Just saw this (3 yrs later) after buying a YT Capra MX 2 days ago and trying it out at Deer Valley today. Coming from a full 29er (who's rear traingle I just shattered), it's a completely different animal. This. Bike. Rips. It's everything you liked 3 years ago in a bike that was co-designed by YT and Ohlins to do exactly what you were hoping manufacturers would. It occurred to me that the more we ride mtb like motocross, the more our bikes resemble lighter-weight versions of them. MX has always been mullet...for the same reasons (descending) that we are now doing mullets in mtb. The more I ride mtb, the more similar it feels to riding MX.
Great vid... I like your objectivity. I've been riding a mullet for about 4 months now and I love it. I'm an old school 26" dh guy and was forced to go 27.5", ended up liking it so my last 3 bikes were 27.5. Being a DH'er, I was a 29" skeptic (hater actually), especially in the beginning when the bikes were tall, awkward and impossible to throw around. Fast forward... I now love the my mullet bike! The 29" front is like a monster truck and the rear remains playful... like you said, best of both worlds. If anyone is on the fence and you like to play on your bike, go mullet.. it's solid!
Yes! Love my new mullet... Started off with a stock Motobecane Fantom Pro 29'r with Altus long cage 3x8 with 2.25" tires front and back. I always felt kinda neutral sitting over the bike on the trails and wanted more tire. So got a set of 29'x2.6 tires. Front fit great but rear was just too big... So I did some studying, bought a wheel master 27.5 rear wheel, switched my drivetrain to a 1x with oval 34-36T chain ring, and a nice 27.5x2.4" Trail King from Continental... Immediately I felt the difference, way sturdier and corners beautifully! Can't wait to get past this broken toe so I can really get out and shred. Great video and thanks for taking the time to make it. I'm a daily, weekend rider that just got back into it after about 8 years. Happy shredding!
This is very good. I think I like your approach of mullet-ing a 27.5 bike with a 29er front wheel and appropriate fork, vs. putting a 27.5 rear wheel into an existing 29er frame. However, my current bike is a Trek Rumblefish - I'd still like to borrow a wheel to experiment as I wouldn't mind it being a slacker bike, but don't really need more than 120mm of travel with how I ride and at my age and skill level.
Might make my 98 Kona stinky a mullet. For aesthetic reasons. It’s got a pretty steep head angle. I’ve fitted it with marzocchi downhill forks. So it could take a little slacking and not hurt it. It’d make it look better as well. I’d be doing a 26/24 set up with the stinky.
I’m on a Status 160, mullet from the factory, and I love it. That big wheel out front gives a ton of confidence but it’ll still whip around the type of corners here in Utah. I love the way it jumps, especially on jumps where the lip is bike length or longer, the smaller back wheel pops off the lip so good. You have a point on the more bunny hop type jumps, I had to adjust and make sure I was pressing that rear tire all the way through the lip or bump and then it is nice and balanced in the air, something you get used to after a week or so. Great video!
Putting a 27.5 front end on an older 26" XC/trail turns out to be a way to breathe life into it. Those bikes typically had steeper head & seat tube angles, so slacking them is all good.
They often had steeper headtube angles, yes. But the seat tube angle wasn’t steeper, it was in fact a lot slacker back then. Which can be a problem on climbs, because the already slack angle gets even worse.
I think Mullet bike works better with shorter legged folks, since the negative effect of slacker seat tube isn't as bad! I actually likes converting older 29 hardtails by just swapping the rear since it's a quick swap, and slack head tube and lower BB makes it more modern, if you can tolerate the seat tube!
@@rolux4853 that’s where a dropper comes in use. Raise it up. You won’t get it as high as you always did but you can get it up there to make climbing better
@@bikersedge I've just put a 27.5 wheel on the front of my 2010 Yeti 575 which originally came in 26. I was lucky and found a second-hand wheel for US$20. I've had a Fox Talas 140mm, so with a Maxxis DHR II 2.4 tire I didn't need to change. There's just enough room underneath the brace. Depending on how evenly you seat the bead, an Assegai 2.6 almost fits. But it's too close for comfort and usually it rubs a little. As far as the ride goes, it's only been a few days but I haven't noticed any difference on technical climbs. Rolling over rocks might be a little easier, but it could be my imagination. Either way its been a fun project putting a bit more life into my old bike without breaking the bank.
