Installed a pair of these today (4x15") in my cabin home theater. These blow the monolith 16's away that I had before. I am kinda a bass head, and feel these are overkill, I love it! They are on a concrete slab and still shake the ground. The pressure at low hz is a new experience, highly recommend!
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude After some time with them, I find myself using thx mode 90% of the time. When I want them to flex, I use extended mode, but I can only take so much of it, after 30 minutes I get beat down as drywall dust rains down on my subs and nails back out of 2x4 framing in the basement. Had to use dedicated 15a circuits as the pair was tripping a single 20 amp 12/2 30' run circuit. The ports move huge amounts of air, so much it can spook you during a suspenseful movie. Aside from having 2 warranty issues (taken care of my Monolith, zero cost), I really enjoy all 460lbs of them. I noticed, placement of these is Huge, against the wall was no good for me, both subs are almost 2' away from the walls in my room to sound right. Music needs to be rebassed to really enjoy these to their potential in my opinion, easy to find though.
@@Dat_Sun how would you recommend rebasing the music to fully enjoy them? I have a pair of monolith 16s and they’ve disappointed me for two months while I try to get them dialed in
@@sebastian7539 I use RU-vid premium, there is hundreds if not thousands of rebassed and LFE music available to download. I had a pair of monolith 16's before these. Both malfunctioned at separate times in different ways. It's on my other channel Granby Homesteading. I was unimpressed with the 16's. The M215's blows the 16's away, at double the size.
@@Dat_Sun Sorry to hear that. Hoping the same doesn't happen to me. Mine only had a configuration issue which I've now sorted out. All they needed was a line driver for higher input voltage. I used the cleanbox pro and my Monoliths came to life! Much happier with them now, just wish Monoprice would've told me this and saved me tens if not hundreds of hours spent troubleshooting.
Putting them on their sides will actually enhance the bass a little I would think because both woofers are closer to the floor. And for even more bass put them in the corner of the room. Walls will amplify bass even further. One more thing-as far as bass goes-size matters!
Something like this is ideal for people who have big spaces. Not saying theaters, but some of us have wide open areas. My living room is open to my kitchen and dinning room (open concept), so I have about 6000 cubic sq ft worth of air space to contend with. I was using a wimpy polk psw505 for ages and it was grotesquely under powered for the area. In the past year I finally got around to buying a SVS PC4000 which has completely changed the bass game in my house. That being said, I would kill to get a second one as well because even with the one it doesn't completely fill the space. Now this I could see doing a very awesome job of filling a space full of bass, my only reservation would be you would probably be better off buying two separate 15's to better help evenly fill the space. Or you could just buy two of these lol
I don't really get the whole subwoofer crawl thing. I mean it sounds good in theory but if you like me and your home theater is your living room, there's not a lot of placement options for my 2 subs. Are people ending up with the subs in weird places doing this? Or is this just for dialing in small adjustments like how far from a wall or a few inches away or closer to a corner?
Would you be able to tell me how you have yours hooked up? As in your wall outlets output, are they dedicated, reciever output, lfe or xlr. I cant get enough juice to mine. Ty for your time.
Run some curtain shaker through that. It's full of 13Hz fundamentals. Most non servo systems have a hard time dealing with it at window flexing volumes.
Did you have to turn the gain up on these? I cranked mine all the way on the amp and then have in at -5.0 in my Denon receiver settings to get sufficient output.
I have 2 of these in my dedicated theater. I also had to turn the gain all the way up and have my processor at 0- +2 depending on content. I feel like something has to be off for the output to be so low. Not thrilled but haven’t had a chance to call monolith.
