So one pair of wires went to the relay, and the other pair went to the solenoid that I deleted. But it seems the resistors didn't really solve my CEL. I still need to get it re-tuned to get rid of that.
gotcha, I'm getting that same code for the secondary airflow. Let me know if your tune solves the problem. You think with a tune it would pass emissions?
I know for sure the right tune can make the codes go away, BUT passing emissions will depend on your state. A friend has a Mk7 GTI with a stage 2 tune, and downpipe, but he can't pass emissions in MA with his tune because it disabled some of the emissions readiness codes. Luckily my car is registered to an area in AZ that has no emissions testing at all.
Thank you for posting this video. You explain things kind of fast though. I am just starting to dabble with my .:r32. I really appreciate any kind of mechanical videos that are out there concerning this car.
I've been using this video as a reference cheers mate ! I had a question. Did you end up removing the vaccum box as well? Did it mess up your fuel trim as mentioned or did you keep that along with the n156?
Hi there, came across your video on seeking to delete the secondary air pump for my Touareg. Would you know if a delete is possible without any issues? Many thanks
Hey man it's Chris that made the plate. You care to write down a quick list of what all you were able to delete? Plan on finally doing my own car in the next week and removing all the evap stuff also.
A full list will be difficult, but essentially every single thing in this diagram www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/USA/GO/2004/405/R/1/131/131004 along with the wiring stuff that I pointed out in the video. Does that help?
Other than making the engine take longer to warm up in cold weather with SAI delete. What performance gains does it do? Or is it mostly to clean things up or for aftermarket intake?
It didn't have any affect on the engine warming. The SAIP with the Kombi valve helps the cats warm a little faster when the engine is cold. No direct performance gains, but some reduced weight, a few less parts that are known to fail, and easier maintenance doing anything in the engine bay.
I bought a block off plate kit from a guy on facebook, but it blocks off one hole and adds a barb for the other hole. Something like this www.ctsturbo.com/product/24v-r32-sai-blockoff-plate/
Do you know which wire cluster in the waterfall these wires are in? I think I found it but cannot find a violet/brown wire. Also, can I leave everything in place and just do the bypass to remove the CEL?
I don't remember which bundle they were all in. My bundles were changed around a little from the previous owner when he installed a WOTBOX. If you wanted to remove everything I think the best starting point is the SAIP relay in the relay box next to the waterfall. You'll be able to follow those wires, a couple will run to the ECU, and the others will run toward the SAIP fuse on top of the battery, and also branch toward the SAIP itself along with the EGR valve solenoid that is paired next to the SAIP plug bundle. If you wanted to leave everything in place and not do an EGR blockoff, then I would just get a tune that deactivates the EGR and SAIP functions, and not bother cutting and resistoring any wires.
You're talking about the one that used to be grounded on the EGR plate? I just grounded it under one of the bolt heads on the throttle body. I don't think it was just for the SAI pump since that pump just had a red and white wire that all came out together. I suspect the brown one is for something else, so I didn't want to just haphazardly chop it.
I was talking about the big brown on the pump connector next to the red/white. Looked closer and saw you had it removed. Just a ground for the sai pump. Just to be clear because I don't do wiring often haha... resistor the two wires for the vaccum solenoid and the two small wires that go to the fuse correct?
I took another look at my leftover wiring to see what I did. That ground wire I chopped next to all of the other SAIP wires in the wire harness waterfall, and just taped up the end and tucked it into the bundle next to those resistors. I didn't feel like tearing open all of the wiring under the rain tray just to fully remove that one wire.
Hard to say. First thing I'd check is your combi-valve, its probably clogged up and malfunctioning. The engine should start up and run fine even with the SAIP not functioning.
hello i want to say so far this video has been incredibly helpful to me in deleting my sai pump so far but i have a question about the solenoid you removed, what did you do with the hoses going to it,on my 2.8 24v there is second solenoid right next to it and there is hose connecting them did you just cap the small hose?
That second I think is the N156 solenoid that controls the changeover valve for your intake (should be the right solenoid). I took one of the rubber vacuum line elbows from the SAIP solenoid that I deleted (along with all of its vacuum lines) and swapped it with the T-connector on the remaining solenoid. So that remaining solenoid will just have two rubber vacuum elbows going to the right instead of the original T and elbow. Hopefully that makes sense!
Yeah, you can remove the relay, and then you can rearrange the remaining vacuum lines to remove that branch so it stays a sealed system without needing to cut or cap off anything.
I took another look at my leftover wiring to see what I did. That ground wire I chopped next to all of the other SAIP wires in the wire harness waterfall, and just taped up the end and tucked it into the bundle next to those resistors. I didn't feel like tearing open all of the wiring under the rain tray just to fully remove that one wire.
Thanks for posting this. Im currently getting code P2257 SAI system control A circuit low. I bought the car with the SAI deleted so have no idea why this code popped on. The car was just driving perfectly and one day after sitting for about a month I received this code. Now my car shuts off on idle. I have to keep hitting the gas to keep it running. HELP!
Sorry for the late reply. How much of the SAI system was deleted? It sounds like some part of the system is still there and could be causing a huge vacuum leak or something. That code could be caused by the EGR valve solenoid or maybe part of the SAI Pump wiring is exposed and causing a short. I would go through and make sure all of the wiring I mentioned is deleted correctly, and there are no leaks in the vacuum lines where the solenoid is. The car should run just fine with the pump deleted and blockoff plate even without tuning it off or using a resistor. It will just have an error code, it shouldn't die at idle.
Yeah, I mentioned this in the description and some of the other comments below. The resistor fixed the fuel trims so those are working correctly, but they didn't eliminate the error code. It seems the only way to actually remove the error code is to get an ECU tune that disables the SAIP system completely. But your fuel trims will still be adapting correctly so your gas mileage won't suffer. I plan on going with Reflect Tuning on my R32 to get rid of the CEL.
Blaylock1988 ok I thought I read al the comments haha well as long as the trims are correct that's the most important thing. Thanks again for the replies and the video
This is my daily and I wanted to prioritize reliability and simplicity on this car. I live in Boston and I didn't want to worry about the low intake positions sucking up water during our many storms. I honestly don't miss the extra 100 horsepower, and I like how I can push it to the max and have fun, but its at safer speeds.
The SAIP and EGR system for the 1.8T is a huge gigantic nightmare from the DIYs I've seen. The relay and wires might be similar but no promises from me. forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete
no codes now, emissions readiness seems fine. I don't have to smog for my area but I'm sure it will pass fine. Also every state has different requirements.
Yep, still for sale! looking for $3200 for everything. I've been trying to sell my TT so cleaning up and posting the kit has been on the back burner, but if you want it I'll finish it up quick. The S/C should get a rebuild done it has at least 50k miles on it. E9 Performance does rebuilds and also sells a lot of good stuff I'd recommend you get to go along with the V9 kit.
