More landscape improvements at Chadwick Model Railway | 136. 

Retired ex-BR driver here. It has long been a massive "no no" on the railway for a green aspect to show when a train is going into a dead end platform of ANY kind. As with most rule changes, this one came about following a tragic train crash at a mainline terminus many years back. It is the belt and braces approach that removes any uncertainty from terminating train movements. In a real world situation your current junction signal, controlling diverging traffic to and from the helix in your case, would be where the control for your station/Goods yard traffic would be situated. The reason being that an additional signal situated where you are suggesting could potentially see a train brought to a stand blocking the diverging route altogether. You could replace the feather on the junction signal (or the flash as we often called it) with a "Theatre Box Indicator" with the additional letters - to those you mentioned - being something like M for main and B for branch, although the actual choice of letters is obviously yours to make. The addition of a "cats eyes" signal below the main aspect would also allow for run-round locos to return to an occupied platform/goods road in your terminal station/yard area. However, I do understand the limitations of available space etc., so if you were to pursue the additional signal option then the signal should only consist of 2 aspects (yellow and red) along with your "Theatre Box Indicator" atop. Again, I would suggest the "cats eyes" shunting signal for more authentic looking run round movements. I hope that's something of a help. I love the layout and the very talented work that you do on it. I look forward to your videos each week and I often wish I had the space (and the energy) to pursue something similar myself, but alas age and poor health forbids it anyway. Cheers.

Thanks Charlie, always a pleasure to watch your videos.

I use acrylic paints exclusively in my airbrush as my wife is very sensitive to solvent smells. To avoid frequent clogging, add a few drops of flow improver to the paint prior to spraying. (For example, for Vallejo Model Air paints, one adds one drop for every five to ten drops of paint.) This reduces clogging significantly. Using a larger airbrush needle size also helps. Cheers from Wisconsin!

The landscaping videos are my favourite. I can switch off, listen and watch someone else doing the terraforming work that I should be doing on my layout. It still counts, doesn't it? :-)

Hi Charlie, just want to say hello. I am just starting to build my first layout as a 56 year old boy. I am learning so much from you and your channel and will continue to tune in thank you and all involved.

I've moved onto a narrowboat Charlie and had to play catch up now I've installed WiFi. Great as always

Another great update! Looks amazing! Take care Mark

Hi Charlie sorry I've been a bit quiet been busy at work so I have decided today to catch up on your material. layout looking good near the retaining walls and your previous signal video was very helpful food for thought when I think about installing signalling keep up the great work. Kind regards Gary

Thank you Charlie! Seeing your videos appear on RU-vid always gives me the required push to get working on my track! Your tutorials are an inspiration for the younger generation train modelers like myself.

Great new update today .Like it so much

I really enjoy these videos. My wife teases me about having my "choo choo charlie" time. (for those who may not reconize that phrase, "ChooChoo Charlie" was a kids cartoon in the late 50's and early sixty's here in the states, (I was in the Chicagoland area at that time), that I would watch every morning before going off to school. He also advertized, "Good and Plenty" which is a Licorice with a candy coating of either red pink or white. Funny, I can still remember the little song that was sung...lol. Funny about the things we older guys remember). Anyway, another fantastic video by my FAVORITE train moldeler. I want to start supporting the channel but I live in the states and you are in England (oh how I love England! The world would not be near as civilized if it wasn't for "Mother England"). Sorry, got side tracked. Please if someone could clue me in on how funding works I would be very grateful!

Anthony great episode Charlie and I am looking forward to the block detection one.

Hi Charlie. I am no signalling expert, but I once worked on the platform on BR and I do know that a single amber denotes the next is at red. In your planned station area, as it is a ‘dead end’, there is no need for amber, only green to denote the line ahead is clear, or red to denote it is occupied. Amber means ‘approach with caution’ so, in that situation, ‘caution’ is meaningless as you can either enter the station or stay where you are until given the all clear. Hope this is helpful.

