Finally edited the video from installing the DRO Z scale. So far so good using the machine with it- just needs a few tweaks and we're in business! Contact me: AlwaysSunnyintheShop@gmail.com
Aaron, please pay NO attention to those that love to hold on to "outhouses", "mules and wagons" and "rockin chairs that are as uncomfortable as sitting on a cactus, etc, etc, and ETC. What you did today is exactly what the manufacturer would have done if these digital gems were available when they built it. One of my pet-peaves is when people go "gaa gaa" over beat up "OLD" so-called "antiques"; and blast people that want to improve the terrible flaws in the them. You have done an outstanding job on this Arron. Across the "pond" they would say "Absolutely Brilliant". VERY few would have ever done the job; as you did. Keep up the good work kind Sir.
I think it's adorable that there are people getting upset because you're improving the functionality of your lathe. Some people just aren't happy unless they're unhappy about something I guess.
A dro is good to have but it doesn't beat / help if you don't have a quality machine to begin with ( my recommendation from personal experience is to get some of the good old heavy Russian ones. Not the new ones but the old ones that's still in good condition ( someting about those castings just makes them the best. Where I use to be we had a few ones with dro and 2 old Russian ones with no dro and the old Russians could take a heavyer cut and was more precise then the newer ones with the dro)
@@flikflak24 I installed a half micron chinesium scale to my Moriseiki's x-axis, seems like the scale is still the bottleneck in terms of accuracy. There's a 5x more sensitive option available but I don't need it really. Half micron is about a fifth of a tenth (1/50000") if you're from US.
I've briefly tested it and I get diameters finished within plus or minus 2 microns so the scale resolution should be 5x finer if I actually were to do work that accurate. User errors can already now cause much error compared to the resolution and accuracy so I'm not bothering.
@@MF175mp no im not from the us.im from erup ( denmark ) so im use to millimeter ( though i speak in desimels and not it text. so saying half micron dosent mean anything to me but if you say it like 0.0005mm then i understand what you mean / say ) anyway best regards from here
Great video mate onwards and upwards that lathe is now a whole new beast lol can’t wait for new projects to happens ignore the moaners and the jealous people great job and there is always someone that is never satisfied with what your doing keep on doing your thing we like your videos stay safe all the best god bless
Aaron, Such a pleasure to see you back producing videos. You doing a beautiful job on your DRO install. I’m sure you’ll be happy to have it done and expect you’ll get many years of use from it. Once I started using one I never looked back. Cheers
Beautiful Job Aaron... The addition of the DRO on your Monarch will serve you for many years of happy machining. Loved watching the Roll-In Band Saw in action. Thank you for sharing your experiences, there is always something to learn from you videos. Please stay safe and well
I don’t know why anyone would be upset about putting a DRO on a old machine. If you are using your machine to make money, just the amount of time someone would save having a DRO which is more money in your pocket. A lathe as big as this Monarch is not a hobby lathe. This lathe was built to do work and make a living with. Great job.
I would mount the readout box to the carriage. That way it is always in view, no matter how long the shaft. Makes the cables stay with the platform as well. Just the power cord has to move. But your machine, your rules.
I've gone back and forth on the location. It seems opinions are split 50-50 and love one way or the other. I can always change it later if I decide I'd rather it be on the carriage. I certainly have plenty of room!
Hi Aaron. I see you used the Big Gator tap block but you must not have the Big Gator drill block. Helps to make your drilling and tapping perpendicular to your material. Been really missing any content from you lately so glad to see this one. Just love your vids. Merry Xmas to you and the family.
Why should backlash mess with the readings of the DRO? Normally the benefit of the DRO is its not reading how much backlash you have. But just where the saddle/carrage is 😊 And, do yourself a favour. Put the display on a swing arm on the carriage. You will love it there, instead on the headstock.
There are machinist that find a DRO not as useful as others do on a lathe, I am one, preferring the old TravAdial, and the machines regular controls. I think it depends on what you are doing. We have the model 60 at work, it is a solid machine. Monarch made many exotic attachments for the model 60 and 61, and there was fierce competition between the makers in that era. As odd as it may seem, I just removed a DRO from an old lathe I just bought, put it on a milling machine, and installed a TravAdial on the lathe. Just personal preference.
