My Favorite Crankset That No One Knows About 

Russ, this is why I love your channel. Well thought out practical solutions without trying to be NASA. Real world stuff, tried and tested with your own investment and your own legs. Thank You!

For me the analysis goes thus: 1. 1x systems have too small a range. Therefore a front derailleur is necessary. 2. Once you have a front derailleur you might as well have three rings to have a good range while avoiding huge steps. 3. if you have a 2:1 ratio big/small at the front, a 3:1 ratio at the rear is enought to give a 6 ratio overall. 11:34 does that without an extreme derailleur. 4. As per another post you use the big and small chainrings only with the 3 extreme cogs, so keeping chainline straightish. 5. 9 speeds at the rear is a good number. 9 speed gear is easy to find. 3x9 triples are the sweet spot for me. Inexpensive with easy to get parts, and easy to use. So good it is very hard to improve upon.

Being somebody who is only recently getting into cycling as an adult, this sort of wide low double chainring setup is exactly what I've conceptually thought about and want to setup. Basically, just use as a 1x, with an extra super low climbing chainring. Thanks for pushing the more reasonable side of cycling friend :)

its funny, I was watching this and thinking, "huh, 40/22 sounds familiar". my mountain bike is set up 2x10 with 40/22 and 11-36 with standard deore xt components from about 2012. I bet if you found a more mountain-specific front derailleur from the period it would shift just as awesome as mine does.

Fully agree. 2 x is the sweet spot for me, too. Personally I prefer the compact crankset layout 50/34 or 48/32, but the idea is the same and to my knowledge it never was out. Shimano's GRX offers just that. Or you just repurpose an old 5-arm 110mm BCD MTB crankset - there is all kind of rings available for this format.

I ran a "mountain double" crankset (38/22) on my trail/all-mountain bike, and it worked great on almost every kind of terrain I encountered. The big ring was large enough to reach high speeds on flat ground or pedal comfortably on mild descents, and the small ring (combined with an 11-36 cassette) offered some very easy gears for climbing up steep gradients. This setup was kind of the extreme low end of wide-low gearing, but it was perfect for the type of riding I did at the time.

One day, about 30-40 years from now for most of you watching this channel, you will begin to realize why this is such a good idea. I’m 75 and it really doesn’t matter much here at my home in Florida, but when I travel to hilly states, I would appreciate some lower gear choices in a 2x. I could go to a 3x but a 2x geared for my ability would simplify things and save a few ounces.

I'm in love with 9 speed system because of it's flexibility. You can combine any 9 speed cogs of any type of cassettes. You can have nice Shimano Sora drop bar shifters, nice steps and variation and still have triple chainrings. Also there is possibility to make some 14-52t cassette if you want lower gearing without sacrificing efficiency with some 9, 10 or 11t cogs. If you travel somewhere in remote area, you can slap any 9 speed rear derailleur and it will work (except very old dura-ace) also if you bend that thing that holds cable bolt of 6,7,8 or 10 speed derailleur, you can alter cable pull enough to get to next good bikeshop with having anywhere from 7 to 9 working gears.

I have different views on the purpose behind the triple. For me it not only optimizes gearing range, but also (when used accordingly) optimizes chainline. If you only use the big front ring with the three smallest rear cogs, only use the small front ring with the three largest rear cogs, you avoid both overlap and save most riding for the middle chainring and middle cogs. Keep the chain parallel to the frame for longer life and fewer mis-shifts.

The mountain bike that we here in the Philippines could afford, a month's salary, is the 3x7. We are used to change the chainwheel every 2 or 3 gear changes in the freewheel. The oldies taught us that. So it is not necessarily a 21 speed but still a 7 speed, especially for the people who wishes to make their chains last the longest. The most affordable chains here is the DID worth $4.

I've ran the same exact crankset, and in Asia we have quite the range of options for chainrings specifcally for these XT-modelled triples! Not sure if they're available in the US. But we got a brand called Deckas, Really affordable too! Ixf Cranks + BB : $20 shipped Deckas Chainrings : $5 Shipped

Really was not expecting to see an IXF crankset on this channel. I've been running these for years and it's insanely good value.

with my old 3x MTB I used to use the middle ring 95% of the time, then only drop down to the 24t small ring when things got really steep. So yeah I this wide low 2x idea.

Fun fact: The IXF crankset is one of the most popular cranksets in the Philippines. Usually it's the go-to brand for cyclists who want to upgrade their bikes for the first time. I personally run it on my fully rigid mountain bike and my touring bike.

what was that site you scrolled through re triple gearing?

