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Add a P38 can opener to the key ting on the lid! Then you always have a can opener and it stays a little cooler than the key ring making the lid easier to pick up.
I did something like this with my Army canteen cups. I put ice water in a container, measured a cup and poured it in. In a few minutes you could see a condensation line. I marked it with a sharpie marker. I added another cup and so on until I reached the top. I use a nail punch to put a small dent on each Mark. Thirty years later my son used the as a boyscout.
@@bobketterer9119 little did I realize how important it was but our boy scout troops were ran by active duty service members (one of the perks of being a dependent). We were essentially sponsored by the military from camp gear to C rations and MREs. I later realized that we got early basic training and professional survival training. We also played a lot of capture the flag, just like infantry units.
An interesting technique to help prevent deformation of the metal while creating the indentations is you can fill it with water and freeze the water after making where to make the indentations. The frozen water will help support the shape of the metal while pounding on it to create the indentations.
I have been using this Stanley set as well as the larger set that includes the bowls and I have never melted the plastic tabs on the lids of either of them. I camp or backpack with them at least once or twice a week. Wait, that handle on the Stanley is made for hanging on a tripod. Once the lid is placed on the pot, close the handle over the top and the slider bar on the handle is where you attach it to the chain from the tripod so that it hangs level.
I literally melted that stupid green plastic, the first time I used the Stanley, a couple months ago. I was pretty ticked. Why wouldn't they just put silicone?
It’s great to see other people using ingenuity to upgrade something with mods & repurpose other things especially in this manner. Keep up the awesome videos!
I used a small gauge dog choker coller and some small "S" hooks for the pot hanger. You can place it inside the pot for storage and it wont slide on the handle to a corner.
Great mods on this great kit and for the price it can't be beat. I have this same kit and I love it. I bought two UZO lids from Amazon and the lift rings actually stay upright. I love the bail mod to hang the pot on a tripod. I bought a titanium 450ml cup with lid and it nests well with the Stanley pot.
With the key ring installed on the lid you can just fold the handle over the lid and lock it in place with the key ring sticking up, loop a cord through it and suspend it from a tripod. A light chain with a hook will work too but I like using a loop of #36 bank line going up to an adjustable toggle. No drilling and bail handle required or removing the handle for balance. Works great.
Good video. I like the way you modified the cook pot. I got mine to hang well by adding a short piece of TIG wire that hooks under the lip and on the handle (no holes)
I'm not sure if someone commented, but 1cup is approx. at the lower wire handle connection and 2 cups is approx. at the upper wire connection. Nice video.
Great video! On the key chain ring mod- before I put the top on, I thread the key ring a little bit forward so it stands up. Never had an issue with heat, but on a campfire, the ring will be up so you can put a stick or something through it to lift the lid.
use a center punch on the Stanley set first. Helps keep the drill bit from wandering about on you. Don't forget to debur the holes and wire hanger to remove the sharp edges. Use a Dremel debur tool for this.
Little tip on the lid tab. The pin will push out easy and you don’t have to cut it and risk damaging the loop. If you do damage the loop, a small eyebolt can go back in place.
Good idea. I used a Dremel tool to scratch the level marks on the small cups. I have two sets of those you have for demonstration too. I might modify the Stanley cup the same way to hang up on the tripod. Excellent video. 😎
One suggestion, on the coat hanger bail handle you made for hanging, you will find you have to play around with balancing it when hanging, one way to beat that is to put a small kink, dead center on the top part where it hangs. Think small upside down letter "U", this way you have it center balanced when hung from a chain, bar, or other method, without the sliding from one side or the other.
@@Iridium242 Better yet, just make a triangle instead of the rectangle and "jog". easy peasy. ; ) Also, instead of perpendicular or parallel with the handle, drill the holes 45 degrees offset. that way you can still use for pouring, AND you can rest the wire bail on the handle so it doesn't hang into the fire or coals. (which way you offset the holes would depend what handed you are for most comfort. : )
Great mods brotha . if you drill the holes on the ends near the handle and across the holes wont be in the same area when you pour with the handle on.....just my 2 cents
I think that these are good ideas and will aid in accuracy and facilitate food prep. Regarding the cup, I would prabably use a dremmel with a sanding wheel and score the marks in. Thx for sharinf
Your system looks great. I added my heat diffuser I already had to the silverware stove ( great ideal 👍)Using a stainless steel plummer chain wrapped works great for hanging. But I digress for I just don't want to drill holes in my beautiful Stanley cook set.
