I love his videos, and I love his insights in MotoGP. This man is beyond humble, yet has an ocean of knowledge, combined with experience, that he offers up for free on his channel. Thank you Simon!
Great video Simon, I’ve stumbled onto Motovudu by chance and am now addicted to your track videos. You are the only person I know of who has been able to explain the leg dangle during heavy braking all the riders do. BTW congrats on the new pit lane commentary role mate.
@@motovudu hey Simon. I too stumbled across your channel when trying to prep for a track weekend in Jerez, in less than 2 weeks now. Your explanation of the track is class. I'm pouring over it almost daily! Doing it on a 2003 cbr-600rr. Wondering what your litre track bike of choice would be? For around a budget of 6,000 euros? Any suggestions are welcome!
Simon, Enjoy your work on the MotoGP crew. I have a 2011 GSX-R750 (L1) and here's what I've done: (1) Yoshi Alpha slip-on, (2) Bazzaz Z-Fi fuel controller, (3) Bazzaz Z-AFM auto-tuner, (4) Bazzaz Z-Bomb timing retard eliminator, (5) disabled SET butterfly valve, (6) Puig windscreen, (7) Yoshi billet aluminum engine case covers (crankshaft insurance), (8) Vortex frame sliders, (9) TechSpec Snake Skin tank pads (super sticky), (10) K&N air filter, and (11) EBC HH sintered brake pads. I weigh 185 lbs but I had to take as much preload as I could out of the stock shock (until I ran out of threads), and I barely got the sag in the right range. It's like the stock spring is too stiff. Question: Would you have raised the front if it didn't have ABS?
I have a stupid question. What do you call a turn ? 180 or 360 degree? I assume it is 360, but sometimes it seems to be 180 on the video. Can you confirm that ?
This probably the most helpful video I've found on the internet to set up the 2017 gsxr 1000r. Just curious but doesn't the weight of the rider play in on how to set up the suspension? How much does Simon weigh?
I did this quick start because I believe that this will make the standard bike better on circuit for almost everyone. If you are more serious than an occasional track day rider you will most likely need harder springs (unless you are extremely light). I'm 78 kilos.
"TEN" is for tension, Simon. Another thing I'd like to point out is that you can't make springs harder by preload, you can only only alter the ride height. Screwing in the clickers restricts the suspension fluid's flow but it can also make it hot easier. The proper thing to do is put heavier springs.
Giorgio Rp I figured TEN was for tension but since I was not sure it made me not want to enhance my settings. I have a 2009 Gsxr 1000 and I cant seem to find any RU-vid footage of anyone doing a suspension adjustment on my model bike so I can learn the proper way to alter the settings.
Regarding the removal of the stock exhaust, the speaker talks about how it "Makes sense" that it needs a remap because you've taken off the stock can with all its "restrictions". The reality is that the stock can, while much heavier, has no restrictions and is a strait flow through pipe (You can even see through it from one end to the other) with holes that let noise into that thick part of the muffler that does make it quieter, but there are no airflow restrictions. I learned this by watching the famous tuner "Brock Davison's" channel. All the restriction is happening before the exhaust gasses hit the end exhaust muffler (Cat, etc..). In fact, when Brock did dyno tests with an aftermarket Yoshi can and the stock exhaust, there was absolutely no gain !
Thanks ..... I never rode mine with a stock muffler, I didn't even get to see the stock muffler. I believe what you say about it. Either way it feels a little lean on the bottom. I look forward to getting the cat out of the pipe and tuning it for that.
Incorrect, aftermarket pipes are louder because they restrict less air. The muffler and all the stuffing they put in there is restricting air from flowing freely (it is slowed down). Some bikes actually lose some power when not tuned for an aftermarket pipe but it does not mean they have the same airflow, fuel ratios just need to be adjusted. Fricken youtubers correcting senior racers...
there are hundreds of holes with sound dampening.. that slow down air (muffle air) thus restricting the clear line of passage that a straight pipe would allow.
Very insightful video. I'm using the Gsxr for something a little different. Straight line speed I wonder if these settings would help me out as well. I'm lowered in the rear and stretched almost 6 inches. I want to get as much power down as I can.
you ride like one of the old school guys, lots of lean angle, but body all upright... ha ha I have studied this way of riding in the old motogp replays from the Doohan Schwantz Rainey era, but just can't wrap my head around it! I gather it's because the bikes were so light maybe???
I think it would be wise if you added the information about your weight - these settings should be changed if the owner of the bike is lighter/heavier than you (I don't mention the individual preference regarding these settings - that's a completely different topic)
Hi Simon, just a quick question as I'm going to be at Suzuki all star day on 4th September this year on my bike. I'm wondering what Dunlop slicks your using and the compound front and rear as I would like to get some. I'm used to Pirelli slicks on my previous race bike sc1 front and sc2 rear but would like to try the dunlops..I'll put your settings in the bike and would like to run the same parameters if it's good enough for you it's more than good enough for me! Also the pressures you recommend.? Thank you
Hi, 3 compound front would be something similar to the sc1 front. I use the 3 sometimes and the 4 front normally but track temps are higher where I ride and I need durability, so I'd recomend the 3. Rear you have 2 choices. The 2 or the 4. They are the 2 best but are quite different. The 2 has the best grip and with high track temps it lasts well also. The 4 has less grip than the 2 but is a good all-round tyre in most conditions and lasts well so it's good for what I do. For straight out performance the 2 rear is my favourite.