Lots a good creative ideas here, trouble is always the front derailleur, lots don’t do well with bigger than about a 12 tooth jump and still be smoothish

I've been running a 40/26 with an 11-42 10 speed run with microshift thumbies for touring, bikecamping etc for the last 6 years and its always been amazing at everything. I've been building a stash of mtb doubles since

Ive been using a 1x for two year and just recently switched to a 3x7 bike. And i honestly love it. I use all three chainrings way more than i thought i would. I think the key is really good shifting to be able to dance between all the gears.

Another thing I discovered: if your budget won't quite run to a Shimano GRX chainset, they also do a 46/30 in the budget Tourney range for little more than a third the price (GBP32 vs about 90 for the GRX). Just sharing this with you as I stumbled across this by chance; I never even knew Tourney did doubles never mind a 46/30! I used this to lower the low gear on my gf's gravel bike from 34/27 to 30/36 for less than GBP100 total (including 12-36 cassette and Alivio mech). Granted it probably doesn't have the longevity of GRX but if it gets you moving that's good, right?

Just swapped out GRX 46/31 with the White Industries G30 cranks and 26/42 VBC chainrings - works like a charm. Great set-up and I'm still using the GRX derailleurs with 11-speed cassette.

I hope your right, that some one in the bike industry sees and starts making more wide-low cranksets. I took my old SR Apex crankset , 1/2 step granny with 86mm BCD, and turned into exactly what you described. I now have a 42-28 setup. Love it. I think taking old triples and ditching the high gear is the way to go.

I run Deore 10 speed - 11 to 36 rear and 38/28 front. Suits me very well but I guess would need a little lower for bikepacking etc. Cheers Russ, keeping it Party Pace 👍

I have several of those IXF cranks and like them as a cheap option for 1x and the 2x as in the video. One bent a crank arm when I caught a pedal on the side of a rut at a slow speed last year. Just a cautionary tale that they may not be the strongest crank out there.

I've realized I don't miss the 50x11 when I don't have it but I do use it on my gravel bike that has 700cx42mm - which is now basically my road bike these days. I'm really happy with the Velo Orange 46x30 I put on my 90s MTB.

I did similar recently with my 26-36-46. I removed the 46 and changed the 26 to a 22. On my first tour with it right now and love it

My bikes: Salsa Vaya (tour) 40/22, 10-34 Salsa Fargo (rough tour) 36/22, 10-36 Otso Warakin (gravel) 38/26, 10-42 Kona Unit (rigid MTB) with 34/24, 10-42

I run a triple but I think it's helped by the fact it's also on our tandem, so I'm just always in the mindset of using a triple when switching between the two. Can live in the big ring for rolling tarmac, dropping in and out of middle for climbs, and just stay in middle for gravel or hillier roads, and then have the granny for horrible climbs / tired legs. I know it's an antiquated way of thinking these days, but i like having a cheapo 9 speed cassette on the back with smallish range and small jumps, with the front providing the range.

I currently running with quad chainring setup with 24-34-42-48t rings, bottleneck here for gear range is freewheel rear hub that just limits me to 7 speed megarange freewheel with 34-14t cogs, 14t is too big for top end, and 10t difference between 34 and 24t (1st and 2nd) cogs is too big. Atleast chainline isn't a problem with quad. gear range is between 18-84 gear inched across 14 usable speeds in 28 speeds.

I'm back to 2x. 3x range was great without needing huge expensive cassettes and bad chainline, but keeping the rings clean was a pain, and I'm kind of sensitivie to Q. Plus, it was easier to cross-chain to the point of it being a problem. 1x was easy, but chainline was awful and the cassettes are huge and crazy expensive. 2x lets me get the range I want, and good chainline in both ranges with reasonable cassettes. Another thing is that efficiency in big gears is better with big/big than with small/small. I can feel it on my "go fast" bikes.

I built my New Albion Drake flat bar on/off road adventure bike with an FSA carbon crank, 39/27, and Sram XD 10-42 in the back. With 650b X 2.1 tires, I have 17-106 gear inches. Bam. An XT 11sp rear mech shifts flawlessly without a wolftooth adapter.

I discovered a Shimano ultra-low triple, 40x30x22. Basically the same as your wide-low except with a middle ring to bridge the gap. And it will work with my regular 10-speed cassette, resulting in 98.8-16.6 range in gear inches. Wish me luck!

