I've been a woodworker for over 30 years now and I'm always watching tips and tricks from fellow woodworkers. Your channel never disappoints. You've reminded me how to increase the size of a hole with a router. Thanks for the reminder.
That's an excellent tip for truing the edge of a board without a jointer. This is the perfect solution when I want to glue 2 boards together, and they aren't 100% true and there's a slight bow or dip between the 2 edges. Thanks!
Colin, your temporary holder for the extra router bits will work well for me. I tend to put tools everywhere so I have to make a deliberate effort to stay organized. I like your suggestion about using wood to contrast with your work surface. I started doing that with my Ridgid table saw. It’s base is orange so I stained my jigs and fixtures that color. Similarly, special jigs for my router are white, for the drill press they are yellow. I once lost a particular jig for a few daws until I found it with another tool. That’s when I gave each machine its own color to keep all of there devices where they belong.
I’ve learnt so much from you. I enjoy the way you educate, friendly, easy to understand and I just can’t get enough of watching your videos. Thank you so much.
I've used hot glue to mount a ragged piece of wood to a straight-edged sacrificial wood piece and used my table saw or a trim router to create a straight edge. Once done, the joint is fairly easily peeled off and the hot glue can also be peeled off with no marks. Just have to make sure the ragged piece is well-seated and parallel to the sacrificial surface. Same idea works with planing small pieces. Stick them to a large wooden support. Just make sure there's enough glue to hold it securely. Thanks for the tips!
Nice tips. One tip to add, if your hole is too small you can sometimes stack the original hole saw bit inside the bigger but and use the original bit for a guide.
Greetings from the Southern Caribbean (Trinidad). Thank you for your Excellent videos, especially ones to do with Routers and Router Fences. I have just made my first fence, on an old but nice Delta 10" table saw. Works GOOD ! Thanks again.
I do the same thing for drill bits that you do for your router bits. I have 5 drill bits I always use in my shop. The block of wood, with the drill bits, sits next to my drill press. I labeled the block of wood to show the size of the each bit. Great video. Looking forward to watching more. Barry G. Kery
I’ve watched a lot of your tips on woodworking but this is my favourite as my most used tool in me shed has to be my router. I particularly liked the temporary bit holder. The only thing I would do slightly different with it for me at any rate would be to have magnets on the back ant the router bits going in at a slight angle. The reason being is I have an old Axminster router table that has splayed legs and the whole table is made of metal so I could put it on one of the legs.
The part when you use the mdf to get a straight edge and a piece of plywood to prevent the mdf from getting cut accidently is an fantastic idea also to avoid a transition-line when copying a template to other pieces of wood. Thank you for that and greatings from germany (cologne) :-D
Great video, worth watching again. The only time I had to enlarge a circular hole, I took a hole saw and installed the smaller blade that fit the hole. Then I centered my drill press and replaced it with the bigger saw. After picking up the piece it threw at me, I clamped it down about four times and did it again, this time getting the right hole in the right place. I didn't have a router at the time, but this is a video about routers, LOL. If I did, I might have made a pattern from the hole saw, then center it over the existing hole and enlarge it with a pattern bit. However, having a drill press, I would first consider using it on the hole before considering using the router unless the hole were in a place I could not use the drill press.
Thank you so much for your router tips, they were all excellent, the one that really caught me eye was the simple jig made out of three pieces of scrap wood for cutting slots. It really is going to be a must have for site work. If it gets lost, broken or "borrowed" why worry I can make another in a few minutes. Thanks so much Regards Chris
Another brilliant video. I’m new to the router & only used it a few times. I’ve just bought a small router table so I can work with smaller pieces. I just need to use them more to build up my confidence and your videos help a great deal. Thank you.
Good stuff, Colin. I enjoy the exchange of ideas these videos generate. My take on hole enlargement - use CK method if precision (esp. keeping hole perfectly on center) and presentation is paramount, or use most any other method discussed if not. Router table miter gauge vs backer/push block - 1) IMO safety a wash 2)these cuts are on end grain so backer/pusher minimizes tear out. Make sure block is wide enough and long enough to do the job safely 3) Temp router bit holder security - use tape, hot glue, clamp, magnets, straps, zip ties, bubbles gum (just to see if you’ve stayed with me) or anything else you can think of to keep it where it is needed.
Colin, thank you so very much for your excellent tips and tricks! You are truly an inspiration and an invaluable asset to the RU-vid Woodworking Community. I greatly appreciate you taking the time to make all of these informative videos. Again, thank you!
The tip about making a mortise: I was taught not to use the flat of the router base against the guide fence as any rotation will misalign the bit. If you use the round side and the base rotates it will not alter the distance from the fence
It easier to just put the size hole saw you want on with the smaller one inside of it. The smaller one fits the existing hole and hides the bigger one perfectly. Quick and easy.
Hi Colin, With the last demonstration on this video with the clamp in the way if you put a stop block across the table and clamp it down on the other side you can go right to the end without interference from the clamp
Some good tips here. I'd like to add one of my own. If you cut your hole too small with a hole saw, you can make a larger cut by inserting the original sized hole saw into the bigger hole saw. It will protrude enough to allow for a stable cut...Just in case you don't have a router table available.
