Excellent job! I'm so happy that there are young guys like you that actually have some brains in their heads & know how to use them! Keep up the good work!
call me crazy but i like the exposed wiring. this thing is ingenious in design and practicality, and seeing the wiring doesn’t distract from that. from a design standpoint, it adds a cool industrial flair too. this whole project is just awesome, can’t wait to see what’s next
Two ideas - 1) Metal Frame hinged bed frame (futon esque) to convert from bed to couch 2) Under the bed with your fridge against the a far wall - Put it on slider rails and create a weather proof access door so you have access to your fridge from the inside or out. (you would have to move your outside box off center to the side.) - also Awesome videos, really enjoying these
I was originally going to so a pull down bed for that exact reason but due to size restraints I wasn't able to have that and the cabinets. I decided on the cabinets because I desperately needed the storage space.
Awesome! Love watching this build come together. One factor to consider in panel wiring is that all the panels in a series wired bank are compromised when output of any one individual in the line is lessened by shade or inefficient orientation. Parallel wired panels bypass the one slow panel or bank. The slanted panels on the side will never reach peak output at the same time as the horizontal ones at the top due to inclination of the sun at any one point in time. Therefore, I might consider separating the flat rooftop group as one (four panel) series set, and the inclined two panels as the other. You would get peak power out of one group, then transfer peak power from one group to the other as the sun reorients. Otherwise, the inclined panels will always hamper the flat panels when the sun is overhead, and vice versa, and you will never get peak power out of either bank. Maybe something to experiment with, as these minor tweaks make a huge practical difference on how much power you can get out of the same panels. Great project!
It’s coming along amazingly! Can’t wait till it’s finished so we can finally see some videos of you taking it out camping or road tripping or something!
Once you get all your wiring ran, you can route some 3/4” grey conduit with a couple of junction boxes. That way it will be easy to run additional circuits later on if needed. It’s cheap and it’ll look a lot better. It’s grey too, to match your walls. 😉
The Bluetti lights stay on all the time when using it. They are bright enough to light up your camper at night. I keep mine and my dometic in a room about 15'x15' and I have to put something over the front to block it. You may want to install it under the bed and run a power strip from it. Looking good so far. I love my Bluetti AC200.
I have a larger model of that buddy heater for my camper and I love it. I did end up getting a usb powered fan to push the heat around a bit better though
What is the max volts your controller can take? Wire your panels for max voltage. This way, if each panel only generates 2.0 volts due to cloudy/shady days, you'll still make 12 volts, which will charge the batteries.
Those will do you fantastic. I ended up going with the ridged glass panels because they were going to be permanently installed on the camper. This way the battery is charging when I'm out with my Jeep.
Awsome proyect man.. just a tip brother, If im not mistake, For best efficiency of the solar panels its recomended to not mix angles on the panels when they are in series or parellel.
Cody your picking up subs faster then you can shake a stick at lol. So 4K subs in just the month of February nice job keep this up and you will be on fire my friend.
Very true, but to do that I would have to wire all 6 panels in series to get max voltage. The problem with that is shading, if one panel gets shaded then I lose most of my power (even with bypass diodes). So to get the best of both worlds I did parellal/series in a 3S2P configuration.
It’s beginning to look like R2D2’s wiring for his body in there ! Lol. It’s all good bud ! You’ll be so comfortable in there you won’t want to build another one ! The only thing your missing is a closet with drawers ! I don’t know about you but those blue lights might keep me up at night ! Lol
Thank you, I was thinking some sorta robot as well for the look of the interior. But I'm sure I'll change some things around in the future so that the lights don't bother me.
Just found your channel. I saw your new Rubi, and this one. You get as excited as a kid in a candy store with your toys. Love it. (PS I was not staring at your ass you sicko)
Love the set-up ... Im looking to run an ( Dometic RTX 2000 Air Conditioner - 2000W, 12V ) do you think hooking it to a distribution box is a good idea ,,, or should I go straight in to the Bluetti aviation out-put ... any ideas would help .... Thanx👍 PS ,,,love the little wire holder's along the wall ...
I am sorry to tell you (perhaps others have mentioned it to) but the cables from your fuses to your junction box, is way to thin. If you have doubt how thick it should be, have a look at the cable from your cooler/freezer. I am pretty sure it will be way thicker. You might end up with a situation where the cable get so hot it melts and turn on fire (or the fuse will just blow out) Rest of it!! I just loves the build!
