Mobil 1 vs. Amsoil. Damage Report Torture Test Results. Search for the best synthetic oil (part 3) 

Thanks for watching! Also make sure to check out Part 1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RHk_fibP2wA.html Part 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wak8bnOBbM8.html

I have a 2007 4Runner with over 260K miles and have always used Amsoil. It uses "0" oil between the 15K mile oil change. I have done this since the vehicle was 1 year old. Never had a failure of any kind.

A friend who built engines for short-track racing and also raced his own car, ran several different oils in his own motor until he found the one that showed the least wear on components, rod & main bearings, lifters & cam, and pistons/cylinder walls. This was before the current synthetics.

I rum Amsoil in everything. I have 445k on my 7.3 . I have changed the oil 9 times. Filter at 25k . Oil n filter every 50k. Testing it with independent lab. It comes back same way. Still in spec. Run for 12k and re-sample. The motor is just as strong as ever. Replaced injectors at 385. Conventional oils are every 5k. That is 89 vs 9...money and time saved.

The thing with the harbor freight motors is there’s no 2 the same, tolerances can be different, valve lash is never the same, motor timing etc

Good effort but unfortunately a waste of your time and money.This type of test proves nothing.Ive used Amsoil since the late 70s and it’s performance has been flawless but I leave the oil in the engines.when I’ve had maintenance done machanics always comment the equipment is spotless clean and no apparent wear. By the way my lawnmower is 35 years old starts 1 or 2 pull change oil once a year and don’t have to check the level.

Shouldn’t this be called “LACK OF Amsoil vs. LACK OF Mobile one”?

Mobil 1 always has the best pour point. As a Canadian this important in our long winters.

All I know is in regular life, I’ve got an E36 M3 that is run strictly on Mobil 1. The car now has 273,400 miles, uses a little less than a quart of oil in 5,000 miles, has no knocking or other unusual sounds. I use Mobil 1 in my 2018 4Runner and ALL my 4 cycle power equipment-zero failures. My 2006 4Runner had 237,000 miles when I traded it in, no oil consumption.

I would say run them with the designated oil under a equal load non stop until one fails would be better test

Polishing the crank and replacing the rod would fix both. These little engines don't have a real oil system, just splash.

Most all small engines are built without rod or crank shaft bearings. Running a engine without oil really proves nothing. As soon as you start the engine, the oil left between the rod and crank is spun off. The aluminum rod then heats up until it seizes.

What a waste of engine parts. Doesn’t prove anything with no oil. What exactly is the point?

This is the same test I wanted to see done year's ago but everyone thought it was stupid and wasn't a real test glad I found this video

I'm not sure you are testing oil quality since there wasn't any.

For engine oil I take it to a local dealer shop for the brand- they use a full synthetic Castrol or Valvoline, depending on driving west or east, do any free recalls or updates, and know what to look for that typically goes wrong with this model and year. For my 2 motorcycles, I change it myself and use half Valvoline regular 10w-40 and half Valvoline 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil, from Walmart. It gives me the best shifting smoothness and the firmest clutch feel. I change it when the shifting starts to get worse, since the same oil is in the engine, clutch and manual transmission. It is usually before the 7,500 miles in the owner manuals.

Running an engine without oil is not a test of anything but stupidity.

I got a Honda GX200 and run 10w 30W and it has ran every day for hours for over 3 years. They run a pump 5-6 days a week and the only down time is adding more fuel or travel time between locations. This is in cold and hot Texas summers so I would say Mobil 1 has done very well and Honda builds damn good engines.

The problem is, there is no way to know if the failure is due to oil or the differences in the engines themselves. MAYBE if you did the same test for three rounds (six engines) or more to rule out engine differences, this would carry some weight.

When Castrol was first introduced, they.ran a test similar to this versus so me other oil. They ran both engines for a period of time, then drained both and ran them dry. The engine had the other oil seized after a short while, the one with C astrol ran for a very long while after being drained. The main reason I have since used Castrol I would like to see you run this test using Castrol. .