Nice video, an this 8 bit end-music is awesome, thank you. If you ever get the chance to test (or hear) a JL Audio Fathom® f113v2-GLOSS (or anything bigger like Gotham) do it! The frequency spectrum is a linear line (!) and I have never heard such a precise, dry and controlled punch. I heard this thing in a dolby atmos reference cinema in the 150.000 € class. It was absolutely amazing. We compared 1 Fathom® f113v2-GLOSS against 3 SVS PB 16 Ultra (in this cinema). Best scene was in John Wick part 1 the disco scene. No chance for SVS to win this, I could not believe this. The PB 16s have been so "unprecise" and "uncontrolled" against the Fathom I really can't describe it. If you have the chance try to listen to a Fathom or Gotham you won't regret it. Kind regards from Germany
I demoed 2 fathom F113's. They have like 1/3 the output of a PB16 ultra at 20hz. They aren't very high output subs, they are good for their size though. Rythmik subs have more output, better sound quality and are cheaper. They basically made JL Audio subs obsolete.
If I was going for the best and had alot of money I would've got JTR subs. I think the FV18 is tremendous bang for the buck. I mean $3,500 for duals with the same or better performance than PB16's which is $5,000 a pair.
@@Slickman2006 Not just performance, but sound quality will be much higher. Put in high damping and experience bass that sounds like more than just noise. It takes some getting used to, but once you do its addicting.
is it really worth it in a room that size though? because I imagine the real point of something like this is for bigger theaters. Or is the sound quality that much better (not just louder but actually better) or is a smaller subwoofer similar quality?
I know this video is NOT about this but 7:26 you talked about subwoofer crawl, but isn't there better ways to do that these days? Check out Home Theater Gurus Ep. 10 Alternative to subwoofer crawl that actually works Worked with me and saves your knees and nerves 😁
@@monkeymouse1403 i moved an arendal sub 1.5 upstairs, it was a nightmare. It was about the same width as the stairs and it wouldn’t be possible with two people because of the lack of length. It’s about 100lbs. I moved it one step at a time and rested in between while holding it in the slot port
9:40 what's that bookshelf speaker on your far right in front of the blinds? Looks very cool whatever it is! Great video have no idea why anyone would want one if these...
Can you please compare it to SVS PB-16? I'm particularly interested in quality vs quantity opinion, transient response and the max SPL, at least for the 20Hz+ region.
O that means youre local in SoCal lol One of the few positives of living in California these days, means we dont have to pay crazy prices for shipping ha
I'm surprised they didn't make the Xmax stroke more than 25mm with these drivers, so I guess that's 50mm in both directions. With that power wouldn't it be limiting on the excursions once the volume reaches high output on the sub 20hz frequencies. Looking at the REL NO.25 driver this has a 4inch excursion as well as some bass arrays that are used at gigs with 15 or 18 inch drivers which use the extra long throw excursion. How do the 215 Monoloths fair when your system pushes out 100db and over when the sub bass frequencies really hammer the excursion movement to the max. Either way, this is still a really cool Dual sub.
The monolith M-215 is $2500 each and for 2 set is $5000 and you get 4 15inch, same price as 2 SVS PB16 ultra $5000? For price and sound which would you prefer?
@@ThatHomeTheaterDudedefine quality. Monolith will absolutely destroy SVS in the low & ultra low frequency range. For home theatre app, this isn't even a close competition.
@HTD I have a question, I noticed your elevation speakers are not up front with you system, where should they be placed? I also have them upfront too but I'm thinking I want to pull them forward about 3ft from the front wall above where I'm sitting? What is your nickel and dime advice you can give me? Thank you sir
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude my reasons is more is better more object of sound the better and these 15 inch subs cant hit 7hz for the black hawk down helicopter scene. $7.5k for dual. So pair these with a goldenear reference center, triton one.r towers x6, 1 in ceiling sub next to the voice of god speaker, and a monolith htp-1 16ch processor with 3 sub outs and get 3 mini dsp balanced 2x4 you got your self the holy grail of a 9.9.6 set up bro no joke. Emotiva has all the amp power you'll need. I say get 3 to 4 emotiva amps, dual s7201, 2 svs dipole in rs, 6 invisa 650 in ceiling speakers. You are basically set for the next decade or 2. For the s7201 you'll need at least an earthworms mic.