Put a 29er with a 3.0 tire on my 94 Gary Fisher and it is fantastic! Definitely something I would recommend if running an older bike, slackens the geometry and now I can go anywhere no problem!
Yup, just mulleted my polygon square one, 180 rear, 160 front, it flies now. Agree with the technical climbing points, I dropped the bar height and that helped a lot or you could run a longer stem. The small jumps thing, i noticed that to on little hips where it feels like the front wheel stays on the ground and the back wheel goes up in the air. You get used to it though, its just the bike is balanced slightly differently than before. Same with cornering I felt I had to change my body position otherwise the back wheel would break traction. You need to keep you weight back a bit. Other than that the front wheel helps when the trail levels out a bit, it carries momentum where as before the bike would almost grind to a hault like an old downhill bike.
Really high quality analysis. I like that you took the time to measure the geo changes between the two setups. The way you broke down the slackened geo was cool: going down 10mm in travel still slackens the bike by 1.5 degrees. And thanks for the detailed analysis of how the two setups compare in how they ride. I really liked how you split it into different sections. Keep up the good work 👏
I just turned my heckler into a mullet. It’s everything what you said! Things happen slower in the front. The huge tire gives you so much confidence. I’m faster running Smooth single track with the 27.5 but dh and steep big rock gardens the slacked out mullet chews that up like cake. I slowed my rebound down in the back to help get the bike to jump more even. Try that, it works for the mullet set up.
Great review , especially the geek out section at the beginning going over geometry changes. I did the same with my Heckler and went with a 150mm from a 160 to prevent changing it into a chopper. I came up with almost the same changes proportionally. I have been riding a Levo which in my opinion is an extremely well balanced bike in that weight distribution is never an issue. The only limitations I had was that the Levo has a longer chain stay due to motor clearance issues which means less flickable in tight corners and more of a Caddy trail feel. So far in the limited amount of riding on my mullet Heckler I can already feel a noticeable difference especially in the back end in tighter corners and the slacker head tube is noticeable in the descents. Granted I am only riding in winter conditions on packed trails with studded tires, they are my regular trails so I have some muscle memory with the old bike. I know in the summer on normal conditions I am going to see the benefits I was looking for. On the climbing side of things I have also noticed a difference. I can feel that my weight is not as evenly distributed and the ease and comfort on long tech climbs are not going to be the same. I am playing with my seat position to try and get the balance right there. I am not that concerned with the big 29er on the front with climbing, getting the weight distributed correctly front and rear is more of an advantage in my books. Overall though I would say especially for eMTB's the mullet can make a lot of sense for people coming from analog bikes and wanting that flickable feeling you kinda lose with the extra heft and longer chain stays. Awesome content. Keep it up! Thanks.
Yep, been rockin' a mullet Specialized Enduro 29 (aka Frankenduro) for more than a year and I freakin' love it. Used the flip chip, then shimmed it a bit more, and a installed a longer through-bolt to raise bottom bracket.
@@bikersedge And also, I've found it's more intuitive to jump... Chin down and preloading the jump sends the bike in a nice wheel-up angle and then is easy to setup and "bunny-down" into the landing. Just my humble opinion of course.
WOW!!! Shocked to hear that about all the big raves about how fun and exciting to ride a mullet bike. For me though I'm 29er all the way I am just the type of rider that just wants to steam role over everything!!
Great video! Some bike definitely mullet better than others, I'm currently running a SB165 Mullet 170/165 and building a SB140 Mullet 140/140. I find the bikes that have a 20mm offset in suspension travel make for the easiest bikes to convert while still retaining as much factory geometry as possible as it chews up that ~26mm Axel to Crown increase on the 29er fork. Assuming the stem isn't fully slammed you can drop that down a 5mm spacer and your getting pretty close to factory body positioning. I went through a number of high end 29ers (FB29, 2020 Enduro, Ripmo) before I realized it wasn't the bike, it was the pure 29er setup I didn't like. After the last LT 29er I ended up on the SB165 because my riding style just got along with the bike better. I ended up having 29er parts sitting around and did the mullet conversion as a fun test. After the first ride it was my holy shit moment, straight line speed and roll over with the maneuverability I was missing through corners. Another advantage to mullets for people my height (5'6") is mitigating skimming on the rear wheel. I also find it has much less of the stand up gyroscopic effect when breaking late into corners, which I happen to have a blast doing.
Thanks for the kind words. Yeah I think the SB140 would be perfect because of the 20mm front and rear difference. Also an angle set could help get closer to factory geo.
