Tools Discussed in Video MY Favorite Flush Trim Bit: bit.ly/UltFlushTrim USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off 2nd Favorite Flush Trim Bit: bit.ly/2K0o1om USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 Double Stick Tape: amzn.to/2NsBcAS Moxon Vise Template: bit.ly/32ngW7F Jay’s Adult Nesting Chair Template: bit.ly/2N4ZaSp Jay’s Child Nesting Chair Template: bit.ly/31ZYAtd Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, T-Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa
you prolly dont care but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot my password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Roland Wesley I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I learned the hard lesson of “don’t leave much to trim with the router” recently. Was like wrestling a bucking Bronco on the piece. Such good advice in this video, wish I watched this video before last weekend. Haha!
That’s the 1st time I’ve seen a video where grain direction and routing has been explained. It amazes me in these video how great craftsmen with years of experience rout against the grain when they don’t need to
Just wrecked a piece due to grain direction yesterday, so I wish the weird vagaries of the Content Algorithm had offered this one up earlier. That said, thanks for the vid, will ruin fewer workpieces in the future! :D
Building an Adirondack chair for EXAMPLE … I have determined exactly where my fasteners need to go when assembling the chair. The plus now is... I don't need tape for routing. *I simply counter sink a screw through the existing hole in the template and into the piece of wood. *I visit my local hardware store and ask for "scrap" plexiglass/acrylic and pay pennies on a dollar. I use them for templates. *I draw my outline onto the piece of wood... then remove the screws and set aside the valuable template. *I can now with confidence, cut as close to the outline as possible without endangering a template. *Afterwards, I realign the template using those same screw holes to the lumber and begin safely routing. *When routing is complete, I remove the screws and then use those holes for my fasteners for assembly. Of course, if you are using larger fasteners, simply drill out a larger hole. *I love the acrylic/plexi because the shape stays true after countless uses... and... if you accidently drop a template on the floor as I have, it doesn't dent like a wood type template would. *happy routing!
Agreed but I really have had that uncoated one for 3 years and it's still sharp AF. Honestly it's one of those once every 5-10 year purchases that is a serious game changer. You can route the gnarliest grain in the wrong direction without a problem.
When I took woodshop in junior high (as opposed to Home Ec), I tried to use a router free-hand to cut my name out. I came out so bad I chucked it into the scrap bin. I never even attempted when I took woodshop in college (yeah, BS Industrial Tech - woodshop, plastics shop, and metal shop were core electives). Now that I'm getting to the point where I just have to use a router I'm afraid whatever I do will come out jacked and wood's expensive. I been putting off finishing the cool redwood porch glider because of that fear. It's gonna be somebody's Christmas gift at this rate...
Great video! :) I seen that bit being too high glad to see you show that you used it like that after all! We all make screw ups just another reason why an extra template sometimes helps.
Love your videos, just a quick point if you are in the Uk when Americans talk about putty knives they are referring to filling knives or paint scrapers.not putty knives as we know them.
I watched this four years ago when it came out. I just got a monster compression bit. Kinda like the one you show. I’m a bit intimidated LOL. But excited to use it. It’s funny how even though I’ve seen this video… and I’ve learned so much since then… I’m still learning more as I watch this again. It just makes more sense now as I have more experience. Thanks for sharing.
Nitto Permacel is my favorite double stick tape - I use it for CNC fixturing, and I have to dissolve the adhesive with rubbing alcohol to remove it. I'll definitely give your recommendation a try, though.
I'm looking forward to the router series. I'm still trying to wrap my head around the cut direction and climb cuts and tearout and that kind of stuff. You touched on it here, but for me there wasn't enough explaining with the demonstration. It just went by very fast.
Get a handful of straws and lay them out on a table. Offset each one say a half inch apart as you go. When you start at the top routing and going "downhill" the next straw inline is 1/2 inch longer and supports the previous one. Starting at the bottom and routing "uphill" as you would cut each straw there would be a 1/2 inch where there is no support and much more likely to tear out.
Thanks so much for this video. how to do cut an outside 3/4" radius on a 12" x 4" piece making a radius cut on the 4" vertical side ,top to bottom if this makes sense? Using a flush trim bit or roundover bit? thanks.
I've used it before but not a big fan. Seems to come off too easy for me and sometimes I get squeeze out beyond my tape. Plus for $14 these rolls last me a couple years and there's no setup. Blue tape is crazy expensive to be using it for something its not really intended for. IMHO I can use 4 little tiny pieces vs 8 big pieces of blue tape.
