I like Osmo too, and I can see why you love it. As you say it's impossible to screw up. I don't want to be unkind but we can't say the same about poly looking at your sample. You must have the same technique applying it as attaching the sandpaper to the sander. I want to clarify some points, because they can confuse people with no experience. - If you apply a good poly very diluted wiping it off immediately, you'll achieve a more similar look and feel, and the comparison will be fairer. My results have nothing to do with yours. Also a matt or satin finish, or polishing it with a fine abrasive pad could help. - The sound of the shellac... you can again polish it in a way you'll achieve a very smooth surface. And you can repair certain spots with shellac or apply new coats without removing it and it will blend. That's one of the well known advantages in restoration in general, and luthiery in particular. Applying something in a very different and careless way and expecting it's comparable to a wipe on / wipe off finish is not realistic. Maybe you have to do more work and experimentation but you can achieve great results with any finish. And then of course you'll see the difference due to the formulation of each one and you'll have your preferences. But it's more about your work and not all about the finish itself.
Hi, I am a qualified French Polisher and have just been introduced to Osmo Polyx Wax and asked to try it on behalf of a new distributor. I have been studying the brochure and doing some research to be able to decide which of their products I would most like to use, They will sponsor me a free tin. After watching this video I have decided on 3043 Clear Satin. After watching how easy it is to work with, I am quite excited. Let's face it, shellac is difficult to work with, especially fadding up. I am also impressed with your jig to align sanding discs, and with your blessing would like to make one for myself. Very informative, thanks.
I think you're going to love the Polyx br winks, it's ridiculously easy to put on, works great, and sooooo easy to repair if an area gets damaged. Of course, no need for a blessing, make away friend! Cheers
I've never heard of this stuff before, but it looks pretty amazing. I'm still taken aback by the brilliance of using a marking gauge to cut tape.. woodworking videos on RU-vid are so often full of tips and tricks, 90% of which are all the same, so it's nice to reliably find new and creative things like that on here that I just don't see anywhere else. Awesome. I'm eager to try this stuff out. (both the finish, and the tape trick tbh)
I've never tried Osmo, but now I'm going to have to. I've heard Spagnuolo talk about it for quite some time, but never saw a review like yours. Thanks much~!
Thank you! Aside from the message of this video, the production quality was outstanding. The script, your voice, the camera angles, the demonstrations, everything was so professional. I’m subscribing...
In somebody’s test video in the comment section an Osmo representative commented that you need to brush 2 coats then light sanding and 2-3 coats Osmo wiped on makes the maximum prevention against liquids and wear.
Thanks a lot! You should be sponserd by Osmo, because they do everything in german! I used Osmo "lasur" and I liked it very much, but your video is fundamental for me now chosing this option for my pine tree floor!
Would you use this for a dining table (with young children) that is going to take some abuse? Also do you need to use any special cleaning products. Thanks for the video
I’ll answer this in two parts: Absolutely yes I would recommend it. Not because it’s the most rugged finish out there (it’s pretty high up there and Osmo also makes industrial strength bar finishes) but because it’s SO easy to repair. You don’t have to strip the whole piece back to bare wood like you do with other finishes. Check out the Wood Whisperer and Matt Estlea, both of them have videos where they use Osmo on high use areas: one on a kitchen counter, the other on a dinning table I hope that helps!
Another RU-vidr named A Mere Creator made a little sandpaper caddy using the same concept, where a stack of papers are pre-loaded on the pegs. It's pretty clever.
i really cant tell the diffrence... the only finish im using is osmo. i never tried anything else. watching this video,, im thinking about trying something else just because i didnt see any diffrence between the osmo and the shellac. maybe rubio monocoat will be way better? i dont know. all i know is, i want the best finish for my clients. great video.
Love this video! Is this a finish you’d recommend for a desk? I noticed the have glossy, satin and Matt. But I don’t know which one to go for. Probably not glossy as that’s too much of a sheen.
Hey Steve, sorry for the late reply. Honestly I'm unaware of any particular brands, I usually just search for white non-abrasive pads, or I pick them up from my local woodworking store. I think there might be a link to the ones I use in the description, but if not, here's one (amazon affiliate): amzn.to/2Z0Ch90
At about 4:55 of your video, you indicate that for woods with a high oil content, you should apply a coat of Osmo thin hardwax oil first. I am making a project using Koa wood, but cannot find out anything about its oil content. Do you have any knowledge about it, or where I can find more info? What is the benefit of using the thin hardwax oil for walnut and teak? Great video, I really appreciate your efforts!
