The unrivaled youtube master of the EOS M strikes again. Wouldn't be shooting the quality video that I have been able to this year without your tutorials!
Excellent tutorial Zeek, really good for beginners and advanced users as well as a reminder of what can be achieved with this great little camera, so many options now to get really good footage at various resolutions, formats and lenses, the kit lenses must never be ignored, thanks Zeek
Cheers Bernard! Honestly even with the latest cameras I have around, I never cease to pick this little Film Camera up haha. Yeah the Kit lenses are surprisingly Beasts! 😎👍🔥
There's much to learn with this little Film Camera haha, but for the price I have really enjoyed using it even with the latest cameras I have around. 😎👍
@@ZeekEOSZ Hello! i got my EOS M now, I have a question. why is 100 iso too dark? like I can barely see anything. im using the 18-55mm kitlens and its in the maximum aperature
Zeek once again you enlighten the EOS M community with your expert advice ,mi love those hi res modes , unbelievable footage , I hope your ML presets work on my EOS M , thanks 👊🎬
Ever posted anything about EOS_M photography using ML? Btw thank you for sharing your settings bro! Also your awesome videos made such an impression on me I went out and got THE camera! ..Now I have to learn it lol
This is a great tutorial Zeek... but, when you are explaining the various setups, it's hard to follow how you are navigating through the menus. Could you make a short video, or does one exist, on how to step though the menus?
Yeah, I saw that new Full Frame Box Camera 🤣 Looks good actually, haven't seen the footage yet. I'll be rocking more videos soon as I am going to have a work break. 😎🤙🔥🎥
@@ZeekEOSZ oh yeahhh 😎👍👍 have you tried the AVIR 2.8 recaler by Aleksey Vaneev ? I don't understand so much what it is, but the results seem promising !
Thanks for this! It’s inspirational, encourages meet to get out and film! Does anyone know when I set custom controls to iso/aperture the controls change iso/shutter speed instead? I wonder if it’s because I’m using ef-m 22mm lens which is electronic? There is a work around in changing iso via the canon menu, but it’s not the best for filming on the fly. Thanks for any advice.
Hi Zeek! Tell me how to enable autofocus by tapping the screen? It works on my other firmware and it’s very convenient (but it’s buggy and impossible to work), but yours doesn’t have autofocus. I don’t understand how to turn it on) Lens with autofocus
I just bought an EOS M because of your passion and tutorials. I normally shoot with Nikons and Sony so I don't know much about the Canon ecosystem. I am looking for vintage lenses right now. What type of adapters do I need if the lenses don't have the Canon EF-M mount?
You can use use C Mount to EOS M Adapter, M42/Nikkor to EOS M Adapters etc. Otherwise you can get a Canon EF to EOS M Adapter and then M42 to EF, Nikon to EF etc.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. Quick question for you. What is the benefit of shooting in 2.5K 2520x1418 over using 2.5K 1:1 centered frtp? Is it just the option to fill the screen with the image, or are recording times longer in 2.5K 2520x1418 mode?
You will get more record time by changing aspect ratio to 2.35:1/2.39:1, reducing the resolution, and shooting 10 Bit RAW. 2.5K FRTP has a real liveview, so what you see is what the footage being captured, whereas with the non FRTP (for real-time preview), you need to press the info button to see the actual framing of the footage being captured as the liveview is cropped in.
Hi Zeek..I'm big fan of your work man..I have just one question...What is continuous recording ??? I ask this because i saw from you that in some resolution modes you can record up to few seconds...So does continuous mean that you are not limited...Thanks for everything man...