Great vid bro it helps a lot of people trying to upgrade the bike without buying new 29er frame set instead 27.5 frame can compete the modern 29er frame.
I mulletet my Scott Ransom. I love it. The change in angles can be easily computed like this: sin[-1](axel lift / wheel base). With the same fork that would have been in your case: sin[-1](0.75 * 25.4mm / 1268 mm) = 0.9 degrees. Maybe your fork was still longer in spite of being a 130mm instead of a 140mm? Btw, if you apply same delta in angle you can see that you would need to shift your saddle almost 10mm forward to compensate for the slacker seat tube angle. If you do that, I did with mine, climbing is about the same as pre-Mullet. The only downside is the shortened distance from seat to handle bar. You could compensate by using a 10mm longer stem to be right back at ideal climbing geometry but would wants to do that. As is, with the saddle shifted, it is a great downhill improvement with little uphill cost.
Yes, the axle to crown on a 130mm 29” Fork is still longer than a 140mm 27.5” Fork. That’s where the extra few tenths of a degree come from. Tire size, tread height and air pressure also come into play when determining axle height. The wheelbase changes too because of the difference in fork offset. That’s why I physically measured rather than relying on a model or math to theoretically determine the change in geometry.
@@bikersedge Certainly true but some of these factors are quite minor, e.g., if you plug in the difference in wheelbase you get sin[-1](0.75 * 25.4mm / 1268 mm) = 0.86 degrees, versus sin[-1](0.75 * 25.4mm / 1268 mm) = 0.85 degrees. You have to trust Math more! But then again, empirical evidence beats theory ;-) I would imagine, however, that measuring 1/10th of a degree is pretty tricky and prone to random noise.
I have a Stumpy 29er. Change the wheel to a 27.5. Just love it. Agree on you on the jumping side, you have to get use to it litttle by little. I have also an Elkat which I'm going to make the test soon.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video. I have the same bike and took your advice to downsize to a 130mm fork on my mullet experiment. I also dropped my spacers under my handlebar to 15mm from 20mm. I rode out in Sedona in the Soldiers Pass area (blue climb, blacks downs) and have to say, I didn't experience the negatives you did at all. The ONLY slight issue I noticed was it took a lil' more effort and a technique tweak to throw the front end around when climbing on tight techy corners. Since I have other bikes of each size, I will be keeping the Mojo 4 as a full time mullet.
@@Error-hc7mp The improved rollover from the big front wheel and slackened HTA are nice. The low stack height of the Aeris is also improved in mullet mode. The question comes down to, would you enjoy your local trails with 140 up front?
This is a great look at the 79er. Great jpb, and thanks! But why is no one comparing to the 26 anymore?? Ha! When I get a new bike this year I'm going to have a lot of decisions to make... and this just adds to it.
As a SoCal guy, all we see is dry, brown trails. I love seeing the different color leaves and beauty of your Utah trails. I ride a 29ner and love it so won’t be trying the mullet. Plus I don’t want to feel like a StinkBug when I jump.
I am thinking about making my HD5 a mullet, but instead of 170mm front I'll put on a 150 to compensate for the already slacker ht angle. I think it might be a great setup. Great review and thanks for the spot on details, numbers and real world comparison.
I just got a Pivot Switchblade 29er. This bike is totally compatible with the mullet setup and plus tires as well. You can run this bike 3 ways, no problem and you don't need to replace the fork or anything like that. You only have to adjust the geometry by turning a bolt. This bike will actually perform better than the bike shown in the video because your rear wheel will be running a 27.5 plus tire (2.8) instead of a non-plus tire. This gives me a great incentive to save up for a 27.5 wheel set! As a matter of fact, my local bike shop offered to sell me a pair of 27.5 wheels at 20% off. You see, 27.5 bikes are not selling nearly as well as 29ers and bike shops are steeply discounting them. I know many people turn their backs on a bike like the Pivot Switchblade because in their minds, the geometry is too conservative and not slack enough. They fail to understand how great the Switchblade rides in spite of its numbers and many don't understand that it can do all 3 modes right out of the box (if you have the wheels and tires). One more thing: this bike can also run 29 X 2.6 tires front and back!
I converted my HD5 over to a mullet setup and I had the same impressions (dropped the travel in the front 20mm). I miss how my SB150 could smash through the rough stuff but I wanted something more playful. The mullet was kind of the best of both worlds. Now I need to decide if it's worth spending the money on a new fork since my buddy insisted I put his fork back on his bike.
