Moto Guzzi V7 III Tutorial - Replace brake pads on the rear axle [4K / English / DIY] 

There is corrosion on the cylinders, pushing tham back without cleaning and polishing them you are risking to damage the seals.

Hi, nice job. One quite important notice. When you push back the cylinders, do not open the pump reservoir, because you'll push back dirty brake fluid into the ABS pump, which can cause damage (You don't want to know how much it can cost;)). To push back the cylinders, unscrew the vent on the brake caliper, attach a hose, and push the dirty fluid into this hose. After you've done the job, pump the brake to ensure it feels firm, then check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it up if needed

This is a great video. Very clear step-by-step operation.

Gran vídeo me será muy útil. ¿Me podría indicar que modelo es el portabultos trasero?. No lo localizo en ningún distribuidor con esas barras de refuerzo que bajan hasta el reposapiés. Agradecido.

Thank you, very helpful. Definitely a video that I will use when it's time to replace mine.

Merci très bon tutoriel pour les novices. A prendre aussi en compte les remarques de certains commentaires. Bonne route.

Nice clear video. I have a 2018 V7 III. I do recommend cleaning and drying the area around the calipers before doing any work on the brakes and protecting anything around the cylinders if you are going to open any of the master cylinders as brake fluid is corrosive to many surfaces. Maybe I am just obsessive. Since you mentioned the screws were hard to undo I checked at the service manual. The torque for the rear caliper M8 fixing screws is 25Nm (18.44ft lbs). The front brake caliper fixing screws are M10 and need 50Nm ( 36.88 ft lbs) torque. There is no mention of using a thread compound on these caliper screws but I do put a tiny dab of the stuff on all screw threads anyway because I have had other screws loosen with vibration (e.g. lost my rear reflector). Where the manual does recommend using thread locker (such as on the brake disc screws) it is mostly Loctite 243(blue).

You would also check the rubber boot and lubricate the slider bolt with break grease while you got the caliper off to ensure it will "float" freely. :) The "thingy" on the bolts is a washer. All in all a good DIY video.

I'm pretty sure dudes at the factory didn't thighten the bolts at the specified torque and used a screw-gun. As you said bolts for the caliper are very hard to unscrew, tightening torque should be 25 Nm. As comparison torque for the oil filter on my Yamaha was 17Nm and you can tighten it by hand...

Good video, thanks

Thank you!

Does anyone here know the torque specs for those various bolts? I haven't been able to find that information.

Bonjour, merci pour cette vidéo, où avez vous trouver l'outil pour lever la moto car je trouve ça très pratique, merci.