I have a 2000 Jetta 2.0, I’ve tested my smog pump by jumping the Pins on the relay and it work fine no leaks either, and I replace the relay, I checked all the fuses and for vaccume leaks, the code it is throwing is a p0411, my pump does not want to turn on when I’m starting it on cold start or when I turn it off, I even cleaned the grounds and nothing, what am I missing ?
Hi! This video is really well detail explained. But unfortunately I have a VW Jetta 2008 and I can’t complete my monitor evap system and secondary air injection. Any tip would help me out.
Thanks for this video. I’ve noticed I almost never hear the SAI pump go on lately… usually my cold start is with temps around 3ºC… do you believe a vacuum leak at the SAI valve could be causing this? I’ve been getting poor mpg and I’m thinking it might be a vacuum leak but haven’t found it, the car runs smoothly, no misfires, new spark plugs, oil etc…
My fuse 43 keeps blowing codes were the ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2. Evap purge valve short in ground, Evap leak detected in system. Secondary air injection system relay ‘A’ malfunction. I changed the Evap purge valve this weekend, checked the SAI relay and it looks clean no scoring, replaced the fuse. Start up was fine. Pump was running as it should. Rpm’s fell back to 750 then I took off down the road. 3 miles later I heard the fuse 43 pop and the CEL and EPC Light came back on.. your thoughts?
I've got P049100, P049200 fault codes for the audi 3.0supercharged TFSI engine. The pump looks good and the hoses too. So I've check solenoid valves and EGR?
Great video… but what I would also say is at: @2:28 …this is a 2L engine and what I wanna do realy quick is to clean up all the leaves and weeds in the wiper ecu valey
I have a 2011 s4 and I just wanted to know if this will affect the performance of the vehicle , I have a check engine as a result, can I drive it this way ?
I am thinking VW did away with the relay for 2007 bug convert. No reference in the owners manual and no evidence under the hood. My air pump tests good but does not come on at startup. Is there a switch/monitor that tells the computer to start the pump? If there is one where is it located? It is not on the tube from the pump to the silver valve. I assume the computer tells the pump to stop. Since it is not throwing a code I don't think a long drive will fix the problem. It won't pass the mechanical portion of the smog test. The week before all this I fixed the PCV diaphragm which was causing a CEL.
Have Mk4 02 GTI and have obd eleven pro scan tool and software. Im having trouble getting the secondary air monitor to run.. all others are and no cel codes ...the car runs fine just 80,000 miles completely stock and maintained... Done most everything and it won't let me force the test.. but can other monitors.
I have a 2007 vw bug that I am working on. No codes but I can’t get it to set the IM readiness code for the secondary air system. Car runs well… any suggestions what to check (that would not allow readiness but not throw a code)? Thanks
That’s an odd one. What scan tool are you using? If it is a good one that reads factory codes, maybe try to disconnect the battery cable ends and touch them for about 30 seconds and try again. I had one like that with O2 sensors that wouldn’t pass and that fixed it years ago. Sorry I can’t be of more help!
thanks for video - I replaced a new air pump but I am still getting the engine light, I presume the problem is with the hoses / valve? how can I fix this? thanks in advance
Any tips on how to remove and replace the solenoid switch? My combi valve and air pump pass the jumper-the-relay-and-apply-vaccuum-to-combi-valve test. The relay checks out, as well. (Pump does come on during cold starts or VCDS secondary air readiness monitor routine. I can feel no vacuum from the solenoid switchover valve when the engine is running and air pump is running, which leads me to believe it is not sending vacuum to the combi valve. No pending or actual DTCs, but the readiness monitor never sets. (The others all set quickly and easily with a couple of drives.)
I had two component failures: 1) carbon-clogged combi. Replacing it prevented additional check engine lights, but the smog test readiness monitor would not set. 2) solenoid switch that controls the combi: Wasn't holding a vacuum. Replacing it let me set the monitor in two relatively short drives. Removal and replacement of the control solenoid valve wasn't that bad -- I suggest removing the three 10mm bolts that allow the triangular solenoid mounting plate to be lowered from under the intake manifold.
I've got a 2020 VW Tiguan. You say the system won't impact drivability, but my car just stopped starting. The only code is P2431 -- "Air control solenoid failure, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure, Secondary Air System pressure sensor failure, Wiring issue" I guess that rules out the secondary air system pressure sensor as the culprit?
I have a 1998 VW Beetle 2.0 engine. I just got a P0411 code from an Auto Zone, with a recommendation to "Replace Vacuum Hoses from Secondary Air Inlet Valve". Just wondering how accurate these recommendations are before I replace the hoses. It's a new air pump by the way. Thanks for your help.
Not sure what you have going on but this video is from a 1999 and should be the exact same. You can replace the vacuum line, as it is very cheap to do. Clear the code and recheck.
