I know this vidio is a bit old but it still has usefull info. He was Clearly not a mechanic before this experience. But comes across honest. And gives advice based on experience. Good vidio bud.
I'm also using strips of an old inner tube between the motor and frame to lessen vibration.I've used Moly blend bearing grease on the clutch gears and lever,in the chain tensioner and all the cables so they will last longer too.
To get the electric speedometer to work you get a ferrite choke to wrap around the wire of the speedometer and it filters out interference.. they're cheap around a few bucks
RULES BEFORE INSTALLING: #1: disassemble completely and inspect each part. #2: clean/grinde the flashing off your ports. #3: reassemble using gresse, oil and LOCK TITE.😎👍
@steve hill I think he means you have to grab a power grinder and rub all the burr's off of all the ports and then replace all the gasket's and then you will be able to have the police give you a ticket for being 5 over the speed limit on a one way street. Hey Rocket Man woooohoooo
IF you want your engine to break in good then take the top end off add gasket maker to each side of every gasket besides the head gasket. Add straight 2 stroke oil to the crank while the top end is off (dont go over board. half an ounce at most) and oil up the crank seals good either with a syringe and needle or take them off and lube them up.. If you do that then you should only need to do one tank of break in at 30-40:1 oil/gas ratio. The first time you start the bike let it idle till its warmed up then take it around the block once at low speeds. Turn it off and let it cool completely. 2nd time start it up idle till warm and ride it around the block once at the same slower speed then take another lap and this time give it some easy speed ups and slow downs. Nothing aggressive. Then let it cool down completely. The third time again take it around the block at low speeds then the 2nd time around give it some easy throttle ups and downs. The 3rd time around the block pick it up a bit but Keep the cruising speed under 20 miles an hour while moving through the rev range. After that stop let it cool completely and retorque the head bolts. After that break in is mostly done. Just watch your speeds and dont accelerate aggressively for long periods for the first tank maybe tank and a half. Theres no need for 3 tanks of 16:1 like the manuals tell you and there is no need for 3 gallons at 16:1 as long as you lube the engine up before the first time you start it up.
@@williambrucesanders6878 You can use a shorter chain but these chains will stretch during the first 50ish miles. Having the chain tensioner allows you to adjust for that easily. Some people will say its a death trap to put on because they will turn into your spokes. Thats only true if you put them on half assed. Just make sure the bolts are tightened evenly and check them before each ride. I usually add either lock tite to the bolts or hot glue worked well.
@@urmomsahoe1 ok thanks. How long should I break it in for? I barely went 1/4 tank? Seem like it's not running right idk never seen this shit in my life lol saw it on yt one day and ordered it . It's kinda fun actually. Any other tips? Oem plug ok ?
@@williambrucesanders6878 Whats your oil mixed to? 16:1? 30:1? 40:1? I run 40:1 out of the box. OEM plug is fine but I would switch to an nkg. I forget the exact one but you can just google ngk plug for motorized bike. When you say its not running right what do you mean?
Hi, if you ever want to get a spring controlled chain tensioner keep in mind that you will have re engineer it because when the bike is started with one of these; the spring lets the arm go too far down then the chain is too loose and gets bound up in the drive sprocket's housing.
Experience With Me Well, the spring chain tensioners do a good job of tensioning the chain after the engine is started provided you have the right spring on it, also you might want to extend the arm out so the two halves of the chain aren't so close together. the only way to get the spring tensioners to work when starting the engine is to make a stop so the arm can't go down too far or use the stock tensioner aswell to keep the chain from getting too loose during start up. I am also looking into using a half link to make the chain tight enough on its own during start up when the spring tensioner fails to do the job.
Experience With Me This is the one I have www.ebay.com/itm/111986211804?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. there is also a more expensive version but the only difference is that it comes with a skateboard wheel instead of reusing the stock tensioner wheel.
+Alain Baran I lived in Canada for two Winters and I had a motorized bike for one of those winners it was crazy to ride in the snow and experience fun and hard at the same time
As for break in it's best to vary the speed up/down. This allows for the rings to press against the cylinder walls breaking the rings in and plateauing the cylinder walls. It's also a good idea to remove & oil the connecting rod bearing prior to installing the wrist pin at the base of the piston. I use a good quality oil such as Valvoline VR-1 Racing. I also add several drops down onto the crank bearing then rotate the crank. These kits have likely sat for an extended period of time with little if any oil coating them. Also inspect & clean the cylinder and head chamber then lightly coat with oil. And do not forget to install the circlip that holds the wrist pin in place. Be sure it seats into the groove. I also lightly coat the upper and lower gasket for the cylinder with copper RTV. Do not glob it on. Very light coat. It will aid in prevent leakdown. It will carbonize when heat hits it allowing for a good seal that will resist oil.