This Test is good but because you waited for both engines to seize they will both have similar levels of damage and then this teardown is not useful. Maybe running the engines on high load and below minimum oil level with two oils will demonstrate a long-term comparison with different oils when they are strained their hardest.

Amsoil all day, switching both my cars' oil and fluids tomorrow

Cool to see the insides of the engines.

If you do a bearing scar test, where the oil is tested in a bath, not how well it bonds to the metal after drained, Amsoil still has the smallest wear scar. As soon as there's something with more protection, I'll run that.

Amsoil is a great oil but the price is highway robbery. I buy cheap synthetic oil but change every 2k oil and filter every 4500. At some point the garbage the filter can't catch get built up in the oil and also if you have unknown fuel dilution no oil will hold up long, changing often mitigates that possibility. I expect to get 300-500k at around 1/3-1=2 the cost of Amsoil. My take anyway. If you run Amsoil that's OK too, I just have a different perspective.

Nowadays... the engine design is so subtle and clearance is soo tight. Take a look at how many kinds of liqui moly engine oil we have... They are all designed for specific engine/brand. you can't just say good or bad through a different single-cylinder engine and do the basic test...but watching the test is still interesting

I use Redline for my Corvette after a failure on the track with Mobil 1. No problems after five years.

Do joe Gibbs vs amsoil

All you really have to do is take a piece of Emery cloth and clean the Rod journal on the crank and a piece of steel wool and clean the cap and the rod itself and it will go back together and be free I've done it several times on small engines that have been run without oil to the point of seizing up I let them cool off add oil back to the crankcase take the pull start side cover off and use a pipe wrench to spin it over to break it free and allow the oil to get in between the rod and crank Journal

Engine last for years .You can use any brand of engine oil.synthetic or conventional.change oil on schedule.PERIOD

Mobil1 uses alkylated napthalene base stock oil which is superior than pao + ester base oil. I used to be an amsoil fan but after learning so much about oil, I realized Mobil1 is really the best with superior technology. Sometimes one really needs to learn more about chemistry and material science to judge an oil, not just by looking at spec sheet.

You ran both engines dry in an attempt to see if the damage was different in one to the other ? If they failed because they had no oil, the wear and failure points are going to be similar. Not sure what you expected out of this.

Amsoil is probably the best. But I'll stick to royal purple and penzoil which are right up there with it.

I won 6 road racing championships riding Yamaha motorcycles. I was two time national champion, AMA, and, WERA. I switched to Amsoil. I had my first catastrophic engine failure using Amsoil. I woke up two days later in the hospital in plaster. six weeks later when I was able to, I took the engine apart, I had my very first Piston seizure, both cylinders using Amsoil.. I have both pistons and the helmet I was wearing that day which has three cracks in it, and the face shield is melted from sliding on the asphalt. I have them on display in my garage. That was the end of my road racing days After eight successful years ... by the way. Since Amsoil first came out, I have been using it in my cars and trucks. I change the oil once a year. I’ve never had a mechanical internal part fail on any of my vehicles for over 30 years. Right now in my ram 1500 hemi, I am using mobile one and Purolator oil filters.. The federal government, the US Army, the Marines, use mobile one in their multi million dollar tanks. Chevy Corvettes came from the factory with mobile one in them at one time, maybe they still do, some Ferraris come from the factory with mobile one. i’ve often wondered how a new car could come with mobile one in the crank case because, the rings need to be seated my honing themselves in against the crosshatch marks on the cylinder bore‘s. The film strength of mobile one would prevent that matching of the parts by running the engine because of it film strength.. they also use mobile one in equipment at NASA. ever wonder why all these little companies take a.m. at the big boys/namely/mobile one? it’s actually reassuring to see that mobile one is the main target of these other companies attempting to knock mobile one off the top spot. They always claim to be better than or as good as mobile one. I’m actually grateful to these other companies for reassuring me that, Mobile one is still the on top.. Any multi weight oil is partially synthetic.. The wider the spread between the winter weight numbers, such as 10W-30 versus, 10 W 60, the wider the gap, the more polymers have been added in the additives package.. there have been a few gimmick oils over the decades. There are used to be the stuff called Arco graphite. It was black from the graphite in the oil. The problem was, the oil filter would filter out the graphite and would actually block the filter, and it would run on bypass.. then there was that stuff called slick 50.. same thing, solid particulates in the oil that the filter will take out, and it blocks the filter in the meantime How about whynns friction proofing( spelling). that stuff was over 94% pure kerosene then there was STP. Do you know what that is, it is refined crude oil with no additives yet. It is the building block from which they create multi weight oils with additives like anti-foaming agent, anti-corrosive agents, polymers ,STP is the place you start when you are making oil. He start with refined crude oil that has no additives. That is what STP is.. when it’s hot, it is like water, when it’s cold, it would take an hour to pour one can into your engine if it’s below zero. It is not stable at all. I don’t remember what they used to claim it did for your engine, but it was a big seller.. There’s a lot of gimmicks hot there