I put a bend in the center of my bail to suspend it better. I added a scrub pad, 2 shop towels or old wash towels, a sterno, knife fork and spoon, small container of dawn soap. All fits inside kit.
Iridium, after watching your modifications to your cook set, you’re right on. The only thing that I would add to the cook set lid idea is to place a small wooden stick into the ring and just leave it while cooking. When you want to lift the ring... just raise the ring with the stick. Just a thought.
Oh, and I thought of something else: if you put the two holes for the bail, put one hole in where the handle sets and the next one of course on the opposite side, instead of 90* to the handle connection. That might allow you to keep the cook pot level and still allow the handle to be used to help lift the bail and pot from the pot support. Just a thought!
If you don't want the ring to get hot you can partially slide the metal of the lid into the ring and it Will stand up by itself and not get hot. And a fisherman's jaw opener will work with the holes and the lid will work with it if you put two slots in the lid. It's an awesome little kit we use ours all the time.
@@Iridium242 FWIW, I did a fair bit of research, as I needed to weld a lot of Li-Ion batteries. After hours going through the forums, I ended up buying one that comes as an Arduino kit from a guy in Germany. House electrical outlets cannot supply enough current to operate a spot welder properly, so this one is powered by a car battery. I've been using it for a couple of months, and I am happy with it. I have also noticed when watching other videos from some of the more experienced vloggers, they are using the same one. There's lots of info in many of the forums.
I like this mod and if you open the handle slightly you can add a center bend in the top of the handle so that it will hang on center from a tripod hanging system so that it will not slide while a full boil like square top handles have a habit of doing. Keep up the good work and hope to see more of things on your chanel
Hello, I have seen her video! Thank you for showing me. I noticed that they drill 2 holes for their pot hanger. it is to recommend the 2 holes to turn 90 degrees further so nothing can run out of holes. or you buy yourself a mug of pathfinder. this is already done so they have to tinker before.
To anyone taking the tab off use a torch or set the whole thing in the fire and pull it off when it starts to melt that way you don't worry about breaking the tab mount
I used the Plastic tab A number of times in the Field. Never had a Problem, do like your Concept for that MOD. I have had the cup for sense 2012. My Stanley works great I do not need to drill holes in it. If I should have to MOD that I'm sure Ill have a Gerber and a spare Key ring.
You know, I always hate to be "That Guy" because nobody wants to be "That Guy", but, did you happen to notice the marks you made on the tape almost corresponded directly with the wire handles where they attached to the cup? You did say if they weren't exact it wasn't the end of the world, even though that is what you're prepping for LOL.... NONETHELESS, your cook set is extremely BADASS!!! Thanks for taking the time to help others. It's people like you that the world needs more of.
I made a video a few years ago on the modifications that I made to the Stanley cook pot I took the plastic piece off put a key ring on there and I open the key ring and slide it back just a little bit so that way It will stand up I also got a fish mouth spreader drilled two little holes like you did and I also put a couple a slits in the lid so that way you could use it with the lid on while you’re cooking
Im not positive, but i believe the coat hanger is coated with a rust preventer, a plastic of some sort, may want to burn it off before using it for food just a thought
If the handle was u shaped it would fit in the pot, and a notch on each side of the cup would hold the wire up. Just adding my two cents to an already great idea..
No holes in your Stanley hack! Instead of drilling holes (I did it and wasn’t happy), you can use a 3 foot length of lite chain (1/8 inch) to wrap around the Stanley below the handle. You can easily hang the Stanley. I carry a 3 foot and an 18 inch section of chains with hooks at the ends. The longer chain wraps around the Stanley and the short chain wraps around 3 pieces of wood to make a tripod over the fire.
Yes. Got to figure out how to post it. The chain has “S” hooks at the ends. Wrap the 3ft section around the pot, connect the s hook to the chain to form a circle. Then connect the other end S hook to the other side of the pot. This will create a loop above the pot. I use the 18” section of chain to hook the loop holding the pot to a 3 leg pot stand above the flames.
Just make a triangle instead of the rectangle and "jog". easy peasy. ; ) Also, instead of perpendicular or parallel with the handle, drill the holes 45 degrees offset. That way you can still use for pouring, AND you can rest the wire bail on the handle so it doesn't hang into the fire or coals. (which way you offset the holes would depend what handed you are for most comfort. : )
Triangle is a good alternative. Agree with orientation of the holes. Front to back --- in line with the handle, rather than side to side. I don't want to drizzle coffee down my chin, if my lips miss covering the hole. :-) Plus, you don't have to take the handle off. Simple close the hanle, with or without the lid, to help balance pot over the fire. BTW, a bend the center of the coat hanger handle a bit, to help the pot stay centered when hanging on a cord. something like this .......^........
