I appreciate you featuring me on the channel. A few notes, my RU-vid channel is actually Whiskers The Fish, as in a cat's whiskers. Also, since that video was posted I fixed most of the issues you noticed. I cleaned up the handlebars, fixed the air leak, and re-installed the exhaust cap. I still ride it and it has over 3,800 miles on it now. Other than that I added a milk crate on the rear rack for extra utility use. Always enjoy the videos, keep it up! I will try to make time to upload a follow up video on my bike soon.
I removed the fenders they were rubbing the tires. I added the brakes and mirrors . I have a couple of newer videos with all of the upgrades that you've mentioned 🥂
3:50 this is the one major thing that saved my first build as a total noob. I absolutely did not trust the idea of having an indirect contact between frame and engine block, so I simply cut and adjusted the bike frame to allow the engine mounts to be more true flush on each side. (had to make the seat post to bottom frame pole angle more obtuse.) Used a series of bolt throughs and clamps to secure the two cut points on the frame, then used high tensile strength metal shaving epoxy on those to help anchor them longterm. Would have welded if I'd had access, as it's an aluminium frame, but it works for what I need it for.
You put a nut on the gas tank stud then use an extra set of the mounting straps on the top of the frame and you can tighten the mounts without pulling the studs out of the tank and you should get enough air gap between the tank and top tube to run the brake/derailer cables. I think im gonna try a 40 tooth rear sprocket next.
5:40, oh hey, it's the same 100cc block I own! Love these, they're little beasts. If you port polish, bolt em down hard on a good gasket and slap a cheap expansion banana exhaust in, they'll make good, reliable power with a nice sound with VERY little fine tuning. Great little blocks.
LA Hover does it again! thanks for the video and featuring peoples bikes and channels! The frame is a Kent La Jolla with a zeda 80 tripple 40. 12g spoke rims and the laid back seat post was maid by Hughes Motorized. you wont crush the bike my dude i weigh 250 he makes it out of 5/8 solid steel rod and welds a base on to fit your bike.however it does move the weight back over the rear wheel so cant say how the rear wheel would fair on one of your bumpy backwoods roads but for street cruising i know yould love it because of your hight it will move you back away from the bars a little more.anyways thank again my friend talk at ya soon!
Love your channel. Once seen, similar to an old air-cooled VW surrounding the engine with directional cooling tin to force more air around the engine the faster you go. Haven't been able to find it again. If VW made it work it's worth looking into.
Hey LA! Thanks for including my build in the video! :) Since you asked the frame of the bike, its a ,,Giant team world cup 26'' not sure but I think its an M size. For the cables under the tank, I don't use my gears and my rear brake is now working with a cable housing from the lever straight to the brake and its under the clamps for the tank so it doesn't get squished (its positioned like the throttle cable). I tightened the chain tensioner and as soon as i got my yd100 kit i upgraded the wrist pin clips :) And yes i do ride the bike a lot! Thanks for the kind words, and indeed this is my first build! I probably did a good job with it because of your videos before I decided to build it I watched lots of your vids. :D
Hey! Just a math note on the remark about the washer adding more area / friction. Friction is NOT a function of area, it's entierly dependent on the forces and surfaces being clamped together. More area is more surface for contact yes, but it's also more surface to spread the force over, so the amount of static friction held remains the same regardless of the area of contact! Just some fun maths for ya :p A larger washer under thre will keep things from deforming as easy under stress though! The longer lever arm it provides will anchor the bolt and nut better. against lateral forces.
I might submit something next round. Maybe Mk4 or Mk5. The 4 was the bike I used ro really get experimental in the hobby, from building a PVC boost bottle (works as well as a bought one!) to building an auxiliary fuel tank mounted on the rack. The 5 is probably more unique, being the electric front hub hybrid build
I run cables under tanks as long as there two spaced properly inside the sheathing I can tighten the tank and the cables stay moving and the tank doesn't. It took me two years to think of just leaving the sheathing on the cables cause on most bikes they have those Lil holders that hold the sheathing and then span over the bar with just the cable exposed and I use to use all these things with pvc pipe cut in half and tons of other things but then it just clicked to put the sheathing back on and bomb it was so simple and so clean and most importantly so freakin easy. So try that next time but that works for me.
The first bike you audited had a front finder on it and in my experience is very dangerous. My build had finders and both broke at the the wield. the first was the rear one which when broke mangled my rim all up. Stupid me didn't learn from this and kept riding with the the front finder still attached. Until shortly later it too broke loose and locked my front tire up which on a bike is the wort thing that could happen. I stopped dead which sent me flipping forward face first into the pavement. It happened so fast my hands never left the handle bars. If not for my regular bike helmet I surely would have died that day. Even with the helmet I received a 4in laceration across my forehead and am now paralyzed on the whole top right of my head. I also broke my check bone in three different places and now have to be careful when I blow my nose or it will pop my eve out. On top of that I tore some ligaments in my neck and had to wear a neck brace for three weeks. So now I ride with out finders and also use a full a motorcycle helmet riding gloves and for arm guards. The latter two are for the dogs the jeep running out in front of me. I mad a vide about riding safe with the right PPE for those interested in seeing the injury's a front finder caused me check out here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nzFkg63_vBc.html BTW @LA Hover Bikes I love your videos and am technically still a noob at all this but am learn so much from your channel. thanking for the incredible useful information your share with all of use. I am a subscriber and try to like every video of your I watch.
