To see the video on repairing it click here: • Aluminum Welding with ... Standard 1 speed transmission used on 1980-current MTD products riding mowers 618-0073 618-0163b
This is great thanks! I was curious about what was inside this thing. I ended up just drilling a tiny 1/8th hole in the top of mine off to the side of the gear and used grease gun with a needle tip to pump grease into it with it turning on jack stands - quieted it right up! Tossed a little JB quick over the pin hole and she's good to keep on mowing!
To start with the simplest; I've heard improper(automotive grooved rubber belts) or old belts make whining sounds when they are put under load. So it could be just a belt but that is the simplest. The other issue would be not enough oil/grease in the transaxle like you thought. The gears are isolated from the case pretty good so it would take a fair amount of heat for it to noticeably transfer. The grease gets thrown off the gears and gets stuck the case sides and no longer lubricates the gears.
It could be a couple things: The shafts the your shift lever moves is gummed up(spray with lube and move in and out), The engine is not fully disengaging from the drive pulleys and is apply pressure to the internals (lube the shift o matic pulleys and linkages), The detent ball is gummed up, and finally the grease in your case is really bad.
I really like Murray and think they had a superior product to MTD the last decade they were in business 1990-2000. They made a lot of riding mowers under the Craftsman name. Murray closed in the early 2000's and Briggs and Stratton bought them out. They didn't make anything for years but in the last couple years Briggs and Stratton has been having MTD relabel mowers for them under the Murray name.
No forward but reverse would generally mean either the shifter isn't pushing the lever far enough to engage forward or the teeth on the forward gear (watch at 1:51) selector are stripped. The teeth/dogs could be rounded and be pushing the selector away. Try swapping the reverse gear to the forward gear and flipping the selector. This will use the other side of the teeth.
Backing trailers without a front torque bolt snapped it (one was never installed from the factory). Trailer tire hit a rock and stopped but the mower wanted to keep going.
An impact gun works the easiest. If one is not available you can wedge a large item between the belt and the pulley. This will lock it while you turn it. You can also drill a small hole through the pulley so you can put a screwdriver through it to lock it.
Hey Moe I could use some direction.I just bought a Craftsman Model 917.272263. It is the one with the foot pedals to control forward and reverse .I was told it needed a valve job but when I went to pick it up one rear wheel would not turn. I thought maybe the brake was frozen so I took it apart cleaned it & reassembled it . I was able to move it backwards easy but difficult pushing it forward. The next day it was jammed again. I played around with the brake & it loosened up a little but it is still locked. The bypass rod pulls that out so you can disengage the transmission to freewheel is very loose. I checked it does move the connection on the transmission. Is there any adjustment that can be made that I am missing or am I going to have to pull this tranny apart? I would really appreciate your help. JoeZ
Good video, my Murray 10 year old 12.5 HP uses a belt and I think that is how the speed is changed, not sure though. Maybe Murray is different than an MTD?
Your video is on the 1st page on the google search that I typed in. Now after watching this video, I can see now that these 6 speeds are in a ''Pulley'' based drive system, so that's how 1 trans axle works with all of them. My stepson bought a 6-speed, well, you might as well call it a MTD since it has ''MTD'' just below ''Troy-Built'' under the seat on the tag with the Model & S/N. At any rate, the forward side of the gear was worn out, so no forward period. That is the only part that he needs but my question is, what type of oil or gear lube is supposed to go inside the trans case? The stuff in there now is a mixture of a blueish colored grease & gear lube. I know from running heavy equipment all my life that there should be a seal at either end of the unit to keep the lube inside the case & not all over the garage floor. That was my guess to why there is a mixture of Grease with Gear Lube, just no Automotive ''Rear Axle'' smell to it.
These generally take 00 EP(extreme pressure) grease. However I've never had an issue with greasing all the gears liberally and then pouring 80-90w gear oil over the top to help distribute everything. 00 EP grease is pretty close to what you would get when you mix grease/gear oil.
I have to get a new gear selector. the one in my mower has the 3 contact points rounded off in the reverse position. it was for the forward motion but I flipped it around so I could use the mower.
