go of the throttle (like rear wheel of a bicycle). Basically it's for very tight turns or to execute the drift easier. Anyway, it depends on your driving style. If you feel like ball diff suites you more than the snap oversteer then you should stick with it.
Hey there! I’m getting my MiniZ in a few days (finally! Haha) and I’m curious whether it needs lubing anywhere. I remember your K989 series and I know it needed it and I want to do my best with the MiniZ. Thanks in advance for your response, keep on making great videos! 😄
Great video! Very helpful. Does drifting require front narrow and rear wide wheels? I recently bought a mini z AWD and want to get new wheels and tires. It would make shopping a lot easier if they were all the same width :). Is it better to get all narrow or all wide? Thanks
Great video, has helped me a lot! Thank you! Do you think the stock gear ratio and motor is perfect for drifting or would a different gear ratio and the optional x speed motor help also?
My wish from Kyosho is to make the rear end of the awd chassis that can house any body with 86mm wheelbase by moving in the kingpin struts and rear toe (the differential can stay where it was) by 4mm, because I can see there could be a chance that could happen... Also is there any chance that the LMP bodies can fith the awd chassis?
The 86mm will need them to abandon the AAA because of the length. If they do I hope they revive the Lancia Stratos too. As for the LMP bodies I'm afraid it's not possible because AWD has diff housing up front and it's too high for those bodies.
I change the same things but you drift like a pro, I don't... I find more difficult to drift with locked rear diff and one way front diff versus stock ones... With the stock ones it seems smooth and less nervous but I have to learn a lot. How can I learn to properly drift?
I think you'll just do it over and over again until you get the feel of the car, when and how to let go of the steering so it slides. Pull the throttle then steer in to initiate a drift. Then once it slides, let go of the steering. Then slightly steer left or right to maintain the direction.
Nice video!! I have a question. I have the same one way as yours and the kyosho one way but the front tire doesn't spin freely like yours. The front and back stop at the same time. Any thoughts about that? I cleaned the bearings, drive shaft, camber, wheels and oil the bearings and front one way but it doesn't seem to help.
If you hold the rear wheels then push the car on the floor, do the font wheels turn? All that matter is the front wheels can roll forward while rear wheels don't move when it's actually on the floor. If not I'm afraid the drive cup shafts (the shafts that go into the one way) are too thick and you'll have to sand them down.
Here are some race videos I made play with my friends. Take a look when you have time!! m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cG-DbRbnv9o.html
Beaver's Hobby Hello, do you believe your final result with this MA-020 puts it's drifting ability head and shoulders above your tuned WLtoys 284131 (k989) ? Thank you.
With a ton of effort WLtoys is better to drift than MA020 mainly because it has better steering angle. MA-020 wins out in terms of simplicity and easier to get it working. You can practically open the box and play, no need to fix anything.
Stock is already good with enough torque and speed. If you upgrade it to a faster motor then you can use a smaller motor pinion to compensate for the torque.
@@orsini3569 0 rear toe or stock is good already. Get the largest rear camber as you possibly can (4 degree if I remember correctly). It'll reduce the tyre contact and make the car more eager to slide.
@@orsini3569 Yes, the stock should be 0 toe already. Try different camber if you can and see how much rear grip you need on your floor. Maybe too little grip makes it uncontrollable.
Hey Beaver, I have a AMZ and bought those mini z diffs (one way & locked) the front fits and does not bind but the rear the drive shafts are bonding. Are there shorter driveshafts than the atomic AMZ drive shafts?
Not really sure how the rear drive shaft bond because shorter drive shaft. Is the pinion gear too close to the diff gear? Or it doesn't reach the gear at all? The problem with using direct Mini-Z diff on AMZ is that the gearbox on AMZ has less room than Mini-Z and you'll have to grind inside of the gearbox out a bit to make it work,
There's threaded end screw upgrade. This one comes with the whole top. www.mpower-pro.com/MAP003NR If I remember correctly there's screw only kit from PN Racing. Can't find it right now though, will send you the link if I find it.
I did one for RWD and it should be the same with AWD too, just with different capacitor position to make it fit inside the chassis. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XdJIDhzw0xE.html
Yes, it's the most basic thing you can do to make the wheels keep spinning constantly. Personally I rate it below the front one way because it doesn't have the "handbrake effect" where you can flick the rear out one demand in an extremely tight corner. Some will find front one way too twitchy and difficult to control so they will use solid axle instead.