18:50, it is not a cranbrook, it is a "Pegas" , a Romanian brand, they came from factory with ape hangers and long seat, the model name is "strada 1", really confortable and sporty, i don't do much cruising with this "cruiser", i'm full throttle most of the time, max speed is 60 km/h, not sure how it is in mph, maybe 40 or something, thanks you for subscribing, now i got 800 subs 💪👍
I made myself an ultra hybrid bike..pedal, gasoline and electric..I took my front motor electric bike..it's the first model that Shimano makes..for very long rides and Helped on the big slopes..because I stay in the mountains..damage my 100cc has to scrape because of the rope crink which is debated after 2 years so I put a pk80..goes very well, almost original..But when I'm going at full speed I have a sort of scrap metal noise but not all the time...that's it, you can do it because of the break-in...and what's more my fuel is mixed for a boat engine from the 80s Entk will be well oiled to start.. then I want to switch to 2-stroke oil for high performance motocross
Hey brother... another good video as usual...iv ran the 40 tooth gear and the 36 is better if you are riding on the street because it still turns too many rpms unless you just going to run around 35 MPH.... but it does pull pretty good..
2:23 If you wanna save a new frame from getting scratched to hell during test fitting & installation. Use some electrical tape tightly wrapped around prone areas. I really wish I had done that to my brand new frame before test fitting. After the first few scratches, I put some tape on. After install you can cut off any exposed tape if you think it looks ugly. The tape being left on hasn't caused any mounting issues.
I had to open up the hole in one of my sprockets. Opening the hole is no problem, getting the sprocket centered afterwards was a nightmare, I can get it pretty close but not perfect.
Or maybe use the same pedals and sprocket and use that as a jack shaft and use the Same chain and the transmission sprockets to instant sprockets to push it forward
How would you fix 4 stroking at mid to max throttle, or where would you start? Idle to half throttle is perfect. So far I advanced timing as far as possible without modification of the woodruff key on the magnet, and carb pin is set in the middle and running b7hs plug and clone exhaust. Otherwise it's an out of the box chinadoll with a hub adapter running premix from home depot on a 36 tooth sprocket. Loaded question I'm sure but I could use a good starting point point
I got the same kent seachange for $69 a few weeks ago. I took off the fenders, but the coaster brake already locked up on me. I'm going to email kent about it and see if I can convince them to help me out with rim brakes and a regular freewheel axel assembly.
Hey if you could help refer me to a guide or something about a couple videos of yours i recently watched. I was looking at the New Zeda 80 Complete 80cc 2 Stroke Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit - Firestorm Edition : I'm not sure of what size of sprocket I'll need and what the difference is between the cylinders, where can i learn more about that? If you could help me out, I'd HIGHLY appreciate it. Thanks for taking the time for reading this.
where can i buy shocks like that easy rider hyper bike has? i got a huffy capitol(basically a cranbrook). does that hyper come with those shocks or something?
Ive been having an issue with tuning my bike, ive gotten it to the point where it will run and at open throttle it will sound like a regular 2 stroke sometimes it breaks up a little but backing off the throttle a little and then going back to full fixed it. im not sure if getting up to speed if it sounds good or not since this is my first 2 stroke anything so im a bit lost there i think it sounds normal but who knows the issue is at very low speeds it starts to lug and it wont idle im thinking I just have it to rich and its flooding itself but thats just my guess any help would be appreciated thank you.
I bet he thinks the pencil is going to keep it from vapor locking. .old timers use to put wooden clothes pins on fuel lines on cars .. and wooden spacers under the carbs... to keep it from vapor locking.....
That expansion chamber on the first one that's what they need I think I've never built one hahaha. but seriously 80ccs can't spin them on dirt real good?with one gear even. gear come on man I thought we was better than that. Not to the creator of this video but to do the kit makers. Seems like somebody could engineer one that could do that easily I'm no expert not even a casual. But I've had a damn strong CR80 before.
on my build i have a battery powered LED light zip tied above the front fork. its super bright at night and has flashing modes for riding during the day 😇
I’m having trouble with my bike. I have compression spark and fuel. I replaced the cdi magneto and spark plug. I think i need a new carburetor but I’m not sure. Please I’ve always wanted a moterized bike and I finally do and I don’t want to sell it. If you can help that would be such a blessing
Impossible for me to answer with no information about your bike and budget. But the Gemini Wheel set by Will Kidd, and Serfas Drifter is the best combination I have used. gemini-bicycle-products.myshopify.com/collections/all www.amazon.com/Serfas-Drifter-Tire-FPS-2-0-Inch/dp/B000ULU7SY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1QBBOUVCEMQ73&keywords=Serfas+drifter+tire&qid=1664304722&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjU1IiwicXNhIjoiMS4xMiIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=serfas+drifter+tire%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-2
