My question is and I do appreciate your video clips on having trouble with but so I put them in and then Vegas connect to the bar. Pinhole on top it doesn't matter that's my question
I wish I had a friend or neighbor who knew about these bikes, just to kinda help me learn and get started on these bikes.... It seems kinda risky to start spending the money on these engines without the know how....
It is frustrating that most piston kits and pins never come with the bearings but I found one on Amazon that comes with pin, clips (good ones) and wrist pun bearing for same price as just the pin and clips! It's from seller, "DONSP1986" I've also found other motorized bike items from this seller to be of the best quality. The best quality one can expect from redistributed Chinese parts that is.
Thanks I wish I would have got a friction it would have been done easier but they didn't have none and stacked when I was trying to get it I would say by 1 I have a good one
17:55- aww damn😅 Did the same thing recently, that can be frustrating. Thanks for the step by step again. These vids are much appreciated because of that, along with the tips.
I hope you're doing well, my latest nightmare / project is a Honda ruckus. I need to replace the gas tank & cap . It was left unused for 6 years. Sigh, vids when I dive into this !
After you put a new Piston and cylinder on the yd100 are you using 16-1 aka break in fuel again or are you going to just continue your regular mixture. Also how many tanks are you going to use to break it in?
Thanks again for another useful video got this saved to the 2stroke Playlist so I can easily go back and watcher again if I come across any problem 😀 thanks bro
bro I was listening closely to ur first comment.u metioned something about a key way r u referring to the woodruff key it acts like a shear pin..I lost engagement I heard something give and immediately shut down although I noticed it was catching I heard a metal on metal snap and sound I believe I just sheared the key way so I did not attempt to driving but no it was catching I knew something was wrong and I heard it break so I just disengaged the clutch and peddled to do no further damage how easy is it to replace that Woodruff key do I need a puller I have built over 10 of these bikes sometimes you get better quality than others that's just the way it is with these. As I'm sure you know a lot has to do with the break-in and how you ride it I cannot emphasize Loctite enough where is it is able to be applied of course I'm not talkin on the head bolts tell when I get a new motor I like to take them apart and make sure everything is good this particular one I did not it was running perfect stock except for expansion chamber and NGK spark plug I have had other issues with these but never this happen do you have any advice I have six other Motors I use for parts my best build ever was on a beach cruiser I put on a hub adapter 32 tooth sprocket I broke it in with bigger carburetor and true expansion chamber although I must say my first tank of gas I would let it heat up without a load on it cool down ice cold and then after that tank was almost empty take it on a ride always varying the throttle that was my best build ever I kid you not bike went over 58 miles per hour once it was hot and of course something happened with that one that it got stolen it was my best build ever I was super pissed about that I love these bikes though they are the way to go please let me know if you have any info about replacing the key because I think that's what my problem is I know all about the clutch plate and pads something gave I hope it did not go into my case luckily had enough sense to turn it off immediately but it was trying to catch as if part of it was still there that's what tells me it was a Woodruff keyway young people call it a half moon I am familiar with the flower nut adjustment it is not that I have yet to take it apart but I miss my bike so I need to have one running again any tips you got for me do I need a puller I don't have fuel. That one came in originally
Your mistakes like "put the cylinder on backwards, I sure did" and "if that wasn't a big enough kick in the nuts" are one of the reasons I subscribe to this channel...makes you very relatable...you keep it real and you should make a "mistakes out-takes" video...and on the subject of break-in oil ratio (16:1) my take is it is for getting the "dry" engine lubed up and avoiding piston/cylinder damage (it actually slows the break-in of such) also it has been shown that anything richer than 20:1 provides no extra piston ring sealing...so in conclusion I would run 16:1 or a new engine but no richer than 20:1 for a new top end break-in.
Hey, cool video. Lot's of good info. Also concerning your gasket making techniques, wouldn't it be easier to simply trace out the old gasket you're replacing? Oh and what an awesome riding buddy you have. Say hi to Henry for me.
Sometimes, making gaskets for chainsaws and trimmers to cut the round part for the cylinder bolts (in this case for the studs) I would place a ball bearing over the hole and punch it with a hammer, the ball will cut a hole on the gasket by pinching it when it accomodates on the stud hole.
Hey man i've been looking for videos on how to make these things softer but all i can find is videos on how to make them louder. You seem to know what's going on. Any suggestions?
So i've been messing around and i found some solutions: 1- cover the clutch cover with rubber alot of noise comes from the gears inside there 2- put small pieces of rubber between the fins of the motor. 3- put rubber between the motor and frame 4- wrap the muffler. I tried packing it but there was too much restriction and it wouldn't start 5- build a box around the carburetor and fill it with steel wool. this will take out most of the high pitched whinny noises and drastically reduce vibrations. It's a bit of work and there's a lot of tinkering you have to do but the end result is something that sounds more like a motorbike and less like a weed wacker. also because the bike vibrates less it's easier to take it up to higher speeds
What do you mean by softer do you mean quiet the stock exhaust is super quiet compared to what I run if you want quiet go Electric either that or get a 49 instead of a 66 you can add baffling to it will make it much quieter but I must warn you it takes away from speed. Type of Motors run on the air fuel mixture you can make it as quiet as you want but you will not get performance you want silent go Electric. In my opinion I like an engine I don't want batteries
RU-vid has stopped sending notifications where a channel someone has subscribed to has posted a video. If I had a way to do it, I would let them know that it is much better to get those notifications.