Continuous is when you record without the camera stopping. In 1080, 5K FRTP and 2K 1:1 you can get continuous recording until the card fills up. Higher resolutions take more power and so you can't record continuously unless you change aspect ratio, bit depth or lower the resolution to find the sweet spot.
hey zeek i would like to know what camera youre using for your own footage and What about colour grading bec it looks awesome also blue colour Looks cool with you
Hi seek, I’m just looking to get eos m and start filmmaking. I have been a photographer for years with film Nikon F5 and digital with the D810. So I have some good quality lenses for F mount. Can these be used with an adapter with the eos m and what type would I need? I’m not going to use the auto focus so not looking for the electronics to work. Also I have some old Olympus OM Zuiko that are all manual, can these also be used with an adapter? Sorry for the questions, but being a still’s photographer I have never done video. Cheers Nik
You have three options. You can get a Nikon F to EF-m mount Adapter, or a Canon EF to EF-m Adapter and then a Nikon F to EF Adapter. I use Nikkor lenses on the Eos m with a viltrox M2 speedbooster for the Eos m and a Nikon to EF Adapter. Here is an example using a Nikkor 50 F2 H.C with the EOS M: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-__jrw00up2s.html
Hi Zeek, I've just got my camera and sd card, just done the download from your google drive for the ML build, but there's an extra file called .DS_Store do i need to put this on the card as well? All the vids show 2 flies and a folder? Also i'm on a Windows PC not a Mac but the install files should be the same I would think. Sorry for the noob questions. Cheers Nik
Hi again ! Also in an other video you talk about letting the shutter speed to 1/50 without touching the fine tune value because it could cause some issues during filming , can you explain what kind of issue ? If i remember well you said that explaining settings for the 5K frtp mode in your older EOS-M best settings . Many thanks Zeek !
Hi,Always learn a lot watching your vids - thanks a lot.I’d like to try 2.5K raw,but my ML seems different :in Movie mode (3rd from left)presets don’t show.Bit rate is at the top…I think the build is from 2018…How do I get the presets?!Thanks.
Is it possible to get a clean HDMI output from the EOS M? I'm looking to use it with my ATEM Mini for video production, but can't seem to get a usable clean output in the correct aspect ratio!
Fantastic to see your setups - I installed magic lantern on my 700D and noticed no audio tab menu I had hoped for headphone monitoring like i have seen on some EOS M videos but i see on your eos m there is no audio tab either - wondered how some are getting headphone output and if you are able also? kind regards from London UK
It's continuous raw for 2.3K RAW and below. 2.35:1/2.39:1 2.5K can also be about continuous raw. You can record until the battery dies or card fills up.
Hi Zeek, love your work. You’ve taught me so much about this new world of EOS M and ML. Thanks. Can I ask how you establish new custom modes, please? I’d like to add a “webcam” mode with H.264, 25fps, no Canon overlays, etc. I read in the ML forums that if I added a new named folder inside the SD card’s SETTINGS folder then that would let me create a new custom setting. But it didn’t work for me as no new custom setting appeared when I went into in the ML menus. Your advice would be hugely appreciated. Thanks, Simon
Hey Simon, So you go to presets on the Eos m, there's like preset 1, 2, 3 etc. Select preset 1 for example and restart camera. Set up your settings for that preset and then when you restart they will be saved for that preset. To rename, go onto the SD Card folder, ML, Settings and then you'll see the presets, you just rename them.
It hasn't overheated ever, even in harsh conditions. 2.5K 2.35:1/2.39:1 should be around continuous otherwise resolution bxan be reduced a little to achieve continuous. 2.2K 16:9 is around continuous RAW, 2.5K is about 8 seconds.
Hi Zeek, I really love your videos! So...i am recently use the Canon 6D with Magic Lantern, do you have any suggestion in which cards works proper for 4K unlimited recording mode? Thanks in advance and keep on filming!
@@ZeekEOSZ I use the Sandisk Extreme Pro 64gb, 170mb/s but its very limited in Rec. modes. I can go continuous recording only in 720p. Any thoughts? Thanks for the quick response, Zeek!
@@billpolitis8855 on the 6D 1080 mode or 2.5K should be continuous with 10 bit. You must be using an old ml build from the website. Check this one - www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25782.0
@@ZeekEOSZ Man you are an expert on this territory, i make it right but the 2.5K and more crop options has bugs or i dont know how to handle it! Thanks anyway bro!