as far as tension in your chain don't be a follower.... look into regular bicycle chain tensioners they cost like 4 dollars tops look into it. it hook around your your rim axle and you use the other piece to hook into your frame where the rim goes.... the tension is threaded to a 10mm nut ....tighten it and you begin pulling back the wheel..... perfection
Man in puerto rico is legal and the top speed my bike is 50 mph w 36 tooht sproker w racing carburetor and dirt bike Pipe . Never u pull grease un gear clutch side is make slip u clucht. Zeda motor sport. Com have engine w top speed crazy like 70 mph racing motor i like racing stile .good video thank
I stripped a head nut recently, I didn't notice the stud stand out on one stud that was +1/4" shorter than the others. I followed the advice not to bottom them out but stand out is equally important. I haven't found a oem nut just a temp one.
Thanks for the tips and info.I'm building my first and almost done.Half a capfull of oil in the cylinder to pre-lube the rings is good.I was told,by a mechanic and my Manual,to only use Synthetic Oils.I've watched Dozens of videos to see best ways to do these,but not One has said to drill a hole through the side of the chain tensioner and into the frame to put in a bolt to keep it from being pulled into the spokes.I saw too many 'disaster vids' without a bolt keeper.
BryDuhBikeGuy the trick to the chain tensioner is to NOT mount it too close to that rear sprocket. If you notice how small the diameter of that tube is. You want to mount tensioner closer to the pedals where the tube is more thicker. You'll be able to tighten your bolts really tight and still have room to tighten them if need be. Then when it's tight try pushing against it really hard with your hand, if it doesn't move at all then it's tight enough. Then tighten the plastic wheel bolt. Be sure to have flat washer and lock nut washer and then nut. Dont put it so tight where the wheel doesnt spin. The lock washer will keep it snug. I used a sharpie to mark on the flat metal where my bolt is to keep on eye on any movement of that wheel after riding. I haven't had any issues with tensioner moving around. Is not a bad tensioner as long as it's installed properly.
You do not need to remove the piston just removed spark plug and pour just like 3 tea spoons of oil inside the spark plug hole, and install spark plug, without the ingnition cap install, walk with the bike for 20 feets, or pedal with the bike for a block with clutch engage, now pour gas in tank and start you engine, and start the brake in process, do not use sintetic oil, use penzoil or lawnboy ashless, 40/1 for at least 2 gallons, then change the oil mix to 80/1 sabre amsoil, full sintectic and you will have a engine for life. I use this mix for all my 8000,00 dollars giants rc airplanes.
I don't think such a lean mix is good for a chinese-built engine like this.. expensive engines might love it, but something like this uses 16:1 for breakin, then 18:1 after that
penzoil IS NOT for air cooled engines. its a tcw3 marine oil. 80 to 1 will nuke this engine. its not a fucking aircraft dumb ass. the air is warmer down here. derpaderp. this engine has MUCH higher load than swinging a prop though air. your advice is shit. pure shit.
Question..what is the exact orientation of clutch rocker arm. And wire connection mine is all messed up..any help would be great..just got bike..also my muffler does not fit properly..and messed up one of the studs ..trying to pull it together..thanks
Grant Solder the clutch arm should be pointing back to the tire, watch the vid u might get a glims of mine. and also when connecting the wiring make sure to connect the engine wire "black" to the "black" wire on the CDI. and the "blue" engine wire to the "blue" wire on the CDI. and the 2 wires from ur kill switch, which is the wires coming from ur right throttle should connect to the CDI. it doesn't matter where to plug those, just make sure to plug them in tho. and also how is ur stud messed up?
@@-ExperienceWithMe- Hey nice GT Triple Triangle frame ...... the strongest frame made ! good choice ! unfortunately i crashed mine . but happy to say me and the motorized bike with the hard tailframe came out unscathed ! ha. ha !!!!
Loud pipes don’t save lives, riding defensively, paying attention, and knowing that drivers of cars don’t give a crap about anybody or thing on the road saves your life... if your lucky! I say this from experience, had loud pipes on a motorcycle, and the driver who hit me came from a side road, blasting her stereo loud enough to drown out any other noises. So loud pipes in my honest opinion is a myth! And if we want to ride our safety needs to be our first priority. Remember that driving is a privilege, but to have the freedom to transportation and the choice of how to do so is your right! So what ever you choose please choose safety first and wear protective gear!