It would be interesting to see if having something like 10 vs 10 engines with (brand vs brand), average them and see if the failure times of the engines are different significantly. Sample of 1 does not prove much. i mean if you test 10 engines of mobil 1 they could conceivably fail in a wide range of times. I'd pitch in if you did a go fund me on 10 mobil1 vs 10 amsoil :) for science!

Amsoil lasted longer than Mobile 1 in an engine with all the oil drain out, showing better protection adherence to the metal than Mobil 1. Each should look catastrophic, Amsoil just kept the same catastrophe from happening two minutes longer which pretty damn impressive. 👍

Temporary, any new oil is better than any old dirty oil.

I'd like to see Castrol. They say it's 10x on wear protection. Let's find out.

HAVE TO USE OIL FOR AIR COOLED ENGINES NOT LIQUID COOLED ENGINES WHICH RUN AT A LOWER TEMP. USE AMSOIL SMALL ENGINE OIL.

Test Castrol edge 10w 30. That's what I like. The black bottle

I'm trying to understand how this test correlates with engine longevity under normal circumstances

my son used to race Motocross and we used to used good 2 stroke oil but we Burnet piston until we start to used bel Ray 2 stroke oil and we never problem with engine

Amsoil and Mobil 1 are both excellent products and have used both. the general thing is you never want to run an engine without oil under any circumstances, and no matter which brand you use the oil will get dirty over time. it is up to the owners if they want to spend the extra bucks for a premium oil like Amsoil or Royal Purple. personally I think it is foolish to use ANY oil for 20 or 25K intervals. whatever amount of time or money that is saved is not worth the risk of damage.

I havent been keeping abreast of all different oils but from what I can remember amsoil is a synthetic oil and mobil 1 is a mineral oil made using a "synthetic" process. I think amsoil took mobil 1 to court because it is not a real sythetic oil.

I followed your instructions step by step. My car now has a locked up motor. I was going to go to 7-11 to get some tacqitos and some beer. I guess that's not happening.

As much as everyone enjoys the oil debate - I think the bigger liability in modern cars with higher hp is the transmission… many manufacturers are really not clear on automatic transmission fluid changes and dealerships are all over the place with some giving the whole “it’s a sealed transmission” speech… As far as motor oil goes - my 370z does fine with M1 3-4k oil change intervals and I pretty much baby the car

Sometimes failures in engines has nothing to do with the oil. If you race a bike once every week or month it needs to be rebuilt every so often. Things break, shit happens. Most name brand oils now days are of good quality. Driving conditions and maintenance is the key. Use what you like and take care of it. But if you run a vehicle like it's a race car one day it's going to fail no matter what oil is in it. Every oil on the market has had catastrophic failure to the engines they were in. Not one company can claim they never had a engine failure wile using their brand of oil. NONE Not saying some are not better than others but I'm saying most are good quality and engines don't last forever no matter whats in it.

