I just upgraded to the queenbee pro from a mpcnc that I've been using for a few years. I got tired of the slow cutting speed as well, and I was tired of tightening parts all the time and having to print replacement parts after they would break. That being said, the most recent primo version of the mpcnc is holding up much better aside from having to tighten things every use. Really looking forward to the new machine. I got the 1500x1500.
Thanks for posting. I just discovered your channel and really appreciate your creativity. It is very interesting to me how similar our paths through the CNC world over similar time frames has been. I started with an original MPCNC, then LowRider, then a DIYCNC of plywood. I looked at the Workbee but opted to build a PrintNC with closed loop steppers. It is super rigid, very accurate, and relatively inexpensive. I have 4 different control board options for it and 2 for the MPCNC. I now run 5 axes on my PrintNC for my particular objectives. You might like to look at Grblgru as a CAM program. It’s free, extremely versatile, with many machine models available. Cheers.
Thanks for touching base with me J! Great to hear your similar journey…. CNC world is very addictive!! I’ll be building a new CNC soon (surprise, surprise!!) and wanted to integrate 5axis for more flexibility… might take 6months or so to finish. I’ve known about grblgru however never got around to having a tinker!! I will check out sometime. I would love to see your setup… do you use Instagram?
@@NEWTechCreative I don’t usually post to Instagram = not enough hours in the day ha ha. Here is my basic setup: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vTCpnslGxJE.html Since that video I created a 5th axis to do the kind of thing in the overlapping circles video on that channel. Grblgru has been kind enough to enable some of my requests to enhance his program’s capabilities. My requests are quite specific to embellishing turned wood pieces I make, as is the 5th axis I created. I abandoned the usual trunnion approach after several prototypes. This approach ended up being quite easy to write software for and Grblgru was very helpful in that regard. Using his program I can take one of my turned pieces and create an accurate STL file of it. I can export that to another program for ornamental turning design, or easily wrap a DXF file around the piece and cut it with Grblgru. I can use a router or laser. His program will burn a pattern to a curved surface like a bowl unlike all the other software. I really like Lightburn but it can’t do that. That was my first request of him a few years ago.
Hello hello. 1st: I saw you ok'd someone to mail you about the files for the dust boot. I would also be super interested in this if possible. 2nd: Are you planning on making more of these CNC vids? I find for this brand specifically there seems to be a shortage of video's on it and you seem to know your stuff. 3rd: Thank you!
Thanks for your message @BlaineTrain . No problem, please email me at newtechcreative@gmail and I can send you through a few versions I’ve made over the years. I have some ideas in the pipeline for the workbee CNC so please stay tuned 😉 I’m glad you have enjoyed my content! Thank you
what controller did you pick for this package? i owned a co2 laser cutter but new for cnc router. so picking the controller choices under Bulkman 3D man store for the workbee cnc package is confusing to me
Thanks for your comment! I can understand that this is confusing with so many choices. There are 3 main decisions to make when considering electronics - what control board type (mach3 or grbl), your confidence in wiring and how much power you want to run on your machine. I already had my electronics from previous machines and is similar to the high torque package. The xPro is much easier to install, however harder to add on or change components. I’ve recently upgraded to fluidnc board using the ‘high torque’ motor drivers and it’s amazing!! If your not confident with what to purchase and want to get going quickly, go for the xPro! Hope this helps
@@NEWTechCreative thanks for the tip. My goal is mostly to cut or carve acrylic and wood. So i guess xpro is the route i should go down to. Thanks again for the tip!
I've just purchased the Workbee v2.2 1010 full kit from Makerstore and am doing the build, where did you get the fusion 360 stl file from. It would help with assembly
Great work @Steve S!! You will have a blast with the workbee 😁😄 download the workbee files from Thingiverse then open the .step files!! These are not .stl - however they are much better then stl. Good luck with the build 😁
@@donochetti2177 I was missing several screws for the CNC controller and the wrong cabling for the steppers and limit switches, both items were speedily dispatched and fixed. My biggest problem is the wiring, there is no dedicated manual for this and you have to continually refer to parts of the online manual, which vary from model to model . After several months I can see light at the end of the tunnel with the help of youtube videos by Bulkman3D, Openbuilds, eben Ooznest and snippets of assembly instructions scattered throughout the Internet. Having said that It is a quality build and worth the money - my only disappointment is the lack of a dedicated hard copy manual which should be included with the kit.