I tried this over the weekend with my 3x9 and unfortunately it doesn't work for me. With the big ring in the middle, there is some cross chain when getting into high gears. Chain rubs in the FD too but I admit I haven't tuned it well. I also found myself shifting more often with both FD and RD when riding in my base gears. Finally my RD looks more stressed sitting on the big ring all the time. That said I think it was worthwhile trying and I can see how it can be a step up for those coming from both 1x or 3x systems. Will give my 2x more time and tuning though I might move back to 3x if I dont really like it Update: 1x IS A FUDGING LIE! 3x FO-EVAH!!!

I use a 11 to 20 tooth rear cassete with 5 sprockets mounted on the outside of a shimano 7 speed freehub body and a 20 and 44 tooth dual chainring. I therefore get everything from a 1:1 to a 4:1 ratio with no superfluous overlapping duplicated gears. It's light and has worked perfectly for 3 years now. I cycle about 80 miles per week on average.

3x7 on deore 1987 thumbshifters always work any way for me it was better than 2x9spd on 26x2.4 tyres

I have been doing this is since 2012. I first ran a 44/30 using a triple as a double. I later Used an IXF crank to run 38/22 on 10 speed setup. Basically I find it best to have the big ring do 90-98% as if it was a 1x then have the small for hills or loaded riding. This is why it was called Dual Range (I think the late Sheldon Brown coined that name). I also run a 44/26 using a TA chain rings (50.4 bcd crank = TA/SunXcd/VO). Soma Fab now have a 94bcd crank to run46/30 too

3x has overlap, but it’s still the best in terms of lowest friction/less grinding/more silent drivetrains… and we’re talking 90’s steel mtb frames here, the weight penalty of a 3x is negligible… plus 3x just look right on these bikes 😁

This seems like a great option! With others here I have generally run a 110/74 triple as a wide-low double. I’m sold on square taper so that limits what modern options I can get. Great video!

Hey Russ, been watching your drivetrain experiments for years and always learn something. I've just bought a new to me (used) Jones spaceframe bike and its come with sram NX , one x 12, Im not a fan as it doesn't give the range for the type of riding I do , always had 2x and 3x before. Do you know of anyone who has converted 12s one x to double? Do you think it would even work with a 10/50 rear ? Your thoughts would be much appreciated before I hit ebay start buying parts and tinkering...... Cheers. J

I love the idea of a Rene Herse-style super/subcompact, like you say, 40Tish-26Tish, and use it mostly in the big ring with a bailout option.

Temple do a triple 44 34 24. I combined it with a 11 - 36 9 speed. Epic.

I have a 1x12 Shimano Deore. Is it compatible with this crank setup?

Spa cycles in UK sells a Super compact double by replacing outer ring of a triple with aluminium chain guard. They do many combinations (46/30, 44/28, 42/26, 40/24). New Albion do something similar with their 42/26.

you can do the same with a 110/74 BCD triple and rings from Specialités TA. smallest ring you can get is 24t. just mount a slightly wider square-taper BB and you're golden. chainguard in the outer position for aesthetics optional.

I’ve been using a gx 24/36 double for a few years without a front derailleur. It isn’t ideal ease performance but I just get off and put the chain down w my hand when I need the little 24 for a big climby zone.

Damn you! You've now got me thinking of converting my Campagnolo Record Triple into a 2x sub compact by grinding off the teeth of the 50T outer chain ring to create a chainguard.

Makes a lot of sense. Just went 1x this year, and although it simplifies maintenance, I’m afraid I won’t have enough climbing gear without big gaps in the middle rang where I ride most of the time. Thanks. Great option

TA Spécialités from France have a 104BCD 40T & 42T option with their chinook 10/11-speed chainrings. Not sure about the availability over the pond, but they do exist. Have mixed a Sram road crank with an old 104/64BCD MTB spider, which share the Sram 3-bolt interface. Built it up with 42/26T rings. So basically a DIY, weight wheenie setup of your crank.

I sense a strong triple anxiety in this video. 40/30/22 is the way to go.

I’m a pretty competitive long distance cyclist (mostly Ironmans) and I figured out that if you are going over 27 mph, that’s a great time to coast and recover. You don’t need gears higher than that because you will be faster in the end if you use that time to rest for the next hill

i have 3 bikes all with triple, def tend to stay in the big ring...but im more of a masher than a spinner. Yet I have learned the middle ring is more for the spinners and at the end of the day spinners are more efficient and cause less long term leg tiredness. The 22t is just for going zen on a climb on a steep climb which I love to do, when its long and steep. Gotta love the leverage.