Great explanation, thank you. Orange sells their Crush frame with a mullet setup (Crush MX). The geo chart is interesting compared to their 27.5 and 29.
I think everyone would enjoy a comparison of out of the box mullet bike to all mountain models. There are plenty of mullet bikes to choose from this year.
LiteVille Bikes from Germany have been doing scaling/mullet bikes for over 10 years now and for some years they had a simple system on the back so one can change the rear wheel size to match the front or run a small size. They are possible decades ahead of most of the other bike manufacturers.
Awesome video. Thank you for this. Subbed. I just picked up a 5010 v4 and it is similar to the Mojo. I went down to a 130mm fork to fit the 29er and I like it a lot. I feel almost bad for changing the solo to a mullet for such an expensive nice bike but overall I prefer it. I learned on a 29er but always felt a little small (5’6”) for 29ers and Standover etc. I’m so happy to see the mojo was so similar and that you prefer mullet over full 27.5. I’m going to stick with this on the 5010 v4. Now I’m debating on keeping it in lo or hi on flip chip..
Great review! I’ve thought of getting the M4 and trying this. I would run a negative angleset to keep the geometry the same as stock. I think if it were steeper, it might negate the sloppy technical climbing.
Agreed. One reason it descended so much better than the stock is the slacker setup though. I liked it way more in mullet mode. I’ll give up a little uphill ability for a whole lot of DH ability.
After trying 275 mullet & 29 mullet, I prefer 29 mullet better, lower bb, slacker head angle, longer chainstay better rear tire clearance. Had 165mm crank and 10mm longer fork, I felt sitting "in" the 29 mullet than "on" 275 mullet. I personally prefer the lower bb and slack head angle and a further rear wheel. Cornering is really very stable compared to 275 mullet.
Best review I have found for the mullet set up for a Mojo! I’d like to go to 160 or 165 fork to make it more capable going downhill. What do you think will happen then to the group then? Is it OK to do that? Fast forward to 2024 and bike manufacturers heard you! They ship mullet bikes now! I tried the Santa Cruz Bronson and was sold. I don’t want to spend $ to buy it so I thought of mulleting the Mojo 4 since it’s my back up bike anyway. I’m trying to stay away from buying a Bronson 😂, but want my Mojo to feel and to ride like a Bronson. How close can I get? Time for a NEW review! Compare a converted Mojo 4 with a 160 fork to a stock mullet like the Bronson! Thanks for your feedback!
I don’t think you’ll ever get a Mojo riding like a Bronson for a few reasons. The reason a Bronson rides like a Bronson isn’t solely because it has a 160mm fork. It’s the rear suspension design, the geometry and the build. Even putting a 160 fork on a mojo won’t make it ride anything like a Bronson.
@@nerdalert511 well I took it for a rip today and it's pretty awesome. Best part so far (that's different from other bikes I've had) is that with the mullet, on a loose corner, the back end will break traction just a little before the front and makes drifting way more predictable and controllable.
Just a thought... Mullet conversion specific forks, where you compensate for the Axel to Crown numbers or even take the 29"wheel into consideration regarding the numbers on the fork, then you wouldnt have too radical Geo change. Could Be interesting project
Biker's Edge well maybe on a 29" frame thats a solution, but NOT AS much with 27,5" frame, since you need a new fork anyway and why not adjust it there...
@@cyclicalcycler993 Apart from reducing the travel dramatically, there's not much you can do to get around the taller axle to crown height. You have to make room for a bigger wheel.
Biker's Edge so in theory what we need is 29" lowerlegs and 27.5" CSU and a bit of tweaking:) My old bronson could easily handle a bigger front wheel but only with out the extra axel to crown length added, tried already with a longer travel fork and a near plus tire and it rode better, but maybe theres a suspension engineer out there who could make such a conversion fork, they woul sell like crazy i guess... Cheers p.s i know they dont exist....yet! :)
Hey Connor you should have just called up Brent Foes and asked him since he has been making these for about 10 years!! He calls it the MIXER and that is what I ride!! His bikes are made just for this so everything was built just for this!! And get this all of his bikes are made in the good ol USA!!
