My top 10 mod list is this: 1. Tune (Cobb AP and go from there because it gives options for many OTS tunes and custom tunes) 2. Downpipe 3. Intercooler 4. Plugs 5. K&N drop in and modified stock intake 6. Dogbone insert 7. DSG tune for DSG boys, Short shifter for manual boys 8. Wheels and tires 9. Coilovers 10. $$ for maintenance and/or broken parts
#3 should be an aftermarket intercooler, especially for those who live in hot climates and/or elevation areas. Unless you want your turbo to blow after the tune, get an aftermarket intercooler before aesthetic mods like wheels, tires, and coilovers. Reliability first!
Somewhat I agree with your list 1. Definitely a tune, pretty much a good big bang for a buck 2. Definitely downpipe 3. Clutch for sure, Tune for Automatics 4. Intercoolers. This is Definitely a controversy one because some people prefer DR intercoolers instead of front mount. I have a front mount. Not only was it cheaper but saved myself a lot of time and money. 5. Drop filter 6. Anything. Im saving money for going Big turbo. My list focuses on mostly speed than anything. Wheels are debatable as well as suspension components. Would Definitely recommend mods to like engine mounts and Dog bone mount. Fuel pumps and rs7 spark plugs.
@@coreytelfer4566 Thats awesome!! Im Keeping with the Fueling upgrades, dont know if I really want to spend the extra money for Methanol. Im pretty much ready for stage 3, definitely installing an upgraded is38 turbo.
Air intake: first pull out the “snow guard” from the filter box, drop in filter, and replace factory intake pipe with a 3”silicone intake pipe. Maybe $100-$120 total. Results: gives you the same cfm as a “cold intake” for a fraction of the price.
I’d recommend at least a dogbone mount insert. That really helps especially with the manual cars. Engine/trans mounts too if the funds are available, but the insert is like 50 bucks and makes a huge difference.
For DSG owners: Getting a DSG tune is 10,000% worth it, especially so if you complain about the "gear hunting" and how the factory shift points lug the engine. It completely transforms the car from a driveability standpoint and is as much or more of a drastic improvement over stock when compared to and ECU tune. You can usually get DSG tunes for less than $200 through several tuners on the platform if you have a DSG enabled Accessport.
VW RacingLine lowering springs are designed to be used with the factory struts. Probably the best low cost option for those who don’t want to spend the money on coilovers.
I just got my mk7.5 last month. first mods are neuspeed short shift kit, CTS blow off valve are the first to install. after the break in period I'm installing the COBB accessport, bigger intercooler and ram-air style intake (COBBs stage 2 package) stage 2 clutch and then prob coilovers and new shocks/struts. We shall see what comes after that lol. New subscriber here, thanks for great content!!!
I would change this list up for those of us who daily, or maybe just aren't interested in maximum power in the long term. Mine is still under warranty, and the roads are sketchy around here. I physically wouldn't be able to drive my car to the dealer if I lowered it because the entrance is on a *steep* incline relative to the road. Even at stock height I get nervous lol So I would suggest (in a loose order [also my list is more specific to DSG owners as that's what I have]) 1) Tires (the stock Pirelli P7's that came on mine were *megatrash*. I got a set of PSAS4's and they're phenomenal) 2) Alltrack Skid plate (to protect the plastic oil pan - note from what I've read that this will have to be removed if you go stage 2 + as a larger front mount intercooler may not fit) 3) OBD Eleven, or some software customization that allows you to enjoy extra software ready features that didn't come standard on US models (like comfort open/close, alternate turn signals, etc) 4) If you plan on tuning, definitely a downpipe (and a DSG tune). For stage 1 the downpipe isn't mandatory, but for anything beyond: it is. Also, for stage 2 and after an intercooler as well, and IIRC a charge pipe 4) Wheels are a solid option, though beware that lighter wheels are generally more likely to bend/ crack from potholes. 5) Mudflaps. Especially if you run sticky tires, beware of road debris kicked up into your undercarriage. Also, avoid any guards that touch paint or wrap over/around body panels/surfaces, as they can trap grit that will scuff your paint. I went with a set of Rally Armor and I love the look. Beyond that, the world is your oyster with these cars. Get a few visual mods and make your GTI unique. I really like seeing others on the road and what they've done to them.
@@jpellee9113 I wouldn't. The stock clutch is basically designed for stock power levels and that's it. It'll probably start slipping pretty noticeably under load. There are tons of aftermarket clutches that are pretty good quality. I've read good things about Southbend
This video is great, I have pretty much the exact same car (plaid seats, manual, the works) and I absolutely love it. Had it for 2ish years and I wanna start doing some stuff to it and this is a great start. Think I’m gonna start with the super pin/short shifter.
