Great series of videos that helped greatly in deciding to buy and install my Mrcool unit. Regarding the excess line length, the manual actually says to keep it coiled in a flat position. The lower right corner of page 26 of the installation manual states: "Keep excess refrigerant hose coiled. Wrap with protective tape and store behind the condenser in a horizontal position (flat with the ground)."
Wow. You’re comment is pinned. Hilariously this is the only time this is mentioned, and the other times it’s shown or pictured in the manual it appears vertical. Also MRCOOL’s own installation videos show it clearly vertical. But thanks very much for pointing that out.
I was curious about that, as I can understand the vertical not compromising a pressurized system like that... but to actually go out of their way to recommend a vertical orientation was surprising to me. Good catch!
All you need is a $25 flare kit. Cut all that extra ugly line set off.... but yea, dont leave vertical loops. Its justmultiple oil traps when you do that.
I'm in Florida and have the same unit in a single car garage. My only regret is I am not using it as much as I thought but it is amazing. It actually can keep the garage cool with the main door open. It also cools down very quickly. I put the lineset down the wall on the inside so it couldn't be seen on the outside of my house. I have a Snap-on tool box covering most of the lineset which I have in a white cover. I poked out of the wall about 2' above the floor. The landscape bushes hide the horizontal outdoor run to the condensor which I have wall mounted on a hurricane bracket. I have the outside lineset in a brown cover to match the trim and gutters even though you can't see it. I was able to run out the lineset where the condensor lives so no ugly coils. I also ran my 220 from the breaker panel to the disco which was a very long run with no splices. Ran EMT from the attic to the inside garage wall next to the lineset and outside ran gray PVC to the disco. It came out really nice.
I'm happy to see you had a good experience. Between Matt Risinger and Technology Connections, I've come to realize that the vast majority of people don't need gas furnaces anymore if they don't want them. People seem to freak out at the idea that we don't need gas anymore, but I'm quite excited to have the zone controls that mini-splits enable--cold bedroom, warm office, etc.
Technology Connections is great! I’m a laserdisc nerd and I love his videos about that. And I love his video about the classic radiant toaster. I have the same one from the early 1950’s.
Not just for heating. I recently replaced my 40 year old restive electric cooktop with an induction one and it's kinda incredible. I wanted a gas cooktop for years and now you couldn't pay me to put one in. The induction throws off so much less heat into my kitchen is super responsive and easy to clean and can pump just immense amounts of power into a big pot of water. It's also way safer for things like deep frying. No open flame or red hot coils to ignite spilled oil. I would never go back to conventional electric or gas.
Unfortunately when there are many zones 2+ zone controlling ( setting diffrent temperatures) can fail depending on if your heating or cooling some parts, as these units tend to switch from heat and cooling and stop the whole unit. But all in all there great units.
Those HVAC guys responded to you that way because they just saw another sale fly past them. It's going to keep happening more and more. They have to adapt or perish.
Hey Jason, one easy thing you can do to improve the look of the lineset is just paint them the same body color as your garage. It worked for me and it blends in pretty well.
I think the reason many people talked about the pre-charged line sets are that most of the other manufacturers out there have a pre-charged condenser but not the lines - Mr Cool is one of the few that offer the lines to also be pre-charged, which is definitely a good added value for the DIYers!
The other companies, either have the lines shipped with a vacuum, or require the user to pull a vacuum and all the refridgerant in the compressor. Now if the lines are shortened then refridgerant needs to be removed. And added leangths may require adding more refrigerant.
My 2nd Gen 2-ton unit has been fantastic for 6 years now, both cooling & heating. Sure the heating job here in the desert isn't hard (I can count the mornings where the temps dip below freezing on one hand), but the cooling job is tough (110F+ every year). It handles 'em like a champ. In fact, I love it so much, I added a 3rd Gen 1.5-ton unit about 2 years ago to another room. I actually prefer the two separate unit setup over multi-zone, because, if one goes out for any reason, I wouldn't be dead in the water, and I can take my time with repair/replacement.
I would tell that "servicing" company to take a hike. people service other peoples work all the time. If you installed it per code and per spec it's none of their business who installed it. Thanks for the review I'm looking at the 12 for a 400sq ft room... on my way to watch your install vid.
I’ve seen a lot of hvac technicians online with that same “won’t touch it” mentality. It makes me wonder if they’re feeling threatened by these DIY heat pump systems
@@Travisrogers87 is their tech support proven? This is a DIY brand. Its a risk for a technician to go out there not knowing if they will ha e tech support.
