Moteur Stirling Alpha version 2014 

Hello, I already made the test without water but the engine runs slower. And an other bad point is that all the engine is heated and this can destroy the seals. The seals used are quadring seals. I tryed with FPM and NBR. But this kind of seals need to be lubrificated otherwise the friction is very important and it don't work. But oil pollutes the engine. And when the speed increases, it brakes the pistons. So it's a bad solution. I will try soon PTFE seals, like Andy Ross has used in its Stirlings. Do you know him? Have you read its book? If not, you should, it's really interesting. For me, he is a master in Stirling conception. I hope achieve its level, a day. If you don't have seen yet its channel, follow this link : ru-vid.com The PTFE seals are oiless, they have very low friction and are resistant at abrasion and temperature until about 280°C. For the position of the cooler, I think you're right. I placed it here because the V15 of Andy Ross is made like that. But I have to try to displace the cooler above the cold cylinder and to install a regenerator at the place where is currently the cooler. You will see soon if those modifications are successfull. Christophe

Titou016 Thanks for your reply Christophe! Yes, I read the book Andy for over 10 times, I whine for lack of availability of appropriate resources and tools to manufacture equals engines as your and of Andy. I am a great admirer of Andy, also got in touch with Andy, which authorized me your book available free on my blog: (manualdomotorstirling.blogspot.com.br/2013/06/livro-gratuito-sobre-motor-stirling-do.html) Translated into my language (Portuguese) and people of my country, to read the book translated. What is this PTFE? I met this PTFE pistons in Andy's book, but I have no knowledge as he is, and where to buy. You could send me a link, picture this material, or even a store that sells that PTFE, but do not know how you call this stuff in my country. Interestingly the reaction of your Alfa engine, in my Stirling engine Alfa homemade, the hotter the tube that connects the two cylinders, the greater the power, both in speed and in torque. I just do not leave, the temperature exceeds 90 º C, to avoid problems of overheating in the hot cylinder, because I do not have not even one type of cooling system to minimize the temperature rise. That's why I said to you, because in my motor the opposite occurs: (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xuVDthzkSpk.html). Yes, I also noticed that we can not use oil as a lubricant, because the sharp increase in friction at high speeds. In my engines, I use liquid silicone on the piston, but I spend the silicone and then make a strong polishing on the piston (piston glass), so I have a good seal and no friction, and did not need to make maintenance this last year . Obviously, do not put every day to work, only small times and a few times a month. However in my design, long rods it was necessary to reduce the friction of the piston on the cylinder, preventing occur with time, lock of the piston within the cylinder. I am now making a small homemade prototype (13 cm ³ engine Alfa Ross Yoke), hopefully within a few months to finish the job. The big advantage I noticed this project is the elimination of the inclination of the connecting rod, reducing lateral loads the piston on the cylinder, increasing the life of the piston. I have great difficulty finding a right balance for my engines! Do you have a literature on this subject? Or even a basic clue about dimension and weight of the counterweight, in relation to the set (piston + rod)? Because I noticed that their engines are stable. I do not need mathematical calculations, or if you have formulas, even better. But at least one basic rule that I can alleviate some of the vibration motors fabricated, because I do not have tools to make accurate counterweights, but if I have the basic knowledge of balance, I can develop closer acceptable. If you have something relating to this subject, I will be very grateful. If you are interested in knowing the new engine I am making the model Alfa Ross Yoke, look on my page: facebook.com/pages/Manual-do-motor-Stirling/292018690925248 If you would like to share more ideas or even discuss a particular subject, we could keep in touch by e-mail, so if you're interested. Because there are few people in the world willing to share. Good luck, the changes in your engine, will always be eagerly watching your news. Leandro Wagner.

Sorry I don't sell.

can you give me blueprint? or step files?