In your opinion, which motor is the one you like most...Iam wanting to do a conversion but don't know that much about the various motors. Any help would be appreciated.
La hover im enjoying this cooler weather too just about 6 weeks or so were getting 99to100 actual and feels like 103-105 of course a few nights ago it 50 degrees and i was freezing had to pull out a blanket
Those videos i linked are how to cut a slit in the piston hole to be able to install the "C" wrist pin clips so they dont destroy a head, piston ring set and piston due to the ears snapping off :)
Thanks search for thanks for the videos I think I could put the clips on what's the difference between a 6680 in cheap a TI-84 Plus work by friends got one
Never ran into this myself but from what I have heard is, as long as the sparkplug is not contacting the piston, the motor is simple to hot... Running to lean, to much oil, full throttle for to long, and a hot plug rating. Probably a combination of the above would do it.
@@LAHover thanks bud but how is ur phantom running? My 1st 2nd gen all types of metal fragments were in the crank case and got it to jug and blew it up now the place I got it from is telling me to break in at 25 to 1 and then 20 to 1 from there out .what have u been running ur at?
I have a rough mid/high throttle on a zeda triple 40. Takes off great with good power but after I get it to mid or high she's nothing but 4 stroking. I'm still in break in and I'm running 16.1 ratio as the manual states. I have adjusted the NT carb. Any tips?
if you are passed one tank, go ahead and switch to 32/1. That alone should help, but if it still struggles, try moving the needle clip up 1-2 notches (leaner). And if that does not help get a smaller jet.
Hello i was wondering if i should pull my head and check how my jug is doing have a second hand motor have no clue what the miles on it are prob close to 200 i do ride it a bit and some times it seems to strugle for a moment then its fine but can i just pull the head check and slap it back on if i dont mess with the gaskit just clean the suface i also have 2 spare jugs that have been fully ported not shure if ill use them yet think i may up load a vidieo if i find my jug to be dammaged just making a list of what to put in it at this poit hahaha
What oil gas ratio would you recommend for a 2 stroke motorized bicycle? Also what would you suggest a good way to seal an air leak where the carb connects to the manifold?
ice yaj I put some red gasket maker over the slits on the carb then put the clamp on and put some tape around it. It did not fix the leak 100% but it idles for a while and revs come down slow but come down.
My best top speed with the yd100 is 42 MPH on flat ground. Here is the set up and video link. 26" frame, 36 tooth sprocket, ngk b8hs, port matched and polished. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-a1QiurRLI.html
change ur sprocket put on a expansionchamber ngk plug nt carb is fine when tuned correct. dont go crazy and waist money on boost bottle also make sure u break in correct .remember these r 2 stroke motors break in is everything .then tighten everything up make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks air fuel..that's the best advice I can give u bro
mine makes really loud squeaking noises which seem like their coming from a bearing inside the shaft that goes from the drive sprocket to the clutch. the problem is they’re plenty greased and it only squeaks when it’s warm. and whenever I let off the clutch that really raspy noise progressively gets louder each time I run it. I don’t ride the clutch and I try to make sure the engine rpm matches my speed every time I let off so it’s not like I’m hard on it. oh and it only idles when it’s cold, not when it’s warm for some reason. I thought that was only a problem for larger cc 2 strokes lol
Don't feel bad I mite of done it when I was younger. Hay when r we goin 2 the motoos. I'm still buildin my chopper. I also found out it's a quad 40. Bore stroke intake & exhaust. I'm mostly waitn on a front cnc mount. Cause the frame is so long. Reoder it twice. Cause amozon prime lost it. I've been havin trouble findin a rear wheel 4 it. I'm runnin a 26 on the front on a dual springer. The rear a 24x3 tire. But the problem is the rear frame is 4 1/2" axel openin. So I need a 4 1/2" hub. On th rear wheel. Do u have any ideas ? Thanks. I'm glade y'all made it through.
I just don't know what to do about upgrading it I wanted to do a different head and stuff I wanted to shave my cylinder just to play with it and I look at it and it's one piece
I recently picked up a 66cc with a 1 piece jug. after removing the jug it does look like you can fit a two piece kit on it, but you would have to drill and tap it for studs. It currently uses smaller alen bolts.
@@LAHover yeah I didn't notice it until it got to me it said 80cc on eBay and now I'm hip to looking at other things but it has the Allen bolts around the rest of the motor so I thought it was just a newer updated one
I click like like I think I could put these clips and just fine I think anyways what's the difference between in 80 my friend's got 80 and I got to 6680 I mean his has a lot less work and was cheep
Commonly know as the 66/80cc motor. Although there my be slight differences in parts and quality they are the same motors. 66cc is the American displacement measurement.