@@Travisrogers87 I would say it's to prevent the crazy customers from claiming the technician made it worse, or sabotaged it if it can't be repaired due to DIY install error.
@@hydroaegis6658 This exactly. After a professional has inspected or serviced something, if anything happens it will be the liability of the service technician or the company that serviced it. These things can cause fires in the worst case.
Great Review Jason :) I built a little sloped shed structure to keep snow and ice off my heat pump during the winter months. (I remove it during the summer) I don't know if aesthetically it would work with your garage and MRCOOL but I'm sure you could figure something out that would look nice. Mine is on the back side of my house so out of site out of mind and I'm not super worried about how it looks.
I stated in an other of your video's how I had a home built in Mexico, and chose my mini splits to be 220's rather than 110 as ALL my neigbor's have done. It's been ten year's, in which I have them properly maintained every year. Which to this date has included only the cleaning of them, no additional gas has of yet been needed. All of my neighbor's who have 110, have replaced their 110's at least once, three of them because they were considerably old when I first installed mine. Are on their second replacement.
If the HVAC company I've been giving money to for years tells me that I'd have to find someone else to service it, I would. That company would be the one that services my house going forward. I'd drop those jerks in a heartbeat. They're just hurt that you did an easy DIY job instead of paying them hundreds to do something you could do (and did) very easily.
I was thinking the same thing. I was taking the family cars to one shop, but when I took my '84 Chevy Citation to the shop to have the ignition timing checked because I could not find my old timing light, they refused because "it was too old and the mechanics don't know how to work on a car that old". My reply was something like "Sorry, I didn't mean to lower your property values", and I found a mechanic who didn't have any qualms about working on any car, old or new.
Hundreds?! Yeah right, I just got a quote for my home system on a 1,475 SQ ft 3 bedroom house... Very basic system, nothing fancy, no multispeed or anything. Everyone wanted around $8k. I priced out just the equipment they were gonna use, and it's only $2,400 for the equipment! They are charging about $5,600 for labor!!!! So yeah, I will be installing one of these myself and saving $5,600. For that kind of savings, I could literally just put a new one of these in every 7 years if I had to.
@@magiccheeseball yeah but like I said, for $5,600 in savings, I will gladly replace the entire system every 7 years if that's what it required, which I seriously doubt these will only last 7 years.
My local HVAC companies want to charge me $5,500 to install a ductless mini-split for my small 120 square foot office, or $9,000-$15,000 to install a dual zone ductless mini-split for both my office and my single-car, 250 square foot garage. Freaking ridiculous. No wonder so many people are installing these things themselves.
alot of the time the cost is the cost of pulling primits for installing the mini-split system cirten citys and states require primits to be pulled when Installing a/c units so got to check in to those things for your local area. for my area to install one of these i would cost me about $1500 for just a premint to install one let alone the instpintent for it even tho its some thing that a lot of people can do on there own.
6:54 Actually, they recommend you coil them horizontally! Source: have a 4 head 36k BTU and a 12k BTU single head. Both manuals state horizontally to prevent the oil build up. That being said, my 1 lineset is coiled just like your on the 4 head unit and hasn't had any issues, so holding thumbs. From the manual "Keep excess refrigerant hose coiled. Wrap with protective tape and store behind the condenser in a horizontal position (flat with the ground)"
Yep. I pinned a comment and updated the description to include this. The original instructions I had showed it vertically in a diagram, as did several install videos. My bad.
the oil will continue to gather in the line set and the compressor will not live a full life, the outdoor unit should be off the ground a minimum 6", and more depending on the amount of snow in that area, i like a foot here in Maryland and put the remaining line set under. 4-5 yrs will be the limit of that set up, done right would be 10-14
@@dealecrabr9425 my MrCool diy obviously ignored your instructions to break because it’s on year 6 without a hiccup, and counting. I know all the jealous threatened installers are disappointed to hear this.
@@hcookaustin, recommendations are estimates based on testing and experience. Sure, yours could last 100 years without issue, but there will likely be failers for others. No one is jealous. It's simply tested advice to help the majority enjoy the product for many years without issue.