Bob Cannon Hi,You know, my Stirling engines are not yet efficient. The most powerful I have made for the moment is only 5 watt. I work for increase the power and I hope to achieve the same level that Andy Ross who is for me, the best Stirling maker. I advice you to look at its engines. Maybe you can try to contact him.ru-vid.com

Chris workshop I fully agree, for me, Andy is the best manufacturer. Leandro Wagner.

christoph boeck IIch bin frôhe dass du hast meine video geliebt. Hast du meine anderen Stirlingmotor video zu sehen? Ich werde bald veröffentlichen neue Stirlingmotor' videos.

Chris workshop I'm looking forward to seeing their new videos. I love watching their engines running. Leandro Wagner.

+mathieu poitony Bonjour et merci, Le piston chaud se prolonge d' un cylindre dont le diamètre est légèrement inférieur à celui du cylindre de chauffe. C'est l’équivalent d'un déplaceur dans un moteur gamma. Ce n'est pas pour une question d'arcboutement . Ce cylindre déplaceur présente un jeu de 0,7mm au rayon avec le diamètre intérieur du cylindre de chauffe. Ainsi le gaz de travail ( ici de l'air) et forcer de passer, lorsqu'il passe de la zone chaude à la zone froide et réciproquement, dans la section annulaire entre le cylindre de chauffe et le déplaceur. Ça revient à former une lame d'air de 0.7mm d’épaisseur ce qui permet de lui transférer la chaleur très rapidement à chaque cycle. Ensuite l'air passe de la zone froide à la zone chaude via la pièce qui les relie et qui est creuse. Je ne comprends pas la dernière question.

+Chris workshop Bonjour et merci pour la réponse. Si je comprends bien, le déplaceur se déplace dans un cylindre qui présente un jeu (0.7mm) sur toute la longueur (de la flamme jusqu'aux visses). Mais dans ce cas pourquoi la pièce semble faite en deux parties (avec une bride intermédiaire). Dans ma dernière question je voulais savoir si vous aviez essayé une configuration en moteur alpha (avec le fluide qui circule par l'avant du cylindre chaud) mais je ne pense pas sinon vous auriez surement posté une vidéo. Autre question technique : pourquoi refroidir le régénérateur plutôt que le cylindre froid (ce qui en théorie augmente le rendement)? Merci d'avance

+Chris workshop Bonjour, Ok je comprends mieux merci. Le moteur a pourtant l'air de bien tourner. L'architecture de ce moteur ne laisse pas de volume mort derrière le déplaceur contrairement à votre moteur gamma 16 cm3 (sur une autre vidéo), vous avez de meilleurs performances avec quelle architecture ? Merci d'avance.

+mathieu poitony Bonjour, Il tourne bien mais il a pas de puissance et vue la puissance de chauffe qui lui est appliquée, il a un rendement misérable. Mais c'est hélas le cas de la grande majorité des Stirling qu'on voit sur youtube. C'est un moteur simple, mais qui donne pas grand chose tant qu'on reste dans une architecture simple. J'ai bien des projets de moteurs plus complexes, mais le temps me manque pour les réaliser. Et je vais en avoir de moins en moins. Pour l'instant, mon meilleur moteur est un gamma. Mais en théorie c'est l'alpha le meilleur. C'est d'ailleurs ce que dit Andy Ross, que vous connaissez peut être? (ru-vid.com/show-UCRsp2rk2ArSnbAKWvoxnBeA). Le meilleur concepteur de moteur Stirling que je connaisse. Mais moi j'ai bien du mal à en faire un qui marche bien. J'ai de gros soucis d'étanchéité aux pistons dus à l'usure rapide des cylindres et ce, malgré des segments en teflon. Ce qui fait que c'est toujours décevant en terme de puissance et de rendement. Il faudrait que j'utilise un matériaux plus dure pour faire mes cylindres. Mais j'ai souvent du mal à me procurer de la matière. Mon 1er moteur à triangle de Ross, que je viens de terminer, est lui aussi décevant et je pense pas que je posterai de vidéo du coup. Comme je peux assez facilement le tranformer en alpha, je vais faire une tentative en ce sens et j'espère que cette fois ça va être un peu mieux.