Just want to say thank you I appreciate people going out of their way to make videos like this because you do learn a lot about different oils and filters

Use mazola or Crisco pure canola next time!!

These tests are actually meaningless since no oil is designed to protect an engine like that and Amsoil makes no claims like that.

The problem with this test is these engines dont have an oil system that pumps oil an lubercates these parts its lubercated by splash. Amsoil is fare more superior i just changed my motor cycle oil from mobil 1 to Amsoil an im already seeing better start ups engine sounds smoother shifting is like butter!!!! Why i has hooked an became an amsoil dealer yesterday. Any body looking for the first real 100% synthetic oil hit me up. Amsoil only failed in this setting because 2 reasons 1st mobil1 is thiner even at same viscosity 2nd no oil pump to get Amsoil on that bearing just splashed on.

AMSOIL, MOBIL, MADE in USA 🇺🇲🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 💪💪💪💪💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸💯

Try Liqui Moly Molygen. You will be surprised. However the oil needs to run in the engine for a while, and settle in.

Schaeffer oil is where its at! 🏁💯

My question is which AMSOIL? There is an oil for every application...so which one did you use.

Supertech and Pennzoil Platinum would be interesting!!

Ah, lock up. Just like Microsoft Windows.

No that's not the way to test! If you drain the oil out n run it what do you think is gonna happen? I have seen small engines with failed rod bearings like that many times. The rods are always the first to go. Oh and what oil did you use beforehand, auto oil? AMSOIL makes an excellent small engine oil you know! Idk if Mobil even makes a small engine oil, the formulation requirements for a hot running hard working small engine are much different that a liquid cooled automotive engine you know.

assuming we never drive a car that the oil ran out on us (very rare) which one protects it better under our normal driving ?? Amsoil does. many other independant tests shows mobil 1 is average at best (actually less) for its competing brands. if you car runs dry, 2-3 mins more when you dont know, aint saving you engine.. but normal long life driving, many brands protect your engine better than Mobil oils. Pronect Fam guy tested many oils too & it was knocked out in first round of tests

I would suggest to test Royal Purple. That is the oil you personally use on your cars and it seems to be a great oil, also to see if Royal Purple is worth the extra cost compared to other oils.

Kirkland verses amsoil signature..👆👆

I don't understand.You haven't show running both engines until failure?????

In mechanical terms this test is no valid, I worked with those small engines for very long time and if you remove the cover you are removing the bearing witch keep centered the crankshaft, so without the side cover the engine wont spin when you pull the flying wheel because the crankshaft is crocked no because oil or engine damage, can be some damage there but is not the main reason why the engine dont spin.

Mobil 1 mess’s up seals Amsoil all the way. It’s a group 4 and Metric costs 13 dollars by me.

I already knew Amsoil would win, mobil 1 is not as good as people overrate it. It’s a middle of the crop, average oil

It doesnt prove anything about the oil, most of the oil is spun off immediately and what residue is left is baked on. It shows me that the cheap engines have a big difference of tolerances. Also another senario is the amsoil retained better, baked in a thicker layer, hince the brown look. This test is not how engine oil was designed to be used. Time and time again in tests amsoil wins against all the other brands.

Is this similar to "which laundry detergent works better?" but you don't add ANY detergent LMAO

I like Amsoil, I use it in my taxi without any problems, can you test Schaeffer's and Motul

You would need to run this test 10 times or so to have a decent sampling due to the varying tolerances in the chinese engines.

Go try ELF Evolution Fultech fe 5w30 vs royal purple. Just add 100ml some E.T sintoflon. Then try it...