Jason, I installed a 12K unit five years ago and recently installed a 24K Generation 3. I am pleased with the performance and quality of both units, but have the same problem noted by others on the Mr. Cool blog, the inability to maintain an even room temperature. The set temperature on the evaporator display is typically much higher than the actual room temperature and continual adjustment of the set temperature is necessary. I have used both the handheld remote and their wireless mini-stat with the same result. The Mr. Cool company blog states that the remote units are NOT thermostats, but merely controllers that advise the system of a set point and the system makes decisions based on indoor and outdoor factors. Most disappointing is that I have had no response from my contacts with Mr. Cool and this problem is identical to others on their own blog, and their answer was that their tech department would "reach out" to them. The blog was active in 2020 and I am unaware of a current one. The other worrisome thing is that there does not seem to be a method to register the product for warranty nor is there a procedure to make a warranty claim if needed. DIY is great, but if a problem arises, you are on your own dime.
I had a larger version of the same model in an old house we use for daycare for more then 2 years. It worked way better then the old window units we used to use. But we received a grant to upgrade the old 80% central heat unit so we got a central air as well. The only complaint I had was it only reasonably cooled half of the house in the middle of summer which honestly could have been resolved with a second unit on the other side of the house. Only once did it ever freeze up on the interior coil which resulted in a bit of water running down the wall. Over all I rate the unit very high. It performed better then the window units we used to use and used less power. It was quiet and kept the entire house cool unless the temps reached the high 90’s which would have been remedied with a second unit on the other side of the house. Also since the house in question is around 950 sq ft and 100 years old with old windows and little if any insulation in the walls your mileage may vary. It met the expectations I had for it and would have still been in use today had our daycare program not been awarded a grant to upgrade the hvac to a better, more efficient unit with a filtration system. Would I consider a Mr. cool DIY mini split again? Depending on the situation, yes. I installed the one we had in an afternoon with the caveat that I did pour a concrete pad to put the outside coil on a few days before I actually installed the unit. Ease of installation was straight forward, assuming you read the instructions before hand and accumulate a few tools and items ahead of time such as required hope saw and electrical disconnect. I am a licensed electrician and was able to install my own service disconnect at my desired installation site but you may need an electrician to install the service disconnect. Other then that I see no reason a person couldn’t install one fairly easily by themselves with help to mount the indoor portion as it is quite bulky and heavy to mount by yourself.
A lot of people in my area build a small sloped roof structure over top of the unit to kkepmthe snow from falling on the unit, the lines and the area behind it. This works really well and doesn’t impact the operation of the unit at all. Basically just a 2x4 frame that goes far enough above the unit so as not to interfere with the air flow, but greatly reduces the snow accumulation around and on the unit.
Great video. The production quality is top-notch and you cover everything well while still being succinct. The natural gas heater is very effective at warming up a space, but at one point you said it was more "efficient". I suppose that is a subjective topic, but in terms of both cost and COP (Coefficient of Performance), the mini-split is more efficient at heating a space. This is because it doesn't generate heat, it merely consolidates it out of the atmosphere. This is what makes them almost magical, because their efficiency is actually greater than 100%. In fact, that unit has a COP rating of 3+, which means for every unit of energy (in the form of electricity) used to run it, the mini-split puts 3 units of heat energy into your shop. As effective as the natural gas heater is, the COP is still less than 1, by comparison. Even the very best gas furnaces are only in the 90-95% efficiency range. Your mini-split is likely running at a COP of 2 even when the temperature is at or slightly below freezing outside.
Yeah I've been corrected on that a bunch of times. Meant to say economical instead of efficient. Heck, that might not be true either since natural gas prices have gone up so much. :-)
@@JasonExplainsThings - Yeah, but propane has gone up even more. I'm SO glad our HVAC guy talked us into getting a heat pump added onto our AC coil, when we replaced our system a couple years ago. Between that and the heat pump on our hot water heater, our total cost for utilities is down more than 25%! This really pays off for us whenever we have a fire in our wood-burning insert, since that has a plenum chamber tied into our HVAC's hot air return. Both systems benefit when we have a good fire going.
