Modifications to my Key West 1720 CC - March, 2018 

Kevin, thanks for watching and commenting. I'll need your email address to send you a copy of the diagram.

Thank you for the compliments and for watching. Take your time and plan things out. Congratulations on your 1720.

Thank you, for both watching the video and for commenting! ~Jim

Jeremy, if you have a bench/platform that runs across the back of the boat in front of the outboard, it would seem you have a PRO model, not a Sportsman (CC) model. Thanks for watching! ~Jim

Jesse, thanks for commenting and from a local! Do you own a KW and if so what model and where do you typically fish? Yes, I've strongly considered a jack plate as I had thought it would be helpful in Florida Bay. I've had a couple online conversations with Tom Marlowe, GM of KW boats, about it. He felt that with my older hull design, there would not be as much benefit from installing one. He didn't say no benefit, just not much. On the 1720CC, the setback from the jack plate apparently has an impact on the running characteristics of the hull and it would cause the stern to sit a little lower in the water. One of these days, I may go ahead and install one though I'll probably raise the outboard by one hole prior to doing that. Yes, a patio umbrella would work but in my case it'd have to be a beach umbrella (don't own a patio umbrella). I've also considered a 10x10 canopy but for the time being will just wear my wide brim hat and go at the projects.

Thanks Kevin. Seems like we are continuously customizing our boats.

Pepper, thanks for the compliment on the video. I'll need your email address to send a copy of the schematic.

Jim, great video, and very informative. I would love to get a copy of the diagram as well. Thank you.

Mako, there is a difference between the bilge pump and livewell pump systems. Bilge pump is not connected to the thru hull in the bilge area as it simply pulls water in the bilge and evacuates it thru the port side even with the live well. The live well has to pull water from outside the boat and uses the thru hull to do so. The pump assembly makes a watertight fit into a base that is connected to the thru hull. This is why I said you may not have to do anything with the thru hull itself IF you can find a replacement pump assembly. That would be the preferred route. If the pump assembly is no longer available, then you will need to remove the thru hull, remove the old pump base from the thru hull pipe and install a brand new system. Good Luck, and keep us posted on the Forum.

Thanks for watching and the compliment!

David Barrante - Thanks David. Glad it gave you some ideas. These are great boats!

Roger, thank you for watching and commenting. The PRO version is a really nice, stealthy boat.

Thanks for the compliment and for watching. I've owned it for going on 4 years now and really enjoy both tinkering with it and being out on the water in it.

Thanks for viewing and commenting!

On a 22', that'd be a tough decision. 24v would probably be adequate for most situations but when you needed the thrust of a 36v and didn't have it, you might be feeling disappointed. The 1720 is a great all around boat, until you want to go offshore or take a group of family members out. I look at it as fitting my needs 90+% of the time. To be able to do 100% would probably require two boats. My first FF/CP was a Garmin 70dv touchscreen. That was sweet, but didn't have side view or CHIRP. Upgraded to a 74SV several years back. The Plus series really takes the best of both worlds and may be on the short list soon. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Your comment (thanks for watching, by the way!) makes me think that all boats must be project boats. Sure, some more than others, but they all are. We buy them, use them and slowly transform them to our personal likes. No wonder they get such a bad rap, B-O-A-T!

@@JimMFishing ya this is my 4th boat and I can always find something to add. Lol

Thanks, man. The 90 will push it fairly nicely around 37 at the top end. The wonderful aspect of this boat is that it is easy to launch and retrieve by myself, can be washed down in about 20 minutes and can be pulled by about any vehicle that has a hitch. It simply "fits"!

Thanks for watching, Chuck. I hope it gives you some ideas.

Don, I will need your email address to forward the file.

Yes, I am still monitoring all of my videos. Thank you for watching and commenting. I will need your email address to send you the wiring diagram and will put a disclaimer that, because I am not there watching what you are doing and do not know your level of electrical circuitry knowledge, I take no responsibility for your use of the diagram. If you send me your email address, I’ll be able to get you the diagram over the weekend.

Thanks, UA. Yes it is!

Icy, its getting about fully modified for my liking. A live well light would have been nice that evening we were fishing and electric gauges on both TM batteries would give me an additional level of confidence, not that I don't trust the boat as is. As for a T-Top, I've only seen two other 1720s with them. I prefer the bimini for shade as it provides more and doesn't raise the COG like a T-Top might.