Hi Charlie, once again a marvellous and very informative video 👍 I think especially for the so called 'armchair model railroaders' (they still exist) it will inspire them to put 'hands on '!! By your way of sharing and showing, you will tug them out of their chairs! Once again thanks, stay healthy and I'm looking forward to your next video!! Season greetings from a small village in the middle of the Netherlands, cheers mate 🚂

Looking really good Charlie Boy 👍👍

Really interesting what you said about acrylic paints and airbrush problems - I’ve long had the same frustrations, every time I come to use my airbrush after any amount of time, it just never works. I love acrylic and how easy it is to work with but it just has this chalky hardness when it dries, which airbrushes really don’t like.

Hi Charlie just re-watched adding another Noch retaining wall coming of the off your helix I bought the extra long length of Noch retaining wall 58065 from dcc train automation which was about the only place that had one in stock and that was their last one I used a length of 3rd radius curve as a guide to what radius of curve I needed didn’t have a heat gun but my wife’s GHD hair dryer which was just the job heated it up and now I have made a tunnel o my 4th radius curved track put a few buildings on I think it gives it another dimension the Noch products are really realistic thanks again for showing us how to get the most out of our layouts best wishes Kev

Charlie, I would go with what you have said for the home signal with just the yellow and red and the Route Indicator Box. However if you foresee any shunting where locos or locos and wagons may come past that signal to run around or shunt then I would also recommend the addition of a position light signal. it would only need to be a 2 aspect because being attached to the main signal there is already the red aspect. The position light signal could still work in conjunction with the Route indicator but can access any line. An example here would be if a train arrives on platform 1 you would then need to bring a loco out of a siding and onto the rear to form the out going service. This is one of the purposes of the position light signal it authorises a restrictive move. As it states in the Qld Railways rule book for Position Light signals. Allows a movement past the signal as far as the line is clear. Love the video thanks Charlie.

Another fascinating show, thank you Charlie. 2 things, if you had kept the remains of the Hill between the station and Helix lines, you would have spoilt the view of the action. And more importantly to get the tunnel mouth signal visible you don't need to bring it all the way to the end of the straight access to the Helix. Remember there will be no traffic on that line, put a carriage on the other line and bring the signal forward until it can be seen from the driver in the cab. Perhaps your track camera will help. I think you only need to move the signal a third of the distance.

I have become a huge fan of Tamiya acrylic paints diluted with isopropyl alcohol for painting my track. All of airbrush issues are now gone. But you do need good breathing protection. Great video Charlie. Thanks for sharing this. Cheers- Larry.

Great video keep them coming Charlie 👍

There are of course Ad blockers that remove the adverts from websites including RU-vid. Not going to get drawn into the ethics of using them, but they do make watching videos on youtube more pleasurable. Another excellent video Charlie, and I think you made the right decision with the way the hill would be landscaped in real life, it much more natural.

Always enjoy watching your videos Charlie. Fascinating discussion on signalling. You asked the question and got lots of answers! Blew my mind. Thanks. Roy.

Hi Charlie, wonderful video, just goes to show patience and persistence can win out. I really enjoy your landscaping segments, maybe because one can see something happening. The other stuff is important I agree, however one does see much visually, except maybe the installation of signals etc, so for now I will be patient and just wait for the next landscaping video. Don't get me wrong I enjoy everyone of your videos. till next time, Best Wishes Greg

Wonderful, Thank you. Kind regards from Vienna

Superb video as always Charlie - big thumbs up from Tileford 👍🏼

Always good to watch Charlie, thanks for your work. Three thoughts regarding the signals: Signalling is all about spacing for the braking distance, and rarely allows for curvature of the line. The signal at the tunnel mouth is fine to stay where it is. With signal sighting there is no allowance for a train on an adjacent line other than sometimes at stations. No need for a banner repeater either. The yellow aspect in rear means the Driver will treat the next one at Red, until they see otherwise. The one approaching the terminus should be a two aspect R/Y signal. The yellow leads onto the red buffer stop lamp. Great care needed though with this one, as if you place where you suggested, a train stopping at it will be fouling the junction in rear! In reality this would no be allowed. Hope that's useful. Keep up the good work. Richard.