“Adventure crank” used to be how riders would finish grand tours.

Seems like Sugino is quietly making some options for wide/low gearing on the 24mm hollowtech spindle, which is encouraging, though it is nice that Shimano is offering the 46/30 GRX setup, too. Hopefully in not to much time, there will be lots more replacement rings popping up for these setups!

Lots of us built our first "gravel grinder"s with MTB doubles. Running 38-24 ane 39-26. I have a grinder with an old carbon FSA triple MTB crank with a 38-26 and a pant guard or caps. Light, cheap with rings available in any size from 44 to 36 and 30 to 22 small rings. Glad to see you bringing attention to these options.

Had a 26-42 wide low on my 26er, worked like a dream. Sram x9 11-36t on griphift

I think it's great that you're showing us some good options for wide gear ranges. Especially reasonably priced ones. But I'm personally really really happy with my GRX setup. It gives close to 100 gear inch range out of the box with really really nice shifting and no hunting around for odd parts. And it seems to hit my (ymmv) perfect sweet spot of gear range on my bike with my preferred 40mm tires.

I run a 11-46 rear 11sp, with a 34/24 front. I think the 24 is perfect for the low gearing. I think that if I had to do it again I would have done a 36 or a 38 for the bigger chainring, and I probably will still move to it in the future.

I don't like 1x, it's a stupid marketing gimmick

I love my triple ring for my touring bike. I don't use the big often but when I need it I have it

Thanks so much for making this video. I love these wide/low cranksets, and I really don't understand nobody is making these. Your hack of that triple is supersmart, and relatively cheap. I still have one of those Alivo triple cranks, so I am going to try that out. My setup at the moment is a Ultegra 10 speed triple crank, with 39x26 chainrings. This works very well. I think the 22t inner chainring is way too small, a 26t or 28t inner ring makes more sense to me. Russ, thanks again for sharing!!

I came to literally the exact same conclusion for my touring bike. I also had the same problem trying to find a 40 tooth chainring, so I'm running a 38/26 with an 11-42 in the back.

I like dropping from outer ring to mid ring on 3x for when you hard stop.

I absolutely love this. I have a 3x9 currently, but I don't like my triple crankset for the same reasons you mentioned. With the lack of wide low cranksets, I was going to use a 46/30 with a wide range cassette, but now you have opened my eyes up to more options. Thank you Russ!

I've been contemplating an index shifter for the rear with a friction shifter double on the front for a touring bike. Still prefer a 1x for rough gravel / light mtb. But I think a touring could beneficent from a friction / index double.

Great video. I have been using an early nineties Suntour Micro-Drive triple as a double on my '94 Bridgestone XO-3 for over 20 years. It is currently set up as a 30-42 with a 11-34 9speed cassette. As you point out Russ, this lets you stay in the big ring most of the time.

What a shame…ruined a perfectly good triple….😔…😉

sram x5 2x has a 42x 28 and its gxp compatible

If you are looking for wide range fearing, why not just use a triple? My old Stone Age, Aluminum Stumpjumper has 42/32/22 rings, with an 11-30 cassette. It'll give you a range of 99 inches,, to 19 inches.

Idk dude. I like triples. I don’t mind working the front derailleur and working on keeping a chain line. You just gotta know how to work it to keep cadence consistent and not cross chain. It’s really kinda fun in the same kind of way manual is fun to drive. I like having high gears for descending. 40-11 I’d be spun out way too easily. I currently run like a 48-36-26 up front and a 12-36 out back. Gives me everything I want. I toured on triples as well and think they work well there too. I still get the same low gears but better high gears so idk what the point of this is.

I have the similar set up. 28/48 front 12-32rear. I have all the gears i need without all the problems that come with 1x. The peace of mind that comes with knowing that i have the easiest gear for me during climbs and still not losing the hardest gear for the road is so satisfying. Oh and one of the reasons people get BIG PLATE CHAINRING is to have the best chainline possible when you are in your fast cruising speed on the road, the difference between being in your last cog at the back vs being in a cog that is inline with your chainring when in fast cruising speed is worlds apart. At least for me that is one of the reasons i have that 48 and maybe get 50 in the future. And of course with big chainring you get the best fast cruising speed chainline and still have that last cog for the occasional/ fun/when boredom strike sprinting, because sprinting with a very fast cadence like spinning a small gear is not fun at all. 😂

Maybe I'm different. I have a triple setup on my mountain bike. 22,34,46 set with a 11-36 cassette.

i have a 22/36 crank and i'm loving it.