Hey zeek! been binging all your video’s about the Canon eos M and i’m considering getting myself one. How long of footage do you usually get of 1080p 14bit before your card gets full? Thanks mate
Hi Zeek, great video! However, I am struggling with my EOS M, where by looking in your video it can do 28mbs+ on Raw Video record, however, when I reach 20mbs it just turns yellow and the expected frames drop considerably.. I am already using Sandisk Extreme Pro which is rated for 95mb.. I even tried a Sony tough which is rated at 277MB and still I can't get the same raw video resolution as yours despite following the settings.. any tips?
Hey Zeek! Been lurking on your channel for a long time and decided to finally pull the trigger and set up magic lantern on my EOS M - However, when I hold down the Trashcan Button it doesn't bring up the ML menu, the only way I can access it is by double finger tapping the touchscreen, this presents an issue however, because I use a external monitor. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
Hey! I have a question. I see all videos that I can about the Canon EOS M Raw, but nobady shows sound on their videos. That camera records audio when you record RAW videos? Everybody use music to show RAW videos on the EOS M.
I have an Canon M (Sandisk Extrem 64GB low speed ~ 60MB), with your setting. I only recored with Full HD 1080. When i turn to 2k, 2,5k, 2,8k, 5k the LCD turn to noise like 9:50 in your video. No preview for another reslution, when press recored the system error. Do you have any idea to fix?
Great informative video! I have a question.. which mode/setting do you recommend for? I want to record with a •monitor via hdmi •continuous raw •zero or minimal aliasing/moire •best resolution as possible •zero or minimal rolling shutter Thank you, Best regards.
The 2K Mode would be it. Works with monitors with the correct preview, no dropped frames, aliasing is minimal. Just has a bit of a crop factor, but would be fine with wide lenses like Canon 15-45, 10-18, Sigma 17-50 etc. For monitor use, the 2.5K HDM 2.35:1 is also a good choice.
@@Sipeo. The longer the focal length, the more rolling shutter will appear, expecially in the high crop modes. 2.5K HDMI will work best with Monitors 2.35:1/2.39:1, no dropped frames. 2K Preset will too, but it will be quite cropped, but normal liveview. 1080 Mode is okay if you avoid recording sharp landscape, and use depth of field, it can come out quite nice.
You extract the folder you downloaded within that folder, select Autoexec.bin, ML Folder and ML-Setup.FIR and paste them to your SD Card. Of you're using Big Sur on Mac, format the card first as MS-DOS FAT using Disk Utility.
Dear friend, I currently use a BMPCC4K with a viltrox ef-m2II, canon lenses and helios 44-2. I want to buy a canon 6d or 5d mark2 for my stills and I wonder which one is superior with ML. It would be nice to use the canon as a B cam. I would really like to hear your opinion.
The 5D3 would be better than both with ML. For stills I prefer the 6D and with ML, I haven't used it in a while and seems it has more development than the 5D2. I've made a ml settings video for the 5D2, it does have aliasing in 1080 so does the 6D, the 5D3 does not. I personally prefer the EOS M with 2.5K Raw.
Hi Zeek! I have a 700D, and I know the internals are quite similar, although magic lantern looks different from EOS M. When you record at 2.5K or 2.8K, you're not using all (or most) of the sensor, are you? What's the crop factor of these modes?
I’ve had two large issues with my eos m. For one the crop factor is just too large for some of the work I want to do. Secondly. I’ve had huge lighting issues where even if I have a decently lit scene. Once in the computer it’s unbelievably grainy. Any tips would be greatly appreciated
I have been through what you are saying but believe me you can achieve really great results with this camera, for large crop factors use wide angle lenses like the 15mm kit lens, you need lots of light, brightly lit scenes and if in low light you need a fast lens like f1.4 or even the speed booster attached, choose lenses like the Sigma 16mm f1.4 and other f2 (Canon 22mm f2) are the ones you need, you must monitor your exposure via the histogram, check Zeek's settings as they really work for me good luck
Well Said Bernard. Yeah, there are comprises to make to get good footage. I used a CPL Filter with the 11-22 Wide Angle lens. Cuts off the highlights so I don't have to keep stopping down the aperture and exposure. Always check the exposure level EV/Histogram to ensure you're not shooting too dark.
