As a perfessional LED automotive lighting manufacturer, I have to say, 15000LM is impossible for LED headlight kit. We tested a lot of LED headlight kits in market and ours, for the stable quality products with cooling fan, the real Lumen value range is about 1500~4000Lm per bulb in initial, and less than 3500Lm max when stable.
Correct. Every single LED manufacturer/seller lies about output! Lumen meters are cheap, and anyone can discover that on their own. One of the main things to ascertain regarding LEDs is how they work after about 30 minutes when they have really heated up. More so in outside hot temperatures.
@@netzoned Lumen meter is not cheap, the accurate lumen tester is spectrum analyzer. You know, the machine with a very big ball (1.5m diameter), we purchase it by about 15,000~20,000 US$, I estimate.
@@officialtrentled1400 Well, heck, YT messed up my reply. In short, there are these things called research and learning. Do both! There _are_ "cheap" lumen meters.
@@officialtrentled1400 LOL! You told me I was wrong when I was right. Now, here you are again. Do you just have to be right when _you_ are wrong? I mean exactly what I posted. So, back to you needing to research and learn. :-p
If you want the best go with Novsight 20000lm or try the Katana LED’s or Hikari Ultra… Much cheaper than the rip-off Morimoto hyped bulbs. Great honest review. Unlike Headlights Revolution liars!
Well dang, thank you for your comment. I gave them away last week. They got them installed in a 2016 silverado and love them. Think I'm going to stick to the halogens
@@graystone3392 Really? You are calling someone a liar when you don't know what you are talking about. _All_ GM trucks are the same, every year? Depending, on any vehicle, a harness, built-in or otherwise, may be necessary. The concern is the voltage, whether a particular bulb in a particular vehicle can have the proper voltage regulated to it so the DRLs operate properly.
I believe what you might be looking for is a anti flicker harness, and some bulbs work better than others in different housings ,good luck ,we all have different eyes
@@CFarmer Not saying you or the OP did not know, so, to whoever: Just make sure any additional metal piece on any harness is attached to metal and away from any other wiring.
I made the mistake of upgrading my headlight housing without doing more research. My low beams have the projector, in my opinion I haven't found a led light that gives me the brightness or the viewing distance I want with the projector. I recently purchased a new set of headlight housing and waiting on Morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 low beams and high beams to come in. I know a couple of people that have them in their Silverados and they are awesome. I have an 05 Avalanche and can't wait to put them from what I've seen. That projector just sucks in my opinion and a pain in the ass to find the right H1 bulbs to go with the housing. Glad to be switching back to the 9005 and 9006 led bulbs. Like you said they ain't cheap but I think I'm going to be super happy with them. No more projector housings for me.
Perhaps the Morimotos don't work too well in a projector type headligt. I put them in my Honda HR-V '17, with reflector type headlights. They work just great, with a very distinctive low beam pattern, and what I wouød estimate to be double the brightness of the original halogens.
That's awesome, yea i think it was the projector. I gave them to a subscriber with same truck and he noticed same short cutoff line. I think there good in a reflective headlight
Any LED will more than likely function better in a projector versus a reflector housing. But, usually, with both, the best functionality will be with halogen in housings designed for halogen, and probably more so in OEM housings. And, beam pattern and cut-off, as you know, is the most important aspect. Also, of course, as everyone knows, there will not be a white, brighter light. However, a white, brighter light that scatters (and even blinds people) is a minus.
@@CFarmer Great video! You took the time to do your best to acquire the best functionality (with what you had) while being mindful of other drivers. And, I can't argue with your deduction regarding the hologens. Hat off to you. EDIT Oh, yeah, IMHO, Morimoto is good for many, but over-priced.
From what I have seen, the Morimoto are OK in newer trucks. But, even on one site that sells them, their own video showed the high beam pattern to be junk.
In reflectors, especially. I just cannot find an LED that works as well as stock regarding beam pattern, more so in aftermarket versus OEM housings. I put some old Sylvania Silverstars back in, and even in the after-market housings the beam pattern was better! Obviously, the S S halogen is not as white bright. I still have a bunch to buy, though. :-/
You should try Pair of DDM Tuning Saber 55W Accu/V2 LED Kit, Philips LED, 12500LM. 4500K there more yellow tint so it will be more like to stuck bulb but brighter
I think your issue with those are the housing vertical adjustment. Most cars there's a screwdriver port that you can adjust your up and down level to set where your cutoff line to be. The morimotos look brighter with an amazing cut off. Just need to bring it up a little.
That was adjusted way up. Had chips at 9&3. With them adjusted all the way up i should have gotten brought lighted on a regular bases but 2 months never got bright lighted and cutoff line stayed the same. I have them to a subscriber who has a 2016 3500 with similar projectors and he's having same issue. After what i spent on them i wish i could have figured something out but no luck. Thank you for your comment
@@jaredcrichton1015 "they have the best cutoff in leds" ... I disagree. That cannot be a valid statement regarding every reflector and projector housing! No way! I have seen instances where the Morimoto beam patter was really bad, especially with the high beam.
Need to be careful, these headlight dealers will not tell you they are illegal to use in the US by DOT. And yes that is the Morimoto. They only have it in small fine print on their web site
Too bad bout the morimoto! I was gunna buy them just because of the heat transfer within the housing for ice and snow, but if they're crap anyways, what's the point in changing out the halogens.....hmmmm
@@CFarmer yea tough call. I drive a 2006 mustang and am looking for testimonials like yourself before I pull the trigger and spend that kind of coin. Gl in your search!!!