Great as always Charlie. You made the right decision to not put that narrow hill between the station approach and the main lines - two retaining walls, back to back like that wouldn't have happened in the real world. You will have to make sure you have enough height on the land to justify a tunnel portal before the helix.

Lol the signal placement that’s great you want it to look right from the cab. That’s dedication that separates model railway enthusiasts to yobs like me that call it my train set. Marvelous work.

Landscaping is an area where I need to improve my skills and bring my layout to life, so it's always interesting and helpful to see some of your techniques. Thanks for another enjoyable video.

I do so like to watch your videos and enjoy your tips and techniques. You are able to explain your processes without making me feel ignorant (like some other channels.) Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Charlie, very instructive, as always and entertaining too. Your videos have made a considerable difference to progress on my own, much smaller, efforts.

Charlie, Thank you for another great informational video. You have answered a question I was going to ask about the best way to get the joins in flex track looking better. Thank you for showing your technique on fitting the missing sleepers. We are of a similar age, I have exactly the same B&D Paint Stripper Gun, abeit with an Australian Plug. Keep safe, and keep showing us how you do it. Cheers, Michael

Great vid as always Charlie. With regards to using acrylic paints with an airbrush there is a vid on RU-vid by someone who goes by the name Barbatos Rex on How to Airbrush Acrylics. He adds something to the paint which slows the drying time and allows it to flow better, his results look very pleasing.

Looking great alan, keep,up the good work

Hi Charlie. I’ve had the same problem when trying to airbrush with cheap acrylic paint. I switched to using the Revell Aqua Color range thinned with their Aqua Color Mix and found it a lot easier to work with and no horrible enamel thinner smells

Really nice vid Charlie. Such a lot of detail work that you are exceptionally good at. I do love it when you have a bit of a hissy!!😡

I completely agree with the use of the three aspect signal and a SARI the only thing I could suggest is pottentially they provision of a call on signal with its own MARI. as this would allow the signaller to route light engines or route another train into the occupied platforms for joining up. The miniature indicator would probably have to be a dummy but would add to the affect.

Looking good, you do bring up the facts you need to think about more tha just track as there is more to the railroads than tracks. Signals, landscape and more thanks for sharing 👍👍👍

thanks Charlie, it is looking good mate

Charlie, re acrylics I always use the Model Air range - they are pre-thinned and ready to pop straight into the airbrush. Great quality paints imo. Can DM you some pictures of my weathered track for reference mate.

Great vid again Charlie. I loved the way the wall could be shaped with heat. A very useful tip.

Got an old Bosch heat gun 30 year old my glue gun is a hobby craft cheepo some many uses Charlie great video 🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂

I never thought about filling in the nail/pin holes in before weathering the track. Thank you for bringing that to my attention Charlie. One more thing to add to the to do list.

Hello Charlie, current driver here. I wouldn’t worry about the signal down by the tunnel mouth! Even with all the signal sighting groups, they still manage to obscure them all the time. As drivers, you just learn where they all are! On my routes, there are many places where you’ll run on a long, open, straight section of line and your signal is round the next bend, just out of view! Sometimes only by a few metres too. So I shouldn’t worry about that too much. As for the junction signal, I’d actually put it all the way back at the vidaduct. The likelihood is, they’d treat all that pointwork as one Junction. You could just have the one signal, with the illuminated theatre box with 1, 2 and G, but if they came off with a Number 1 route indicator/flash/feather, then number 2 for the helix. You could always have a shunt/dolly/dod signal too, for shunt moves. Also, restrictive aspects only when entering dead ends. That just means not green.

Thank you again Charlie. Your tutorial videos have been invaluable teaching me so many new skills. Your presentation style is informative, concise, to the point, and yet entertaining and very easy to listen to. A university for learning modelling skills. Thank you.