Hi Jason, great job on the video and I hope all continues to go well for you with the unit. I am a retired HVACR technician and instructor and not a fan of DIY HVAC though. It could get real expensive real quick. I think the line set valves are pretty cool but they have been around for decades. The install instructions that I have read in the MR Cool manual leave a lot to be desired especially with leak testing and torque wrench instructions. With most ductless split manufacturers recommending 500 to 600 PSIG of nitrogen leak test pressure it speaks well about the valves that most of the systems don't go flat within the first 6 months of operation. BY the way an indication of a refrigerant leak would be difficulty in completing a defrost cycle. The saturation pressure of R410A at say 70 degrees F is just over 200 PSIG. That is not enough pressure to test at. There are torque wrench settings listed in the install instructions but no further instruction about them. I have watched a number of installs but have not seen anyone using a torque wrench. Also the units will need a good cleaning after a couple years and maybe sooner depending on conditions. SpeedClean has a system you should look at to do that. I wish you luck you seem to be a good guy but I see a train wreck coming with not only DIY but professionally installed ductless splits that aren't installed properly or not backed up with service and maintenance contracts.
I just looked again at your condenser install and want to mention that if you live in an area that gets snow the unit needs to be at least 18 inches above the ground. That could cause a defrost problem also. The line set should be horizontal to prevent oil trapping.
Great comment! For those of us who are handy but can't stomach the idea of spending $15k+ for a mini split system, what would you recommend? Is it better to buy a standard Mitsubishi/Daikon system and put everything in place myself, then pay a couple hundred bucks to a technical to charge the lines? That seems like a reasonable way to meet halfway. Thanks!
@@RyanRhodes90 the technician you are going to get for 200 bucks would probably not be worth the money. I always recommend having a reputable company do the install service and maintenance. Working with technicians in wholesale for 20 years I have heard of all of the horror stories and finger pointing when a job goes south. Unless you can install, service and maintain your system get a pro.
@@RyanRhodes90 Why would a mini split be $15,000? I installed all 3 of mine ( two 18 k and one 9K ) for $2800 3 years ago and zero issues. If one blows up ill just buy another one and re install it. Its way cheaper in the long run. If you only get 5 or 6 years out of a $1200 unit its still cheaper. Its $200 / year. What's a service call cost plus parts and mark up and wait times? Just my opinion..
@@mattsbrute it’s all about, knowledge. Your not paying for the units themselves, the companies have to get some out of it themselves obviously but very company is different experience and such that’s what goes into the 15k. I’m an HVAC tech myself and these units are picky. Anything goes wrong it’s more than likely user error and if installed by a diy it’s a big void warranty.
I have a 4-zone unit and dont regret buying it. Here in Minnesota have crazy winter and this thing handled it just fine. It's going to be 7 months so far and all I am waiting is for summer to arrive to experience in AC mode.
@@implayingsomebass4753 Wall mounting will cause vibration in your house. Mine were on the wall and I ending up mounting them on a 4x4 stand I made thats about 2ft off the ground. Also built a little roof over them so they dont suck in as much snow and rain. I threw the wall mounts in the dumpster Haha.
I found that for the issue of servicing the unit. It is actually much cheaper to replace the unit then they have an HVAC company come out and ““ service it
Just an idea Jason what if you built a small slope roof that connects to the shop wall and slants over the entire unit? Could use tin as the roof or plastic or shingle it. You could really keep snow and or rain off it that way plus the sun. Just an idea man! Love your content!
Good idea. Maybe instead of shingles, louvered sheet so it'd let the heat out in the summer. Or make it on a removable bracket to remove in the summer.
I did this exact thing for all 3 of my units. In the winter they just suck snow in and if it raining when it's just above freezing they suck in the water and it freezes in the unit. A roof is everything.
Great video Jason, I like this kind of series. I think Mr.Cool is making the HVAC market more price transparent and more affordable to homeowners. Therefore, the HVAC contractor's huge profit will be affected in the long run. That's the reason they all say NO to this kind of DIY products. Charging people thousands of $$$ to do the work, which can be done by homeowners themselves.
I'm pretty late but for a cover, you could build it OVER the sides and top of the whole unit so it blocks snow behind it, like a tiny carport or something I guess, and if you added more cement on the outside you could put in post ankers and using bolts you could just unbolt and remove the cover whenever needed
The Defrosting thing is common with these HVAC systems, the system is built to do the Defrost stuff automatically, just don't shut off live power going to it while it does all that.