I just got a router table a few weeks ago and I'm learning. Watching a lot of your videos. Can you explain "why you don't use a miter gauge when using a fence", please and when you can use one. Thanks!
Hello Colin: Thanks for posting another great video. It was very useful to know your ideas and suggestions, from the safety side to the general practical information.
Thanks Colin, great tips. Could you please do a video explaining in detail why not to use a miter gauge and fence and why it's ok to use a push block with the fence? Thanks, Mark.
To make it clear, you shouldn't use them at the same time for safety reasons. As you push wood through, depending on the bit or blade, it can bind or jam, burn the wood and/or make a bad cut. Thanks for watching!
Did Colin's reply make it clear to you Mark? Maybe I'm being obtuse but I still haven't got it. Mind you, I did spot that a job I'm just doing, using a fence for the depth of cut (and mitre gauge to keep it square), would be better carried out with a correctly sized bearing and no fence...
And I was wondering how am I going to spend few hundred dollars on a jointer and where I'm going to keep it in my limited space. I already have a router and flush router bit. Thanks to you, sir, I can start on my ambitious project of building a coffee table for my mom. 👍 Let the jointing begin!
PETER: check out Craigslist for one. I saw one last month that I was gonna buy but that day I ran into financial problems when my dog needs an operation so that's where the money is gonna go instead. Maybe a few months down the road I'll get one?
at 2:35 why dont youse a miter gauge with a fence? I am brand new to woodworking, would be great if someone could answer this for me. Enjoying this video and i love the idea for keeping the bits organized.
Some good tips! I have used several approaches to a couple of issues mentioned and the one's specified are about the best to consider. Another thought on making a hole a different size and it isn't critical regarding fit and finish, one could always insert a second smaller but same size hole saw inside the larger hole saw. It will protrude enough for it to align with the existing hole and keep that alignment when the larger one starts cutting. I am curious to know why the veneer wasn't cut with a razor and straightedge? Most veneers I've come across have been so thin, enough to warrant this method over any other edge treatment. Good video. Thanks for sharing. (Not certain if it's my equipment or a more universal thing but I had the sound off and was using the subtitles as I didn't want the sound. It was very early while watching. Anyway, I thought you may wish to know the subtitles at the intro had misidentified your name, as "calling connect". Just thought you might find a chuckle in it!
Nice video when i use a board where the router kan lean against i always use the round side of the router you kan turn iT in any position and the bit stays on exact the same place you shoult try. Sorry for my bad english (Holland)
'an other way of enlarging a hole made by a hole saw is to screw in two hole saws inside each other on the bit. the smaller whole saw will stick out.then the inside whole saw becomes the guide for the larger hole saw. but you have a great tip.
Hi Colin, first of all thank you for the excellent, informative and straightforward videos. I am new to using a router and currently trying to make sure that I use my new router in the correct direction. With my very limited understanding of routing, the the router appears to me to be going in the same direction, or rotation, as the bit when you were putting a straight edge on the board. Perhaps, this is correct with a template or pattern bit so I am more than ready to be corrected. I am certainly in no position to question your methods but your comments will assist me greatly. Thank you, Jeff.
The volume level between your introduction speech and the music is quite significant. That means if I adjust my volume down so that the music is not too loud the opening speech is too soft. That's just my observation. Other than that all your contents are very interesting. Remember when you made collaboration video with Miss Pailin who cooked ribs for you, I noticed that she had to cook for the camera by standing portable stove on the work surface which makes the height of the pan higher than normal stove top by the height of the portable gas cooker itself. If you could conjure up a small platform stool for her to stand on about the height of the portable cooker, that would counter the height difference. Thank you for your great contents.
I used the same method or edging longer boards on occasion. The way I finish my jointing off the board is I add clamp where I already been with router and remove the clamp ahead
Only if you still have the same stops set up on your drill press table or fence to ensure that the hole will again be centered under the drill chuck. If it doesn't matter whether the larger hole is exactly centered over the original hole (e.g., a hole for electrical cords on the back of a cabinet), then go right ahead. Just be sure the piece is clamped down securely so the initial bite of the hole saw teeth doesn't yank it out of position.
As for the clamping issue at the end - have a look at the Parfer system for making your own MFT tables. Then you can clamp from below or within the table. I think that’s how he spells his name.. Ujk produces them. His channel is New Brit Workshop and the product is called Parf Guide System!
Hi Colin - great tips. On the rabbiting bits part where you are enlarging the hole, I didnt do this and was injured. Admittedly, Im a severe novice and while I have the utmost respect for the router and the damage it can do, apparently I didnt have enough. Luckily, nothing was permanent. We'll just leave it at that! My question is this. The reason you are using the rabbiting bit is because trying to use a normal bit would be too aggressive and cause the wood to bind and potentially launch? Im now pretty intimidated to use the router table. Feel much more comfortable with the router itself but after the incident, seriously considering selling it. Thanks in advance and love the videos!
Colin, you need some holes with hold fasts in your bench. That way you can use the router over the full lenght without the clamp in its path. And overall, bench holes are extremely usefull.