Zeek, I bought a EOS M specifically because of your video convincing me :D I installed ML but I can't get the recording button to work... In other words, I can't record any footage. Im using a C-mount lens and an Angelbird 65gb sd card. Your help would be much appreciated! Thanks!
Thanks a lot for all your videos and explanations, Zeek! I am using ML version Nightly.2021Jun26.EOSM202 build, but when comparing your screen for the raw video for 2.5k at 06:53 with my screen I cannot get up as high as you can until the text in the bottom turns from green to yellow. in my case selecting 2128x906 2.35:1 is green, while already the next higher 2144x912 2.35:1 already is yellow. even overclocking my SD-card to 240MHz still does not change anything. also tried to disable audio. do you have a hint, what might be the reason for that? best regards from vienna, austria!
What card are you using? Also in the original canon menu make sure you're shooting 24fps and not 30fps. SD Overclock is best at 192MHz, 240MHz isn't the best.
@@ZeekEOSZ I am using SanDisk Extreme PRO 170 MB/s cards, e.g. one with 128GB and another one with 256GB. I have tried your suggestion, but unfortunately it did not improve. However, what I found out is, that ML seems to run a certain kind of statistics for the writing rate. it then derives the expected write rate based on that „learning“ and uses that for estimating the expected rate. you can simply try that out; go into the raw video menu and crank up the resolution until you reach the top and note down the rate shown at the bottom of the screen where it says: „Expect xxxx-yyyy frames at ZZ.Z MB/s.“ start a test recording for some while, then revisit the same menu and you will see that the same phrase noted down above will have changed depending on the experience of the prior recording. It even changes the estimation while just having the menu open keeping the camera towards a subject. when light changes you can see the estimation adjusting to that as well, because the filesize per frame changes. I can see here quite some variation of the writing rate which of course is the basis for the resolution that we can still use safely. the calculation seems to be as follows: as long as more than 500 frames are expected to be stored the line turns green. Seems I have to experiment how far I can get with an average scene while still being safe…
@@CKonecny Thanks for sharing 👍 The EOS M has a small buffer unfortunately. When the sensor is exposed to brighter conditions it needs to process more data and therefore record time becomes reduced. What I can suggest, is uninstall the build you are using and start fresh with this one and see how it performs then: bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magic-lantern_jip_hop_git/downloads/
I gave both versions from the link you shared a try and could not see too much difference on a first glance. but I think this requires a bit more testing. I think it is rather obvious, that for the best possible data rate we have to switch to live view mode whenever possible, since framing mode is consuming quite a lot of the little M‘s ressources… so far with live view mode I get rather good data rates around 60MB/s. it is always good to disable histogram, focus peaking etc. to have most of the capacity for encoding the video
I had issues using a stock 15mm-45mm Canon lens. I was thinking my issue was the image stabilization, auto focus, etc., using system resources but maybe that isn't the problem. I wasn't even able to use any of the settings besides the default 1080 mode until I switched to a manual lens. I also wasn't able to record in the higher resolutions. So if you are using any lenses with auto focus, etc., try switching to a completely manual lens.
Can you provide the focus pixel map file used by EOSM? I used the mac version of the software to open a file above 2k, and the download failed. Thanks!
This is MLV App: mlv.app/ When you install it, and open it for the first time, it will ask you if you want to download all the pixel maps, you select yes and that will do the trick.
No it isn't. It's like 720P HD equivalent but with RAW benifits. I just prefer having the whole liveview, rather than a little box. The cropped in Liveview also helps me to get better focus more quickly.
Hello Zeek ! Can i ask you how you get rid of the focus pixel dots when you are exporting in cinema DNG via MLV app ? I love the process of exporting the cinema dng losseless files to grade them with Camera Raw in a more photographic way but unfortunatly , the fix for focus dots in MLV App doesn't apply to the DNG's .. The only way seems to apply The Chroma Smooth setting to 3X3 and it works but with a loose of sharpness . Thanks for your help .