sad thing is you can get way better sound from Sunfire subs then this M215 lol .....deeper sound hard hitting sound. Sunfire subs dont need sub-woofer crawl and work just about anywhere you place them. With 2700w RMS you can bet your bottom dollar these subs will shake apart your home. lol
@@tansanite09 ne ging damals irgendwie nicht durch hab mittlerweile 2 klipsch r115 sw auch absolut mega ausreizen eigentlich unmöglich wenn man es nicht gewohnt ist
@@feuerfaustace3199 ich bau dann im sommer/herbst das kino auf - mal schaun was es im endeffekt wird aber die 215er wären schon genial - die klipsch reichen sicher für viele heimkinos locker aus! Ich hab aber einen raum mit 32qm und 3,5m deckenhöhe - da kann ruhig etwas mehr wackeln 😂
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude The only way you'll get 2k out of this thing is to use a 20 to 25 amp breaker... a 15amp breaker is only good up to 1800, you also have to factor in the amps heat dissipation, as well as everything else thats running off of that single breaker... if that thing was really 2k it would trip a standard breaker eventually, especially trying to squeeze a 3k plus peak rating out... a 25 amp breaker at 120v is about 2,500w... i wish they were honest about its amplifiers rms power and i also wish it had a cliplight on the front. Good review though.
Частота около 10 Hz Было вначале ролика. Не слышно. Конечно такое. Но по двери узнал что 10Hz Мою дверь на такой частоте только можно трихануть и Её тихануло 😁 Такое может сделать только правельно сделанный сабвуфер ДЛЯ ДОМА👍
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude yeah, he's definitely doing well. All that hard work paying off lol I'm thinking of replacing my dual s3601's with iPals so I'll keep you posted!
For your room? Its too big for my apartment. I've got the 10" and I'm constantly rushing to tun it down. That thing would shake my entire 5 story building, and bring a quick end to my lease.
That thing is bad ass a friend of mine had a whole Polk System but he just bought four speakers to go inside the walls he installed those and bought a subwoofer it’s half the size of that and it has a 15 on each side and I never felt I said I Wolfers that hard to push like he told me to try to push the suburban and it would not move and I can’t remember the name of it but I’m gonna look it up I have not been on here in a while but I wonder if it’s the same company I’m gonna get my system Done soon so I just start. Watching again and my room is.not small so something like that I’m gona see what he has I for get the name of the one he had and I’m a check that one out I really like that one a lot and I have plenty of room for a sub with two 15 inch subs 👍👏
THX has nothing to do with the settings. It just isn't as sensitive as what you were using previously. Its a no brainer to always rerun the mic setup with new speakers.
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude No, read carefully what I am saying. THX has nothing to do with it. There is nothing in THX certification that specifically changes anything. As I stated you almost always have to rerun Mic setups because drivers differ in sensitivity and plate amps differ in gain. In fact for amp certification THX required amps to have the same gain specs just so all amps would be compatible and easier to integrate into the rest of the system. This is a no brainer to introduce a systemic approach to system building.
2kW of power - ok so you might want to set aside at least $50k-$100k for repairs, because I heard of people destroying their home's foundation and concrete slab, joists, walls, ceilings on a fraction of power than that. That carpet alone won't cut it, just check your house's foundations, slab and structure and let us know if you have destroyed it with such a setup. ;) I have heard of people getting large cracks on their slab and foundation on otherwise very solidly built homes, on even 100w-300w power subs. Cinemas are built structurally for massive sound and can handle it......Your typical home is not built with that, so good luck on your home, hopefully you don't plan on selling it anytime soon, because I know a lot of sound fanatics that ended up paying $50k-$100k in repair to otherwise sturdy homes to repair cracks on their foudnation and concrete slab, walls, joists, etc, they all wishes they used headphones instead or spent $10 to go to the movies instead. Good luck :)