If anyone wants to attach large soft pieces like the foam wall but can't for whatever reason use hot glue (e.g. the things being glued are heat sensitive) then pushing pins into the substructure then cutting the pin head off with the 'wrong' side of a pair of clippers to leave a sharp point on which to impale and hang the surface. I've done it when cladding cardboard walls with apoxie sculpt brick and it works really well.

I always find when laying flexible track, if you position a small (shaving) mirror on the rails and look at the image you will notice any kinks in the track and any other odd things close to the trackside. It gives you chance to alter things before finally attaching the track. Why you can't see them when you look at them normally remains a mystery!

Charlie Bob Waldron at genessis models often finishes kits in acrylics using an airbrush he has videos for home brew thinners as well. But to my point the blockages are usually due to the paint drying on the needle and so he uses products called fluid retarder (which slows the drying time ) and flow improver; which does something similar. These reduce the problem but won’t stop it totally. Both these products are by Windsor and Newton in their Galleria range. They are not cheap but last ages because they are used dropwise after all the paint has to dry sometime. He is also very interesting on things like dilution and spraying pressures. Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but acrylics have their uses. Don’t throw the baby out with the bath water.

red and yellow with theaterbox indecation absalute aspects and a banner repeater for the signal aspect blocked by the brush type 4

Hi Charlie! Great to see some major landscaping going on! 😎 I do rather like the way the land lies on that junction and think you have managed well to keep it looking realistic 👍 With regard to the signal: as you may have been told already, you were quite right about the need only to show a red or yellow as the buffers are effectively a ‘red’, thus there is no use for a green there. In terms of the theatre box, I would say that the right thing to have would be a ‘1’ and ‘2’ as an option AND have a position light or shunt indicator beneath the main aspect signal to indicate that the train is essentially leaving the main line and moving onto a section under localised control, i.e. the signaller is passing control over to the local shunter so that the necessary moves can be undertaken without having to interrupt the signaller in his main line duties. You can then have a mainline aspect signal to control the exit of the yard onto the main line 👍 I hope that makes sense 😄 I could be entirely wrong but I am just basing this on what we have on the approach to and exit from our yards on the c2c line 👍 As an aside, can I suggest a headhunt or at least use the catch points by the signal to exit the yard to govern the movements?

2 aspect (red/yellow), with theatre box. With a associated position light Main aspect and theatre indication for the platforms Associated Position light and theatre indication for the yard. You can also use the associated position light with theatre indication for platforms if they are occupied

great stuff Carlie. Landscape is my favourite stuff and I really enjoyed that. It doesn't stop me watching more technical stuff. Have a good weekend. M. Toulouse

As ever, the Friday post work getaway starts with Charlie and another great episode of the Chadwick development! Thank you and 👍

The one thing I'd add if your getting the signal made, and you go with red and yellow only, I would get a calling on signal added below the main aspects so it there was any stock in the platforms or the goods yard, the approaching train could be warned it there. Other in theory it would have to pass this signal at red.

Thanks Charlie… now I know why Aaron was so keen for me to watch this episode ! I am on the mend and RU-vid is helping to keep me sane in the process ! Just starting to some scenery work on Cambewarra (my layout) and will involve slapping a little Sculptit around (another Sculptimold type product down under) and some structure building which I’m looking forward to. Thanks again 👍

Regarding the signal which allows access to the station and goods yard, I say a 2 aspect signal with theatre box route indicator with 1 / 2 / G but with a position light. The position light would show with a red when entering your platforms to allow a run round move (which vehicles in the platform) or clear to a signal yellow when the platform was empty - the next “signal” beyond is the red lamp on the stop block. Regards the route into the yard, again you’d have a yellow and position light as you’ll potentially be going into a section of line where the controlling signaller doesn’t know the line is clear. We have this arrangement on the entry to Barry docks - the main aspect stays red with a position light clearing to allow the train to proceed. With regards to run rounds you may wish to look at a LOS (limit of shunt) fixed red on your Up line approach road prior to the junction or your driver doing the run round could plough off wrong road into oncoming traffic.