I can't afford the spiral double bearing bit. I already have the single bearing spiral and a straight double. Can I safely use the striaght double in the same manner? Making bread bow knives out of maple. Experienced kick back on end grain last year making them and trying to avoid that again this year because it kicked back and exploded the maple.
Love the channel man. I don’t have many woodworking tools but I’m penny pinching and buying them up when and as I can. Goal is to have a full woodworking shop in a few years and in the meantime I just watch all I can and learn as much as I can. Appreciate your work.
Great deal of information on this video, love it. Is there one already (or upcoming) that shows an easy efficient way to route multiple spaced straight grooves on a workpiece? I'm new to using a router and haven't been able to figure an uncomplicated way to do this.
My issue is finding a way to route templates that are larger than my template. For instance, if I have an intricate shape that I want 3 inches larger in slavery direction. I'm often having to make several varying sizes of an item, and I don't want to have 10 different templates for each item. You'd think "Just use a larger bottom bearing." But if it has fine detail designs, curves, etc, a larger bearing would have too much surface area, and unable to move along sharp, short angles. This has been a perplexing issue for me. Any tips?
I should have watched this before I started. All I'm doing is multiple pill shaped pieces of 1/2" walnut - 7 inches long with ends the same as in the piece you were cutting. Almost ever single time I rounded the one particular end I got kick back and tear out. It was driving me nuts. A bit disappointing to learn that I should be changing bits with every piece, since I have so many to do, though.
Hi m8, I want to replace the PLASTIC ends of some of my synthesizers/keyboards with timber ends, ie a direct copy of the outer edge , what is the best approach? Thanks advance 😊
A few of things: Your use of the term "safety pin" implies using it provides some sure element of safety, which it might not. Porter Cable calls it a starting pin and I prefer that terminology as that's what you use it for. You generally only need it for starting on smaller pieces, when you need to approach the bit very slowly or to help maintain control of the situation where you need to start routing one edge but not the edge perpendicular to it. Like many others here, I didn't know what it was supposed to be used for until I saw a demonstration on it at a Rockler store. It came with my Incra router lift. I use it occasionally. When I was making rail-and-stile panels, I used the starting pin a lot as those bits are huge. Visible tear out against the grain depends on the bit and the wood. Tear out cannot be eliminated, only minimized. The harder the wood, the worse it is. Going in the other direction by flipping the work piece can sometimes help, but sometimes there's no choice. Take the case of the hand grips on the leaves of a butler tray table when all sides of the hand grip need to be rounded, with and against the grain. Going slow helps but that will tend to produce router bit burn. That burn can be sanded off and repaired easier than grossly visible tear out. The flush trim bit can help produce very straight and accurate cuts in pieces that are just too long or awkward to cut on any other device. You just need a long straight edge clamped to your work piece (and any work piece needs to be secured to the work bench with at least 2 clamps). The larger the diameter of the flush trim bit the more effective and smoother the cut will be. A 1 degree cutting angle error made in a dining room table top piece 40 inches across will result in a lateral error on the far end of "only" 0.7 inches. If your table will have leaves, nothing will line up! You cannot fix this and have a clean edge with any other tool besides your hand router, trim bit and a nice straight edge. A jointer will not guarantee parallel surfaces, only straight ones. Using templates is very useful but not problem-free. The double stick tape will pull off material from it or it's not sticking well enough. If you plan to use the template a lot, applying shellac to its surface and letting it dry overnight will help the tape stick to the template better without removing template material when separating the pieces or pulling off the tape. The bearing will mar the surface of the template on repeated use. If the template is hardwood, that is best and the harder the better. Damaged template surfaces can be so-so repaired with the epoxy-type wood fillers (Bondo, etc.), but full strength takes much longer than the advertised15 minutes. Nitto tape is very expensive and you appeared to use a lot of it. I use the 3M Scotch foam double stick tape. It is less than 1/6" thick and you don't need very much of it. Two to four small pieces, 3/8", is generally all that you need. If there is any warping of the template or work piece, the paper-type double stick tape may be too thin to adequately adhere to it, so the foam tape would be definitely better. The putty knife method of separation is fine if you don't want to reuse the tape (sometimes the tape can be used more than once). It can also scratch up the taped surfaces. I use it when I can't separate the pieces just using my fingers, which is often. I avoid thin templates. MDF makes the worst templates but it's cheap and easy to work with other than the toxic, MDF dust. Plywood is not much better because the actual surface rested on by the trim bearing is only the thin, outer surfaces of the plywood.