Just finished my first project using Osmo Polyx (large walnut "river" table). I previously was a huge Arm-R-Seal fan, and although it produces a nice finish, Osmo is much easier to apply and I like the natural feel it leaves on the wood. Can you share your suggested care instructions for cleaning up basic spills? Is it as simple as wiping down with a damp cloth?
Is this a good product for beech butcher block kitchen counters? I would to keep the light color of the wood. The most popular product for my application is said to yellow or amber. Have you work with the tinted Osmo products?
I’ve done limited work with the tinted Osmo and have been impressed, but not enough work to give an in-depth opinion/review. The Osmo Polyxshould work wonderfully as a butcher block counter finish. Side note: I LOVE beech, so good choice there! 😁
Hi Laura, There's really no hard an fast answer to your question except for the paint one: that's a no. Osmo needs to be able to soak into the wood in order to work and paint creates an pretty solid barrier. As for the birch ply, I would think 2 coats should be just fine. Hope that helps!
ok I am asking for advise, I have a wood kitchen table, I don't feel like it has a thick plastic type feel to the finish, I don't know, but anyway, I was doing some crafts on the table, stupid, didn't cover the table well and got a couple drips of resin on the table, didn't notice and then they dried hard, so I tried to get them off with Krud Kutter. well that got the resin drops off the table and now I have a small circle area that looks like I took the finish off the table? that part is still the same color, but it doesn't have the shiny finish and when the sun shines on it you can really see the area, so... what can I put on there to make the area that I think I must have stripped the shiny finish off. will this stuff from this video work and do I have to worry about matching the actual color? should I use that Krud Kutter stuff all over the whole table to make it all look the same before putting something on it. The are of damage is about 8 inches in a circle. I know nothing about all this stuff, I put some oil cleaner on it and it looks good until after it dries and then it looks the same. thanks for the advise
Thanks for sharing! I'm always looking for new/better finishes, and this looks pretty intriguing. I really like Danish oil, but don't always want that extra bit of tint that seems to come with it. This product looks like it leaves a much more natural hue. I'll have to try it out!
I used Danish oil for a while too. Polyx knocks it out of the park. And you're right, it doesn't "yellow" the work as much as other finishes do. Really great stuff
Not sure if this is still a viable channel but I do have questions. What type of pads are used in the video? I have been looking at trying Osmo but it’s cost has me apprehensive about trying to use it
I have a walnot countertop island in my kitchen. I have not heard anyone say I have to use the Osmo wood Wax first. Can I ask why that is needed? Another channel said they love Osmo but they use Wood River Tung Oil first as the first coat and then use Osmo. Does the Tung Oil act kinda like the Osmo Wood Wax serving the same purpose?
Great video. I’m working on finishing a lovely Birch burl end table, however the small cracks have already been filled with epoxy/resin. 98% of the surface is bare. Would you know how this product will interact with the epoxy/resin sections? Thanks in advance.
Hey Mark, I would think it should be fine. Since the epoxy is so dense and already cured, the Osmo will just sit on top of it while it soaks into the wood around it. But I would think you could just buff off the excess sitting on the epoxy and be none the wiser. Hope that helps!
Hey Bob, I think it would work well in those applications if the body and neck are bare wood. If the wood film finish on it (paint, colored lacquer, etc.) the Osmo won't be able to get into the wood fibers and won't work well at all. I think it would make beautiful neck finish though for sure!
I would say go for it. Not only does the bare body lead to a killer road-worn look, the Osmo is so easy to repair if something goes wrong or you just want to sand an area back to bare wood
I am very doubtful that it could match shellac which can be polished out. I am sure it is great for a good looking finish but in fine furniture making shellac can produce an ultra polished finish.
I have been using Osmo Polyx oil for a few months now and I struggle to achieve a flat, even sheen finish. I use the semi matt mix and apply it using a synthetic brush ensuring I use it sparingly. I have found the first coat to be very patchy and rough to feel. I was using it on birch plywood and prepared the plywood by sanding with 240grit as recommended on the tin and cleaned each surface with a lint free cloth before applying the oil. Because I have applied it sparingly ensuring an even coverage I have never wiped down the panels for excess. What do you recommend to prevent this from happening and do you have any tips or things not to do when applying the oil from your experience? Maybe a comparison between applying with the different appliacators would make for an interesting video! Thanks
Man I wish... I thought about it but couldn’t figure out a way to do it justice without blatant copyright infringement (with all the made up processes and tool names)