It can handle up hills well as long you dont way alot. Its a good idea to go with a bigger sprocket if you live in hilly areas to help the engine go up hills much easier
So i have 2 questions : are you supposed to ride with the choke fully closed? And what is your engine max temp while riding? Say if it was 70 degrees outside. Thanx
theone2be33 hi thanks for watching. Ur supposed to have the choke on only when u first start it up to warm the engine up. When the engine is warmed up a bit and the engine sounds like it's about to die u need to open the choke all the way. If ur riding all the time with the choke closed u might have a air leak by ur intake. If so u need to fix it cuz ur riding ur bike lean and that's bad. And my max temperature ive ridden at was at 380°. U don't want to go past 400 cuz then ur doing engine damage. I have a high pressure head on the engine now so it stays at 230° all day and I also have a temperature gauge put on
Experience With Me ok thanx for the response. My first day to start it. Will keep choke open a little. Some people do with choke closed is why i asked. Didnt think that was right cause you're supposed to have a air to fuel ratio. Otherwise why have a air intake? Lol. Thanx again! 👍👍
Experience With Me just rode it for first time just now. For about 10 minutes at 13mph. Kind of shakes a little at slower speed like the front tire is gonna fall off. But i give it throttle and it runs smooth. Temp got to 300 degrees after i shut it off. So not bad. I know i have to take it easy during breakin period. Not looking to break speed records just wanna have relaxing rides
theone2be33 congrats on ur build and first ride. Make sure to wear gear just incase someone hits u. If it jerks a little at slow speeds that means ur going a little too slow and the engine is about to stall. If u have a manual take a look at it and see what they recommend for break in period speed. Also make sure to mix 8 ounces if 2 stroke oil in a gallon of gas and shake it real well. Then pour it in ur tank and ur good to go. After ur done with brake in u can mix 4 ounces instead of 8
you are very smart i removed my cylinder head and lo and behold the piston is on backwards and i take blue lock tight to all the bolts everything if you want it back of just add heat
That speedometer stuff is completely false. All motorcycles have body ground. If your speedometer is messing up its because you have it grounded somehow when it shouldn't be. Another possibility is electromagnetic interference caused by the spark plug and yes a register plug can help with that. But it would not cause your speedo to measure up like that. Maybe you got a bad.speedo
@@BigRichardsGentlemensClub maybe. The weird part is I set it up correctly and it messed up every time I tried starting the bike. BTW thanks for watching :)
@@BigRichardsGentlemensClub I don't know of any BICYCLE speedo using a ground... most are plastic and battery operated! I discovered my interference problem AFTER swapping out my iridium plug to a stock non-resistor plug. Not only did it goof up my speedo, it messed with my stereo and my BDC controller. I have a hybrid bicycle (gas & electric). Every thing runs flawless with a resistor plug. Also a bicycle speedo isn't going to use a three or four layer board to help shield it from interference... why would they, bicycles don't generate any electromagnetic interference .
Steve Dresen uhhh... yeah, but we are riding motorized bikes. I use a vapor stealth console on mine. It wires directly to the battery and frame to power the unit, compute data and to read the lights and turn signals so it can send a signal to the indicator dashboard. I've had no problem with spark plugs causing interference. But if you are using a non grounded button cell battery operated clip on speedo that gets its reading from a damn magnet, then you may have issues since the whole damn frame is carrying a charge. You ever heard a walkie radio "teleport" it's signal into someones car stereo? That's what your ignition is doing to that 10 dollar speedometer.
I highly recommend removing the petcock and checking to see if the filter has debris and cleaning it. Then put thread tape on the petcock and reinstall it
You might also have to take the petcock itself apart to clean it. Yours should have to screws that keep everything together. After you take it apart there's a little rubber piece in it. Clean it then reinstall
To a point. If everything is torqued, speced and aligned properly, shouldn't matter much how fast your going. High rpm obviously generates a ton of heat and wears parts faster, but thats what they're built to do. Weedwhackers and other small tools that use 2 strokes run at 9 or 10k tons basically constantly for their life, these are kind of just poorly designed if we're being honest. I added a CPU cooling fan to mine via the stator wire, runs a light and the fan great and i feel its extended my engine life, on cool days the engine is only warm at the end of a ride instead of scalding hot, heat is a bigger factor with these than high rpm.
Oil on bicycle chain is a complete waist and mess. I use a chain tensioner that is connected to my engine. I have a hub adaptor. I have no need for a roller. Chain is very straight and very smooth. Don't know what kind of tensioner you use. But once I installed mine, I have been 100 percent trouble and maintenance free. I had to make a slight bend on tensioner to get the perfect alignment. Also removing that heavy roller saved a lot of weight. Less vibration without that dumb and dangerous roller. Peace
Capt. Bacon try out Bikeberry.com i heard they got reliable engine kits. Also try out ebay and amazon. make sure to look for good reviews tho. i got mine from amazon.
If it's your first time building a bike do not buy an engine on Ebay or Amazon, buy one instead from zedamotorsports.com/ the reason is that first of all chinese parts are junk and if you get a bad part good luck getting it replaced. With the site above you will get faster support. Plus they also sell other parts you might need...like a chain tensioner.