Your video is such good reminder. To do and not To do. Please do more videos for us... thank you big guy, at the end of the day I can still count to 10 on my fingers. With both eyes open!!! Bob
Nice description, i knew a lot of it but it was a good refresher and certainly a good thorough description about feed direction vs grain direction for anyone who is a little confused about it. I had a situation with a 1/4" template bit in a table that caught like that and it also bent the shaft of the bit so it caused some INSANE vibration, so your kickback demonstration is very important. Also, I want one of those double bearing bits now.
Same here-had thin “fins” I was routing with my template, and I chewed up two of them and had one pulled out of my hands. SCARY. I had no clue that I needed to worry about grain-just the direction I was supposed to feed the workpiece. Thanks, Jonathan!
Looked at the store but couldn't find any templates for an Adirondack chair. Know where I can find it? Even an AI file, I can cut it on my laser myself.
Love these videos, the amount of routering iv done still things in this videos iv never thought of. Also have to add, I never knew what the pin that came with my router table did, until now 😀
Awesome vids Jon. Just wanna say bought your Katz Moses dovetail jig and absolutely love it. Anyone interested in doing dovetails don’t hesitate to buy this jig. It’s is genius
Thanks for a great informative video. Its great to watch something that is exactly to the point. Too many videos where the host hasn't set up their camera properly and then starts carrying on about his lunch and half way into the vid he skips all the useful stuff. Cheers Greg
I'm I strange that I'm more afraid/scared of my router then table saw? What I mean, is that, before i use my table saw i check everything at least twice, on my router... i double check my previews double check :|\ Thanks for sharing this videos, they are so helpful to apply workplace health and safety rules on my hobby workshop.
QUESTION: i havnt found anything on this. incra router plates has holes in the lock rings which helps tremendously suck in a lot of the dust on freehand routing to the underside box where the router is and not all over the top of the table. So, is there a way to route two little channels into the lock ring plastic to help improve dust collection since kreg does make that ... which they should btw?
Instead of double sided tape, use painters tape on each piece - put cyanoacrylate on one piece of tape, spray the other piece of tape with accelerator, and it will hold, as long as you don't 'twist' the two pieces apart - which is perfect for when you do want to take them apart - the tape will come off easily, and if it is sticky and you are having an issue, you can twist the pieces apart. Cheers
On the flush trim bit do you recommend an upcut or a downcut for the small one you say upcut in the video but the link is for the downcut. I tried to research a little on it but I cannot seem to figure it out.
Tried a flip stop? Clamp a piece of plwood down and run your router with desired bit. Say its 2 inches from plywood to the edge of you r cut...cut a 2 inch piece and put it against the plywood so it matches up with the cut edge. Put hinges on it so you can flip it up. Then just line it up with the layout mark for your dado, flip up the piece and it will line up perfectly. It will change for each diameter bit.
Great video Jonathan. I have a Limbert A&C table I want to build that requires template routing for the legs. This was helpful. Thanks. - I need one of those bits with bearings on the top and bottom for sure.
Jonathan Katz-Moses I’ll definitely post a video of the project on my RU-vid channel. Hopefully I’ll get it done early next year. Right now I’m making Christmas presents.
If you haven't already seen Ben @ Crimson Guitars masking tape and super glue trick, it's just making double tape but no residue and amazing strength, rout, plane, whatever.
Great info and content .... THANKS. Two quick questions: When routing plywood, how important is routing with grain direction, if important at all? How do I minimize the fuzzies when routing plywood? Thanks in advance for the info!
You spent considerable time eating out the tooth detail on the bandsaw. Would you explain the potential problem of letting the router take a bigger bite? And how to determine this 'limit'?
Puts more strain on the motor and will dull the bit faster taking big bites. Just try to get as close as you safely can for less wear on the bit and router.
hey sir, i boiught the triton router 3 something hp. put it in a router table under a kreg plate , took out the spring and when i set it to height it vibrates back down a little at a time. is there something else that i need to do to stop that. i have not seen you do anything but raise and lower. thanks
Can't find a good double sided tape here in Canada, at least not so far and forget the pinnailer, instead use painters tape, blue or green works great and CA glue or super glue. Put the tape on both pieces so that the strips of tape match up, a couple of dabs of CA glue and bam, double sided tape that comes apart pretty easy when you are done. Works so great I wouldn't consider using a double sided tape now.
same problem im pension and move live in thailand not found anywere doubleside tape or good CA glue, i used many parts screw at teplate stay wery small hole what can add putty after work. i use colour putty ot sander wood dust whit glue lot, not see wery little holes after putty newer.