I also have the 18000 BTU McCool unit. BUT I have had problems. The biggest frustration is that the McCool people do not answer phone calls and/or return messages. The first time my condenser failed someone from the Amazon customer service department contacted them for me after my multiple attempts. Now it has failed again and I have not been able to get assistance. THE WARRANTY IS WORTHLESS IF YOU DON'T HAVE A WAY TO CONTACT THE COMPANY
So about that warranty, I installed a 36K unit a couple months ago. I went to fire it up this last weekend and kept getting a “P6” error code. It cycled about three times and finally started working. After going through this a couple nights in a row, it’s seems to be working fine now. That being said, I did call Mr. Cool and left a message with my info. I also emailed them as well. It’s been over two days and nothing but crickets. This has me a little worried that if the P6, or any other issues pop up again, I won’t have be able to get ahold of anybody for warranty issues.
@@JasonExplainsThings Well I guess I spoke too soon, I had a Tech from Mr Cool call me this morning. Told him the issue I was having and he went over a bunch of possible remedies. He was very helpful and hopefully the issue was a fluke. Just wanted to clarify that Mr Cool DID call me back and were great in helping me.
Jason, I wont to correct something you said, the heat pump can actaully be more efficient than the furnace if it is able to handle low temperatures (-5ish). The COP (Coefficient of Performance) on a heat pump can be 2.5 to 4.5 was as a a furnace is only 0.8 to 0.96
@@JasonExplainsThings The cost savings is on the service fees -$500 a year in my area, plus you are using electric with your gas furnace. There are other issues such as zoning and the future of fossil fuels.
This video just popped up in my recommended today, and regarding that cover - did anyone ever suggest using a spare tire cover? Might be just about the right size, and should be even lower profile than what you were originally planning on building.
Thanks for the comment on leaving the excess line in the attic. Mine is going to mount on an interior gable wall with attic space behind it. The air unit line section will go through the gable wall, then bend left where the precharged line is coming in from the exterior eave. I can just leave enough line outside to reach the heat pump unit. The excess line will remain coiled in the attic. Having 25’ gives piece of mind you have enough to finish the job. I’m cooling a large living room with vaulted ceiling. The living room is open to the kitchen and an alcove, so I’m going with the 34K unit. I prewired a 220 30 amp circuit into the attic. That breaker is just around the corner so can I connect directly to the unit without a quick kill box? Thanks. Both videos on installation and a 15 month review very helpful.
From my research apparently the quick kill box is required to meet my state's code. I was also very close to my breaker but still did it. Food for thought, and I'm really glad the videos helped!
Hey Jason build a small roof over hanging (like a porch) the unit and paint. This way it keeps snow off and piling up behind the unit. Then paint you hose line cover the color of house.
Just wanted to say I love the video. Everyone please stop saying how much more "efficient" gas heating is. It might be cheaper, but max it's like 95% efficient. A heat pump mini split is 100% minimum efficient, but can go upwards of 400% depending on the model and outside temp.
I have the exact same unit. I wasn't aware of the lines were charged until I cut them to shorten them. I was worried about it affecting the systems operation but it hasn't so far.
I wonder if the lines are truly ‘pre charged’ or if they simply have a vacuum pulled on them from the factory. It doesn’t make sense that Mr Cool is the only manufacturer that doesn’t charge the outside unit with coolant.
@@barefootaquatics He clarified in the video that they do charge the outside unit with refrigerant, they just also precharge the lines. Whether charged or vacuumed, cutting the lines will lose that and bring in atmosphere, which can interfere with the operation of the machine (moisture, other gases, etc.). Hopefully the small amount in a shortened line isn't too bad, but I imagine the full tubing length would be enough to cause issues. Even just pulling a vacuum on the lines prior to reinstalling them would avoid much of the issue, leaving you just a bit low on refrigerant.
Uhhh, yeah.... those papers and the booklet that comes with it.... a little thing called an “instruction/installation manual”.... uhhh, yeah - you’re supposed to kind of look that over a little before doing something bone headed like that...🤦♂️
Hi Jason, You said in the video your 18000 btu unit was 120v... amazon link you shared says they are 230v. I am wanting to put one in my garage as well.
I have two mini splits 2400btu each. They are great at both heating and cooling here in Florida. WHAT YOU DIDN'T MENTION OR SHOW was the actual cleaning of the machine, which is a bear regardless of the brand. It makes a mess, and if it is inside your house you have to deal with dirty water that wants to run down your interior walls. The indoor unit must be disassembled, the blower wheel taken out and the coils washed. It is not a pleasant job. Ignore it and you will get globs of mold growing in the dust..and use your imagination. They are great machines, but blowing the filter off with compressed air is a little misleading.