You need to install the focus pixel maps. Delete your MLV App and install it again, and it should prompt you to install the maps to which you then accept.
@@ZeekEOSZ Unfortunatly i already tried it , twice , without any success . I mean that everything is fine in mlv app , i can see that the focus pixel dots are gone when i activate the setting ,and all is fine as well when i export in Prores and other codecs . But , they are still presents when i export to cinema DNG's looseless or uncompressed ... I'm desperate now ! 😒
@@AllTrackerz Are they slightly muted or bright red? If muted, not much else you can do, except lose the dynamic range to hide them a little, e.g. lifting Highlights or white level.
@@ZeekEOSZ They are in full bright red glory 😂, like nothing was done to remove them . I've just read on the github page of MLV app that the exact same issue was reported recently by someone else , maybe someone is working on it, i will investigate . Thank you ;)
The crop modes are explained in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MiUaR0FfUXQ.html It depends on the lens you use. The modes crop won't change because of the lens used.
Can you please tell me how can I shoot in 1080p raw? When I shoot skipping frames from me, more precisely, a red frame appears. And the second question. When I try to shoot at 2.5k, the video may stop when the lighting changes, although the frame indicator is green. How to be? Extreme card about 170mb / s
Enable 10 Bit, make sure you're not shooting 30fps. 1080 mode is always continuous. With 2.5K, 16:9 isn't continuous, need to reduce resolution for that. 2.35:1/2.39:1 are around continuous, reduce resolution a little to achieve continuous or longer record times.
@@ZeekEOSZ I have 10 bits, I try different settings anyway, the recording is green, and when the freeze frame light changes. And one more question. If you shoot at 1080, then how to get rid of the red frames that sometimes slip?
@@AirFlights Do you mean the pink dropped frames? These can happen when using a monitor or shooting 30 fps in 1080. Otherwise, I never get them in this mode. Try a fresh uninstall, by updating firmware and waiting 60 seconds. Restart and format card then install the Latest ML Build again: bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magic-lantern_jip_hop_git/downloads/
Hi Zeek i hope you can help me out with a problem. I installed the latest version of Magic Lantern from your link as you described in another video on my EOS M (firmware 2.0.2). When I turn on the camera after installation, I can only get into Magic Lantern in photo mode. Or a usable version of it. In contrast to the video mode, where the screen starts to flicker, the picture freezes etc. I really hope there is a solution for this because im so hyped to shoot RAW with this little beast right now. Greetings Julian
@@ZeekEOSZ So I got the problem solved myself. You should not change any camera settings before installing ML. Yesterday evening I came up with the idea of simply putting the camera back to factory settings. And it worked. Unfortunately, I hadn't taken any pictures or videos of it before and don't want to reproduce the error. While writing this text, I noticed an additional error in the video mode. When switching through the info screens (I don't know if that should be possible at all because from time to time I can't switch them on) I have 2-3 fps, you can see the picture updating and it's extremely noisy. I'll send you a video on instagram.
@@jorgevargas3134 Yep, the vintage lenses help though with that look. I don't use plugins. But exporting in MLV App as DNG and grading DaVinci is what I normally do these days. The look is there instantly. Add some grain overlays and you're good to go.
Hi. I tried hdmi monitor to my EOSM it , cable seem to have poor conection and my M suddenly turned off. Now when i try to turn it on it flashes green light nonstop but nothing happens. Do you know what this means?
The camera is fine. It's nlhappemed before. Take out the card and battery and try again. You can format the card as MS-Dos FAT on your mac or pc too and do a fresh install.
Hi Zeek - I do not know what I am doing incorrectly. I am trying the 2.5K settings you recommended but my problems happen when I look at the screen - I get purple screen and then a white screen with a bunch of colored diagonal lines - no matter what ISO or aperture settings I cannot see the image I am supposed to be shooting - I know I am missing something somewhere - I am using the 18-55 Canon EF-M lens. I cannot select the shutter speed of 1/50 - best I get is 1/48 - I can get ISO 100.