Great video, avid follower, always tune in. Would it be better to drill the holes just above the existing handle, and opposite. This wouldn't affect the pouring capability when using the handle. Plus this way, you could keep the existing handle on and have the hanging system. On the hanging wire, I'd make that more of a triangle shape, it'd then fit inside the container after use! Just a few thoughts. But that's what's great about your videos, they inspire thought 👍
I saw a video a while back that the guy cut an extra notch in the metal plate that the handle attaches to about half way up and the handle locked in position directly above the lid letting him hang the pot from the existing handle. I just thought it was cool and thought I'd pass that idea on
The Key Ring Will Stand Up, If You Don't Run It All The Way Around. Leave The Tab On The Lid In The Slot of The Key Ring. There Is A Way To Renotch The Handle Lock That Will Lock The End of The Handle Over The Center of The Cup.
Mark 9:50 The lid ring is good idea. Can be better if the first half turn can be bent so that it spiral out by about 1/2”. The modified tip will forced against the lid channel to self stand, or fold down during transport.
You could also add the marks using a 9v battery, a sponge and salt water. Use the tape as a resist with a little line cut for your graduation. You'll acid etch your lines into the steel. Downside being that you're removing metal rather than moving it.
It'll work an no damage, all good. For 5 bucks hard deal to beat, the keychain mod is gtg, the bail is also gtg when you make it out of brass coat hanger
I use rice to do this, just btw. A little easier. And I have also recycled some plastic packaging (anything clear works, I've used peanut butter jars and take-out containers) marked with a grease pen for a travel measuring cup.
I noticed that you lined up the wire holder 90° from the handle bracket. Did you have a reason in mind for doing it that way instead of inline with the handle? Do you plan to ever use the hanger and handle together for pouring?
No real reason, its just how I did my other one, Never even thought about using the hanger and handle for pouring but in the future if I get another one, I will have to see if I can give it a try that way, its actually a good idea.
First thing I thought as well. Put the holes in line with the handle it would make pouring much easier. When you're pouring with the handle, you wont be pouring through the hole.
Great upgrades. I also appreciate your not wasting time with the obvious steps as you go along. Some things can easily be done off camera. We can imagine what you’ve done. Great job with this video. Thank you
If one has a decent metal fabricating shop or welder in their locale, they can obtain and substitute a piece of stainless steel TIG welding filler rod for the piece of coat hanger wire. Being rustproof, it will look better longer and not stain other gear it contacts. Personally, I would add shallow angle bends leading to a centered apex in the handle segment of the bail. Bent thus, the bail would be less prone to slipping to one side or other when suspended from limb.
I didn't have time to read all your comments but something having to do with the tri pod handle you did. If you measured out what the addition of the cup on the bottom, you could leave the handle on and form it to lock the cup in place with it. That way no bending while packing the wire handle in your pack alone.
Bit late but great mods. The key ring is my favorite mod. Put the lid on and lock it, hang it from the ring great idea for over a fire. Still the best kit for a perfect price.
Great ideas! Why not drill the pot hanging holes above the handle and on the front instead of the sides? That way there is no need to remove the handle and you can still pour the contents of the pot without spilling through the holes you drilled.
Good, simple bail mod. I think the only thing I’d do different is rotate the holes 90°. That way I can still use the folding handle and comfortably pour to the side without dribbling out the holes. Thanks for the tip.
I have an engraving pen and a small tool & die set , that I wonder if it would be better to use and you could actually mark each line with the increment of measure .
Hint: when drilling metal, use firm pressure and low rpm's and a little oil. High speed only heats and lessens the temper on the drill bit. Great video.
I put a paper towel around the bottom of the Stanley pot and then slide it all into the cup. This keeps it from rattling and gives you a paper towel to use as needed.
🎉 Does Stanley have a Stainless Steel Single Walled Water Bottle similar to the Pathfinder Self Reliance Outfitters or recent Corporals Corner Water bottle.??
A auto radiator hose clamp. Would do the honors of holding the pot with a stainless bale from stock. Then when cooled remove the clamp and store bail in pot.