Harley Davison guarantees your engine as long as you use their own brand oil or Amsoil I use Mobil on my Harley Davidson Ram2007 5.9 Cummins and my wife’s 2013 Nissan Sentra believe it or not when i started to use Amsoil on my wife Nissan after couple hundred miles is stated to give her better gas mileage it went from 33 mpg to 36.7 mpg on my Harley the temperature went down like 4 degrees cooler I tested it with my snap on laser thermometer and on my Ram it also gave me better hair mileage like 1.7 almost 2

I don’t understand the point of this. You can’t test the quality of any oil when there is no oil in the engine. All you did was prove that the engine’s require oil.

Amsoil vs Royal purple wath is the best ? Thank's

Royal Purple vs Redline or Amazon synthetic oil or Costco synthetic oil take your pic regarding synthetics oil

I hope some could test Amzoil Vs Totachi oil

Where both engines broke in with normal break in or convetional oil before the test? As any new engine should be broke in with a break in oil ams oil even says never to use a synthetic to break in a engie

did both engines have the exact same connecting rod journal clearances? would like to see this repeated with 30 engines of each oil. in order to come to a conclusion you need to be able to demonstrate results repeated over and over, right?

Off shore junk engines I used both oils no problems with them

Test rotella with added bit of dura lube

Which Amsoil oil did u use? Amsoil has two types

What is your recommend for motor oil names????.which right oil for engine that want go 500 k miles?????.want save money not amsoil????

Pennzoil Platinum vs Valvoline would be interesting.

you should test the royal purple you used then the recommended oil that BMW recommends for the e46 you have which is a 5w30 castrol or a 10w60 Castrol TWS (recommended for e46 m3) to see what the difference between the two.

What Amsoil were you running in that engine? Was there oil in the engine when u were running them?

On my 3rd Jeep XJ with all 3 turning over 300k plus miles. Used mobile 1 in all my vehicles and never a internal failure. I change every 3,500 miles regardless of vehicle manufacturers recommendations. I won't knock Amsoil products because they're a proven quality brand in all applications. I will knock their ridiculous pricing though..

Sooooooo.... which oil won???

Was the oil supposed to coat the metal after drained?? I use Amsoil on my fleets with the older vans and cars running 400,000 to 700,000 miles. I keep them running with the oil tho.......

Comparing 2 engines running 2 different oil then running them dry proves nothing imo. Engines are designed to run with oil and once they run dry there’s no way to compare how any residual oil would do better than other brands. I’m betting if you did this test multiple times you find different levels of damage each time!

Sorry, I know this took some effort. But if you're interested in testing oil differences this is a useless test. Not only do the actual engine's from Harbor Freight have a fairly wide set of tolerances, motor oil isn't dssigned with clinging as the primary performance factor in a dry environment. None of these modern engine oils are meant to be ran in a dry engine like this.

Try Pennzoil Ultra , a true full synthetic oil, like Amzoil and Mobile one.

Very nice!

People need to change oil regular every 5000km and dont go by oil life and dont extend on oil changes i have a 96 civic 800,000 on it original engine valvoline conventional and everyone is wasting money on this oil keeping it in an engine thinking its gonna last what a waste and a scam

Pennzoil/ Shell for the win

This failure is more to do with the design of the oiling system of the engine not the oil itself

Crankshaft bushings are designed to float on a cushion of motor oil. If you drain all the oil there is no more cushion so of course both oils fail, grease would work better in this situation. You are spending a lot of money destroying engines but not proving anything. You would need to let those engines run normally for a set amount of time then do a tear-down and look for wear..

Mobil 1 caused sludge and carbon deposits in my engine, switched to Amsoil haven’t looked back!!!

mobil 1 is NOT a pao oil. hydro cracked petroleum stock base. Amsoil is a true pao oil. THE original!!

Would like to see these German made oils duke it out compared with the US oils. Fuchs Pro C3 5w30 and Ravenol VMP 5w30. Seem to have very good protection qualities.

Which specific Amsoil product did you use??

For this test to have any real significance you need a statistically significant number of data points - way, way more than one engine for each oil. Random variations in many factors can skew the results when you only use one of each. Results aren't particularly valid that way.