I have been running this setup for years, I had 40/25 and 36T cassette on my gravel bike - for two reasons I am old and I have big hills on my neighborhood fitness loop. Now I am even older and run 40/22 and 50T cassette on a full suspension recumbent trike. I need the extra gears because the trike weighs 50lbs - but rides like a Cadillac. Getting it to shift correctly was actual rocket science.😁

Excellent 👌. I'm glad to see that others landed on this setup too. I learned about the 1/2 gear with a granny from Sheldon Brown's website. My bikepacking setup is the Amazon crank with a (22,38,42) and Microshift 9 speed Advent paired with a 11-36 Bibibike (Amazon) cassette. I'm totally in line with these ratios but just love the "Just right" the half gear offers (shifts really sweet too with the two large rings so close). I call it the "Alpine Zipper". Keep an eye out at your local COOP for chainrings and you can have hollowtech 2, a clutch, and sweet ratios for less than 300$!

Great Video! I just grind the teeth off the big ring on a triple and it serves as an excellent bash guard. So I've been doing the same thing but in a heavier and cheaper way. ;)

Dont you Get a chain drop?

ultra-high gear-inches are only for grinders who love descents, like me :D (and I still reach top-gear only occasionally) EDIT: great presentation m8, it's also a good case for having a friction shifter for the front derailleur as you always preached, gotta share the heck out of this

Currently settled on my 40/26 paired with 11-46 9spd casette set up...and yes the 40t chain ring is "narrow wide"...but it shifts...maybe coz its a budget ring so it doesnt really hold on to the chain as its supposed to 😅

Hi Russ, Do you not pedal on down hill? If not why not?? I miss the old wide range 3× crankset 48t for down hills, 36t for the boring flats, and 24t for fun climbing mountains. Bring back external cables and 2× or 3× cranksets please. (Can any one remember the 4× conversion for ATB/MTB cranks?)

I put my old mtb 3x9 drivetrain on my commuter and bikepacking bike as an upgrade to the old 3x7. I love it. For someone who likes cheap replacement parts and a massive range it's perfect

on my Trek 520: Sugino XD triple crank, 44 t in the middle position, 28 t in the small position. 11-36 in the rear, 10 speed, works great.

It would be nice to see you do a Rohloff hub review sometime!

I speculated that a 'wide/low' chain ring set-up would eliminate much of the overlap in gearing. IXF cranksets I have been singing their praises for 3 years now! Though I haven't used it as a double as of yet. For as many hills as you climb and as you are short (like me), I thought you would realize that 170 Vs. 175 gives you more torque. Also on the same line of thinking, 26" wheels means more torque. I know you had your reasons....and to be realistic, the radial difference between 650 and 559 is significant enough.

Oh dang, I remember that mountain double video! Gravel cycling has come a long way for sure.

Agree totally!!!! Been dealing with this for the past six months...no chainring selection. I have an '87 Rockhopper with an 11/42t 11 speed and am running a 44/28t front 104bcd. It does everything you say in your video. Be careful of the rear mech tho', was running a Shimano M5100 and the shifting wasn't horrible but it did have problems. Switched to the M5120 and all problems resolved! Keep up the good work!

On my 29er MTB I've converted a triple 22-32-42 to a 22-36 double plus a bash ring. In the rear 8-speed 11-32 (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32). There is no terrain I can't cover, 99% of the time I'm on the 36 tooth ring but it's nice to have the 22 tooth for bigger hills. With a triple I found myself shifting too much between the middle and big ring. Although I have a retro 26er MTB with a triple and it's fine.

On my MTB I have 11-36 10 speed and 28-40 on the front. Works great. Plus cassettes and chains are cheap and available!

At least a year of running a 2x10 22/32;11-46......geared for low and slow, definitely not for the Sat afternoon 20 mile group ride......used up 3 chains in the meantime....hill and mountain terrain....100km/60mi is a good day and 200km/120 is a super good day. I get more out of this video the more I ride.👍👍Party Pace

How low is too low? As i understand for you 26-42 is ok, but what is the useful limit? I can make a 22-60 but if I cannot stay on the bike on a clime, even a steep one, I don't see a point. Personally, I use two combos for different scenarios - 60-34 for road and 48-38-28 for mountain and forest, both with 11-46 cassettes. Thinking of 42-32-22 with 11-50. Probably below 15 gear inches it's not usable for a clime but haven't tested it.

Big IXF fan here, incredible value for money.