My Forbidden Druid is the first 29er I've had/ridden. Felt the speed increase but tire buzz on the steeps was more than a bit concerning for me. I had a small wheel that I threw on and instantly became more comfortable except my pedals were constantly dragging in the dirt. Forbidden released their Ziggy link which I installed right away and I'm not going back. The bike is now .5 degrees slacker, reach 5mm shorter, just feels better. Like getting laid, sometimes you just get lucky.
Great Video Connor! Once upon a time (early 2000's) the downhill bikes were Mulleted with a 26 up front and a 24 in the back. My friend had a specialized Big Hit that came stock in this configuration. Such a different bike compared to my Stumpy back in the day! For a future Video, I would love something around tubeless tire pressure comparisons.
I have a 27.5 stumpjumper. I bought a 29 levo and fell in love with 29 wheels. My stumpy is in perfect condition and don't want to trade off and get .25 cents on the dollar, so thinking of putting a 9point8 slack-r headset on so i can keep 160mm fork with out totally ruining geo. Not sure which fork offset yet though. When I get off my levo and on my stumpy I feel like I'm not in bike anymore, but way above it.
Nice analysis. I’ve built a mojo hd5 as a mullet and it should be shipping soon! The hd5 comes with 170mm fork spec, so I dropped to 150mm. I believe I will have nearly the same stock geo... Was hoping the mullet climbs better on the long and smooth
Being 50+ I have switched to an eMTB for most of my riding. Mine was a 27.5+ bike that was equipped with a 29 fork, the switch was seamless and my numbers got better with just about 3/4" of rise to the front axle. Mullets rule and have for some time, it is not a new concept...
I’m not familiar at all with that bike. You’ll likely get about a degree slacker on both the seat tube and head tube angles of you made the swap though.
We don’t currently have access to enough mullet specific bikes at the shop to make this happen unfortunately. If at some point we do, I’ll try to make it happen.
I'm currently running 4 mullets myself. I found an old 26" Cannondale F400 with rim brakes in a pawn shop and I figured what the heck, let's try a old school mullet with this one. It is now a 24r26f with disc 180f 160r, and 1x9 drive. After a couple of adjustments, this thing is a baby rabbit just wanting to play. Single track dirt trails are great, just waiting to get out on the bigger trails here in Colorado to see how it handles. I know my limitations are in the terrain the 24 can handle. But what are they?
Cool video. Any thoughts on how it would perform at a bike park with more or less "groomed" trails. I have an Ibis Mojo 4 (650b.) A tad more stability perhaps?
If the bigger wheel is always up front then shouldn't it be a reverse mullet? When talking about the haircut a mullet has shorter hair up front and longer hair in the rear, right? So smaller up front and larger in the rear. In a bike that is reversed.
I'm curious as to how the mullet will affect my older gen mojo SL 26.5 bike, putting a 27.5 out front. I like the playful and well rounded nature of the bike but may want a bit more DH smashing abilities
Hey bikers edge, really enjoyed this experiment as well as the mojo 4 review! Would love some input, I have the mojo 3 with 2.8 tires. I'm thinking of going down to 2.6 (for a little more rotational speed). I ride in Monterey ca (Sea Otter Classic terrain for referance) do you have a/a couple tire set ups that you recommend? Any advice is welcome. Thanks and keep up the great work
Go watch our tire showdown video. I’d end up with something in the middle for that bike. Maybe a dissector front and Rekon rear. Or a Rekon and Rekon race.
Why can’t you put a 27.5 plus on rear of 29 er ? I got specialized enduro 29 that is 27.5 plus compatible. I wanted to do mullet thing just to play around with on park days.
You can if the tire clears. The big problem with 29 bikes that aren’t designed with mullet in mind, is the bb height gets too low with the smaller back wheel. The bigger the tire the higher it stays but I’m not the biggest fan of plus tires - especially in the rear. Usually the geometry works out better to start with a 27.5 and add the big front wheel/fork.
@@bikersedge Seems like the perfect candidate, 170mm front/153 Rear. Go 150mm 29'er Front. Sounds like a job for Bikers Edge.. you could review the HD5 AND try the mullet setup with it!! Your welcome. :)
Keep debating about a mullet set up on my 2020 yt jeffsy. Jeffsy front fork is 160mm and has flip chip in the rear. I have a 29er 150mm fork and I was thinking of putting the flip chip in the high position to try to keep it closer to its original geometry, not sure if this is a thing but I might give it a try after watching this.
