🍺 If you enjoyed this video click this link to buy me a beer: www.buymeacoffee.com/thelonetrader 🍺 My apologies that my voice is a little hard to hear on this one. Something about the frequency of the cam whine just got picked up by my helmet mic and I couldn't really EQ it out. Hope you all like this review. The VFR has been one of my favourite bikes for the past year and a half.
Go up a size on the jets to sort out the flat spot, change to braided hoses to fix the brakes - makes a huge difference - 30+ year old rubber hoses just don't cut it. I have a 87 RWB just restored & 1 x 88 Rothmans almost completed restoring. Changing to roller bearings on the headstock makes the steering sublime.
Yep. They're not bad brakes but they just require a lot more effort than more modern machines. Glad you liked it. This one has been a long time coming.
Aha! Yes, I thought someone would bring that up. It's actually a speed warning light. Whenever the bike goes over 80 km/h it comes on. It can be seen as a warning or a target... depends on the mood of the day 😀
What's crazy right now is that vfr750's and vfr800's are going cheap as chips right now, and vfr400's are going for more it seems than their larger counterparts. Seeing the same with old fireblades too. Seems like riders and collectors are favouring the smaller bikes, I can only assume for the same reason I'm after an old 400. They rev like crazy, and you can use all the power on public roads safely and legally. Even a 900cc fireblade or vfr 750 with a top speed of 170+mph seems a little silly unless you're going on German autobahn or tracks. On UK roads/motorways what are you going to do? Rev all the way in first, then shift up throb fears while dropping revs and just cruise? It's fine I guess, but I'd rather have the mc22 or a 400rr or vfr400 and enjoying making it work a bit harder.
yea stuck needle and seats and or dirt stuck there is a bitch , so yea sorting the carbs is the most important part and then riding it regular enough so it doesn't get gunked up or draining the carbs if not ridden at all for winter
I've never understood why anyone cares about the "dry weight" spec. Unless for the purpose of shipping costs where every gram costs money, I don't see how a "dry weight" spec is relevant. Under NO circumstances is a bikes engine power competing against a "dry" load that it's trying to move. I vote that we completely drop the "dry weight" spec as it's pretty much useless.
Valid point. Maybe fuel can make an appreciable difference, if barely. I also never like crank horsepower figures. They're not applicable to the actual experience on the bike. Maybe I should make a point of only wet weight and rear wheel HP figures.
@@TheLoneTrader ah. I just read a post about it. It turns on at 80km/h on the japanese import bikes, wich functioned as a warning that you are over the speed limit. Since bikes at the time were not allowed to go faster than 80km/h on the freeway at that time
Second best honda ever first is nsr 400 2 stroke. Honda builds great 400 bikes. Had 75 400 four super sport in 78 loved it. Perfectvsoze and power for street. Anything bigger is ego cause a good 400 four is all you need for streets. If you race better bikes but for street anything bigger is wasted on 99% of riders as you would never reach a modern 400 fours limits and you know it, if you are honest. 600 and up is ego no where on street do you need 160mph bike. Lighter smaller is faster evetywhere but long straights
Quick question, any idea how to drain all the fuel from the NC24 tank/ bike without removing the tank? Any help or video ref would be greatly appreciated.