Great work Charlie👍

I've found that a lot of acrylic paint can be hit or miss with airbrushes, but the one brand I've never had an issue with is Vallejo Model Color paints. Though, I've only used them with their respective Vallejo airbrush thinners, I've never had a blockage.

Mint work Charlie.🚂🚃🇨🇦

Yet another great video Charlie ... my build getting there and also back getting better so will start my shed in a week or so fingers and back crossed... regarding Aspect signal you need a 3D printer and Fusion360 Cad design program and you can make your own ... I have done a few with direction indicators using white 3mm LED's plus Red, Yellow and Green using 4mm brass tube as upright ...

Attention to small details makes for an accurate layout.....you are master of this for sure...

You are bound to give me flashbacks, aren't you? Club had a specific mix of Floquil for railroad ties to emulate the American creosote-dipped timers; and a separate mix for "rail color." Sleeper color all over, then get out the masking tape to shoot the rails. The MoW squad would run track cleaners to insure the Operations Folks had no issues. Rinse and repeat.

As a number of others have said acrylics need to be thinned down a lot more than enamels. Also, I think at 20psi the pressure is perhaps a little too high. Unlike enamels acrylics, need to be done in thin layers and be built up over several coats There is a very good series on RU-vid from Ammo by Mig on spraying enamels and well worth a look. I use almost exclusively acrylics for both model and scenery work and find that once mastered there is very little problem. +

Excellent video Charlie, the Signal into Barnstaple could have various options depending on the region and era you are basing it on, Nowadays it would be a 2 aspect {red, yellow) into the platforms and a position light for the goods yard and also for entering into an occupied platform, and a theatre box above the main aspect capable of showing 1, 2 or G, so realistic aspects would be Red, Yellow and 1, Yellow and 2, position light and 1, 2 or G depending on route set. You could have a main aspect theatre box above the signal and a miniature one above the position light but that is really complicating things and it is perfectly acceptable to have the main (only) theatre box also working with the position light signal, Plymouth P15 signal is a perfect example of this on the Western (Up) approach to Plymouth station if you want a real world example. The signal near the tunnel would only need to be moved back far enough to prevent it being obscured by a train on the other line, you wouldnt need to move it that far back to make it visible. As others have said you wouldnt normally place a signal where a train would be over a junction when stopped at it but who has the space for that.

Agree with Vincent. That "derelict" area would probably have a signal box in the era you are modelling. Placed next to the retaining wall between the "mainline" and the station approach. That way the signaller would observe both the mainline and control the station approach and main junction. Great video as always Charlie. Thanks

Alright, I'm inspired. I'll finally start the landscaping rather than buying more trains and rolling stock! (Ridiculous procrastination considering I'm a landscaper by trade!) Glad to see I'm not doing something wrong with my airbrush ... other than using acrylics! Another great video Charlie. Thanks very much.

was just looking at the line going down to the helix it's like a long S bend - so i think the signal would have to be near the start of the retaining wall cos of coming round that 1st bend on the down line to the helix

You wouldn't install a coloured light signal just after the branch junction. It would cause operational problems. The signal would be installed before the junction, just after the viaduct having red, yellow & green aspects. For mainline running only the aspects would display. For the branch red & yellow aspects would display together with a theatre type indicator showing 1 or 2 and a subsidiary position type signal for goods line running.

Another great episode Charlie. Really enjoyed this one and so glad that you're such a dab hand with the vacuum cleaner!!

Great progress Charlie Nick Australia

Great episode with great results! Clever of you to set up the running with the train blocking the tunnel entrance signal! (Yup, we got the point!)

For the sculptor mould, i find it easier to apply with a plasterers trowel and square tool. I originally saw them being used on an archaeological dig, and they are great for this sort of work

To remove plastic sheen one can use white spirit as well, el cheapo.