Iam curentley redoing wiring on my 2002 1720 . would love to get a copy of your wiring diagram. Thanks

Allen, many thanks for watching and commenting. The KW 1720 is just a boat that fits- the wallet, the tow vehicle, inshore, nearshore, flats, lakes, family fun, you name it. They are great boats! Send me an email at jimmfishing@gmail.com and I'll send you the wiring schematic. ~Jim

Congratulations on your purchase. These are very fine boats, well constructed, that just seem to fit the requirements of almost any need except offshore. Thanks for watching and for your kind comments. DC electrical wiring in a boat is rather simple but you still must have basic wiring knowledge and a good understanding of loads and wire sizing to safely accommodate them. I'd be happy to send you a diagram of how I wired my boat if you'll send me your email address. I take no responsibility for anyone following what I have done.

@@JimMFishing can you please email me a copy of the wiring diagram sir? Just got one of these and am getting ready to do some wiring myself. Also what makes this boat "not good offshore"? Me and my buddy were debating on it and we've made it out fairly easy in the right conditions once but turned around as it was night. But anyways please email a copy apexsolutions1.co@gmail.com

@@loganknapp6016 - Logan, the 1720 can go offshore if you pick your days and be extremely mindful of the weather. I was caught 15 miles offshore in Virginia while in an 18 footer when a nasty front came thru. Our bad for not heeding the weather broadcasts. While I survived that ordeal, I have much more respect for what Mother Nature can throw at us. For a good idea of what the 1720 can handle (although I wouldn't recommend taking one out in these conditions), Google search the 2019 Florida Skiff Challenge.

I thought I had already replied but YT today does not show it. Congratulations on your 1720 purchase. You'll find it is a great boat for near shore and inshore fishing and water activities. As for the electrical diagram, I created it myself based on the factory wiring and modifications I've made. There is no factory wiring diagram available that I am aware of.

Slipp, thanks for that compliment. I'm not an EE, just a fella that learned a bit about electricity and enjoys working with it.

Mako021, thanks for viewing and for the compliment. The TM wiring runs thru a black polytube chase that runs from the bow to the starboard bilge area, then up thru a hole and into the starboard aft battery compartment. (The factory bow nav light wiring also runs thru this chase.) Look for three 6 awg wires - black, red and orange, they may have become discolored over the years. I've been told the early model 24v TMs used a three wire system. The KW factory prewired these boats for the capability of using either a 12v or 24v TM. If you search on the Key West Boats Forum, you'll be able to find threads that will have pictures of this wire chase :). The LED courtesy and nav lights were purchased on eBay if I recall correctly. The courtesy lights are also referred to as stern lights. I installed a LED bulb in the adjustable height stern light so it puts out much more light that the original incandescence bulb.

Chad, that is the diverter valve selector lever and the raw water washdown hose connection. If the original plumbing remains in the bilge, the 500gph Rule pump sends water to a black plastic diverter valve operated by a cable to the selector lever (what you observed over the starboard aft compartment). Most likely, the cable (similar to a bicycle brake/gear cable) is long rusted / frozen and not operational. The diverter valve determined whether the pump's output was sent to the raw water hose connection (a very weak flow and of little use) or to the live well inlet.

Fendall, the exit hole in my 1720’s starboard rear battery compartment was unrestricted into the bilge. The port side beneath the live well is a whole different story! I’d take a wooden dowel (so it won’t damage any wiring) and try to push it thru to open up a hole. From that you should be able to begin freeing the existing wiring. It also helps to mount a negative bus bar in that compartment to ground the bilge pump, stern light and any other mods you may add in the future. It also cleans up the wires that have to be attached to the battery terminal, making for easier battery changes when that day comes. I’ve added LED light to that compartment (tapped into the stern light feed and of course grounded to the bus bar) and live well LED (separate feed from ACCY switch and grounded, well you guessed it. 😎). Good luck. And if you don’t mind, please post back your eventual success for others.

Ha, ha, Mark. As we both know, if it was only that simple! Its definitely a fun boat and it is easy to launch / retrieve by myself. I can't get into as skinny a water as you can, but it only needs 8-9" to float across a flat. It's perfect for 95% of what I want it for.

Ken, they were purchased from Bass Pro shops. The adjustable post had to be modified to get the correct height for the location.

Its been too long ago to say. They were purchased on line, most likely from Amazon or EBay. Search for 3" round transom light. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks, Marlene. I've made some additional mods since making that video that may warrant a sequel!