These are extremely common and were used from the 80's to the 2000's. Parts schematics are available so you can get part numbers and find the exact part you need.
hello, thanks for the video, I am writing to you from Italy, I have a problem with my lawn mower, with the forward gear if I am going downhill it picks up speed and you can hear a noise at the transmission (continuous beat), which it doesn't do if I go downhill in reverse. What can it depend on? Thanks Marc
this is the first veido I pull up to help try to ficks my problem.dam you make it so simple as 1,2,3. l got an old bolens ,mabe 92 won't stop !! 😇 I pull the breaks off, pull them apart cleaned the pins 2 new pads. clean the disc but didn't no if the break should be in park befor starting.so put the brake back . same problem.so what I did was drive on a slight up grade, pushing down on the break.shift into revers , still on break.mower move backwards . now i ajusted the brakes,to the point in nutral mower was hard to push. drove to down grade,stop foot on the brakes count 1,2 down mower move down the grade.now also. shifting gears real ragcadie . I think I did the brakes right.could it be something in the transmission. PS.(help ! 😇)
i have a mtd 1990 model 46 inch cut hydrostatic it does great but after about an hour the rear end starts pushing fluid out of the hose on top of the rear end and it wont got forward or backwards when it cools down it works fine again any ideas on whats wrong?
My transaxle takes an excessive amount of force to shift between out of fwd and reverse, so much force that I had to take the slotted cover plate off the mower to be able to shift because it bows the shifter linkage rod before it finally comes out.... Im thinking my splines on the shaft may be gaulded or stripped? suggestions. I did replace the brake puck prior to this happening.
+ClassicTVMan1981X Yes and no. Basically the 133360E had a right angle gear box that just changed a vertical rotation to a horizontal. This is done in the trans in the video with the axle as part of the system. The 133360E has a chain running from the trans to the live axle so the axle is separate. The Input shaft and the way they both select gears is the same and probably have the same part numbers.
What would the single speed gear ratio be compared to the six speed I have in my tractor now? I see it works on the same principle as an outboard motor gearcase.
The forward/reverse gears.. u think they’re cast or cheap pot metal? Mine are stripping bad and need replacement.. know if anyone makes machined gears made from billet or another strong metal and with tighter tolerances? My Husky is a 25hp 50 or 54 inch deck supreme yard tractor
Im in the process of changing needle bearings. During re assembly does the small ball that go in the middle position , do I need to adjust it somehow so that so that forward neutral and reverse positions are correct ? thx
I have the same exact trans. Could you point me out with what’s wrong. It engages forward but doesn’t for reverse, sounds like it’s trying and or is metal grinding. The parking break isn’t working too. It’s a craftsman t1400. Thank you in advance
Really informative video!I just blew out my transmission on my tractor- cracked it right in half! Do you recommend replacing it with the same model or can I replace it with a beefier one?Thanks for the tips!
You saw the video where I repair this right? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3pMESMI7yp0.html . There really isn't anything better. Generally these fail/break due to a missing bolt that is supposed to attach the front center of the transmission to the frame.
If you were going to do a rebuild on this, what cleaner would you use to get all that old bentonite grease off, and what grease would you use to replace it?
Thanks for the tip! My problem is the tractor will not move either direction, after jacking it up one wheel rolls one direction, and the other rolls the opposite. Seems like it is locked in gear, brake stock or transmission is locked. I have checked the brake several times, has a wheels release on the rear, I have pulled it in and out several times. ( It's Like a Troy Bilt pony, it's a Huskee from tractor supply) any Idea's. Thanks in advance for your input.
George Edwards One wheel spinning forward and the other in reverse is normal. It not shifting into reverse or forward could be as simple as a linkage problem. If not you'll need to open it up and see.
Hey bud. I got the same bolens lawn tractor. Mine is shifting and working fine. But I have grease leaking out through the smaller shaft of the tranny. Not the brake/puck side of the shaft but the other side. In all the breakdown videos I see there doesn't appear to be any kind of grease seal there. Any idea what could be causing this and how I remedy it? Thanks bro. Great video.