S Welsh I wish I knew about that earlier. I would have gotten one from there. After riding for about a week I've been having issues with the chain tensioner but I think it'll work better with a spring actuated one
We have the real deal with the performance packages for $300.00 and our bolts and hardware are much better not to mention you get real installation instructions and advice on fuel mix ratio for the new motor and temp conditions. I help people avoid all the mistakes. FRED @ CR MACHINE he has the really high end motors and heads FREDS HEADS. Your choice if you want a real decent engine that will run right out of the box. HARLEY BEE MOTORIZED BICYCLES. THE REAL MCCOY
Hi again. Is there supposed to be a lot of vibration in handlebar grips? And i am having trouble getting engine to turn over quickly the first start of day. Im pedalling and pedalling forever trying to get it to turn over. Once it does and warms up its fine. Am i doing something wrong? What should i do differently? Thanx
theone2be33 when does it vibrate? If it's when ur going fast it's normal. If it's vibrating alot then check and see if u have loose bolts where it mounts.if it's having a hard time starting u might have ur choke off,u need it on for the first start up. U you do have the choke on, try having the choke half way or 75% on. And also when ur pedal starting make sure to give it a little throttle all at the same time u help the engine start. Please let me know if that helps.
Ok. So vibration is when going fast. Guess it's normal. Yeah i have choke on, I've primed it, i pedal, drop clutch, nothing, even when its seems like it wants to start i give it throttle and it just doesnt want to start. Every vid I've seen they just hop on and go like nothing. Im pedalling until my legs feel like rubber all for nothing
theone2be33 also make sure the 4 nuts on top of ur cylinder head are nice and snug. I bought my kit and had a hard time starting it too just to find out the 4 nuts on top of the engine head were loose. Also check if the 2 nuts on the intake are snug and carburator is also snug.
Experience With Me everything is tight. I check it every day for tightness. I pump the primer like 4 or 5 presses. Is that not enough? I have no idea how much is in the bowl
ad a ram air tube from your carb faceing forward with the filter it alow your engine to breath better and stop the bogging and idling and a bottle check my channel out all capitals MATTHEW STEVA video ram air system bicycle 80cc but have it the tube short you can look up other are doing it
you shouldn't need to run 3 gallons of gas, it's a two stroke just let it run and get hot for 10 minutes and kill it. once it heats up good it's pretty much broken in
I mean you can but it's pointless to wait that long to open it up. Let it idle for 10 to 15 minutes and shut it off and let it completely cool down. That allows the piston to expand and cool down which is plenty good for a break in
Charles Boley i just never heard of this before. but if its true then thats pretty interesting. thanks for the info. but just to be on the safe side i always follow what thw manual says. they don't put down #s for nothing. they do test on them and see which engine lasts longer while doing break ins. 200-300miles seems to be the sweet spot for the Chinese engines
john malone when u break in the motor you need to go 10-13mph. after you break the motor in then u can bring ur speed up 21mph. u can go faster but the manual doesnt recommend it. might not be fast but its very fun to ride. :)
john malone this engine doesnt use the bikes rear gears. it uses a separate gear which is on the left side of the bike. when u buy these kits they give u a 44tooth gear or aka "sprocket". so far i changed to a 38tooth sprocket which gives me a 23mph steady speed instead of 21mph with a 44t. i recommend using a 36tooth instead of a 38tooth. youll get a little more top speed but u will lose a little torque power at lower speeds.
cnmckenna lol no when I first right away got the engine I put in the wrong spark plug and the spark plug hit the piston and screwend my piston and cylinder. And the clutch wasn't my fault, the pinion wasnt screwend in all the way so it ate my gear teeth up😂😂
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
If you have had motor bikes and use 2stroke oil in the fuel mix you do not have to take the piston out - read the instructions and exercise common sense - this video is well-meaning but it waffles and is for dummies imo...
Laurie Allan my man, i never took the piston out to oil the engine. this info is for people that know nothing about engines. when i did my build i new nothing about engines. my manual said to put some oil in the cylinder head before the first start. it didnt say how much so i took the head off and oiled the walls by hand. and yes i kno theres oil in the mix, but when you first start ur engine the cylinder is dry and u dont want to pedal ur bike dry in the first start.
Laurie Allan Yea that sounds good. i heard that 1 teaspoon is good too for the first time. the path i road was a closed off path no one was on it. i only rode on it for the video. the path is like only 80ft long, its a tiny loop path.
Experience With Me Nearly done, just got to shorten the chain. I have seen a flange that fits around the hub and drives the chain rather than the spoke-driven cog that is provided - they come from the States so i have emailed for details. These units are heavily modded as the fixtures and fittings are cheap i.e. HT lead, air and fuel filter...
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome
check out the seedless grapes Channel on RU-vid it has lots of good motorized bike tips tricks and advice I just found the channel a couple days ago it's awesome