The one I installed only ever leaked inside once due to the interior coil freezing. Up until we stopped using it it never had any mold growth in either the condensation tray nor condensation line that went thru the wall and down with the line sets. I think mounting the indoor portion level in both side to side and front the back and the tube not kinking going thru the wall are key to keeping condensation from backing up. Also Florida has a much higher constant humidity then south central Kansas where I live which could also contribute to excessive condensation and slime buildup in the condensation trap. While not simple or easy one trick we used to use here on the condensate traps on HVAC coils was to drop algicide tablets into the pans that collect condensation every year while cleaning the A-coils. We never had any issue with plugged up condensate lines after we started doing that. Maybe that could help in this case.
I feel so fortunate to live in this climate and not a humid one. My coils are like new with only a small amount of dust on the screens removed every six months on 5 year old 24k unit.
HVAC tech here. There are a lot of off brand mini splits that sell direct to consumer for a cheaper price than a Fujitsu or Mitsubishi. Mr Cool is one of them. Most of the time they work well. The issue with us servicing them is that in the event of a parts failure there is often nothing we can do to easily get replacement parts. We have distributors for the big brands that we can walk into and get parts at. Think autozone but for HVAC parts. There is no such place to get parts for a Mr Cool unit. If the system is leaking refrigerant or is not running properly due to something environmental I can address then I will gladly fix whatever is going wrong but I will not replace parts on these systems. And like Jason said many companies have a policy that they will not touch these systems at all
@@jadedandbitter *IF* you can find a parts catalog you'll be importing all the components from China. Mr Cool units are typically considered disposable, unless you want to wait 3-4 months for a service.
I wonder if you could build a little cantilever roof over it to keep the vast majority of snow and ice away thus preventing the whole freeze up things w/o needing to shovel it out.
Just a suggestion air spraying the filters to clean them is not the best choice actually washing them under the sink with water is better. My analogy would be washing your clothes by just shaking them out and putting them back in the closet rather than actually putting them in water with detergent and washing them.
Good video I got quoted 12-13 k for installation of A Mitsubishi mini split system. Ouch… the unit only costs 2.5k I would add a awning above the unit. That white wrap around the coolant lines did you get that with the unit?
Great Video, but just a short correction. It might be cheaper to run the natural gas heater in your garage, but it's not more efficient. Mr Cool gen 3 has a HSPF rating of 10, which is pretty good for a heat pump in heating mode. That is about 290% efficiency for every Watt of electric energy used to run the heat pump in heating mode. Most natural gas furnaces run at about 93% efficiency. You would actually be better suited letting your local utility company burn that same natural gas to make electricity (They get about 80% efficiency when making electricity with it) and then use that electricity to run your heat pump.
Yeah, I misspoke. Should of said economical vs efficient. We're lucky here though because we get our electricity from hydroelectric dams. So it doesn't get much more green than that. :-)
I installed a 12 K unit two years ago and loved it,.. It worked flawless until today, I got a P4 trouble code on the unit, called customer service it was horrible and I’ve been reading a lot of negative things,… so now it feels like I’m stuck. gonna have to call an HVAC contractor probably to recharge it or troubleshoot it and spend more than what I actually spent on it☹️
In response to the company who services your house, I would have replied, “when I do find a company that doesn’t have a problem servicing my diy mini split, I’ll have them do the rest of the house as well, thanks though”…
Our master bedroom does not get the AC or heat, we even replaced the ducting. So this would be perfect, I live in a hot state, the room is at least 2 degrees warmer than the house. The room is about 11' x 13'
Nice follow up vid, thnx for posting! Question I have is what is the power draw at each of the many settings, or over a month of use at whatever settings you leave it at? For ex: Watt hours being used at eco mode regular mode, SUPER COOL mode? That kind of thing. Thanks again for posting! Subscibed!!
I put one in about 4 years ago and it really only ran reliably for about 2 years. WiFi never worked reliably, and then last summer it developed real bad leaks in the indoor unit. I'm going to replace it, and are debating whether or not I get another one or switch manufacturers.
Jason. Your video Mr Cool video review was great and convinced me to buy two systems ... 18k and a 24k (both single head) GEN 4. An installation question re the thru the wall hole size. The sleeve with the system is approx 2.5". The instructions call for 3.5" hole. All the hoses and electric fit through the sleeve. Any thoughts why they call for a 3.5 hole? What did you do? (I got the new GEN 4 so not sure if this makes a difference.) Thanks. MrCool should keep you around.