I had the same issue when I used the stock Canon 15-45mm lens. I was racking my brain trying to figure out what was causing the issue. I was able to record with the 1080 preset but anything greater resulted in the purple and white diagonal lines you mentioned. I did have image stabilization on, so perhaps the processing that the digital lens uses, causes the lcd screen to crap out. Once I switched to a manual lens it worked just fine. I thought that I might have had conflicting settings or something, and tried using other Magic Lantern builds, which didn't work, but it worked once I switched lenses out.
Yep. Continuous. 2.5K RAW 2.35:1/2.39:1 is around continuous, reduced to 2.3/4K you should get continuous RAW Video. 1080 Mode and 5K FRTP RAW are all continuous too.
I have a problem with my EOS M: in 1080 p mode (RAW/magic lantern) there are some white spots/hot pixels (only a few, no pattern, so I think no focus pixels?!) - unfortunately they are recorded and they appear in the final video clips. If I uninstall magic lantern and record normally (1080p/h264) there are no hot pixels. Do you have any idea what to do in order to get rid of them in magic lantern. Is there probably a posibility of sensor remapping on the EOS M? MLV App also offers fixing bad pixels, but normally I export DNG-Files to Davinci Resolve ...
Delete MLV App, the reinstall again it will prompt you to download/Load the pixel maps, make sure you accept. They'll then all load and the issue will be resolved.
@@ZeekEOSZ Thanks for your help! Reinstalling MLV App was the perfect solution. In addition I created my own bad pixel map! Now all hot pixels are gone ...
Hi zeek, i have a problem with mlv app in my win 10 64bit, when i tried to export clip, it ran nomally but at the end, instead of :" export aborted",it said :"export is ready" and then did not have any clip exported. Hope you can help me solve this problem. Anyway,love your work,you inspire me so much. Thank you for all.
@@ZeekEOSZIt worked I imported the clips as single video file in media pool from saved location via drives directory Thanks alot for your teachings sir
2.5K 2.35:1/2.39:1 should be about continuous, reducing the resolution will help get contiuous. 2.8K is 8 seconds otherwise, if shooting underexposed of gotten beyond 8 minutes.
@@LouisLuzuka Yep. More light in your scene, the camera as to process more data. Underexposed scenes, you'll find you get more record time. At 4:25 in this underexposed scene + gimbal, I managed to get 2 minutes of straight recording with the M at 2.8K RAW 2.35:1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--bLcoFSFfTk.html&ab_channel=Zeek.
@@ZeekEOSZ my question is, are you able to recover the under exposed scenes? because I use mlv app to convert to Alexa log c, then I color with the rec 709 lut in DaVinci resolve so I'm just a little confused if I should be dealing in the exposure in mlv app or in DaVinci, I'm just confused because I tried the dng files but my computer always crashed the app whenever I tried that. so I stick to apple pro res 444 in Alexa log c even if the file sizes are really big, I just don't know if it makes more sense to find the right exposure in mlv app or davinci I always try and expose everything in camera because its stressful to try and recover everything in post
@@LouisLuzuka DNG in Davinci does a pretty good job with fixing underexposure. Plus you also have denoiser if you need. I can recover them, it depends how under exposed. High resolution helps in low light. When you Apply Alexa Log C in MLV App, you've encoded the MLV Format into a LOG curve. Adjust everything in Davinci. I generally just do it all with the DNG. It shouldn't crash on you.
I'm still really confused with all these 1080p and 5k and all, I'm on a 1080p mode filming 5k? What? And all these filming times etc. Can I use just 1080p without cropping. And can I use 48fps on 1080p?