In this video, you show what happens when you engage the forward gear and the reverse. On mine which is still mounted to my tractor, the rod does not go forward or should I say the gear rod does not go all the way in but it will go into reverse. Would you say that I have to take apart the transmission and see whats the problem?
Thanks for subbing. These need to be removed and split in half to regrease. They use a special "00 grease" but gear oil and some bearing grease slathered around does a great job.
I have a1980 Roper lawn tractor with a 5 speed and a reverse the shifter leaver sheared the bolt off and now it’s stuck in gear it was very stiff shifting before this. Can you offer me any advice how I can go about fixing it and replacing the shifter bolt and find out why it was hard to shift into gear any help would be very much appreciated.
Incidentally, I've just changed the front gear and clutch disc and I'm hearing a lot of whining when in forwards, although no banging. I've greased the shaft and the gears pretty well so I don't know what it could be - perhaps the bearings aren't seated properly, which might be your issue also. Would be interested to hear the OP's opinion.
What makes speed change? My mtd moves at half shift but slows almost to a stop at full forward. I cant understand what the linkage does as it doesn't appear to be attached to the hydro unit itself.
If you have a hydrostatic transmission, everything is controlled internally with a swash plate via the linkage. This particular transmission is a single speed with a cvt transmission in front of it via two belts and adjusting pulleys.
Just took mine apart and cleaned finally. When you pick up the main axle and differential, is it like a solid rod? When I pick mine up it kind of wobbles in the diff, like it's a joint. I tried to take apart the diff to look inside to see if there is some damage but I couldn't figure out how to get it apart.
@@sixtyfiveford Of course, I'm just trying to gauge how much wobble is normal, seems like it would sag some but maybe not when it's in the lower casing.
I have a MTD Ranch King 12.5hp 42 inch deck and it goes fine in reverse, but when I shift it to forward, it makes a horrible grinding/clunking noise when it moves. I know a guy that has a rear end off a Ranch King that he will sell me for $25 so would that be my best bet or do you think it's a cheap n simple fix without buying and replacing the transaxle?
thedean1488 Sounds like something is chewed up. $25 is cheaper than the parts you'll probably need to buy. Either way you need to pull your trans. I would pull yours and take a look inside and then make your decision
In high gear/speed or under higher than normal load the gears whine a fair amount. Instead of removing and disassembling the transmission to re-grease would there be any marked benefit in adding a Zerk fitting or two to add grease occasionally? (The housing is soft metal so I'm not particularly concerned with some filing bits getting inside during the drilling process.)
hey, great video, i have an MTD 17 h, with hydrostatic im guessing, it goes when i push the gas pedal , stops when i let off, or slows per rpm,, it is just jerking and jumping when using, bad enough to get whiplash, i dont think it needs rebuilt, just some adjustment but i cant find any adjustments except brake, any ideas ?
Is the engine jerking or the transmission? The engine should stay at a steady rpm whether you are moving or not. If the transmission is jerking it could be as simple as low fluid.
thanks for the reply, the engine hums like a humming bird and it does feel and sound like trans issue but i cant find a drain or a refill port, , jerking forward , i have it at the stage where blade deck is removed to view better, belts are in terrible shape, oil leaks from top all over pulleys ,top of deck, so a good cleaning and belts will be done if i can solve the jerking and lurching which finally ended with not moving forward for seconds without a rough jerking lurch ,
I have the same transmission you are referring to. In the forward position the mower doesn't want to engage, but once it does it makes a horrible grinding sound. Going up hills it makes the worst and loudest sound struggling to advance up the hill. lower the gear louder it seems. in reverse its normal no problems. in your opinion what could it be? Is it the actual shifting lever? The lever goes in F- N- R positions fine. If its the lever how do I adjust it? Thanks in advance.
It seems to be quite a common issue - you'll probably need to order a new gear, and possibly clutch disc. Engagement can be a bit poor due to the design of the gear lever, and the less-than-full engagement means the teeth will be stripped pretty easily (that's the grinding sound), eventually resulting in it completely failing to drive anymore. If you can find a way to raise the rear of the mower off the ground (I use some blocks of wood against the bodywork between the rear axle and the mower deck) you can drop the transmission off fairly easily. Open it up carefully (being especially careful not to lose the ball bearing and spring that drop out) and check the gears. They should be completely square, with no rounding.