Trying to find a resistor to put in place of the wire connector that powers the SAI or more information in general regarding the sai on the 2.0L N/A specifically. Mk4 2.0L avh If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.
Ok, 07 2.5 wabbit 5spd stick. 2ndary air pump is running like a vacuum full-time. I found the hoses to the pump compromised, replaced both hoses. Replaced pump, replaced solenoid valve, and swapped the 100amp fuses to see if that was the issue. I even replaced the MAP sensor under the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body while I was at it. I have looked for this SAI sensor but have never found it, it's supposed to be on one of the tubes, but there's nothing. Also, I am the one and only owner. I did find a video about the SAI and MAP sensors being physically identical. However, they are not one has to be sure that the right part number is in the right location. Any help with this situation is greatly appreciated.
If it is running non stop, either the relay is stuck or the driver in the ecm that turns the relay on is stuck. I think the ecm grounds the relay through the brown/violet wire in pin 8 of the fuse panel where the relay goes. That wire could also be rubbed and grounding to the body somewhere. The ecm applies ground through either pin 46 or 47 to turn the pump on through the relay, to the 85 pin. I hope this helps!
No disrespect at all ive been looking on youtube for the Air and breather systems wanting to cut out alot of them I have an 05 A4 1.8t and it just has way too much for my liking and being nearly 20 years old everything crumbles when you touch it. on the later models you can buy a delete kit but not for the bfb engine only the tfsi variant hence trying to watch as much as i can about them to try diy remove it all myself.
Any ideas about the actual net usefulness of this system, other than floating thousands of dollars to garages to keep repairing them? Does it actually prevent any significant air pollution?
It makes the catalytic converter heat up faster which will reduce hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide when the car is colder. That’s all! When the car is at operating temperature the system does nothing at all. Thanks for watching!
I have a new 2022 Tiguan 2.0t. The problem I'm having is on cold mornings and days with temps around 18-30 degrees. I start vehicle up and drive away, and within 30 seconds car has a hesitation/miss/cough. After about 60-90 vehicle runs fine. No codes are seen or found. Dealer service manager told me it is the secondary air pump and is normal. Dealer is not willing to do any corrections because of no codes. Have you seen any of this? Vehicle has 750 miles. Thanks
I have not heard of this happening. Without a code, the dealer cannot do anything unfortunately, due to policy reasons. It is very odd that I would not leave a code, because VWs are very apt to leave them if even the smallest issue is happening. I would suggest leaving the car with them when it is this cold, and going out with the tech to show them exactly what it is doing.
can u please help me on my Audi A3 2002 BFQ. When I do the test I can not hear anything and the relay is OK. I even changed it for a new but the issue doesn't get fixed. Where should I check. I am a little lost with this problem. I tried to do 12V direct to the secondary air pump and it is working fine so I don't get it. Let me know. Thanks in advance.
Question for you I have a 2005 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 and the secondary air Injection is broken. In your video you mentioned about buying the part fairly cheap can you give me a recommendation online where to buy this so I can have it replaced thank you in advance. Great video by the way
I have a 2004 VW Jetta it has a hard time shifting it is a automatic I took it to a mechanic and they put a timing belt and water pump I bought this VW a couple of months ago and it had a vacuum leak also and it had the engine light was on what do think is wrong with the VW Jetta and can I fix it myself
I got a 2000 vw golf 2.0 and has the code p0411 I have replace the selenoide, the pump, the valve, I even clean up the pipe that goes from the valve to the catalytic and replace the oxygen sensor clear the the code but after 5 miles driving the light comes back on, any ideas don't know what else to do
I have an audi tt 2003 just replace my secondary air pump. No noise on the cold start all hoses connected to the secondary air pump are new. what could be the problem?
I have a 2.5 2013 and just got the 0491 code. Is it possible to remove the combi valve and clean it out instead of replacing it? I would think some real good cleaner might get all the carbon out, if that is my issue. Thanks
@ if necessary, the wiper cowl can be removed. Wipers come out with 13mm nuts, plastic cover pops off, remove the wiper motor assembly, you will have a few 10mm bolts holding in the black metal plate, and it opens up the rear of the engine so much. Takes like five minutes to do and is worth it not to fight with the little bit of room they have back there.
2 года назад
@@AutoScholarwithMrB sounds good. anything i need to mark before i remove like the wiper blade bolts or anything with nail polish?
2 года назад
@@AutoScholarwithMrB and just wanted to be sure we are talking about the same 2.0l 2000 vw beetle non turbo
I was racking by brain around what thw hell the random vacuum cleaner next to my engine was untill my friend told me what it was for lol He only knew cause he removed it when he was doing a custom exhaust and it started showing fault codes