Front spring set part number Kyosho MDW201. Rear spring set part number Kyosho MDW004. Front one way Kyosho MDW017. Rear solid axle Kyosho MDW024 but you can just lock the original diff.
Did you add anything to the car for the build off camera? A few times in the video it looks like you added different swing shafts from stock mini z. Also how important is the upgraded remote? I want to build a ma020 just like you did in your videos with the parts you listed in the parts list only with stock radio is this possible?
I did the metal swing shafts upgrade alongside the front one way and rear solid axle in the previous video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0RbB5xAqLyc.html So the full parts list are actually - 3RACING AWD-02 www.rcmart.com/3racing-alum-swing-shaft-for-mini-z-awd-heavy-duty-awd-02-hd-00020637?search=3racing%20awd-02 - Front one way and rear solid axle kit from Aliexpress (same as original but way cheaper) www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001671065507.html - MDW201 - MDW004 - MDW203 - MDW202 The upgraded remote is not important. It's really not worth $300 for the amount of extra settings and improved response time. The stock radio is more than capable to drive well. I do it because I already have it. You will only get this remote if you will stick to this hobby, buy more cars as well as other kit cars to build. ps. Sorry I didn't show the FOW + swing shafts upgrade here because I've done it in the channel countless of times.
Also, when I added the rear DWS system to my AWD, it has toe in on the rear, cannot recall if out the box it had rear toe in. Is rear toe in good or bad for drifting?
DWS, at least the one I got, came with 2 degree toe in and it tries to push the car back in like too much so I don't recommend that for drifting. Try and change the toe bar to 1 or 0 toe is better.
Hi Mr B. Do you recommend the camber and toe adjustments for the AWD drift? Also have you experimented with the gearing yet (Standard not counter steer mods)? Thanks.
-0.2 tie rod for toe out and 1 degree camber at the front. At the back if you can find the piece, 2 degree camber or more if you want the rear to slide out more. As for the gearing, to my driving style and track size I prioritize the torque so the out of the box setup is perfect already. Increase the pinion and decrease the spur if you can't slide the whole long corner of your track.
@@lfodh1 Yes, it would. The rear will have less grip on the straight and make it easier to initiate a drift. I didn't get the adjustment part because it was out of stock at that time.
@@BeaversHobby thanks again for that video! I had a drift Mini-Z couple years ago but ditched it because it wasn’t really fun. But now, after watching your vids, I bought a MA020 again and use a rigid rear + one way front diff, toe out front, hard rear & soft front springs and it’s soo easy to drift and a lot of fun. I actually prefer training mode. Not because it’s easier, but because it looks and feels much more realistic and closer to real scale speed. I’ll combine that with LF5 tires, and add as much weight as possible to the chassis, to get it closer to behave like a real car. 👍
Unfortunately none of these fit Wltoys. Wltoys is 98mm wheelbase wide chassis. Supra is 94mm wheelbase narrow chassis. AE86 is 90mm wheelbase narrow chassis.
@@BeaversHobby i also want ask u something about drift tire.I ordered"GL Racing R10 4WD Machine Cutted Wide Offset 3 Carbon Rim 2 pcs Black For 1/27" from rcmart and i need drift tires.Can u say what can i buy?There are too many product
@@anl1267 For drift tyres take a look at DS racing lineup. There are many LF numbers, the higher the less grip it has and results in lower drifting speed. The LF-1 is equivalent to Mini-Z drift tyres. I recommend LF4 for AWD. As for the wheels you choose, that bunch of letters mean wide wheels 11mm with 3mm offset so it's really deep and will stick out a lot. The original wheels are narrow (N) 1.5mm offset.
No, not really. The original tyres are good for all surfaces already. Changing tyres is for something extra like more grip or less grip to work better on your floor.
@@保保保 I'll have to finish the basic mod videos first before I go into CS. With this limited steering I'd probably go to around 20-50%, 75% max (1.2-1.5, 1.75 maximum) and not beyond that.
Yes, they are good. Not just the looks but you will have less grip (depending on the shape of tyres but generally the grip will be less) and the rear will swing out easily.