@@JimMFishing I'm looking at a key west 1720 2004 they are asking $9500.00. it will be my first boat if I get it. I'm not sure if it's the right first boat to buy.

@@boricuamh48 Marlene, there are a lot of variables that go into determining the price for a boat - options, engine and engine hours, condition, cleanliness, trailer, season and location. While the price seems about right for a clean, great condition 1720CC with a 90hp engine, it all depends upon those factors. If this is your first boat purchase, contact a reputable mechanic in your area for the engine brand and pay them an hour or two to go over the engine, the single biggest worry when purchasing a boat. Better would be to obtain the services of a surveyor who will go over the boat bow to stern, hull, cap, electrical, plumbing, engine, etc. A little more expensive but $9,500 is no small investment. If the survey costs $500 and you discover that this find has some hidden defects, the purchase is not going to be as wonderful as you want it to be. You should also check out the forum for Key West owners, a privately run forum not owned by KW: keywestboatsforum.com. The people on that forum (myself included) have a world of knowledge and are waiting for the opportunity to share what they know. Wishing you the best experience ever with whatever decision you make.

Slipp, Thanks for watching and for the compliment! Here in south Florida, we can get into deep water relatively close to shore. I've had my boat 5-6 miles outside of Caesar Cut fishing a couple of wrecks 150+' of water on a calm day. I could have gone further, it was that flat, but there was no bottom structure further out. When the wind first began generating some light chop, I headed back in. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ADxRsPxZLNY.html There's a fella up in New Smyrna Beach, Salty Kayak on YT, who used to have a 1720 before upgrading to a 186 (I think). He routinely took his out 15 miles or so, out of sight of landmarks. Some of his older videos indicated he had some rough rides. I wouldn't want to venture that far out unless on the buddy system. I learned my lesson back in my younger days. I foolishly got caught in a fast moving (40+) storm front while 15 miles off the Virginia coast in a 18' closed bow runabout. We were monitoring the VHF Marine broadcasts but didn't see any clouds approaching so we continued fishing. When we did finally start to see clouds, it was too late. Long story short, we made it back in on our own power but learned a lesson that hasn't left me.

Mako021 - ewww, you need to change your name to KW something! kidding!! I believe you referring to the live well pump as an aerator pump. I haven't had to change the live well pump on my boat. The pump "cartridge" is secured into its base by some method that I have not researched. You would not have to remove the thru hull unless you want to switch to a different brand or a replacement pump cartridge is no longer available. My purchases do not show up in the purchase history. Here are some links to what appear to be the same courtesy lights and the exact same shark eye LED lights: www.ebay.com/itm/Marpac-7-6595-Boat-Marine-LED-Advantage-Side-Lights-Flush-Mount-Shark-Eye/124137385014?epid=22017015662&hash=item1ce72a2c36:g:O7IAAOSwym1eg~Bf www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Marine-Chrome-LED-Transom-Navigation-Stern-Light-Mount-Boat-Round-Anchor-IP67/352263894752?epid=14012948553&hash=item52049076e0:g:iBkAAOSwPjNclbwU Remember to use adhesive heat shrink crimp butt connectors when making the wiring connectors.

Thanks for the compliment and for watching. I believe I bought them off eBay. Regardless, this is the brand: www.ebay.com/p/1778847820 If you want to see the wiring schematic, send me your email address.

@@JimMFishing thank you so much....

Thanks, Wayn. Like you, I'm a DIYer and tinker a bit. And especially on a boat, I'm a firm believer that everything be shipshape for both convenience and safety. Those who have been out on the boat with me know that. The 90 will run her about 37 max at WOT (5000rpm). I seldom run it that hard, generally cruising at about 23-25mph / 34-3700 rpm which gives me around 5 mpg and a realistic operating range of around 125 miles on the 31 gallon inboard poly tank (gotta have a reserve factor!). I do have a fuel/water separator inline - the silver head unit with the Sierra filter hanging beneath it in the rear of the starboard aft battery compartment. They're a must have for any inboard fuel tank.

The unit is a WEMA fuel sending unit. The 1720 has a 31 gallon fuel tank and uses a 5.5" unit.

Jim M thanks! Did you get my other comment with my email inquiring about the wiring diagram?

It was deleted from comments, but found in the notifications. Look for the email.

