I'm Aaron. It's Always Sunny in my Arizona shop. Check back for projects on the Monarch metal lathe, Sharp Milling machine, restoring bench grinders, drill presses, bench vises, and more.
Why in the world did you buy a solid piece ! You could have gone to McMaster carr and bought one closer to the I'd and probably. 6 inches long , nice work but a waste of time and money
the ways is many and different, i use a center drillbit in the chuck and set my tool to match the point of the drillbit - fast,easy and works perfect for me
The 3 videos on the Lisle 91000 grinder were very helpful as I am missing some of the same parts on one I bought recently. One suggestion: instead of calling a part "this guy" use the name found in the instruction manual--it would help avoid any confusion.
Is that the original color for that monarch? I have one that was built late 12kk from 1940 that was repainted gray, but under the gray is that color green that you have.
My method for using the foam is to first use the razor knife to cut the outside profile, then I use my dremel tool with a base plate and a straight bit to create the recess. With this setup it's easy to cut recesses of varying depths for tools with complex shapes. The bottom of the recesses will be smooth and consistent.
Love the size of your machine and I think the color is perfect. Someone spent a good amount of time buffing the chrome handles, just beautiful. I am looking around now for a similar machine. Thank You, Ric
A comment if I may? That skyhook base attachment into those thin cast iron flanges on your top slide, combined with the the significant lever arms and the mass of the chuck is a recipe for disaster. Do not be surprised if one day the whole assembly tears out - with the associated tears.
Right tool for the job kinda situation. There’s nowhere near enough torque to take a .25 depth of cut on a lathe that size. We have a Puma 400 CNC lathe with an 18” chuck and I wouldn’t try taking .250 on that either. On a big machine with a lot of horsepower and a lot of torque, you can take .250-.300 all day long. But on a smaller machine all you’re going to do is tear things up and get them out of alignment. Best course of action if trying to save time and get a job done faster is to ramp up the surface footage and feed and lighten up the depth of cut.
Side note. I noticed the lock ring on your tool holder adjustment uses a setscrew instead of the common double nut setup. Great idea as I find the double nut often changes the setting when I lock it. Thanks, I'll try it.
Thanks for making the video. I'm working on a Roll-In Saw table at the moment - same issue. Can you explain how you attached the steel bars to the table and to each other? Thanks..
Hi Aaron. I’m the proud new owner of a series 61 20x78 monarch. Looks like my situation will be similar to yours as far as the rigging goes. I’d like to get some more information about the skates you used to bolt to the machine. My plan is to get it on skates and drag it onto a tilt deck trailer. The trailer has a 12k winch on it. Do you think this is doable? I guess second option will be to hire a flat bed wrecker like you did, but I’m thinking if it’s on skates I don’t see any reason the tilt deck wouldn’t work. Thoughts? Thanks
Hi Nick. I made a video on making the skates I ended up using to move my Monarch that you can check out. If the drop deck trailer is long enough then I would think you'd be fine using it. It was pretty nerve-wracking to winch this much weight up the wrecker, so I'd definitely go with a trailer if it were an option.
Hey Aaron, Just saw your vid here and thanks for posting as I am looking to buy a six jaw for my newly acquired 13" Southbend. I'm looking at the Pratt-Bernerd and the Bison, but maybe I can only afford the Shars..😳 I'll post a vid when I get one.. Take care, Razor!
Very nicely done. Every Wilton I have worked on has quality control issues. Apparently it doesn't make them any less collectible, and they can definitely be used.
What happened to the tool post mounting stud could have produced a sudden failure of the tool post during large DOC cuts. If the tool post mounting were to snap off, the tool post and lots more would become a lethal projectile. If any threaded fastener feels "soft or stretched" when torqued, remove it if possible and give it the Naval float test.. or put that ALL those threaded parts into the circular file never to find their way on to any mech device ever again. Metals are far from solid, they are more like rubber and deforms a lot more than folk realize or accept. What happened to the tool post mounting stud, the yield point of the material was exceeded. Once this has happened, it is ripe for failure.. Take the time to watch this video on metals and material science of what yield point means and why materials behave in the ways they do. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WSRqJdT2COE.html Never skimp or take for granted threaded parts or any parts made of metal or similar materials, knowledge and understanding of materials is an essential aspect of machine tool work.