+Chris workshop Bonjour, Oui je connais andy Ross, j'ai également pris connaissance de certaines sociétés qui fabriquent des stirling pour concentrateur solaire avec des rendements supérieurs à 30% ce qui est pas mal du tout (www.ripassoenergy.com/our-technology/). Vous avez mesuré vos températures max/min et rapports volumétriques pour comparer votre rendement au rendement théorique ? Peut-être qu'il n'est pas si mauvais compte tenu que votre moteur n'est pas pressurisé.

Oh I never count them. I think between 25 and 30.

madarauchiwa78 Salut,J'ai tenté de le pressuriser. Mais le Stirling est encore très mystérieux (en tout cas pour moi) et même si, en théorie, augmenter la pression doit augmenter la puissance, ben là c'est pas le cas. L'hydrogène, oui, trop dangereux. Mais l'hélium j'aimerais bien essayer. Sauf que pour ça faut une étanchéité tip top, et j'en suis malheureusement pas là. Ce qu'on voit pas sur la vidéo, c'est que j'ai essayé des joints en PTFE usiné maison. Beaucoup moins de frottement que les quadring et pas besoin de lubrifier. Ben va savoir pourquoi, c'est pire... Je bosse sur le Stirling surtout en période hivernale parce que j'ai plus de temps libre. Donc je vais pas tarder à m'y remettre. J'espespérais bien plus de ce moteur. Je vais continuer de tester des trucs dessus mais surtout, je vais partir sur un nouveau moteur alpha avec embiellage Ross basé sur ce moteur hallucinant de Andy Ross himself :1" Bore Yoke Drive Stirling Engine

lool oui je t'ai vraiment rien appris, je suis désolé de t'avoir importuné avec mon message de nul x). C'est vraie beaucoup de gens parlent de ce moteur comme une énigme vivante ^^, je suis désolé je suis pas mécano donc le jargon j'y comprends pas grands choses. Peut être ton histoire de joint qui ralenti le piston doit être due à un genre de vide qui doit ce faire et tirer le piston (enfin comme je dit je suis un gros nabo en réalité je tente juste de chercher une version qui marche bien pour l'acheter, donc si tu y arrives contact moi je suis preneur). En tout cas bonne chance l'ami l'humanité compte sur toi xD. Cependant l'idée de chauffé a l'hydrogène n'est pas faisable ? ou pas rentable ?

Dean Walcott No, the seals are not necessary. But the machining should be very accurate. your cylinder should be made first. It is not necessary to target a very accurate diameter, but your cylinder should absolutely have a very good cylindricity and a very low rugosity. After that, you machine the piston in function of the cylinder diameter you have obtained. You should to machine a very well adjusted piston with its cylinder. The backlash should be at max of 0,01mm. So by example, if your cylinder has a diameter of 30,06mm, your piston should have a min diameter of 30,05mm. If you have more backlash, there will be to much leaks and the engine will not run well or not run at all. Less backlash can be better, if your machine tools are enough accurate to make it. On top of that, you have to carefully select your materials to ensure that the piston will not jam in the cylinder. I used several times alu for the piston and brass for the cylinder and vice versa. But I think there are better couples. By example, I would like to try brass/cast iron. But I dont have cast iron.About the seals, for the moment all the tries I have made with pistons with seals are worst than with pistons without seals. I don't have yet found the good kind of seals. With seals, the sealing is good but the friction is very high. I have to find or make seals which have in the same time a good sealing and very low friction.

Chris workshop thanks for the answer one more question do you count the cc of both cylinders or just one

Dean Walcott both

Chris workshop I enjoyed reading this review, it was one of the most productive I have read, thank you for sharing such information. I've got a question, from what I read, you made this piston in aluminum and the cylinder in bronze. Is necessary to use lubricant on the piston with the cylinder? Or dry work? Leandro Wagner.