@@CFarmer btw, look up headlight revolution here on utube. They do ALOT of tests, projector and reflector style of lights. My goto when trying to get educated....again gl
Something else you need to take into consideration is the projector bowl itself being bad. That does happen and the only fix for that is a new projector or new assembly.
@netzoned oxidation builds up in the bowl. Over time the build up degrades the reflectivity and kills overall light output. It's actually fairly common. To make things worse, it can not be cleaned up because any solvent used will rub off the thin layer of reflector material. This can happen on both projector and reflector headlights.
@netzoned I'm about to rebuild the headlights in my 07 Saab 2.0T wagon because of this very problem. As a tech, I've seen this problem pop up many times. Most people want the headlight lens restored and tend to get angry when that doesn't fix the problem. At that point I recommend ( again) to have the assemblies replaced because doing the actual repair can get rather expensive when you count part's and labor, and most of the time labor is what drives people to just replacing the whole assembly with either an OE unit or a aftermarket product and even some aftermarket assemblies aren't that great! They look cool but often they aren't useful. In order to replace the projector, you literally have to Crack the headlight open and swap it out. Most cases it's as simple as unbolting the old projector and installing the new one. Most people who do go for this option, tend to want a custom build and that, if done right will give you a much better return on your investment. Building or modding headlights has become a popular thing, especially sing most of the retrofit parts are now more affordable and easily installed, if someone is confident enough to do it. If I was able to post a picture on here, I'd show you exactly what I've been explaining to you. You can also look up oxidation in headlight projectors and do the same for the reflector style headlights as well. Have you ever seen an older vehicle with really cloudy headlights? That layer of crud is oxidation, and while you can clean the outer lens, the headlights will still look cloudy because of the oxidation on the inside... I figure using this example might help you out some. There's a lot that goes into having good clear and clean usable light then just swapping out bulbs and that is something most people do not know! I could probably spend a while explaining everything, but if you don't have any experience with the subject, you just might get a headache 😅
@netzoned If you want to learn more and don't mind doing the homework yourself, look up headlight revaluation, The Retrofit Source, Lightwerkz and morimoto. Most of these places have a lot of good information for people who have an interest in this type of stuff. I wouldn't recommend that just anyone try and rebuild an assembly though, because it can be very tedious to do and if you aren't sure about doing it, then don't! Either way, here's a few places that you can check out and start learning a bit more about the process and tips and tricks along with products that will make things easier for you. When I do my build, I plan on doing a video showing the whole process from beginning to end. If you look around online, you can see what others have done. For me, I will be sharing everything from the "Why" to the repair and modification.
I think your right. But the Firehawks were 15000 Lumens and i still couldn't see as well as with the halogens. Even tho they were brighter they just didn't light up as far down the road
Osram NBR laser H11 specced at 1350lm but their original line bulb also specced at the same number. i believe you'll need 100W to achieve 2k~3klm and that's a lot of heat going into your headlight assembly. @@CFarmer dont trust Chinese-brand marketing spec. most of them are total BS. the brightest LED chip is around 5000lm per chip and they definitely need more than a puny heatsink fan (those chips are Cree XHP70.3 and they're unsuitable for halogen replacement)
@@CFarmer LED does still need more time to be mature especially on projector. i dont know much about lighting but a lot of LED somehow doesnt perform well on projector while providing a good output on reflector especially on ECE spec headlights. i see a lot of LEDs failed to provide a good beam pattern on DOT SAE headlights. i dont know why either
Please please please do not take the 15000 lumen rating as the scripture. Normally these ratings are taken from an overdriven version of this very same chip then the voltage quickly drops to stop from over heating and frying the led chip. So in reality yes this bulb might be brighter in your scenario but the raw lumen rating is probably far off. And raw lumen ratings also don’t mean crap when the beam shape is trash. These fire hawk LED’s you got here seem to be better than most of the lesser known brands of LED’s but they’re still not great from my experience. I’ve had a coupon sets of Morimotos installed one 2.0 and two sets of 3.0’s the minute they were available. And I’ve never had them go out. And if they did I’m sure they’d replace it no questions asked. Bottom line is I’ve had 3 fire hawks go out on me when trying them out in my Tacoma. The Morimotos in my Corolla and Camry have never even flickered and have been installed for a long time and my stupid Corolla has always on low beams when driving. So those poor LED’s are always on full power. And that’s my daily. I’ve also had the lasfit LED’s, some sv4’s, GTR Lighting, ddm tuning, and all have been fairly good. Diode dynamics has good quality and integration. But they don’t have the best fit and finish and material choice is a bit cheapies. Anyway sorry you don’t like your Morimotos. But in my experience they’ve been my favorites. Still different leds all perform differently in different housings. Even some LED’s that work good in one projector won’t work well in another projector. Doesn’t make much sense but we’re playing with optics that have tons of engineering behind them. And we’re just throwing all that engineering out the window by throwing in an led that makes the alignment of the light source extremely hard to duplicate the way a halogen would distribute the light.
Thank you, I'll check into it. It's about time for new lenses too. Mine are starting to haze over pretty bad. Hope to find a complete hid upgrade but i haven't had a lot of time to look