Man thank you sooo much Katz! I have been making handles with a straight cut bit and pattern. I keep getting the violent reactions. I finally gave up and went from bandsaw to oscillating sander, luckily with my fingers in tact.
Wow! Thanks very much for this video, Jonathan. These are good band saw tips as well as router tips. I'm still learning to use my benchtop band saw and router table and this couldn't be more timely. I've been afraid to pull the trigger on the moxon vise templates because I pretty much suck at both tools. Now I'm feeling like I might be able to make a go of that vise with a little more practice on these tips. Thanks.
When the bits cost more than my router budget...cries in bought a Colt 1.0 palm router with a 25$ set of 12 router bits because I couldn't afford more before exploding the budget.
While I’m saving for my triton, plate, and the 1/2 spiral flush up/dn astra bit, etc... what 1/4 shank flush trim bit from bitsbits would you recommend? I’ve looked at the W-UDFT2100, but doesn’t come with astra option and I’m not sure really if I’d benefit with the up/dn over just the dn flush spiral bit. So... thoughts, or do I call them?
I know this is a year old, but wondering about templates and thick work pieces. Like say a 1.75” thick chair leg is desired, I’m assuming you cannot use the double bearing bit, you have to attack this a different way all together? Like a combo of a template bit and flush trim bits?
Thank you for sharing a great video 👍👍👍 I don’t know anything about routing but I have the need to template rout 1/8” plywood for a project, what router bit and machine do you recommend to do something like that, thank you I really need some input by a professional
I'm with you there. This video and router table kick back scared the heck outa me. Probably something to practice many times before starting a project.
Nitto tape is a similar product that works well. I use it on a desktop PCB mill. It even held down machinable wax. Like spec tape it doesn’t need much to get the job done. Scotch double sided office tape also works in a pinch IF you’re careful. It won’t re-adhere once removed and it needs more of it though.
@@katzmosestools For removing the template it usually works pretty well to pry up an end just far enough to get a grip on the 2 pieces and then rather than prying/pulling straight apart try shearing the parts apart sideways. For me there is much less muscle involved and the forces are across the width of the template with little risk of banding and breaking it.
Thanks, i have never done any template routing, but I have a big order for some boards and that might make it a little faster while cutting down sanding time. What's the heaviest cut you take using a template?
Thanks for an awesome explanation on how to router properly, Now for that Tape, it's more like a Volkswagen! It will not stick to the wood and it's so time consuming trying to peel it back enough to expose the sticky . $15 and I just had to throw it in the trash
How about setting up a fence on a commercial router table? I bought a table at a pawn shop (50% of my tools!) and while I’m pretty sure I understand what the bells and whistles are on the fence, I would pay careful attention to the details. For example, setting the fence up to joint an edge...
Wish I watched this video before I attempted to router around a jig. I made a pigs ear of it. "Nay mind" Now I know what went wrong !! Thanks very much now I can finish my garden bench with more confidence.
I just suscribed so I may have missed it, but have you or will you share the plans for the chair? I would like to build a set of them. Thanks in advance.
I just started making that chair and had some issues routing that hole. I had a little tear out but it was all inside the hole and will be easy to hide. Still scary for the beginner though. Thanks for all of the amazing tips and help.
Is there any chance you could show router tips with the fence in place at some point too, please, Jonathan? Due to Health & Safety legislation in the UK, I’m not allowed to use them on the part-time course in Joinery, but there’s always more information I can learn, so I’d appreciate any tips you can pass on. Thanks. I look forward to seeing more.
Jonathan you so often seem to cover exactly what I need to know, and you have done it again today. However, what about when the work piece is wider (thicker) than the depth of the router bit, and you have no option but to start with the lower bearing, and then flip the work piece and use machined surface as the template with a top bearing bit, or your two bearing flush trim bit with the lower bearing removed? I'm trying to see it in my head, and thinking we should be able to treat each case according the grain direction where the bit is cutting, but I am not sure I have it right, and can't even experiment till I get to the shop tomorrow. BTW to add to the problem, I am just using straight (non spiral) bits, but I can see that I am going to need to invest real soon.