Manual do Motor Stirling - Leandro Wagner most people dont use lubricant because it gums up the engine and can even become dangerous in pressurized engines because the lubricant can explode because of a lot of heat and a lot of air

Prof Prawoto In this version, I used motor oil and the quadring seals of the pistons are lubrificated by splash lubrication. But in the new release of this engine, I have replaced the quadring seals pistons by new ones with machined PTFE oiless seals. But for the moment, it's unsuccessfull. Maybe, I have not the good PTFE, there are a lot of different kind of PTFE and this is not easy to obtain the good kind in low quantity. I will post a new video when I have succeeded.

this my email mnh247@gmail.com i need help

No, I don't know. But it's a small power for the moment. I have to make new pistons with PTFE materials. With this, I hope to achieve about 5W without pressurization. And maybe 20 with pressurization. You re probably disappointed by what I say. This is a very small power, but we must consider it's a very small engine and I have still a lot of work to obtain much more. On a video from greenpowerscience's channel they show an engine that supposedly produce 100w. Maybe you have seen it. But it's false. This is a V15 engine from Andy Ross. And Andy Ross said in his book that his V15 produce 6,5w.

I don't know, I have never measured. This engine was no satisfied me. It does no longer exist. It has evolved towards this engine that works much more better : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uwVDpKtBNsk.html&lc=z22nvjs4ttrauz04j04t1aokgj1xge21yctj0bzge41wbk0h00410

go on amazon

David Davids Yes you are right. This engine is far away to be efficient for the reasons you give and others. It is only a step in the way which lead me to my goal. at this time, I am thinking at the next I will make this winter. I have begun to design it.

Sorry I don't sell.

@@Chrisworkshop any plans available ?

maciej migacz Your question is very good and this is the main question in fact. The only thing which is important is the efficiency. I don't know how much it is exactly because I don't have the tools to measure it, but what I know is that is very very low. My efforts go in the direction of improving this efficiency. This winter, I have made a few modifications which have improved it a few. But I have a lot of tries to do yet. New seals that I have ordered and that I am waiting for. And I have make tries to pressurize the engine, but it worked very bad like that. Since, I figured out I have made a mistake with the pressurisation of the carter. So, I have to test a new solution and I have to machine a few parts to verify that. I do not have enough time to spend on this, which I regret The Stirling engine is known to have the best efficiency of all the thermic engines. But it is very hard to obtain a good efficency without big industrials means. I have a good workshop but, like you can imagine, nothing that can be compared with firms like Phillips, GM or NASA which have obtained very good results. So I slowly progressing.

Of the engine you build can produce 12KWh well it will be great. How much natural gas you use to run this think and how much it can pull out. U need to find out how strong the engine you build really is .

maciej migacz 12 Kwh is an energy not a power but I suppose you wanted to say 12Kw. A Stirling of 12 Kw it is very hard to find. If you find one, call me. Like I said it to you, the usefulness of this engine is to make tests whith differents solutions and architectures in order to see the ones which are the bests. I use gaz for that because it is much more simple than wood. This engine is very small and obviously it will never be powerfull. After that, when I will have sorted betwenn bad and good solutions, I will make a bigger engine to drive an alternator. And this one will not run with gaz but wood. It is to make CHP. I know that I will never reach a big efficiency of 40% like GM or NASA with the equipment that I have. But if I reach 20 or eaven 15% it is sufficient for me. It will always be better than nothing.

Dear Chris If you use 1m3 of natural gas in hour to run the engine in one hour then how much energy can engine produce in this time period? This is how my questions should be like. Then how to measure the how much KW engine can produce? If it´s possible to find out then it would be possible to find out if this beautiful piece of engineering produces more that it´s consume. I'm just try to develop the possibilities of this beauty (efficiency) :-) With best regards Maciej

@@Chrisworkshop An improvement in efficiency could also come from an insulated box around the flame and the hot spot, so it radiates less heat to the environment, and more heat is transferred to the motor, so hopefully, for a given rpm, the gas bottle can be turned down ever so slightly. Thank you for this excellent video.

C'est bien là toute la question. Je cherche encore.

No.

+Nazareth Gallardo Il y a une pompe

de agua???

Thank you :)