I won't be bringing my bikes to the UK I'll be on the Motovudu UK bikes so I'm not sure what will be on them tyre wise. If I had my own bikes I would be running a 3 front and 2 or 4 rear.
Gorgeous bike, it should have come from the factory with that Yoshimura exhaust, it just makes it look much better! On a different note, too bad they did away with the turn signal mirrors, those new ones are hideous and make the bike look cheap.
I do got one question i feel on a long right hand not so much a sweeper but when your bout 3/4 lean that had to continuosly counter steer is that me or the bike.
Good question, I've often have the same feeling and nine times out of ten it's caused by tyre profile. Flatter profile fronts make the bike feel like you described. It's one of the reasons the Dunlop KR106 front slick is my favourite on track , it's got a steeper profile which gives a really light, neutral feel to the bars when cornering. The Pirelli and Bridgestone slicks grip well but give a slightly heavier feel in the corners. Adjustment to your bike balance front and rear (ride height) can go some way to help fix this too.
Hello Simon, the modifications you do to compression and Rebound on the hydraulic part of the suspension will affect on the bike's behaviour in relation to your weight. I am right? It wont do the same for a 140pounds , 5'8 tall guy! Isnt it?
The standard damping is for the street and some comfort. Under hard acceleration and deceleration used on circuit the bike needs more support. Try half the amount I recommended on my updated setup guide (in writing, not in the video). If you like it then try adding the other half and decide what's better for your weight and speed. Hope it helps. Simon
Dont you feel that if tge rear shock is to hard the bike wheelies alot.i do set on my tank as you suggested in dark art but simon on a 1000 it be crazy.
I understand what you're saying James, 1000's are not easy to hold wide open in low gears. It's why I'm so surprised with the new bike, it makes the job much easier. It's almost cheating lol
We have a mutual friend in the shape of Almond Reef. I'll bow to your ex Ohlins suspension knowledge if you can help me crack 1.55" at Almeria on a my K5 600 with my Ktech - :-)
I completely ignored the sag settings because I had no choice when dealing with standard springs which are too soft for hard track riding. The settings I've put here will have less than ideal sag because the preload settings are high. I was chasing support during braking and acceleration which was more important. Now I have stiffer springs the preload is back to normal settings and yes there is a little more sag, but I don't bother measuring it. It's all about what feels right and what works for you. When I was an Ohlins technician at Grand Prix I saw Max Biaggi win with 30 mm preload on the rear with a soft spring. That throws all the sag theories out the window. But yes, I personally don't like no sag, especially in the front. Good luck!
I got a brand new 2024 GSXR-1000R a couple of days ago. I'm at 200 miles and the bike is heating up to 223 degrees within 15 minutes of riding. Anybody running into that issue?
No suzukis heat up high before those fans kick on. They always heated up that much since way back when. When you get the ecu flashed or the bike tuned you can have them turn the fans on earlier so it isnt so hot under you
Sounds exactly right under acceleration if the track is bumpy. Running higher preload settings (from 8 turns standard to 11) means more support under hard braking but also less sag... so more prone to what you experienced. It's a compromise. The only way to get it working well in both areas is harder springs (for support during braking) and return to normal preload settings (6-8). Meantime, try reducing the preload to 10, or 9 and see if the head-shake goes away and you can still get the bike stopped. Good luck
Hey Simon when you come back to NZ. is there any chance you can stop by and sign my Aussie GP poster that hangs in my workshop in natty park. regards Jimbo ;)
Hi Ruben, I have never measured sag. At world championship when I rode or later when I worked as an Ohlins technician I never came across anyone who did.
Rebound and compression are closed to factory settings. I think this setup depends of your oil age (need to close a bit more when oil is old). I thought preload was only about bike levelling, so depends of rider weight. Nice video though
Pretty neat video! Earlier I actually watched Brocked Dyno the same bike with a slip on and was on the leaners side too ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MzhlPRSoMho.html
SET servos? You don't need to take out any servos or cables. Just pull the wire out of the ECU. It's the brown wire with a black stripe and green rings. I tickled it out with a jeweler's screwdriver and capped it (as opposed to cutting the wire) so I can always reconnect if there were a problem. You will not get an F (error) code.
$20,000 motorcycle and a stupid c-ring spanner to adjust the rear spring, lost plenty of skin trying to adjust, also no rear hugger crap all over your rear shock. so I never bought one
11 turns of preload?? What??? 🤣🤣 Damn, stock is 7 and 3/4 , that was already too much stiff for me. With 4 preload in (4 turns right), it is perfect. How can you even think to add 11 preload? You don't even look so heavy.... Honestly I think this is totally a wrong setup. Okay, I weight just 65 kg (without suit), but damn man, 11 of preload is something wrong
It may seem so at first glance. However preload is not just about weight, but as you are get quicker and start putting more braking forces, you need the extra support in braking.
