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In a modern day filled with instant access and rampant disposable consumerism it’s the DIY weekend warriors, the garage-shop woodworkers, the gravel road welders, those out there doing good works with their hands, the Craftswrights, that remember the meaning of 'hand made'
**DISCLAIMER** - all crafts can be dangerous, especially when tools are involved. Do not replicate anything you see in our content without first doing your own due diligence and research into proper safety techniques and procedures!
Great video. I'm curious, what are thoughts on using wing nuts or threaded knobs on the legs, just in case you want to break it down? Could also use a threaded rod and threaded knob instead of a rope... Mount a couple clips on the inside of one of the legs to hold the rod when not in use...
My only disappointment with Titebond glue, used as a filler (mixed with saw dust of course) is that no matter how much its color approximates that of the wood, once it dries out it changes color and goes very dark. I've used Titeebond II and III- same problem with both. The sanding is very hard and messy (the glue turns into paste due to the heat during sanding) but I try to remove as much as possible before the glue dries out. Alternatively one can use an angle grinder with a sand pad attached to it as opposed to using an orbital sander. Much quicker removal, that way.
Timbermate is the best I have found. I used a professional grade at a cabinet shop I worked. If it started drying out you used lacquer thinner to fix. Didn’t like the smell or cost but it did work great. I’ve used most of what you compared in this video but I really like the water base Timbermate. Just spray on a mist of water and stir. Thanks for comparing these!
As someone who's always done the rabbit comes out of the hole, around the tree, then back down the hole, I just learned an alternate method. I guess I need to practice to see which way I like best.
Great video up until you refused to strength test them. You don’t have enough money to buy some more 2x4? Jesus Christ the content is more important than a few dollars you aren’t that broke
What verb is "to easily"? It does not exist! You committed an error. Your Intro Phrase should have been, "The PERFECT folding sawhorse and how to build one EASILY!"
I like your jig alot, what will you charge to build me one exacly like yours. Ps your depth stop... take yr dremel and just give the bit a flatspot were the screw must rest😊. But im serious, would you make and sell one. Ill check comments
I came here from M.Wandel's video, and I like your foldable design. The mistake with the I-beam things is where the weight is supported, as it's just the top flat bearing all the load and anything below doesn't matter.
4:24 YES they are stackable. All you have to do is make one slightly longer than the other, and the shorter one will nest under the longer one. I have been building them that way for years.
Love this channel. Very innovative. Great charisma presence. Use of miniatures (maquette) clever and better than drawings to determine real world issues. Showing complete process including boo-boos great. Only other channel this bold is Ben Elliott, England, who also runs a small tidy workshop. My father's home shop sometimes "borrowed" house kitchen items. The wife's rule that anything winding up in the shop stayed there.
You can absolutely tint the "bondo" type body fillers, and some of them are a white base. I mostly use Glasurit double plus, which also spreads MUCH nicer than bondo and can be feathered out much better. You can also get white cream hardener, which works with with all the polyester based fillers. The trick is to tint with dry pigments (or sawdust) which you can mix BEFORE you add hardner. When adding sawdust, you actually gain some toughness (but trade off some feathering), just make sure you use extra fine dust. It's harder to gauge how much hardener and how well you've mixed when using white hardener if you're not familiar with body filter and mixing though. Also check out the short strand glass reinforced body fillers. They kick even faster, but they are rock hard and practically structural!
You made miniature models, then you accidentally created a kid-size sawhorse on your first attempt (maybe good for a workbench where you could sit!) and then you got the job done. And you didn't edit out any of the mistakes. You are awesome.
"Not good things to sit on." No, they are not. A "wooden horse" was a torture device a prisoner was tied to, perhaps with weights on his feet. You've heard the expression "ridden out on a rail?" Same idea.
IM GOING TO TRY MAKING THESE SAW HORSES! & now I know how to do those angle pivots with my speed square & what I thought was a Lag bolt-really is😁& pretty nifty you can make mini mock ups!
This is the most incredible Video I have ever viewed. I have never seen anyone on any video admit that they made a mistake. Then went on to correct and make a new video showing the exact same thing in its proper dimensions. I am so impressed with his Professionalism, that I'd love to have him as a friend, I could learn so much from him. not only in his building skills but more importantly in his PROFESSIONALISM. THANK YOU.
I been doing woodworking for years now I built some Adirondack chairs I you the first three wood filler after years of being our in the rain and the sun I use it to fill up screws heads after 6 years I see the wood filler in comings out I fill some holes in a piece of wood around the window with Bondo it till there I use Bondo wood filler it been there longer than the chairs yes it more trouble but I think it’s worth it in the long run
I’m trying to fill in a small bit of missing fake wood veneer on a kitchen cabinet. I’m going to tint the putty, but I need to know: 1. Which of these will have a smooth, eggshell finish. 2. Which of these is stiff enough that it won’t flow and droop while it is setting - given that I’ll be filling a vertical surface. 3. How much does each product shrink?