First of all thanks a lot for all your video. I also just finish to make a MPCNC, but like you, I want to use shorter time to cut a 18mm plywood. So I want to ask you, do you think that the stepper motor and SKR Pro card it should be enough in order to move the more heavy Workbee please ? Thanks again
Thanks for your comment @Denis G. Great to hear you are on the same CNC journey as myself. I’m still very impressed with the stock workbee and continue to push faster and harder! I purchased the larger nema 23 2.45nm motors that handle 3A current. An skr pro board is capable of powering these sufficiently, however check that the motor drivers handle a max peak current of 3A or more… I would only power the motors at 2.5A, however you need the drivers to not overheat and always predict from more than needed to be safe. I use an arduino uno with grbl and external large st-m5045 that handle much larger current and I don’t worry about working the machine harder. I like the external drivers as I can update the control board without buying new drivers every time. It’s up to you and what you want to invest in for the long term. I can run at 5000mm/m with my current setup and that’s more than I will ever need, but I know that smaller drivers won’t handle the same rigor. I hope that’s helped you! Thank you 😊
@@NEWTechCreative You help me a lot and thanks a lot for the comment. I just think to try to make the pieces of the Workbee by my self, using the actual MPCNC... but I still study of what type of Workbee to make :-) ...there is a lot of model Thanks again
Hey mate, hoping you can help me out, ate you based in Australia? I'm wanting to get a 1200mm x 2400mm cnc but the supplier in China is telling me it is too big to freight
Yes! I’m up in Queensland 👍👍 there are various places to buy a CNC in Australia. If you are looking for affordable aluminum kit machines checkout cnc3d.com.au or makerstore.com.au, otherwise if you want to sink some serious money into machines there are some amazing industrial machines in Australia that are new and secondhand!
@@NEWTechCreative thanks for the response and love the content, good work on making your garage look like a full blown studio BTW:-p have been looking at the workbee on maker , definitely looking at entry level kits to start with, thanks again.
Can you please share the name of the tool you used to check the height diferences between the spindle and the spoilerboard top? What's the brand, where did you bought it? Thanks
Hi Brother thanks for advice Am new in CNC machine i never been near CNC machine but am kind intersted to start with somehing affordable am about to buy Queen Bee Pro. specs as follow. Please see our VFD Specifications * Brand: Huanyang * Input Voltage: 220 V * AC Output Voltage: 208-240 V * AC Input Frequency: 47 / 63 Hz * Output Frequency: 0-50 Hz / 0-400 Hz * Power: 2.2 kW * Input Phase: 1 or 3 phase * Output Phase: 3 phase * Control Mode: V/F, Sensor-less Vector Control (SVC), Torque control * Speed Adjusting Range: 1:100 (SVC) * Carrier Frequency: 1 kHz - 15.0 kHz * Automatic Voltage Regulation Function (AVR) what would be your best advice to beginer like me.
Dear, I have a question about Lead Screw: - What kind of lead screw used for Workbee?. T8? - What kind of lead screw nut for X, Y and Z axis?. This is Openbuild plastic nut? Thank you!
Thanks for your comment! Yes a T8 lead screw… more info here.. ooznest.co.uk/product/acme-8mm-lead-screw There are a few pieces of hardware that connect at both ends. Best to research the tingle tension system for more info! Regarding the nut blocks, I suggest searching for acme nut block as there are two types used for x,y and z axis. Hope I’ve helped here. Thank you
Hi, Thank you for this video, what spindle did you use in the end. That is my next upgrade - similar reasons to you, but also noise reduction. Thank you in advance. Andy
Hi Andy @The Woodgrafter , no problems! I ended up purchasing the same 2.2kw spindle from a different vendor… however was a stab in the dark with what I was purchasing, although is going smoothly (so far 🤣). I only run it at 11000rpm max and chews through everything with ease and only drawing half the amperage. It’s a worth while upgrade 👍
question: how do you prevent the bottem board with the taps in it from being damaged by the CNC process? Do you add a wassteboard and then the CNC object?
Yes that’s correct! I’ve added a 9mm mdf waste board to the top layer so I can replace when required and drilled holes through that match holes in base board. To avoid going through the waste board I always set my zero from the top of waste board then raise the head the thickness of material… is the stock is 12mm, I measure 0 at waste board then raise z axis by 12mm then zero off (if that makes sense?). This avoids even going through waste board.
@@NEWTechCreative makes perfect sense, thanks! I suppose it does require you to perfectly align the holes for the tops in the waste board and bottom layer.