So I took it out for a ride the other day, and.... I'm loving it, I completely agree with the video. Jumping is going to takes time time to get use too, yes my butt is up in the air more then usual haha, but I have a feeling ill correct this after a few rides. Cornering amazing able to rip into a berm with tons of confidence, way to much fun!!! The big wheel In the front works great in the area I ride (pisgah forest here on the east coast) so much chunk and the front wheel eats it up and with that it built more confidence, and it feels like I'm going a hell of a lot faster. This possibly might be a permanent thing on my bike now, which may save me from wanting to buy a 29er full suspension. Anyways keep up the awesome work, your take on this pushed me to try something new. Thank you!
It’s going to change when you swap to a 29” fork. I can only speak to the shorter offset but I honestly don’t think it’s too big of a deal either way. Use what you have/can get.
When doinng measurements, wouldn't you want to make sure the ground or bike holders are completely level instead of the axles since the axles presumably will be at different levels due to wheel size?
I didn’t mention it. Tires were both 2.5 but the rear wheel was an Ibis 35mm carbon rim and the front was a 30mm Enve AM30. I know it’s a little backwards but it’s what I had.
I made the M4 mullet conversion. Didn't really feel the stinkbug jump thing that you did however it seems to have lost some of its pop, but i guess that could be that I need to adjust the new fork. Overall, I love it but have a question for you. I wonder what the stock 27.5 Mojo would be like with an 1-degree angleset? I wonder if you'd get most of the benefits of the mullet setup?
? How did you measure the resulting head tube angle? Please, details. I put a 27.5 front end on my old 26" XC, and am loving the change. Also wider rims & tires front & rear. More rollover. Better feel. Would be good to get an accurate HTA measurement for when I start shopping for my next bike. Big plus: the whole process has increased my understanding of bike geometry, and how it affects the ride.
I don’t have one. It wasn’t super professional or anything. It’s some board to hold the front of the bike securely with shins under the wheels to level things out. After that I used bubble levels and a protractor.
150 should probably be ok. It will get quite a bit slacker though. With the motor it shouldn’t be too bad to pedal with a slack seat tube. I’d send it.
hi, great video! So I would like to “mulletize” a spectral frame ( 2020 frame) with stock 27.5 angles are 66 degrees head tube angle and 74 degrees seat tube angle: too slack to begin with? ( just as previously mentioned giant). Thanks in advance!
Hey thanks! I’d try to run it through some geometry calculators first. That seat tube is pretty slack to begin with. The head tube angle would be fine. I certainly wouldn’t run more than a 150mm fork. Maybe even 140 to keep the geometry close.
well you absolutely can do the mullet thing. in order to keep your seat angle i would get a setback seatpost and run it forward facing (in the opossite direction). this wil steepen the seat tube angle a little bit. the only downside is that the reach will decrease. unless you get a longer stem.
@@spotribe4452 Hello, yes I've made a mullet of my Spectral and I'm happy with the outcome! The seat angle is a bit on the slack side now, but I compensated by shoving the saddle as far as possible towards the front. I initially mounted a 29" pike fork with 140mm (to balance the larger wheelsize up front) but then increased to 160mm up front with the pike and now it's pretty good downhill. Going up very steep trails with tight turns is a bit more difficult than with my old 27.5 spectral, but I get more "downhilliness" in return. It's pretty fast and stable when going fast, but also nimble.
I have giant trance 27.5 with 150mm suspension and I intend to convert it to mullet. Should I go for front fork with 140 or 150 mm suspension? Where online one can make those calculations?
There are a few different bike geometry calculators online. The Trance 27.5 has a pretty slack seat tube angle to begin with. It’s going to get really slack in mullet mode. I don’t know if it’s the best candidate.
I mullet my yt capra 27.5 frame set with 165mm rearshox stock. without thingking i installed 29 fork 180 travel then i get sucked bec. When i riding i feel worst different. I felt like im ridding camel. the front are to high and all of my weight goes to rearshox and i get punctured twice because of the weight goes all behind. The handle Bar i notice became more heavier to the turn. In the end i return back 27.5 and sell the fork 29 but because of this vid ill try once again a 29 fork with 150mm travel. So any suggestions which fork travel for my yt capra 27.5 frameset ? Is it 160 or 150 of travel. Thanks
I’d put the bike’s geometry numbers into a bike geometry calculator to figure out what lengths fork you should run. Try to find an axle to crown length that will keep your geometry as close to the original as possible.