I just followed the instructions so I'm not sure why the hole is the size it is. FYI... I am 100% not sponsored or paid by Mr Cool. I purchased the mini split with my own money at full price. I do get a small commission if people use the amazon links in the description. Thanks for watching!
@@psilocybemusashi Uh yes they are. I literally just watched another video about mini splits and the guy did the calculations and per 1 million btu's the heat pump was cheaper then propane and this was back when propane was 1.90 a gallon. The savings would be even more now. There is no reason to use any sort of gas heat if the temp is above 20 degrees F.
You must have gotten confused on the excess lineset - coils need to be horizontal, not vertical, for the exact reason of refrigerant oil collection. The vertical coils trap oil. I have two of these units in my house, year five now, working great. No vertical coils. Expect your compressor to fail in an indeterminate amount of time due oil starvation.
@@JasonExplainsThings - One of mine passed thru an attac crawl space so one lazy loop before dropping down to the outside condenser unit - condensate line does not need to follow the lineset, just has to drain. The other was really close to the inside unit so I built a shelf for horizontal coils and made it a weather-roof to protect the unit. Both worked out swimmingly. You might get by with the vertical coils, lots got installed that way. But the first thing a pro installer will do is look at those coils and shake their head. I specifically called Mr.Cool the importer in Miami to inquire about this and they did say directly that excess line should not be coiled up behind the unit. Their recommendation was to move the unit. In my case that wasn't an option. Another option is to snake them down the wall, inside or outside, before connecting to the condenser. The newest units also have the quick-connectors with the schrader vales in them on both ends, so the lineset isn't permanently attached to the indoor air handler. The older ones that were, on the larger units - two-ton and up, are a beast to lift up on the wall and get the line fed thru your hole in the wall.
If MrCool has a warranty who does the warranty work if local people will not do? Interesting you say the manual says to coil extra line vertical when so many home "experts" say that is wrong. Would be nice if they provided an option to specify the line length you needed in a DIY purchase.
I’m curious to know how long they last compared to other more well named brand like Mitsubishi and lg. being as cheap as they are to purchase they must have skimmed on some parts. Would be interesting to see if they last longer than 10 years. Ik I should condescending but but I know Mitsubishi will last 15-20 that’s just the brands I work with and use. I feel like it’s comparing a Goodman to a carrier there’s just no comparison to the quality of the parts
FYI I’m no expert but from what I’ve read using a heat pump is far more efficient than any other type of heating. When converted to watts from an electric heater you get like over 100% efficiency 🙂
Yes, an electric heat pump is more energy efficient than resistive electric heating. A heat pump can move about 2-4x as much heat energy as the electrical energy it consumes (depending on conditions), compared to a resistive heater giving 100% heat energy for the electrical energy it consumes. The comparison Jason was making is with natural gas. In areas where it's common, natural gas is much cheaper than electricity for the same amount of energy. In my area, natural gas costs about 1/8 of electricity for the same amount of energy. So in that sense, it's still cheaper to use natural gas for heating even than using an electric heat pump. That said, when it comes to reducing emissions and carbon footprint, using electrical devices gives us many more options for the primary source of that energy, such as wind, solar, hydro, and others; whereas burning any kind of fossil fuel (gasoline, propane, natural gas) doesn't leave us with any options to convert to something cleaner and more sustainable in the future. So although natural gas heating is currently cheaper to operate, an electric heat pump is likely the more sustainable option for the future.
I would like to see something like this get compared to a wood stove for applications such as small to mid sized barn so the that the water hydrant doesn't freeze while keeping the temperature inside decent.
you should put that excess line set on a horizontal plane than a vertical one.. I see it all the time.. that way you have it, it can trap oil which is not good for the compressor....
Good video, would have liked to hear about power use. Another RU-vid video says the 12k 120volt version may be best if you want to run it off solar power.
I'm going to go ahead and say running AC off solar is not a viable option unless you have a big battery bank. You want to buy the right size unit depending on the size of the space you're cooling/heating so it's not under-powered (or needlessly overpowered I suppose). But yes, larger units use more power.
@@JasonExplainsThings A recent video from the 8 bit guy has them running an efficient window unit off a small solar system. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RhTDneoDUdc.html Around the 7:30 mark if you don't want to watch the whole video. So that's what I was kinda thinking, just a little bigger.