The fork on mine was worn down from previous owner probably riding clutch collar instead of releasing clutch fast into gear. So almost the whole thickness of the fork was worn off where it engages the clutch collar (solid throw out bearing). So it would not engage forward gear. Got a new fork and reversed position of forward and reverse bevel gears and clutch collar as the gears are the same. It worked fine for couple years. Began jumping out of gear and finally not going forward. So took apart axle and the fork was not worn as I had removed all old grease and replaced with new grease first take down and added a little STP oil treatment for added lube. I suspect the clutch collar is a bit worn and possible the forward 42 tooth bevel gear. So I am going to order a new gear and clutch collar. You can turn the two bevel gears around with one another so the reverse is then where the forward gear was and also turn around the clutch collar and get a newer surface as the reverse is used much less and probably much better shape. I just ordered new bevel gear ($25) and clutch collar ($14). In the meantime I put axle back on tractor and took off the shift rod as there is practically no adjustment on this 2005 MTD Yard machine. I measured the length of the rod and cut it in two. I got I guess you would call it a collar nut that is about an inch or so long and two bolts that have allen wrench indentations in the heads so when I cut the shift rod to length I can shave it down with a grinder a little bit until it can be inserted tightly into the allen holes that are centered in bolt heads. Both my bolts were about 1 1/2". I cut the threads down on one to where about 6 threads were showing, I threaded that bolt into the collar nut just enough to hold it. Then I welded that cut bolt to the nut at the threads and to the shift rod where it entered the allen hole. The other 1 1/2" bolt I put a backup nut on it and threaded it all the way down into the collar nut till it hit the end of the other welded nut. I had measured the original length of the shift rod at 7 1/2". So I subtracted the length of the nut and bolts from the 7 1/2" and cut the shift rod down so it would be about a sixteenth shorter than 7 1/2" when the other end of the shift rod was inserted into the other allen hole as I can adjust it out quiet a bit. I inserted that end and welded it. Then I had an adjustable shift rod. Take out shifter clip on trans and screw out rod to estimated length needed to fully engage forward gear. Then put clip through shift rod and try it out for proper length to shift. I adjusted it out until it fully engaged forward gear and tested it. I tightened up the back up nut although it can not spin out much even without the backup nut as both ends are in a fixed position. Anyway I can now drive this tractor in forward to cut grass until my parts come in at which time I can replace them and readjust the shift rod. Now I had to adjust rod quiet a bit to catch forward so now reverse is catching sometimes as it is just barely enough to catch with forward adjusted so much in. If I were going to keep this rigging without buying new parts I would jack it back up with my chain hoist and try adjusting the forward back a bit so reverse hits true as well. might can cut out the reverse shift slot a little so it shifts a little further out. Hey what some of you guys are hearing is the shift rod is not fully engaging the gears due to worn fork or clutch/gears. The banging is the bevel gears slipping off the top shaft pinion gear and disengaging because the shift rod is not at the proper length to keep it engaged. Some such as the Troy built I believe have shift adjustment that is threaded. So you can adjust it out without rigging. Or if needed you can try my remedy. Don't take much if you have an arch welder.
I can buy a MTD mower for 60$ with this kind of drive train(the vario in the middle and 1 speed axle). It has a 12.5hp engine on it(i have a 14.5 and a 16hp b&s) and i was thinking of converting it to a racing mower. Is the axle and middle vario thing strong enough for that? Or do i need to switch it out for something different?
when I release the clutch peddle I'm getting nothing like I used to then it grabs and makes a clunking sound goes a few feet and no longer grabs... don't really have anywhere to tear her down here but if you know what part probably went that would be very helpful. it's a mtd 7speed shift on the go . I'm not certain it's the transaxle at this point ....what do you think?.....thanks
got it back on and still got major clunking when in gear,, turned out to be the upper belt smaller of the 2 has a inner chunk missing, you happen to know the belt size off hand?
