I actually prefer the Classic 2, but these are all great knives. Regarding the issue of the space where the blade meets the handle, I put gorilla glue in there on one knife and epoxy on another. Two years later both still seem to be wearing well and nothing harmful seems to be depositing in this space.
Do you recommend this for a bush knife? Been looking at this and the Companion. I prefer the traditional wooden/metal handle of the Classic vs the rubber/plastic of the Companion. From what I’ve seen, the blades are similar, but I’d need to file the spine of the Classic if I wanted to use it for fire starting. Any pros/cons? Thanks!
all the best man , i wish i seen more of the cat she looks awesome i love cats , you can seal the gap with either bees wax or lee valley tool has a special sealant with a needle for application it was made to seal all sorts of cracks between the wood and the eye of the axe
The plastic sheath will actually fill up with water if you are using it in the rain or snow. Then the next time you go to use it, it will have become rusted. If your lucky, you notice this before it ruins the finish. I didn't. I would like to make a leather one. Add that to the too many projects I have, by a factor of 10. I cut the tip, for an expedient solution, and provide a drain.
You can fill the bolster caps with glue, at least I always did. Dunno if it truely helps but it's something and I've had my classic for yikes over 10 years now. The classics are not dangerous to use, only to fight with lol.
I use epoxy but it is best done when the knife is new. Your new Classic was how all Mora knives were made long before they ever had plastic handles. Morakniv cheapened out by making the Classic tang not go all the way to the end of the handle, it seems like they may have gone back to the old way. Back in the day, the Classic was a cheaper Mora compared to the ones with stained handles with leather sheaths and metal ends.
You can clean it out the best that you can. Then place a couple of drops of epoxy or shoe glue in it & let it cure. That should keep all crud out of the knives.
Fill the handle where to tang enters with 888 glue, it’s very thin and super strong, it will penetrate deeply and seal it and strengthen it, great looking knife 👍😁💪🏻
Although I've cut the point off ghe bottom of my mora sheath tit also has two holes in the sback side . Ive noticed there are no drainage holes in your sheaths .
I beleive that at some point I put some sort of glue in there. Not the best quality because after some time it was gone. Nowadays I just squirt some oil in there and leave it be. I dont think that the gap is a huge deal, but its something to look out for. (Keep in mind, not every Mora will have a gap)
@@TheWildCusli Ah, very good. Well, I watched some of your other videos, and it seems you now have some backup Moras if this one ever fails. Seems like it's going strong, though! I enjoy your content! Regards!
the reason why the classic nr.1 has a 3/4 tang is because it is the same blade as the 510 Q ,511Q, 546Q, crafline high Q and light my fire. classic nr. 1 i glued and maybe stonger than the other classics with full rat tail tang. because they are not glued. the carving knifes are the same and can easaly be reasmbled. your new clasic nr. 1/o is the same knife as the old nr.2/0 but thinner blade 2mm , the old was better 2.5mm. and the new ones cost about 50% more.
I used Extra Virgin Olive Oil, but im sure any other thin oil should get the same results. I beleive Boiled Linseed Oil would probably work even better, but olive oil is cheeper :)
@@TheWildCusli Thank you! I originally clicked on your video because your sheath caught my attention, but now I keep coming back to admire your handle. I've looked at so many mora vids for a decent looking natural wood handle, and hands down yours is the prettiest I've come across imo. Olive oil makes sense because of the natural shine. And that deep worn dark color fading to that lighter yellow hue over the grain gives it so much character. Seriously good job and thank SO much for the reply! Greatly appreciate it 👍
@@jakubfator5562 hello. I just sanded the handle and every once in a while applyied some oil. There was nothing really special that I did, it just got darker with time and use. 🙃
@@TheWildCusli Oh, yup. Thanks for the fast answer. I want the same look. But I'm going to use a carnauba wax yet. After the oil. So I'm curious about the result! 😇
Mora classic is not a dangerous knife, it’s a usability is so much better than all the clumsy models with choils or guards or whatever gets in the way.
Please, what oil did you use? I sealed the gap on the base of the blade, with glue, or silicon glue, can't remember exactly, but I guess almost any glue would work! I did that the day I got it! Can you please tell me the oil you used? The oils I use, do not provide that beautiful tone yours got!!
Hey :) I usually use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (since its food grade). But I have the knife for a while, so I've actually used many diferent oils on it, such as linseed oil and WD40 😅. I have other knives (moras included) in which I apply the same oils but dont get the same results... because I always end up using my old trustworthy knife. so what i figured is that what actually gives the knife hande its color is just simply using it. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)
There and classic moras with finger guards. I never cut myself for lack of finger guard, so I personaly think they only get in the way. No big deal though, have fun :)
Nice idea. But isn't solder too weak for it to be permanent? I assume it would break off after some use. Welding would be better I guess but then that means much more effort/cost.
@@Ukraineaissance2014 Nice option. I went with bees wax. If it goes grubby I can dig it out with a toothpick and re-apply some fresh wax. I gently melt it into the gap with a lighter. It actually has some anti-bacterial action (foodprep.) and it's pretty much waterproof. I'll go look for some pine resin next dayhike.
@@scrapthrall beeswax is great, I carry a stick in my camping bag always for tasks like that and for waterproofing, as well as it being an extremely long burner in candles
@@TheWildCusli Thanks. I use WD-40 for mine(only the blades) and I wasn't satisfied. I'll give the olive oil a try. For handles, I'll stick to linseed oil, as it polymerises over time and gives good grip and weather protection.
@@heyarnoI've used WD40 as well, and many other oils of that kind. (And still do if I dont have any other) I have also used Linseed oil on the hande, but I prefer something that I can use on both handle and blade. Thats why I usually use olive oil. (And it doesnt leave the knife "tacky") But in the end... I dont think it really maters that much, as long as the knife is well cared for. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)
I actually prefer the Classic 2, but these are all great knives. Regarding the issue of the space where the blade meets the handle, I put gorilla glue in there on one knife and epoxy on another. Two years later both still seem to be wearing well and nothing harmful seems to be depositing in this space.