Intakes don't do anything for these cars BUT if you get an Intake + inlet pipe + muffler delete/discharge pipe it will make a difference. You can't get an intake alone and expect a performance difference when there's restrictive piping. Also if you're gonna get an intake don't get an open one or a small one like the APR. Racingline and Integrated engineering make the best intakes for the GTI
I wish I had a Cobb access port over APR. But I love my intake, it was like $80-$100. Looks cool and sounds good. I don’t care about performance I just want that turbo noise.
The three best mods I ever did that I always recommend are: sway bar, short shifter and air intake. Handles better, shifts better and sounds better. For a total of 1000$, that’s the bang for your buck. If you enjoy spirited driving and tracking, the sway bar becomes the best mod.
on uni stage 1+ and im still scratching my head on what i want to do for big turbo set up. Didnt know if you were ever going that route. Also cant wait for all the aerofabb stuff!
@@hospagalief so far for me it's been great. Still leaves me wanting more but still a good tune. Only thing mine does is it will go into this limp mode State if I push it like full boost for a bit. I'd then have to restart the car to refresh computer. Have throttle pipes, inlet pipe and turbo muffler delete. Don't know if that is causing over boost or something
Pretty Good Video. I have the Super Pin and a few other Diesel Geek Goodies. It is well worth it. Do have a K&N Filter too. Thinking about getting the access port and downpipe soon. What are the your thoughts on a rear sway bar?
@@otonielaburtobermejo4774 I bought tsw Nurburgring wheels in 18” and for a street tire I went with hankook Ventus v12 evo 2 with a 235 width. Incredible tire for a daily and even wet traction is great and confidence inspiring
Does the super pin help out on making it less of a pain to put it in 1st gear and/or 1st to 2nd? It feels really rough when I do it unless I put it in neutral then back to 1st. Great video btw
@@w116tjb I don’t think it has anything to do with the clutch, I’m talking about physically putting the shift knob in gear. Felt like it could be synchros
@@BerryMK7 it is the synchros. Try not to jam your shifter into first gear unless you are going very slow. Definetly don’t downshift into first if you have been doing that.
Really depends. Most people say you need to upgrade your clutch if you go stage 2 or even stage 1. Ive been stage 2 for the better part of a year on the stock clutch and it’s holding up fine. Definetly upgrading when I go big turbo soon though
@@coreytelfer4566 yeah I've been stage 2 for over a year and my stock clutch is still holding. We've got the boost set to come on a bit smoother though so I feel like that's definitely helping
He is only on lowering springs. Some upgraded dampers are compatible with dcc and some aren’t, you’d just have to look into it. I’d recommend the Racingline sport dampers and sport springs. It’s the perfect setup and much cheaper than coilovers.
DP, intercooler, and E30 tune will get you 320whp, maybe a little more. 93 octane can get you close to 300whp but that's about the limit for that hardware. Burbles can be enabled on stock downpipe (not recommended as you'll eventually clog the cat) or aftermarket.
dude, C L U T C H You're saying go stage 2 or pro tuned lmfao these clutches slip with stage 1. Wait on the coils and wheels, get a clutch so you don't get stranded on the side of the road 🤣
@@MeltingRubberZ28 That's great, most don't, and you objectively can't put down the power you're spending all that money on with a stock clutch. Operating tolerances > his anecdotal evidence > your opinion.
@@MeltingRubberZ28 No he did not 🤣 He may not have noticed but APR is a very aggressive tune, the stock clutch literally can't put stage 2 power down. This isn't a question, and it's not just some randos on forums. I've talked to everyone from VW master techs to tuning companies, the stock clutch is the biggest weak point in modding these cars. Telling people to get wheels and coilovers after a tune and downpipe but not even mentioning a clutch is just irresponsible lol. Lots of people gonna be out of a car till they can scrape up 2k when they burn out their clutch in a week.
@@iRant4u haha ok bud I'm totally lying he never did and my setup must have an upgraded clutch directly from VW. Not saying it isn't a priority and shouldn't be planned to be replaced after tuning, but a lot of people upgrade it before even tuning and half the life of it's gone before they actually tune.
If I were to guess, sounds like decat would be just cutting the catalytic converter off and replacing that with a piece of straight pipe. No one does that on these cars, plus with how the factory pipe is bent at a 90 that would be quite a PITA to do