Glad to see your back, some time ago we were conversing about the grease and bearing behind the drive pulley and I finally got that resolved , I also have a DRO that I will be installing on my series 61, so this episode came at the right time for me. Thanks for the videos! (Metal Shop teacher in Gilbert, AZ)
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop yes it did, apparently the wizards at Monarch designed the mechanism with a great amount of free play, I assume in a production shop this was never a problem even if you could detect it over the background noise of other machines, however in my shop it drove me nuts trying to find the source of the clicking, I finally used a highly technical method of pinpointing the source,.. a piece of heater hose held up to my ear, works like a charm!! Just a caution,....if you decide to use this method, use aquarium sealer,..its a lot more rubbery than regular sealant, and place at 3 points (120) degrees, seems to work for my problem so far!
I see people being too concerned about how accurately these things are mounted. What I’ve found is that there is far more leeway than thought. Worrying about thousands isn’t required. With these glass scale models, there is actually a few millimeters leeway in alignment available. The read head is able to move a good three millimeters up and down and there is also about two millimeters sideways movement available. So a slight misalignment is fine. It’s built into the scales. Magnetic scales need to be mounted more carefully, and don’t even bother with capacitive models as they aren’t that accurate and read too slowly for real-time use. They’re good for setting fence distances, but not for actual machining.
@@backlash00 I still occasionally misplace the decimal point & usually end up with a over size hole or skim too much off, at least at my age now,I can now blame my eyes...
Gday Aaron, beautiful job mate and an awesome addition to the machine, as for the negative feedback from others, it’s your machine and I believe you are spot on in saying if Monach had this technology back in the 50’s then it would it have been offered, I wish it was standard on every machine, Merry Christmas to you and your family from all us here at Matty’s Workshop, thank you for all the great content throughout 2020, let’s hope in 2021 the woypr gets back to normal, Cheers Matty
Good job! It’s not a museum piece your using it! Improve it as you like. I know of one for sale like yours for $1,300, if I did not have my Axelson I would snap it up!.
tool steel for a good finish on ally with a dash of paraffin on a brush Something you won't have come across is if you tip the mill head with a single point fly cutter you will get a fantastic finish as the tool will not drag merry xmas from the UK
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Have you looked in the machine bible as to why you would tip the head? Also get in the habit of using a machinist brush to flick the swarf as it keeps your fingers a brush length out of range...
Aaron, great job. Very skillfull install. A DRO will improve any machine whither it be a drill press, lathe or mill. I like the look of that marker you use. Mind telling me what it is?
Very nice install, always appreciate the time you take to think through your layout and steps of the process. I am curious about the tap wrench you were using - would you mind sharing what brand it is and any thoughts about serviceability/durability?
It’s an old Greenfield Tap and Die ratcheting tap handle. I’ve only had it a couple of years (estate sale find), but it’s been great to have. It is a model 338.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop thanks for responding. I looked high and lo on the inter webs trying to find a similar style; yours has a pretty unique directional lever on it that looks like it would work a lot better than the other ones I found. I will have to keep an eye out for one.
A tenth dro is actually a "middle class" dro. Not the most insensitive and sufficient for most lathe work but there are readouts with so much finer resolution that it's almost insane. Maybe for a surface grinder or some other ultra precision machine?
are you going to paste some nicely cut squares of aluminum foil duct tape over the top of the allen set screws to keep dirt from clogging them over the next decade if you ever need to remove them.. perhaps some aluminum anti seize on the screws first. or perhaps some Permatex 85420 from the parts store.. AKA Hylomar. never ever dries.. most solvents proof.
That's a very good idea- it may even be worth just covering the spar and face of the scale with foil tape- won't leave a residue if I need to peel it off, and it will help shed oil and filth away from the scale.
They probably got it that flat for better stress controle doing cut or the very least then the heat reformation ( how much it moves and twist when it starts Hearing up. Like moter heat spreading or moving back and forth over and over agen ) is more Equal since when SoMe parts is thinner then other parts it change a different amount and the machine is less accurate But that's just some of my theory's as a fully educated machinest
