If you need to change an inner seal on your Mopar 8 3/4" axle then this is the video for you. It has how-to instructions, part numbers and torque settings too. Thanks for watching guys! SGG.
Great video, Bill Britz won the people's choice award, volunteers for Mid Minnesota Motor Heads, and an interview with him on the build would be well worth it, 18 plus years in the making
Excellent video and I'll be out to buy a 2 inch socket to do my seals. Your seal was the original. How you can tell can be seen at 6:18, at the top of the seal you can see the DPCD marking (Desoto Plymouth Chrysler Dodge or something like that) which my original seal also had. It's interesting this video came out today, as tomorrow, I'm hoping to complete a differential swap on my '68 Fury and I've also bought new inner seals and gaskets for the axles. This will be my second time on this job if the seals that are in it now show any signs of leaking. I think i would have a bit less end play than I saw there.
Great video but i think its safe to say that even though the axle bearing spins freely on shaft, its not a surefire indicator that it is good unless there is a load on it. For instance, my bearing noise goes away when im making a wide turn and all load is off the the bearing in question.
C-Body may work as well, as they are slightly larger than a B-body socket. Here is a picture of a B-body socket on a seal dodgecoronet.com/axle_seal.jpg
Nice job George my 87 d150 was done at 87.000 seams like that axel is really some iron thinking of redoing the out side with some converter and then prime and paint some oil base black on it it's what I did with inspection cover . I got one of those China nock off carborator until I got my holley rebuilt not bad for 100.00 bucks but had holley manufacturers rip apart that China one and glad I still have the holley one .but the best thing I did with mine was putting the hei Chevy ignition on it Idol super smooth now.
Great idea that is. Something I should have done to help verify depth of the new seal. That's what I love about doing this stuff.... everyone helps each other out with ideas and advice to help make things easier for the next person. Thanks Alex 😉👍🏻
Thank you for the very clear camera work, too! Can you tell me where you might get that really thin foam-like gasket behind the retainer/adjuster? Cheers!
Glad the video helped. You should be able to buy the gasket online somewhere. Bear in mind that gasket is over 50 years old, there's probably better gasket options out there nowadays 👍🏻 SGG
Great video,thanks George. I want to change my fluid in my 8 3/4 sure grip rear axle in my 1966 Dodge Polara,does it require a additive along with the gear oil?
Not sure on the additive Bob. Maybe search a few forums, or ask uncle Google. You shouldn't need to pull your drive shafts just to change the fluid, but if you do make sure that there's no pin that will drop in the diff. Mine was an open diff, not a sure grip so the removal process of the shafts may be different for your axle. Hope it helps, and thanks for watching 👍🏻SGG
Great video. One question; for the plate that is held onto the housing with the nuts that need to be torqued to 35 Ft-Lbs, is any sealant or gasket required between that plate and the housing? The reason I ask is on a vehicle I have purchased, the previous owner put sealant in between those. Thanks for any info!
rock site mentions a inner and outer seal. that green one looks like it could get distorted easily. and I'd be watching that the spring dont fall off. the old one maybe that bit you tossed can fit on the new seal to keep the spring safe? not looking forward to this at all
As mentioned in the video I did the Inner seal not Outer seal. The old seal was an original factory 2 piece seal. Nothing on the old seal will fit the new seal.