What motors does it occupy? ... I have the same one and I assemble it by parts but I want those motors and I only find some smaller ones and with less torque. I would appreciate your answer
Thanks for your comment Manuel. You can fin these motors from ooznest 345oz/3A nema 23’s, bulk man sell them as well called 2.45n.m motors. If you search for the words nema 23 2.45n.m/345oz 3A motors, these should pop up pretty quickly. Good luck 👍
For some reason my machine is not working correct ive squared it and fir some reason the Y axis shift and makes a terrible noise and the Machine pretty much stopped also on the x-axis it does the same thing trying to home the machine does not work.It keeps going out of square with the whole machine and start to shift I squared it I don't know what else to do I followed all the instructions and ill it does is make terrible noise the x-axis will. Not got side to side with out stopping in think ive tried just about everything to make it work when I. Move the y-axis one side is about 5 or 6mm off from the other side measuring from the backplate to the inside of the y axis plate please help
Thanks for your comment @John Cherry. It could be a range of issues and without seeing the machine and setup it’s hard to know exact problem. My instinct tells me that your motor on one of the y axis is not correctly wired or missing contact on one of the wires. I would suggest joining one of the workbee groups on Facebook where you can post video and photos, plus have a larger community to assist with your setup. I hope you are able to resolve this issue soon! 👍
I would say pretty quiet! A tad quieter than my battery powered Ryobi hand drill. My vacuum is much louder then the spindle. Also depends on what your cutting and bit type but a massive difference from a palm router.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-2KW-Water-Cooled-Spindle-Motor-ER20-Engraving-Mill-Grind-4-Bearings-/181143790452?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Unfortunately this item is sold out, however you can search for similar!
Thanks for your comment @Stephen . I’m happy to send the stl files to you…. I’m still working on improving the dustboot, however your happy to have where I’m at currently!! Email me on newtechcreative@gmail.com
Thanks for your comment! You are lucky enough to be closer to the home of ooznest than me! Have you tried purchasing their newer version directly from them? Otherwise I’m not entirely sure where the best place to purchase as I have local suppliers in Australia.
@@NEWTechCreative Thanks for your response, i’ll check them! I watched your educational videos, the best was the logo carving in 2 different way. That is awesome how precise you show the CAD and toolpath ! Congatulation and do more videos like this!
Great question @Triumf Dula . The original workbee is screw or belt driven and they now have a newer version Z1+ that improves the electronics and screw thrust bearings to provide tension to the screw axis. Bulkman released the v2 with the tingle tension system with providing a longer screw and thrust bearings…. This was before the Z1+ was released. Bulkman v3 is a redesign to compete with the queen bee version and has a rack and pinion design and stronger/higher z axis. The rack and pinion version is very similar to the larger competitors such as avid CNC…. Providing even higher precision and bigger machine as the don’t rely on long screw driven axis. I hope this has helped your decision!
@@NEWTechCreative seeing this I might go queen bee or build my own version, want a 8' X 4' area to machine so like can use it to cut boards instead of use a saw but space in flat looking to make where use flat then stand on end with vacuum pump to hold pieces Sorry for all that, mainly wanted to ask have you found a way to sort of self level it so it counters the bend when gets to middle even if not by much?
There are many versions of the workbee out there and some have chunky linear rails or heavy duty cbeams that help stiffen the x axis to reduce warping when in center. Worth while doing some research about this before purchasing!!
Hi Brother thanks for advice Am new in CNC machine i never been near CNC machine but am kind intersted to start with somehing affordable am about to buy Queen Bee Pro. specs as follow. Please see our VFD Specifications * Brand: Huanyang * Input Voltage: 220 V * AC Output Voltage: 208-240 V * AC Input Frequency: 47 / 63 Hz * Output Frequency: 0-50 Hz / 0-400 Hz * Power: 2.2 kW * Input Phase: 1 or 3 phase * Output Phase: 3 phase * Control Mode: V/F, Sensor-less Vector Control (SVC), Torque control * Speed Adjusting Range: 1:100 (SVC) * Carrier Frequency: 1 kHz - 15.0 kHz * Automatic Voltage Regulation Function (AVR) what would be your best advice to beginer like me.
Thanks for your message @Ajs Pro ! Yes this is great! Check that it is water cooled… not air cooled. I really love the 2.2kw, however can be intimidating at first. I run most jobs at 11000rpm and carved like butter! Will be amazing with the queen bee. Good luck with the journey 👍👍