Just found this video. Just what I need for a road bike build I’ll ask them if they have a 20 tooth low sprocket then combine with 11-50 in back for the steep SoCal canyon roads

3x or 4x plus for me

@russ would you rather have these than the grx cranks on a gravel bike even if they are really meant for MTB's? considering the chainline, spindle length, q factor, etc.

Running a 3x8 these times, 50/40/30 because I bought the crankset so configured. I never use the 50 ring, it only makes sense if I have no bags at all, and I want to sprint above 35km/h which I both never do. Next one I'll go 40/26 or so.

I agree with your comment about manufacturers forgetting about the need for gravel/adventure bike in regard to cranksets and double setups, but any improvement is welcome. This could be wider ranged and adapted better for front derailing which has been ignored since the onset of the x1s. Keeping a quality double ring set up will boost the wide cassettes range but also keep the weight down with one less chainring and halve the amount of gear changes needed. The best double off the shelf possible for my bike is a 46/30 front crank and 11-40T Cassette on the back. This is with a 42cm chain stay, but I'm opened to any better ideas that work.

Surprisingly i came to the same conclusion after a 3k km tour through europe. I used 26-36-44 crankset, but i kept oscilating between the 2 big rings, and found that i actually need a chainring exactly in the middle = 40. It can be converted from 104+64 bcd triple, i ordered a shimano 40t 104bcd. Your suggestion of converting 96+64 bcd triple (22-30-40) is even better, because one only needs to buy the 26t chainring which is usually much cheaper than the 40t.

Not an Amazon brand, plenty of those cranks on Ebay too.. just a cheap Chinese 104/64mm BCD crank that comes with different names printed on it (some say "XT" which makes them a copy/fake given they were clearly modeled of an XT FC-M780/M785/T781 but solid arm instead of hollow); I haven't heard anything but good reviews for them though, with the only negative being the finish. As for chainrings, Stronglight or TA Specialites (Chinook, specifically). 104mm 4 bolt is super common in Europe where Shimano actually sells trekking cranks in the 104/64 pattern. Peter White sells them (Chinook) domestically but then you get the monopoly markup price, better to order from one of the European sellers. 40t is too small for me, personally... there's the spinning vs mashing argument and just preference; at least when I lived in Chicago, I'm western PA now and could probably live with a 40t. I think a 46t as the largest ring is Goldilocks, I don't need larger than that. Don't like the jump to 30t from 46t though, so prefer a 46/34/24 triple as probably ideal for me, and maybe a 42/26 double for a bike packing/gravel specific bike that sees more dirt than pavement.

Agree with this video, as I do it myself on my Kloss Enroute. I use 50-11t rear, Ltwoo A7 / Archer 22-32t front, which actually 22-32-44t Jiangkun crank but the largest ring has been replaced by a Sram Chainring cover. not so related question, why 34t non wide narrow BCD 104 chainring did not exist? ٩(◕‿◕｡)۶

Aerozine do chainsets 40/30 and 40/27 (104/64mm bcd). I'm using the 42/29 version. Price-wise, they are nowhere near the cost of yours though (around $300-500 depending upon spec)! That said, they do do the chainrings separately (down to 22 tooth).

Absolutly agree, I run a 39/26 in front and a (I think) 11/42 10 Speed in the back... enough speed on flat and more than enough for really steep climbs .....

FSA actually has a 110/80 crank sets. They come OEM stock on the Cannondale Slate as well as some other Cannondale city, cyclocross and camping bikes for a while with a 48 /32 & 46/ 30. They have struggeled with availability on tje replacment chainrings in the past because there was a disconnet inside the company where the OEM salesman was not telling the US Parts Warehouse manager what he was selling to bike companies in mass amounts. So that manager never ordered in the right rings. The warranty department kept having to provide Energy, SLK and K Force Adventure cranks with the two piece direct mount rings. Omega Modular Adventure 48/32 it was OEM on some Cannondale with that was like a mountain bike but. Again on this one it took forever to jave the correct rings in stock because this large 48 tooth ring integrated with some strange ring cover. So you had the ring cover and small ring were all direct mount but this was the only FSA modular direct mount crank that used a 48T ring. When you tried to replace it with a 46/36 people would loose their minds. There is a crank called Z Race Blade 2x10/11/12 Crankset for MTB XC TR AM 170/175mm 38-28T that looks like it could be pretty good and it retails for only $79.89 for crank arms spindle, Bb and chainrings. I was thingingnof giving itbabtry.