My Intro to Group Tuning & Why I Think it Works 

You're the man bro! Thanks!

I will work on getting something out in the next couple months

Thank you Dustin! I'm glad!

Thank you Wayne! Very interesting stuff you mentioned here. I'll look into some of it! Thanks for all your support man!

Ill do my best to get something out in a couple months!

I'll get something together

Thank you! Yes it is! 🙂

Sounds good I'll try to get something up in a couple months

I will work on it!

Thanks friend!

At some point it's going to have to correct it's right tear in flight. Maybe that's 20 ft for you. And it won't just stop there, it should go left after that and then continue to repeat the process decreasing its left and right movement with each pass until it fully stabilizes. So with that, what's the best distance you can paper tune at to trust the paper tune 100%? That's the real question. Is it as close as you can get to the paper and get a bullet hole? Or should you keep walking backwards until you walk your tear into a bullet hole? Who truly knows..

Yeah I’m learning that very thing right now. I’m working with a pse evoke 35. Today I shot at our indoor range and had really good groups at 40 yards ( all three arrows in 5 spot x) but then at 20 was all over the 9 and 10 ring on a Vegas face… that got me thinking pretty hard so right now I’m in the middle of an experiment. Bow had ata 1/4 over 35 but cam rotation marks were where the factory says the should be. That’s where I got the bullet hole.. right tear at 8 ft and right tear at 12 feet. So here’s what I did. I twisted up string and cables to maintain exact draw length but bring back ata spec to 35 and then shot the paper from same distances. Bam! Bullet hole right at paper… left tear at 8 feet and then left tear at 12 feet. So here’s my thinking. I will shoot groups tomorrow and see how it does. It’s either going to be better at those two distances or worse. My theory is if worse I can undo 1/2 of the twisting I did on strings and cables ( I took very good notes) and it should theoretically be the best setting for the bow. I didn’t move the rest at all while making all of these adjustments but man did I just learn a ton.

Basically I took the bow from a right tear to a left tear just by twisting strings and cables not by shimming or moving rest. Makes some sense because I literally probably induced more cam lean by loading the cables but never thought of that as an adjustment to fine tune an evolve cam system. Have messed with Hoyt’s and yokes before so I do understand the concept but didn’t think it would be a factor on a pse

I don't understand the question

@@AngusMoss_Archery In you video you were saying you bump it towards the miss. What I'm asking is how far is your first move?