Super, scenics! Save to watch later and watching later (where later = very soon!)

Thank you for a very informative and entertaining program, Charlie.

Enjoyable video as usual. I would have replaced the exit trap point to the goods yard with a shunting neck so that the yard could be shunted without encroaching onto the platform line's exit. My other idea is to have the base of a demolished signal box in the "derelict area" in the fork of the junction.

With reference to the signal leading into the station, it would have two aspects a red and either a yellow or a green. Today it would always be a yellow but it was not uncommon on some regions of BR to have a green reading to buffer stops and I can recall working on converting the signals approaching Euston in the late 70s or early 80s. I would suggest that you have a red/yellow signal. You are right that a route indicator (often called a theatre type) would be provided and it would display an indication for each destination. I think someone else has suggested that if you want to enter an occupied platform then a subsidiary signal would be used (two white lights) and quite often that would also apply to the route into the goods area rather than a yellow. In the current day we would have a miniature route indicator for the subsidiary signals but it was not uncommon for the same route indicator to be used for both the main and subsidiary with the change to separate ones happening in the late 90s, if I remember right. However, it is actually unlikely that you would put a colourlight signal where you are proposing it because of the fact the train would be hanging back over the junction and you would more likely use the signal the other side of the viaduct which protects the junction. BUT it is your railway and it is what works for you so do what you like - your railway is much more advanced than mine which I am still working to get all the stock to run around without the occasional derailment and I have not got any signals yet!

Hi Charlie another fine video. I'm puzzled as to why you cut a whole sleeper off flexi-track, as the PECO legend C.J. Freezer advocated way back when I started modelling, you merely need to cut the chairs off the track end sleeper with a sharp blade whilst leaving the sleeper in place. You can then simply slide your fishplates on as normal. It's quicker & much neater than cutting off the sleeper, then cutting off the chairs & re-gluing the sleeper in place. Also much easier to cut the chairs when attached to the track. That was the method in 1960's & the one I still use today. :-)

Looks great, Charlie! Tons of things left to do, but that's the fun part, right? This part of your layout really makes a difference in how the whole empire looks and runs. Can't wait to see further progress! Thanks for the lesson!

If your airbrush is getting blocked Charlie, it means either your acrylics isnt thinned enough or, the needle in your airbrush needs tobe dropped down a size or two. Despite what many people say, some acrylics need thinning 1 to 1. It isunfortunately a question of experimentation.

splendid Charlie great stuff made my day another one in my locker of knowledge thanks to you ,have a great weekend John from chichester.

Another great video Charlie..................but, like lots of modellers you cleaned the rust paint from the check rails on your points. Wheels never touched these and were always rusty. Even Little Bytham has made this mistake and he's not messing about like the rest of us ; )

Excellent video as always. Living in Seychelles means I never have adverts in your videos!

Nice work once again Charlie, looks fantastic, looking forward to more soon, cheers, Chris

Absolutely marvellous as always. If I throw my hat in the ring ref the signal. Two aspect. Definitely need a position light for permissive/occupied. Theatre box could be a 1 and 2 for platforms. Position light with 1 or 2 for occupied platform. Position light only for goods. Equally a signal with a number 4 junction indicator. Main aspect platform 1. Jun indicator 2. Pos light for goods. However on this option there may have to be a smaller indicator box to indicate pos light +1 occupied platform etc. Many options. The proto...nope. Real life signalling never really follows a pattern unfortunately. Have fun. Love the channel.

Good one Charlie 😁 It’s come on a long way since your tail chaser lol 😆 Hope you have a happy father’s day 👍🏻 cheers Stevie 😎

Hi Charlie Another brilliant episode I would agree a signal protecting a terminal platform would suffice as a red/yellow with a “theatre box” giving specific destinations but don’t forget a subsidiary signal for those all important shunt and permissive movements into a siding or platform. As for the retaining wall Spot on as far as I’m concerned it looks really good I have been impressed by your scenery generally. Well done fella👏

In that blackish area between the station line and the tunnel lines, you could put a signal box that can control the junction

Another entertaining video Charlie. When you was offering the celotex up for a hill I was shouting at the screen no no....and as quick as a flash you elbowed it. Its going to look great.