Ronald, would be glad to. Please send your email address to my channel email. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Nick, the seat was purchased from Bass Pro. Tempress High-Back NaviStyle Boat Seat

ReelinTension - they are RoboCups and are available at Amazon and other retailers. They’re great if you have a vertical rail to grip onto. Screw insert in bottom can be removed to convert them to rod holders if you have the need. They grip very tight and use stainless springs.

Bill, I bought a used SP70 Riptide which needed some work - a new turning motor assembly and eventually a new iPilot head (which gave me a second remote control). If you will send me your email address thru a PM on this channel, I'll send you a pdf of the wiring. As a FYI, I am still using some of the original wiring harness in addition to some new mods that I made. The diagram also shows the 12 & 24v systems, and how I'm using one of the TM batteries in the starboard rear compartment as both a backup for the crank and for powering the non-critical circuits.

Mike, what model bilge pump is installed in your boat? In my 1720 there is a Rule 800gpm bilge pump with a rated amp draw of something like 2.5a. The wire gauge you are using comes into play, but a fuse of 10a should be more than adequate if using 14 -16awg wire. The new bilge pump directions will state what size fuse to use in the circuit.

Jim M Thanks for the quick response. 14ga wire and Rule 500gph. I am hoping it is a bad pump that is blowing the fuse. Fingers crossed. Thanks again. Edit: Got two dig into it today. Found blow fuses on direct battery wire and panel. Put new pump in, new 10a fuses on both feeds and bam, all fixed! Thanks again! Stand by for more questions I’m sure...

Dot, thanks for watching and commenting. It has been several years since I last worked with the original courtesy lights that were on the 1720. I cannot recall how those old light's bulbs were accessed. I replaced those courtesy lights with 3" transom/stern/courtesy lights that can be found in various light outputs on the internet.

@@JimMFishing Hi Jim, thanks for the quick response! I figured it out - you have to unscrew them from the outside. So, one side of mine had no bulb housing at all and the other side I replaced the bulb and it still doesn't work. Good thing we just paid a guy $525 to fix all the electrical in the boat. LOL. We have had our 2004 1720 for about 3 or 4 years, but haven't had it out in at least 3 summers (pandemic and all) so I'm falling back in love with it and realized how much TLC it now needs. The trailer needs a complete re-furb, so I just ordered all of those parts (including leaf springs). Had it out a couple of days ago and it still runs great! Seeing the price of a new one convinces me to fix up the one I have!

Ron, these were factory installed on my 2002 model. They work fairly well when kept clean. Regardless, on these boats, if a heavy person is standing in the stern, you will have water enter and get wet feet. I bought some drain plugs and plug the drains before each trip. The boat stays dry and should we get water inside, the drains can easily be removed while on plane to let any water out.

Thanks Jim, mine is 2009 and has hoses hooked from scuppers straight to the drain on the deck, guess I'll have to install valves on each pipe, was going to install these but if you still got wet feet, no reason too, I fish a lot in the colder months, so I definitely want dry feet. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.

Ron, you might try posting on the KWBF to see if any members have come up with a solution for plugging the deck type drains used on the newer design.

Will do, thanks Jim

Hi Richard. Congrats on your newly acquired 1720! Both sets of lights were purchased on eBay. I copied these item headers from the purchase history to hopefully help you to locate them and give them a look over. MARPAC LED SIDE LIGHTS RED/GREEN NAVIGATION BOW LIGHTS STAINLESS STEEL 7-6595 2x Marine Led Round Stern White Transom Mount Stern Anchor Navigation Light Remember that whenever you are working with marine electrical systems, to always use adhesive heat shrink crimp connectors and tinned copper stranded wire. Solder connections are not recommended for marine connections.

Audie, it is a slip in. Thanks for watching and subscribing.

JC TOXIC WARRIORS - JC, I cut a 4” access hole in the forward wall of the anchor locker and thru- bolted the puck to the deck. This works well for this series of 1720, not so well for the redesigned newer model with the anchor locker at the same level as the forward hatch. You need to check the alignment of both halves of the mount as you may need to shun the deck to get proper alignment. Put tape around the raw edge of the access hole to save yourself from fiberglass fibers.

@@JimMFishing when ever you get a chance can you send me a picture of the hole you made? If you put a cover on it that's fine I just want to see the location. My boat is a 2001 or 2002 it looks just like yours. I also acquired a minn kota edge foot control bow mount trolling motor. The only thing is it's the 36" shaft do you think that length will work? You can email me at jimmyxx42@yahoo.com if that's easier for the pic. Thanks again Jim

JC TOXIC WARRIORS - a 36” shaft would be too short. While it could work in flat calm conditions, any surface action and you’ll be sucking air at the prop. A 54” shaft would be recommended.