Only 10 gauge to the fuse panel? With the fridge connected, and a few other non -led items into that 6 panel block - will 10 gauge be enough? I'm wondering if at least a 6 awg main wire to the fuse block would be a better option. Led's dont draw much, but that fridge is gonna draw alot of amps and two or three more high amp items I think would be too much for a 10 awg wire?? Just my .02, I like to oversize wire to be safe. As a fire investigator, seen lots of fires caused by improper wiring!! Still love your build, maybe you did the math on the loads.
The 10 AWG wire can carry over 30A at that distance. So it more the enough. As for the fridge when it's running it only uses about 80 watts and since it's running at a regulated 13.1 VDC that means it's only drawing a little over 6A.
I know vanlifers use battery isolators to charge their house batteries (after the van's starting batter has been charged). Is there a way to do this, being that you're using a trailer?
Okay, starting at 11:22 you blew my mind. First off, you have some truly wicked and diverse skills! My compliments to you! Your rig is awesome! I’m a 60 plus gal who has been camping, RVing, most of my life, and mostly solo. I’m attempting the learning curve into the world of solar and my brain is fried. Numerous errors lead me to a Bluetti ac200. My goal is to be able to run my Costway 53 quart fridge/freezer unit. Solar is working, but most every time I plug I. The 12 volt fridge I get an f4 error. The car charge connector is crap, always loose, and every time it gets bumped I get the error. I have just plugged it into the ac port to solve the problem but that takes more power of course. The plug and cord you are making for the aviation plug to your Dometic I think might solve my problem. Do you make these? Can I hire you please to make one of these for me? I sold my RV last year and am outfitting a mini-van, but hope to convert a cargo trailer soon. Fridge/freezer is my essential for success. Do you have a web site and co tact info. Thanks for your excellent videos!
Unfortunately I don't have a website or build anything for anyone right now but I may consider it in the future. Also thank you very much for the kind words it really means a lot to hear from my viewers and subscribers knowing that they are enjoying my content. It's what's keeps me going lol. As for the aviation plug for the AC200P, Bluetti actually makes a factory made cable for the AC200P. It's just at the time of the video they were out of stock with no lead times so I was kinda forced into just making it, the hardest part was was just fine the proper aviation plug that would fit it. Now you can just go on Bluetti website and just order the aviation output cable from them pre made. All I did from there was just connect the positive snd negative leads to a fused distribution panel from Amazon and there you go. You have instant multiple 12v outputs for all your 12v needs. To include your fridge. I hope this helps you out and best of luck on your build!
@@CodeBrownProductions Thanks for your reply! Thanks to what you showed in your video I think I get the gist of what you are describing and I just may give it a shot. I have learned a ton in this journey, that I never imagined venturing into. Most of it the hard way, but hey, it keeps me in the game. Never thought at age 67 I would buy my first multi meter. Why not take the next steps. Best of luck to you. 👍
I don't have AC yet. But when I do it will be run by my generator. The Bluetti AC200P could run a 5k BTU AC for about 2 hours though if I really needed it.
@@CodeBrownProductions awesome!! I'm looking into building one or buying one and outfitting it with one as I potentially might be working about 7 hours from home for about a year and I dont want to have to pay the mortgage and a rental at the same time lol
I love your trailer set up. I also have the AC200 powering my van with only two SP120 panels from Bluetti. Come check out my rig, I'll have videos of the van up soon. Cheers
Too bad most of those units have cold temp cutoffs, so you won't be able to use it or charge it below freezing. You're better off with some deep cycle batteries, charge controller and an inverter.
You can still discharge LiFePO4 batteries in cold weather. You just can't charge them. Luckily when you discharge a battery they warm up bringing then to a safe charging temp. Also deep cycle batteries with inverter are the same chemical make up so the same problems would still exist. But I'm sure you already knew that.
@@CodeBrownProductions I have 5 lithium booster packs. Guess how well they perform at -30? The best packs have one boost in them, the lower capacity ones can't boost at all. These packs can usually boost a v8 at least 5 times in the summer. Then you can't charge them unless you bring them up to temp. My camper vans have always had a second led acid/agm battery so I don't have to worry about temperature. The new van will have 3 aux AGMs. I like to keep things simple. Lithium just doesn't work in cold climates. I thought about having an AGM battery heat a Lithium battery but that got complicated when automating the power delivery switchover. One other thing that doesn't work at -30 is propane. I hope your winters are mild.