Hey great video update, i had a quick question and wondered if it was possible to install or mount on of these units on top of a roof? i have a flat style roof and would not want to deal with mixing concrete for a slab or the eyesore it would be in my front lawn.
I don't have a husky tool box... the small one with all the stickers on it is from Harbor Freight... not terrible actually. The big one in the corner (under the heater) is from Costco. It's awesome.
Having a hard time reaching the water drain plate. Having a scent coming from AC Everytime I turn it on. Any idea on how I can reach the plate to see if water is just sitting there
Would you happen to know if these are produced in the U.S.? I see their head quartered in Hickory, KY. Just thinking supply chain issues in the future.
Cool. Awesome vid. And my request worked. And you also did like any RU-vidr would do, give a one year update of their own diy mrcool system. And about the defrosting, same thing with these HVAC systems with a big condenser and an air handler with air ducts, The same thing as well.
I have two 12btu heat pumps in my house they work great and DIY for someone that as no experience with HAVC they work awesome for three years now winter and summer mr cool is great
Put 2 mr cool DIY units in my house this year 18,000 sq. ft. One has 18,000 btu the other has 36,000 btu. Power bill for July was less than $120.00. Wayne Little
Great vid. For some reason, the people I talk to have no idea what a heat pump is. Its so weird since everyone has used a fridge or AC unit. Anyway, since you had the issue with the pump freezing over, any thoughts on sending the coolant underground? Geothermal is probably overkill. BUT it is pretty cool and would be a sweet thing to see DIYed. :D
You said the natural gas heater is more efficient which in cost might be true, but in terms of actual energy consumed a heat pump is almost always more efficient since it is just transferring the heat from outside to in instead of actually generating heat.
Looking into heat pumps for the house I'm building, your temperature sounds about the same as mine, roughly 0-100 degrees Fahrenheit (mid Michigan), how well did it heat in the winter? I know they have back up heating coils for the cold, how much did that raise your electricity bill during the coldest months? Thanks
Can’t say exactly. I have a natural gas heater in the shop that I use for most of the heating, but I use the heat pump for heating as well when I don’t want the extra noise. It is totally capable of heating the space by itself though.
@@JasonExplainsThings fyi a heat pump is much cheaper than gas! The only issue of the heat pump is how low the outdoor ambient temp can be before it can’t keep up with load. But if your heat pump can maintain the temp over winter you will save dollars running it over your gas heater!
@@AppletonsQoQ Are you sure it's cheaper? Where I live, natural gas costs 1/8 that of electricity for the same amount of energy. Even with a COP of 4, that's still leaves the natural gas at half the cost of the electricity for the same amount of heating.
If you're installing it on a second story you likely would have the exact amount of line and not need to coil it. I'd just recommend checking the instruction PDF and measuring to confirm.
Thinking of getting this installed. Does it matter how many amps my home's breaker box is if the HVAC guys are going to install a separate breaker next to mini split like i see next to yours?
How about monthly usage one your electricity bill. I understand that the rates are different in your area than other areas. But a little information would be great. Great video and keep up with the great information. Oh by the way great looking bug you got
For heating these pumps are great. The heating output can be 3 times higher than electricity intake. I have 2 pumps at home and both use around 1.2KW electricity and output 3.5KW as heatingpower. Went from 350€/month electricity bill to 180€/month in the winter.
We used central heating before and it was a 6KW system. Wood/electricity. We still need to burn some wood in the coldest weeks when we have to turn off the pumps so they don't break. But i would say we save around 40% on heating costs compared to before.
I think the reason they say it doesn’t need a vacuum or to trim the lineset is because well then it wouldn’t be diy friendly. I’ve been doing HVAC for years and there’s no way I would turn they system on without pulling a vacuum 1st And for the line set all you need to do is a pump down remove the line set use a flaring kit to shorten the line set.
Ah yes… the almost globally standard statement of “we won’t maintain it cause we didn’t install it” (and missed on the ‘official dealer’ markup and ’1000 USD per install). Exceptions: countries like India or Russia, where you can find AC tech actually understanding thermodynamics and being OK to consider you (the owner) a competent equal… and a paying customer. 🙄 Some cases went to court in the EU over this, and the DIY-er won! Right to repair, right to maintain, right to DIY! 💪🏻
You mentioned it froze but that sounded like it was because you had a freeze thaw cycle. How well does it heat when the temp gets really low? what part of the country are you in? I’d like to do something like this instead of this plus a heater or a heater and an AC. thanks