Ooh..King George V on the Pullmans..reminds me of 1971 and the return to steam. Coming along very nicely Charlie, that section looking good now. Take care..all the best.

Hi Charlie, as to be expected a interesting and informative video, please keep up the excellent work. I have read through the comments below and although I am by no means an expert, I agree with the comments about the entrance signal to the terminus station, I am not sure which accident lead to the rule change (mentioned by Cyberdon Blue), but I suspect it could be the Class 50 entering Paddington with a sleeper too fast. Which may mean you could still use a green for your period (as mentioned by John Alexander). Certainly under semaphores you will get a green home signal showing that the line is clear to the buffer stops. Two other things struck me (again mentioned below), first the home signal for the terminus (if at danger) would leave the tail of the train on the mainline. Second the exit signal from the terminus has the potential for the terminus lines to be blocked waiting for trains to clear the junction and wondered if the starting signals would show the line clear onto the main. Again, no expert, perhaps someone else might have other ideas. Cheers, Bryan

Don't give up on airbrushing acrylics Charlie. You obviously didn't have the mixture wet enough and it was clogging up as it passed through the airbrush. Like any skill, it takes time to get it exactly right... and don't assume that "because it works like this with enamels, it should be the same for acrylics". Try using IPA as a thinner because it evaporates rapidly. The idea is that the mixture doesn't dry in the airbrush, but is 'only paint' when it hits the surface of what you're painting. It's also worth remembering that the amount of thinning will need to change dependent on the pressure you're spraying at. A light dusting will need more thinner because it spends more time inside the airbrush... a stronger blast will need less. In the end, the Goldilocks zone of "just right" varies with the job!

Charlie, I just rewatched your 100th video... and would like to commemorate your perfect score of no bloopers in the past year, since June 19, 2020...... Right. The first seven words are true in that first sentence. I'd love to see another installment of ("...dear, in your wildest dreams of me...") your "edited out portions" and have another belly laugh. Noting also that your model railroad has had a bit of a transformation (insert helixes, here) and that your ducking-under days are over when your trains are running on track and on time. I continue to be interested, informed, and intrigued by your every input with and without your missus... and misses. Starting a new chapter in/of life, John Kraft BC, Canada

A great job done there Charlie, looking great 👍

Excellent update good work Charlie! Cheers, Joachim

I would go for a 2 aspect (Red and yellow) with a shunting signal on the post and 1, 2 and S on the route indicator. S being Sidings. This is what I've seen at Brighton where a train into the depot goes on a shunt signal but I defer to ex BR peoples knowledge here. Also the Southern region saw the light on a buffer stop as a signal so you'd have a yellow on the previous signal to that.

Another great video Charlie, always enjoy watching with so much hints and helpful advice 👍

Great video charlie but i noticed you still had tip on airbrush, cant you screw tip off so you can see the needle it gives you much more control on spray direction, watch airbrush asylum videos for tips 👍 i always thin my acrylics down 50/50 even ones they say you can use straight from bottle, hardly get any tip drying 👍👍

Hi Charlie The signal I would say would suit your layout is a two main colour light aspect signal that shows Red/Yellow with an associated position light below main aspect and route indicator (theatre box) above main aspect. You can then have permissive working with an associated position light, first train enters on a yellow plus route indicator, another can then enter same platform under position light and route indicator. The position light can also be used to enter the goods along with route indicator which would be the preferred way in that scenario depending on type of goods line it is. Also if you wanted to be extra savy you do not need a route indicator lit to proceed on an associated position light if travelling empty stock, you just proceed using each position light applicable depending on point work into the platform. A rare one but it is possible within RSSB rules on good old Great British Rail as we're now called 😁