Hi. It often seems complex for a little while, at first, but it's not really complex. The 5K modes are separate from 1080p. If you ever use 5K, use the one that says "5K frtp," as that is the best one. Frtp means "full real-time preview," meaning what you see on the screen is exactly what you will be recording, and when you upload the files into MLV App you won't have to stretch the anamorphic. Yes, 1080p mode doesn't show any cropping on the screen (other than the basic 1.6 crop of the EOS M). 48fps mode is always 1080p on Magic Lantern RAW, and sometimes has lots of dropped frames, thus you will need a fast SD card, and you may also want to experiment with lowering the frame rate at bit, such as to 40fps so that you don't get any dropped frames.
In the link I left a tutorial video on the basics where I go through all these modes and how to access them. This video is more strictly based on the two presets: 2.5K & 2.8K RAW There are a range of presets you set, 1080, 5K FRTP, 2K, 2.5K & 2.8K for example. I go through them in my other tutorial Vids and channel trailer.
@@ZeekEOSZ Watched that and it was good but still don't know if 1080p is reliable if I want to shoot 2.35:1, 10bit Raw, 24fps and sometimes broll 48fps? Is the liveview so laggy? Must be totally unusable if using external display if the liveview is already so laggy. Also I'm confused about the recording times. If shooting 2.8k raw it must have extraordinary big file sizes... that's why I want to shoot only 1080p.
Magic lantern, does it really make good video files? I've read that it can do raw video and it's as good as Panasonic?( I just want to ask, haha) If it's really good, I want to try and buy it.
Which Panasonic Camera? It's not great in low light hence you need a speedbooster, fast lenses or lighting. You need to know how each mode works. There is aliasing in 1080 mode, although it continuous Raw. 2.5K/2.8K have a really nice Super 16 Look. Paired with wide IS lenses you can get some great results. These high resolution modes need to be adjusted to get continuous Raw. But if I'm shooting a film scene, I generally don't need more than 5-8 seconds per clip.
@@film5568 The Sony 4K File details are better + better AF, but I like the Look of the EOS M RAW. They're in my opinion two different cameras. The EOS M is like a movie film camera from the 80's, the Sony is a nice RU-vid/Vlog Camera. This video was shot on the Sony A7C: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yZfosm3IuZI.html
Hello, while shooting 2.5k with your modes, I can press the shutter as much as I want and autofocus. But with other mods i mean 1080-2.8k-2k-5k frtp i am not able to aouto focus with shutter button (it only allows once, when I press the button during shooting, it only zooms and does not autofocus again) I hope I was able to explain my problem. HUGE THANKSS Love Youu
@@ZeekEOSZ I think there is a feature in 2.5k mode that you offer us that other modes do not have, so it does not allow us to change focus again and again in other modes. I've been trying to find the problem but couldn't find it.
Hi Zeek i loaded the magic lantern files on a formatted sd card but after put the sd card in the canon EOS m it doesn't detect the software, it's a 8gb sd hc card 30 mb/s is there a card required? we can load on any cards ? Sorry if my english is bad 😂
@@marvinfilmaker You need to be in manual mode. Press info button until you get to the Eos m dashboard. Top left camera icon, select manual. Either that or make sure you're on the photo icon above the Eos m to update firmware. 👍
Is this still the settings you're using on your latest videos? Which settings do you find yourself using the most when wanting to achieve the best look without a monitor and with a monitor?
Yeah these are still the same settings I use 👍 I'm the recent video I used 1920x1080 30 FPS, the settings are also in that video. With a monitor, I would go with 2K 1:1 Mode, 1080, 5K FRTP & 2.5K HDMI Mode. Without the monitor, 5K FRTP, 2.5K Mode & 2.8K Mode.
Hi Zeek, I am using an Extreme Pro 128GB 170mbps but I can't get the 2k mode to work. I followed your settings but I get half pink half white white on screen. I don't know what to do :) Thanks as always.
I walk through that mode in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UCc4VNzivwE.html Don't enable fps override or image fine-tuning in tab 3.
@Zeek. hi Zeek turns out my EOS m camera shutter has problems and is now dead :( it is so hard to find another one here in the Philippines. But thank you for your help as always.