JC TOXIC WARRIORS - a pic really doesn’t help to show anything. It is a 4” hole as high up as is reasonable.

It is a WEMA (now KUS) brand, 5.5" in length.

Joshua, I can send the wiring diagram but will need your email address.

ikesans, thanks for watching and subscribing. If you’ll give me your email addy, I’ll forward a copy. I too have not figured out whether PMs can be sent thru YT.

Ike, email sent. I deleted your post with your email address for your privacy.

Thank you!

Ike, have you checked out www.keywestboatsforum.com? Great people on there with a wealth of information.

I haven't but will check it out. Thanks for the schematic PDF file. It is very clearly laid out and the Blue Sea Systems hardware looks well made. I've been laying away info on 1720 harness wiring as much of it in the existing system is getting very corroded. New wire all around, eventually. Any information about the seat would be appreciated. Did the mount-to-deck plate come in that shape and size or was it modified? Getting tired of running the TM from the standing position. : - ) @@JimMFishing

Thanks for the compliment. The wheel was on the KW when I bought it. And yes, it sure makes it look classier!

I used 4000, which I have since found out has a higher adhesive rating than 4200. If I had known, I would have used 4200. Whatever you do, avoid using 5200 if in your wildest dreams you might have to undo something, especially on these lights. You will destroy them if you use 5200 and ever have to remove one.

@@JimMFishing Thanks for the info. 4200 it is! :)

31 gallons. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Yes, Optima Blue Tops.

Would you recommend the AGM sealed type over the water filled for a TM application?

@@MS-kr2yg Yes, my personal preference. I feel AGM batteries by design (compared to wet cell batteries) are more suited to the vibrations / slams of recreational craft of less than ~30' when running thru chop, short duration swells, etc.

Tony, there are plenty of 1720's out there with 115hp outboards. Too stern heavy for my tastes and I don't need that much extra power. The 90 is the perfect outboard for this hull.

@@JimMFishing think I'll stick with a 90 hp 4stroke

I have a 2000 key west 1720

Rich, If you mean the fuel hose from tank to water/separator to outboard, this is rather easy. Purchase an excess length of 3/8" fuel hose rated A1-15, detach old hose from anti-siphon valve on tank and from water/separator filter. Insert a double ended hose barb into new and old hose to connect the two. With a helper, pull from the tank end end as you push from the separator end until you have the new hose in place. When securing the hose to a hose barb, lubricate both the inside of the hose and the barb fitting with 2 cycle oil. Also use two hose clamps to secure the hose to the anti-siphon valve at the tank. This is a requirement, not a suggestion, and be sure that the clamp is 1/4" from the end of the barb so that it doesn't cause the barb to eventually cut thru the hose from the inside. Only one clamp is required for above deck connections. If you are referring to the fuel fill hose, you are in for a challenge. I suggest you research this task at www.keywestboatsforum.com. Several members have posted detailed pictures of the task, which is not an easy project due to the foam injected into our boats.

Thomas, thanks for watching and for commenting. The two plugs, if you are referring to those seen at 12:30 in the video, are used to plug the thru transom drain holes for the self bailing deck. That is, when I remember to use them. The bilge plug is of the screw in type. These boats are designed to self bail any water on the deck of the boat. Because the boat does not have a lot of clearance above the waterline, any additional weight in the rear of the boat can push the drain holes below the waterline allowing some water intrusion. Plugging those holes keeps the boat deck dry regardless of where the weight is in the boat. If I do find water accumulating back there, I pull the plugs while on plane to drain the water and reinstall the plugs.

Hey Jim; thanks so much for replying :) I have a 2002 KW as well and the water line below the transom plugs has been my nemesis. My question was around the white things on either side of the engine mount at 11:12. Thanks again; Thomas

Thomas, those faded yellow plastic housings are the scuppers for the thru-transom drains. The scupper housings contain essentially a ping pong ball that will float up if underwater and seal the hole the water drains thru. They work a lot better when new than they do at their current age.

Great video! Do you have part numbers on the pedestal seat and mount? Thank you!

Ha ha! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks, Sean. I've added a few more since making the video which I'll get around to showing on another video sometime soon.