My MTD locked up on me the other day. I had to take the rear drive belt off so I could push it. The pulley on top of the transaxle turns while I push it in neutral. Is it supposed to do that? When it's in gear you can't push it even with the belt off. I can turn all the pulleys with my hand. Could the problem be in the transaxle? It has the variable speed pulley.
@@sixtyfiveford I can turn the variable speed pulley by hand with it in neutral and the belt on. But when I try to push it the transaxle pulley turns and it drags the rear wheels.
i have a question, my huskee 4200 stop moving. when i push clutch pedal in to change from forward or reverse and let all the way out on clutch pedal, it doesnt move..it feels like something is not releasing like a belt, or a pulley is froze up..havent taken transmission out to inspect but maybe something simpler is going on with mower...even when mower is returned to neutral, you have to rock mower back n forth to get it roll freely...takes a few rocking back n forths to get it to release, but even doing this it still will not move when put in gear or reverse when running....it locked up once in the summer for a minute, but went back to moving...maybe it needs grease inside trans case or something's froze up like brake disc....in saying that, i did spray a lil wd40 on disc brake lever and that help release brake mechanism, but clutch pedal out and in gear, still not moving, is bugging me...any advice would help?!?!?!.......thnx
It is very common for the linkage to freeze up. Also if it a variable drive with two separate levers, one FWD-N-REV and the other all the speeds, it's common for the variable pulley system(center of the tractor between engine and trans) to freeze up and not allow the belts to engage.
i looked at my motor belt, it has jumped around the variable speed pully and got under the trans belt somehow...i guess a stick or acorn or something got in pulley groove and made it jumped off lower groove of variable pulley and jumped to upper pulley groove....weekend tinker job i guess...hope this all is wrong with it..lol
What is wrong with my yard machine when it stays in reverse no matter what my shifter is n. The Piston is moving n and out . But it's stuck in reverse. Can you tell what I can do to fix the problem.
it went out when I sent first message grass needs cut again lol and another rearend is 165.99 I ain't got. it will grab and move a few feet and slip again when in 7th gear won't do anything in lower gears
My Troy-Bilt Bronco 42 , 2017, but new to me stopped going forward. fast forward needed to replace the entire Transmission, the top gear spinning the belt had "egged". The new unit says "this transmission may be filled WITH FLUID. it says to check fluid level but as to watching this video there is only grease in the unit. I know these posts are all 10yrs old. hoping someone can help. Thanks!
Douglas Van Ness Any thick grease will work. These aren't performance parts and will never break down the grease. I use what is on hand but generally it's Valvoline Wheel Bearing/general purpose grease and then I splash a little 80-90W gear oil to help flow into the crevices(2Tablespoons).
Is it possible to make this transaxle FREEWHEEL so I can push it after breakdowns in the paddock? Thank you for your video and hopefully your reply. 11JAN2018
If it is a manual transaxle like in this video you simply put in into Netraul(F-N-R). If it is a Hydrostatic you pull the freewheel lever on the very back.
Thanks...but...whilst the input rotation is then separated from the transaxle, the wheels remain locked so that the MTD cannot be pushed. Perhaps I should have asked "Is it possible to make the WHEELS freewheel?" 12JAN2018
where'd be a good place on the upper half housing to drill and tap a 1/4 inch pipe plug fill hole on the single speed transaxle(2012) non hydrostatic ? I'd pour in some 85W - 140 gear oil. Or just drill a hole making sure to keep the metal from the last few thousandths of an inch of the bottom of the hole from falling into the transaxle and then just place a plastic plug after pouring in some oil . Would oil flow from the front where the power comes into the tranny back to the pig if there were say a pint in the bottom of the transaxle? LET HER LEAK OUT ONTO THE GROUND OVER A YEAR IS FINE WITH ME... just wanting to avoid premature failures on this fairly new low hour unit i have.
If I was to do this I would drill directly above the differential housing. It is sealed up pretty good and one application of gear oil shouldn't leak out.
and the added oil would be able to work its way forward to the forward/reverse assembly in the front where the power comes in through the trans pulley ? you suppose that pot-metal housing is machineable enough to take a tap ?
The metal seams to be a decent aluminum. It's not much thicker than 1/8" though. The main large axle gear will fling the oil around everywhere internally.
